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First Time 12 Site Ebb And Grogro

yeah dwc or not.....when the clones root....in the plugs....you just set them in the hydroton .....same as when you use rockwool or whatever....it is easier when the are rooted in a plug then when they go strait into hydroton
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First Time 12 Site Ebb And Grogro

by wasfromks · Started Mar 1, 2016
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Wisher619

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#801
yeah dwc or not.....when the clones root....in the plugs....you just set them in the hydroton .....same as when you use rockwool or whatever....it is easier when the are rooted in a plug then when they go strait into hydroton
 
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Midwestjay

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#802
Wisher619 said:
yeah dwc or not.....when the clones root....in the plugs....you just set them in the hydroton .....same as when you use rockwool or whatever....it is easier when the are rooted in a plug then when they go strait into hydroton
Click to expand...
Cool, I wasn't sure about that part. You are taking about a rapid rooter right?
 
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wasfromks

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#803
 
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wasfromks

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#804
I've still got to switch to the HP's bulbs and these bitches are still stretching. Will they get to a stopping point? Is it possible that they are still stretching a ton because I have the mh bulbs running still?
 
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Wisher619

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#805
@wasfromks are you sure they are still stretching.....they shouldn't be doing anything but packing on the flower now....
once they show that much flower they should be completely done and rocking.......you can flower with either bulb.....MH actually reduces stretch...once she is done then the hps builds bulk...the MH if left for flowering will give you whisper buds but more complex with more resin.....that is why they make DE bulbs now......I would throw the HPS in now...and bump your P/K and watch them ladies swell

@Midwestjay yeah rapid rooters or root riot or even rock wool cube anything that will stabilize the cutting's roots before she goes into the hydration or what ever hydro media you wanna use
 
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wasfromks

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#806
Wisher619 said:
@wasfromks are you sure they are still stretching.....they shouldn't be doing anything but packing on the flower now....
once they show that much flower they should be completely done and rocking.......you can flower with either bulb.....MH actually reduces stretch...once she is done then the hps builds bulk...the MH if left for flowering will give you whisper buds but more complex with more resin.....that is why they make DE bulbs now......I would throw the HPS in now...and bump your P/K and watch them ladies swell

@Midwestjay yeah rapid rooters or root riot or even rock wool cube anything that will stabilize the cutting's roots before she goes into the hydration or what ever hydro media you wanna use
Click to expand...
Yeah they are still stretching because I went to check them first thing every morning and they grew to the lights last 2 days.
 
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Wisher619

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#807
how many weeks have they been in flower now?? Should be about done....the stretch usually occurs between 1-3 weeks
 
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wasfromks

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#808
Wisher619 said:
how many weeks have they been in flower now?? Should be about done....the stretch usually occurs between 1-3 weeks
Click to expand...
If I'm not mistaken this is 3-4. I could scroll back through the thread to find the exact date but I would say off my head maybe may 5/6.
 
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Wisher619

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#809
then they should be completely done bu now......there is no stretch after flower formations....I could be wrong but I have never seen it.....
 
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Midwestjay

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#810
Yea that stretch had to be done. Not saying they won't grow another centimeter after fire flower. I'm thinking this is 2 weeks since the flip. Something like that. Like wish said they'll just be packing in the bud now.
 
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Irie Farmer

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#811
Midwestjay said:
If you keep it up it'll be hours and hours of trimming. It's kinda fun at first but it's the shittiest part of growing. I imagine you got a couple days worth of trimming unless you run a marathon and that ain't no fun.
Click to expand...
Uh huh! I'm too old man, I have let most of the really pain in the arse to trim ladies go except for a few special sativas that are irreplaceable and definitely worth the work. I've made that one of my criteria for keepers. Call me lazy, but no more 28 hour trim sessions for me! The day before I chop I remove most of the fan leaves and anything that I don't use for hash while still upright and supporting itself. Makes it so much easier and you don't have to damage the trichs as much from handling them. Then I let 'em dry whole on the plant and do a dry final trim so they can be curing up nicely and I don't have to try to power through a garbage bag in a sitting. Best, Irie.
 
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Irie Farmer

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#812
Wisher619 said:
@wasfromks are you sure they are still stretching.....they shouldn't be doing anything but packing on the flower now....
once they show that much flower they should be completely done and rocking.......you can flower with either bulb.....MH actually reduces stretch...once she is done then the hps builds bulk...the MH if left for flowering will give you whisper buds but more complex with more resin.....that is why they make DE bulbs now......I would throw the HPS in now...and bump your P/K and watch them ladies swell

@Midwestjay yeah rapid rooters or root riot or even rock wool cube anything that will stabilize the cutting's roots before she goes into the hydration or what ever hydro media you wanna use
Click to expand...
Exactly. The MH will cut your stretch in half usually. They should be done and ready for some P/K boost if you want to really pack on some weight and put that trellis to work. Best, Irie.
 
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Midwestjay

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#813
Irie Farmer said:
Uh huh! I'm too old man, I have let most of the really pain in the arse to trim ladies go except for a few special sativas that are irreplaceable and definitely worth the work. I've made that one of my criteria for keepers. Call me lazy, but no more 28 hour trim sessions for me! The day before I chop I remove most of the fan leaves and anything that I don't use for hash while still upright and supporting itself. Makes it so much easier and you don't have to damage the trichs as much from handling them. Then I let 'em dry whole on the plant and do a dry final trim so they can be curing up nicely and I don't have to try to power through a garbage bag in a sitting. Best, Irie.
Click to expand...
Good advise.
 
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Midwestjay

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#814
This critical has been stretching it's ass off. I know I've gotten used to the t5 for veg but I'm thinking these cheap bulbs have already worn out. They've got like 6months on them.
 
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Midwestjay

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#815
Ok @Wisher619 So at flower when you're adding your pk booster you replace ppm, not add. As in don't just add the pk to total ppm. You drop how much base takes to be even when you add the pk?
 
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Wisher619

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#816
@Midwestjay it all depends on nutes you are running but yeah there is no need to go over the ppms you just trade the nutrient profile around
 
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Wisher619

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#817
for me running CNS17 by botanicare....I use the bloom formula for most of my grow....then switch to ripe as soon as my girls start to flower.....but I stay at 1.8ec bloom is a 2-2-3 and ripe is 1-5-4 and I always run CalMg+ which is 2-0-0
so my profile goes from
grow/transition 4-2-3
bloom. 3-5-4
 
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Midwestjay

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#818
With Mills, A is 3-0-1 and B is 0-4-3, koolbloom is 0-10-10
 
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Wisher619

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#819
so this is just a guess but you would lower your A/B in ppms to compensate for the Koolbloom that you are gonna use....you dont need much of that Koolbloom because it is hella strong correct??
Think of it like GH 3 part.....you would lower one to compensate for the other....
so how many mls of Mills per A/B are you using....and what does the ec come to
I see that the mills says to just add pk boost and the base stays the same....you could try that....if the tips start to burn....back off a little
 
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Midwestjay

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#820
Wisher619 said:
so this is just a guess but you would lower your A/B in ppms to compensate for the Koolbloom that you are gonna use....you dont need much of that Koolbloom because it is hella strong correct??
Think of it like GH 3 part.....you would lower one to compensate for the other....
so how many mls of Mills per A/B are you using....and what does the ec come to
I see that the mills says to just add pk boost and the base stays the same....you could try that....if the tips start to burn....back off a little
Click to expand...
8.5 ml of A&B per gal. (7gal total). And 2.5ml of kb
 
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