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Dark Purple Disease Affecting New Growth?

  • Thread starter Thread starter browntrout
  • Start date Start date Aug 15, 2018
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Dark Purple Disease Affecting New Growth?

browntrout Aug 15, 2018 464 Replies 125,448 Views
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browntrout

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#21
Jmaes Mabley said:
My buddies plants are doing the EXACT same thing, and have had this problem now for 2 Years. RUINING ALL THAT GET THIS MALADAY. THIS WILL FUCK UP THE PLANTS. TOTALLY.

Ive not had photos to post, ( THANKS FOR THESE PHOTOS )

Im thinking its a Calcium issue. Or an imbalance of Mag/Calcium.

I believe it can be brought on by being wet, WHICH CAN CAUSE PH FLUCTUATIONS.

But Im very curious about the responses.

It IS NOT COLD. its also NOT BURN. Its retarded growth. Gnarly. Twisted.

It aint been below 70 in my neck of the woods for 4 months.
Click to expand...


I hate to say it, but I'm glad someone else is in the same predicament. I've used a good amount of lime this year, the native soil is pretty acidic at 5.0 PH. In which case the lime i use has a fair amount of Calcium / Magnesium.

I've heard everything under the sun from a few forums now. No one has seen it or if they have they have not cured it themselves.

Some older growers had the same issue when they grow in a certain spot and were never able to fix it.

I've grown in this spot 4 times in the past 5 or 6 years and have never had this issue.
 
Last edited: Aug 16, 2018
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browntrout

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#22
scubascrog said:
okay, so when you say "breeding" you mean you are starting from seed right?. you pop like a hundred of them and select phenos. unless you have already done this cloning plants isnt breeding. cloning off moms and running a bunch of clones isnt breeding, unless you bred the original seed for the mom, ive seen those little MG looking tears on plants with micro nutrient issues. are you giving them micros? i know you are doing organic.... but those are micro nutrient issues. and PH rarely just affects just the micro nutrient, it affects all of them.
Click to expand...

Yes I am breeding, I have two gardens, one for sensi one for breeding. I use clones from the same mothers in both gardens and in the seed garden for future work if I have time. I Have 80-90 plants of one strain I am using the males from to F2 them and F1 hybridize the clones and other strains. A lot are from seed, however I have about 5 or 6 different clones of each in each garden

Keep in mind I am not comparing myself to anyone or saying that I am some sort of master breeder, just a hobbyist at this point.
 
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Jmaes Mabley

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#23
That lime only lasts so long.

What Lime??

I used Both Calcitic/Dolomitic.

Ive read that the best ratio is to use 2/3 the amount of Calcitic Lime vs Dolomite. Calcitic has the Cal. Dolomite has the magnesium.

Also Dolomite will cause dense soil to cake up more, and turn to rock. Calcitic wont do this, and is also best in Clay.

Ive read if they stay wet to long, can cause PH fluctuations, which in turn can cause Cal/Mag problems.

Also, even though your soil analysis may read med/low in P/K.

You may still have more K vs Cal/Mag which can also cause Calcium/Mag problems.
 
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browntrout

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#24
Jmaes Mabley said:
That lime only lasts so long.

What Lime??

I used Both Calcitic/Dolomitic.

Ive read that the best ratio is to use 2/3 the amount of Calcitic Lime vs Dolomite. Calcitic has the Cal. Dolomite has the magnesium.

Also Dolomite will cause dense soil to cake up more, and turn to rock. Calcitic wont do this, and is also best in Clay.

Ive read if they stay wet to long, can cause PH fluctuations, which in turn can cause Cal/Mag problems.

Also, even though your soil analysis may read med/low in P/K.

You may still have more K vs Cal/Mag which can also cause Calcium/Mag problems.
Click to expand...

Interesting, I've have been using dolomite lime exclusively. Calcitic Lime is hard to find where I live. The soil sample PH from the beginning of the year is about the same as it is now when i tested it last week.

I've also tried using small amounts of Dutch Nutrients 6 pack trace nutrients but haven't see any improvement as well as before mentioned Potassium Silicon for added resilience.
 
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browntrout

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#25
Photos and soil report as of today.
 

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browntrout

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#26
Pictures make it look better than it is, it does look quite retarded and unhealthy.

