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Dark Purple Disease Affecting New Growth?

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Dark Purple Disease Affecting New Growth?

browntrout 464 Replies 125,399 Views
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Here is a smaller plant that got it bad...
 

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Good reading here. There are other treatments, but some of them have to be done Everyday for a number of days, which in some cases will be impossible, and you have to Completely Drench each plant, and some, I cannot say some of it wont kill weed. I don't know.

Broad Mites - Tennessee State University
www.tnstate.edu/extension/documents/Broad Mites - TSUNRC Fact Sheet-1.pdf
 
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Usually there are organic ways (bacteria) to kill mites of all sorts. I use spinosad for mite control. Its organic.

Reason for ongoing treatments is due to the life cycle of these pests. We have to break the life cycle. Mites are pretty tough since they have several stages, some of which are in the soil as nymph. Fvcks I hate mites. Just got hit with them last night.

I'm coming down the stretch with some flowers in late bloom - didn't want to spray. Oh well don't wanna puff mites either ffs. I use spinosad - then a rinse off the flowers day before harvest with soap nut water.

Bees dont pay much attention to cannabis since its a self pollinator.
 
Got the 100x-250x scope, so naturally did some scoping.... Heres some real F@ckin interesting shit:

Couple vids of broads, maybe someone can identify. One i'm not sure of.
 

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I had to do some major hunting to find these mites, definitely not an infestation imo.

However look at this spore of death, looks like a axolotl. Maybe it's not a spore but notice the fraying on the bottom one:

Axolotyl death spore
 

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Spinosad wont kill Broadmites.

Often times you can also look at the plant with a 60x scope, and not see any mites, because they live Inside the stems, and plants can be infected before they lay any eggs.

Are you sure about that?? I use spinosad its a broad spectrum bacteria that kills many insects specially mite fvcks.
 
Nope. Its not effective vs Broadmites.

Very little is.
Rotating Avid, and Forbid are the best, and easiest treatments that will eradicate them. And if you don't rotate chemicals, 1s that live from initial treatment, which will be very few, but even 1 that survives, will be immune, as will its offspring, so you hit it with the other chemical so they cant build resistance. They only live a maximum of 12 days.
Most everything else wont even cause them to flinch. The nymphs live inside the plant, and the chemicals have to be systemic to kill them.
They are also so small, they can ride on the backs of spider mites. Most consider a 100x microscope the best way to identify them.
 
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@Jmaes Mabley you're right about spinosad and broad mites. I did a little research and found the treatment on Purdue University Extension website. There's another mite even worse with no treatment.

Here's what I found on the Broad Mites @ Purdue

Cyclamen and Broad mite control
Arrive into greenhouses on tubers and in buds of plant material Heat treat infested plant material at 111F for 15 minutes
Miticides -Abamectin (Avid), Milbemectin(Ultiflora), chlorfenapyr (Pylon), Dicofol(Kelthane) For broad mites only -pyridaben (Sanmite),

Cyclamen mites favored by cool temperatures (60 F and high humidity) Eggs are smooth

Broad mites favored by warm temperatures (70-80 F). Eggs are dimpled

Here's a link to the article - its got pics and solutions to many of the pests we see in greenhouses.


Edit - found a predatory mite that can be used outdoors:

N. californicus mites


Hope that helps
 
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Yes Ive seen that, thanks.

Also notice No Mention of Predatory Mite Control vs Broad/Cyclamen Mites???

Also Avid is listed as the first chemical to use to kill them.

Id rotate the Avid, and Sanmite.
 
Ive used it before, for spider mites. I used Avid/Floramite. But ONLY in veg. It totally eradicated them on the first treatment of Avid, but did the second round with Floramite, just to make sure 0000 survived, and became immune. SM have almost 2x the life span vs Broadmites, but are a lot easier to eradicate. I also just don't want to control them. I want to make them extinct in my location.

Ive been growing since 1972. 1976 inside, and bought the 1st HID available around 77 that came from the US Navy Submarine division, where they grew their own veggies in the subs to be more self sufficient. The bulbs were very fragile, and they would not Guarantee them from breakage in shipping.
About 6 months after that a company came out with the Super Nova, and the Octagarden, and started using HID/ 1000w since they became available. They were Halide, and unlike some later on, I never used straight HPS, and only switched to HPS when EYE Hortilux came out with the 145,000 lumen color corrected bulb. 1600 PAR. We use both those, and 1000w Gavitas.

Last year I was going to do a grow outside with my buddy, who has been having all the trouble, and the seeds I gave him also got attacked. Hes been having this problem now for 5-6 years. We are also in the Most Unfriendly State, so our options are very limited.

All the research Im gathering is for him.

Also Ive read any plant that survives, and had seeds that lived and they get used...., the Bacteria Will Be Passed to the Offspring.

Some also rotate Forbid with Avid and Floramite for SM
 
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That's impressive on your grow experience. I've been puffing since like 68 but didn't start growing indoors until 1979. We used to get some mighty fine weed and seeds to go with back in the day. Wish I held onto them. I lost my stash in a move sometime in the 80s.
I still have an old ballast and hood from back in the day. VERY heavy duty stuff. Brighter lighting than the modern digital ballasts and of course quite a bit hotter.

That sucks that the bacteria can make it thru in the seeds. Could the seeds be heated to 111F for 15 minutes and kill the bacteria or is that just the mites and seed still be viable??
 
I had to do some major hunting to find these mites, definitely not an infestation imo.

However look at this spore of death, looks like a axolotl. Maybe it's not a spore but notice the fraying on the bottom one:

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Get yourself some Safers Insect soap and spray the entire plant on both sides of the leaves every 3 days. I've use this on broad and russet mites and it can be used in flower.

It works on the mites and the eggs on contact and will leave your plant mite free and healthy. I use to use forbid and avid and they work too, but I still had to spray it multiple

times. These are locally systemic, meaning they don't protect the new growth, but penetrate the leaves and stays locally. You also can't use these in flower.
 
There arAs stated earlier in one of the articles.

There are several ways to kill them vs Avid/Sanmite, but you have to do it everyday, and it takes a very large volume of water. Especially hard to do if the plants are 5-9 feet tall, and 6-7 feet wide, and in the woods.
 
I've never had an infestation of mites but have been reading about using milk (skim milk to avoid the rancid milk fat smell) as milk is a research-proven fungicide and soft bodied insecticide - insects have no pancreas to digest the milk sugars.

Might it work/help on mites?
 
Ive never seen milk mentioned to control Broadmites.

Id just stick with whats simple, and what works. Though AVID/Sanmite also takes a lot of water, but doesn't have to be applied nearly as often. Sanmite is made Specifically for Broadmites.

Russet Mites are also on the way east from the west coast.
 
Hitching a ride on them damn russet potatoes no doubt.

"N' give my foot a push...
Just me 'n the pymgy pony
Over the Dennil Floss Bush
N' then I might just Jumb back on
An' ride Like a cowboy
Into the dawn to Montana"
 
Just think how much Milk it would take to Drench 50 nice plants. Especially when you have to make sure the Undersides of the leaves are the first to get drenched. Takes a lot of liquid. A lot. The whole plants literally has to be dripping. Undersides in particular.
 
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