BigBlonde
- 1,379
- 263
Mostly, yes. It's worst at the tops. Lower leaves are showing it, but less so.and this is happening only at the tops?
I wondered if that might be the problem, except the top of the plant is 22 inches from the light and the light is set just a little above 50%. The manufacturer say to run it at 100% during flowering at that distance. I'll turn it down some more and see how the plants respond. I had already turned down the light when I flipped them, though.light stress
I'm guessing not because I've read that plants grown under LED lights need Cal-Mag while flowering.I would have guessed to much calcium, but if the other plant liked it when you added more then mabe not.
I waited till the lights came on this morning and lowered the power to both lights. I have a wattage meter on each light so I can precisely set the power. The lights are both the ViparSpectra XS2000 model, but one is newer than the other. The newer one has always seemed more powerful and that is the one over the plant showing symptoms of light stress. The other plant has some symptoms, but they aren't nearly as visible.light stress
I do not see that as light burn or Calcium def. The fox farms nut line up has something to do with this. I have never looked at that brand but I have seen people multiple times with problems such as yours using that line. What are you feed of each bottle and how often?I waited till the lights came on this morning and lowered the power to both lights. I have a wattage meter on each light so I can precisely set the power. The lights are both the ViparSpectra XS2000 model, but one is newer than the other. The newer one has always seemed more powerful and that is the one over the plant showing symptoms of light stress. The other plant has some symptoms, but they aren't nearly as visible.
In vegetation, I had the lights set to 140 watts (35 watts/sq ft). When I flipped, I lowered them to 134 watts (33.5 watts/sq ft).
Today, I lowered the lights to 120 watts (30 watts/sq ft). That's half power for that model. So, I'm thinking the lights may be too powerful for the tent. Anyway, 30 watts per square foot is often recommended, so that's the level I set them to.
What I need to do is get better at reading the indicators of light stress. A few weeks ago, I thought about starting a thread to discuss it, but didn't do it.
I have had nutrient problems from the beginning of this grow. I think it's because I wasn't familiar with the FF Happy Frog soil. I didn't realize that it doesn't have much in the way of nutrients out of the bag. As a result, I have not been feeding the plants well enough. I saw signs of calcium deficiency before I flipped, but didn't do anything about it at the time. For my next grow, I'm planning to use Ocean Forest soil. Meanwhile, I hope to finish this grow with a reasonable crop.I do not see that as light burn or Calcium def. The fox farms nut line up has something to do with this. I have never looked at that brand but I have seen people multiple times with problems such as yours using that line.
I have followed the FF feeding chart, using nutrients at the recommended amount. I also began adding FF Bush Doctor Cal-Mag during the first week of flower. Thinking that it probably is a calcium deficiency, I doubled the dose of Cal-Mag at the last feeding a few days ago. I'll return to the standard dose for the next feeding.What are you feed of each bottle and how often?
Big Bloom (0 - 0.5 - 0.7) | 15 ml |
Tiger Bloom (2 - 8 - 4) | 5 ml |
Bush Doctor Cal-Mag (1 - 0 - 0) | 5 ml |
I agree they look low on nitrogen, but that could be the lights, too, I think. Big Bloom has zero nitrogen. Grow Big and Tiger Bloom have nitrogen.If I had to guess, you’re low on nitrogen. My fox farm schedule shows using big bloom a few weeks into flower, so they’re recommending a 6-4-4 mixture as well as the big bloom and tiger bloom.
Oops I meant grow big, not big bloom. You’re right.I agree they look low on nitrogen, but that could be the lights, too, I think. Big Bloom has zero nitrogen. Grow Big and Tiger Bloom have nitrogen.
I am using the Fox Farm schedule, too. I wish the schedule were by stages of growth rather than weeks. I'm in the 12th week now. It is the 4th week since the flip. We had a slow start.
I was using Grow Big (6 - 4 - 4) up to the flip. Then I started reducing the N.
plant could have really used some n for the flip stretchI was using Grow Big (6 - 4 - 4) up to the flip. Then I started reducing the N.
This was my first thought but taking the opposite route of the obvious deficiency I wonder if we may have a lockout issue due to overfertilization? It's pretty well known that the FF nutrient schedule is pretty strong, so are you measuring the TDS/EC of your solution before watering? Is everything pretty tight with your temps and humidity?If I had to guess, you’re low on nitrogen.
Agreed that they’re pretty strong. I typically do 50% after a month of not using nutrients, then slowly increase the amount until I switch to flower.This was my first thought but taking the opposite route of the obvious deficiency I wonder if we may have a lockout issue due to overfertilization? It's pretty well known that the FF nutrient schedule is pretty strong, so are you measuring the TDS/EC of your solution before watering? Is everything pretty tight with your temps and humidity?
Oh, damn! When will I learn to read. Yes. My schedule says that, too. It was a FIM moment for me.My schedule says “extended veg cycle repeat week 4, extended flowering, repeat week 12”.
This plant has had short inter-nodal lengths from the beginning. In retrospect, I believe the light it's under is more intense at the same wattage as the other light, causing shorter internode distances. (Both plants have had the same soil and nutrients.) The lights are the same model, but they have different power supplies. I was probably running both lights too high, as well.plant could have really used some n for the flip stretch
Oh, damn! When will I learn to read. Yes. My schedule says that, too. It was a FIM moment for me.
This plant has had short inter-nodal lengths from the beginning. In retrospect, I believe the light it's under is more intense at the same wattage as the other light, causing shorter internode distances. (Both plants have had the same soil and nutrients.) The lights are the same model, but they have different power supplies. I was probably running both lights too high, as well.
I'll get a comparison picture of the two plants soon. One plant is sitting on a box while the other plant is on the floor. Aside from light differences and possible genetic variation, they've had the same conditions.
I doubt it. I've had low nutrient problems from the beginning.I wonder if we may have a lockout issue due to overfertilization?
I don't have measurement devices for TDS or EC. I did run the nutrients at half strength till flower, though.It's pretty well known that the FF nutrient schedule is pretty strong, so are you measuring the TDS/EC of your solution before watering?
That I think I'm doing well this time. Here's a current reading:Is everything pretty tight with your temps and humidity?
not playing the blonde card ?It was a FIM moment for me.
If your leaf surface temperature is 71F or above you should be good on your environmental conditions. In my tent the leaf surface temp sits around 8 degrees lower than my ambient temperature but that will be different for everyone.I doubt it. I've had low nutrient problems from the beginning.
I don't have measurement devices for TDS or EC. I did run the nutrients at half strength till flower, though.
That I think I'm doing well this time. Here's a current reading:
View attachment 1323064
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?