DutchLog01 - (trying) organic Hydro aka the problem SoG (Coco High-Freq-Fert - 10x5 LED)

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N1ghtL1ght

N1ghtL1ght

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The 70ppm I got from Beaker, I had saved that in my big table back then. As I said, that fits with what GPT said, and the lowest dosage in the paper was similar.
I'd like to read this data to see, what the differences in their application method was, if so...

Regarding the mold, I didn't say much about it last time: it was really bad this time. What was noticeable was that even the small flowers at the bottom and middle frequently had mold where they attached to the main stem. So there was no spreading from the inside. Everything looked very fresh, and I had to thoroughly examine it under the lamp and with the microscope to find it all.
Could it be that your strain grows alot of pre-flowers? I've observed something similar when growing a Brazil wild-type, it had big preflowers everywhere. These then died way sooner than the tops matured, after dying the preflowers dried, and then afterwards must have been soaking in water from the transpiration that was going on around them. These then became the starting point for budrot, it spread, and once harvested I could see it in some flowers where it started (the dried molded areas turn whitish)

Just a guess

edit:
also maybe trying to sanitize the air could be thing for you, HEPA filters would be one thing though they take away from the efficiency of your vent out. Another thing could be an UVC (non O3) lamp in an alu pipe encasing in from of the air in, though it will warm up the air a bit, and you need to install a lighttrap afterwards
 
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Dr.Dutch

Dr.Dutch

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I'd like to read this data to see, what the differences in their application method was, if so...
I'll send you and @BeakerBombs a DM invite on forum.canna (as planed) so we can talk about it there.
Could it be that your strain grows alot of pre-flowers? I've observed something similar when growing a Brazil wild-type, it had big preflowers everywhere. These then died way sooner than the tops matured, after dying the preflowers dried, and then afterwards must have been soaking in water from the transpiration that was going on around them. These then became the starting point for budrot, it spread, and once harvested I could see it in some flowers where it started (the dried molded areas turn whitish)
Here is a schematic representation. "Attached to" was not quite appropriate in the explanation. "Outer areas of the flowers that, due to their compact growth, came into contact with other plant parts (flowers/stems), resulting in anaerobic/moist areas" would probably be a better description. Don't think that this had something to do with the pre-flowers, and under the microscope these parts looked quite good.
This is an example of what I so unfortunately also really had in the tent. Partly over 90% infestation on one plant.
Spreading from the inside was seen only in the upper flowers
NICHTSCHNABERSELTEN


This time I only had the SK#4 in the tent, which was over 95% mold-free last time with Beaker's products. Since it didn't help at all with the SK#5, I thought I could leave it out for the #4 as well. There are three possible reasons for the infestation:

  1. Too many PGRs (by providing plenty of food for the PGPMs) in the solution, which led to a compact growth that promotes mold
  2. Overall poor health of the plants due to unbalanced nutrients.
  3. No antagonists in the flowers that directly combat the fungus.
It's impossible to say after the fact which factor had what influence, but I assume that by changing all three factors, I can get the SK#4 mold-free again in the next run. Especially the B. amy. should be very effective according to the study. Getting the GRoom sterilized, i.e., the tent, will be quite an effort. You can see the entire room in the new report, where the exhaust is currently only venting out of the large tent, so all the air in the room goes through the big tent out of the basement window.
 
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