It looks like we have a big rain coming up so I am hoping it will wash away and build ups or issues possibly caused by myself.

Boron levels are non detect. is that fine?
 
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Jmaes Mabley

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#27
I think your ok on the Boron. Doesn't look like a Boron deficiency.

Upon a bit more research..

High Times had a photo of a plant that is showing this same thing, and they say it is a Phosphorus Deficiency.

They also say to much water aggravates it. This is pretty much the same/similar to what my buddies start out like, and get worse by the day.

 
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scubascrog

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#28
wow. no molybdenum anywhere? wonder why your plants are turning blue? lol you guys are chasing your tails. you even said yourself your low at night is 60 degrees sometimes. expect your plants to not pick up molybdenum because of temps and OH SHIT you don't have any in your soil anyways.

organically piecing everything together for soil means adding ALL your micros unless you arent testing for it...
 
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Jmaes Mabley

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#29
Mine haven't been under 70 since April. Mine also have Boron.

I use Azomite, and Kelp. Plenty of all micros.

Boron deficiency is Brown/Grey. Not Purple/Black.
 
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scubascrog

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#30
well then yours isnt the same as his. do cold temperatures affect boron the same as molybdenum? idk but thats what his plants are showing. water on leaves are magnifying glasses and trap heat so thats why his center new growth spots are burning. @Toaster79 was spot on.
 
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Jmaes Mabley

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#31
Mine is EXACTLY like his.

As in EXACTLY.
 
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scubascrog

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#32
his is blue.
 
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scubascrog

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#33
754 ppms of aluminum in your soil?!?!?! wtf?
 
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scubascrog

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#34
When the soil pH is between 5.0 and 5.5, soluble Al likely a small problem

probably not getting moly because you are growing your plants in soda cans
 
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Jmaes Mabley

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#35
Look Purple to me.

But I would say his PH is off.

Either at 5, or 7.2, its off.

My PH is 6.3 runoff.

We'll call it Purple/Blue for semantics sake.

Mine are the same color, and they will also eventually turn black

Also considering they've been outside since April, and water has been falling on them all the time, and nothings changed except they are starting to flower.

Makes no sense to start now if its burn ect.

They do this when they start to flower, and can also start right before flowering.
 
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scubascrog

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#36
well having a bunch of water on your plants all the time aint good. water drops are magnifying lenses and transmit more thermal energy than air so it would only make sense. if your plants are wet at night. gonna fuckin blue out even at 70 degrees with wind chill its all about leaf temps!!!!!
 
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Jmaes Mabley

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#37
Hasn't bothered them in the previous 5 months before. But wet soil to long is not good, and can cause lockout/PH problems, but my PH is 6.3.
 
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scubascrog

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#38
its the end of august. going to start getting cooler now. we will see!
 
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scubascrog

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#39
ph doesnt affect molybdenum only under 5.5 so im reaching for temps and aluminum content. thats nuts.


here is a read.

The most telling sign of aluminum toxicity in plants themselves is diminished root growth. Generally, the growth of roots is reduced to about half of what is normal, but this varies from crop to crop.





Reduced root mass and length means reduced uptake of virtually every other nutrient, as well as the capacity to take in enough water. Additionally, vital plant nutrients like sulfur and phosphorus tend to bond with available aluminum.













Due to these two factors, excess aluminum in the soil can lead to the appearance of other nutrient deficiencies: pale or faded color, wilted or stunted growth, thin or weak stems, and necrotic spots.





Aluminum is also more available to plants in acidic soils (soils with a very low pH), and thus acid-loving crops like blueberries and cranberries are among the more aluminum tolerant selections.







A soil with pH below 6 (and especially below 5) is much more likely to have an excess of soluble aluminum, and thus contain levels that are toxic to most crops: however the cause of such a low pH can only truly be ascertained with the right soil tests.







The threshold at which available or soluble aluminum (Al+++) in soil can begin to do damage is about 0.5 ppm, with few commercial crops tolerating more than 1.0 ppm.
 
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Jmaes Mabley

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#40
I already know the outcome if its not corrected.

Gnarly Death. My buddies had it for 4 years. Not all of them get it either.

His are in 7-20 gallon grow bags, and in the ground. Some n the ground 3 feet apart, are perfectly fine.
 
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Started Aug 15, 2018
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