MiHomeGrown
- Posts
- 52
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- 54
- Joined
- Aug 7, 2019
- Points
- 18
I don’t have the privacy requirements outside at the moment to put them in the ground. I’ll figure it out until payday.
I don’t have the privacy requirements outside at the moment to put them in the ground. I’ll figure it out until payday.Or if your budget is tight, can you stick them in the ground. Then you could keep using that line.
Id try to return the nutrients and demand an exchange for correct nutrients for coco.I don’t have the privacy requirements outside at the moment to put them in the ground. I’ll figure it out until payday.
Now you’re causing me to wonder if these nutes are what caused the mother of these plants to stress and nanner. She turned at 40 days into bloom. She was a grease monkey seed and these are her clones.Id try to return the nutrients and demand an exchange for correct nutrients for coco.
That was for that pic and clarity. You’re right though and that isn’t a normal practice for me at all. I’m sort of resigned to a reduced crop and feeling kinda down about that so I didn’t take proper care.I’d stop bringing your plants outside too. That’s a big fat no no if you grow indoors. You don’t want to add pests to your list of problems. Trust me, I’m battling some form of spider mite that drifted it’s way in.
Thank you for the clear information! I’ve seen enough now on nutes to be convinced to switch. Also I will be trying to get a refund/ exchange.Here’s what I think is going on. The FoxFarm Big Bloom is organic. Feeding organics in coco must be done sparingly. The organic components are rotting in the root zone driving the pH down. I would flush the coco with a lot of plain pH corrected water and switch nutrient line. There are a lot of better choices for coco than FoxFarms.
I’d pH it within the appropriate range for coco. I like my ph a bit higher, around 6.0 -6.2 but that’s just me.Thank you for the clear information! I’ve seen enough now on nutes to be convinced to switch. Also I will be trying to get a refund/ exchange.
Follow-up question: my city water is 7.0 out of the tap, should I ph down to say 6.0 or just flush with that 7.0 and monitor ph accordingly?
Thank you for the clear information! I’ve seen enough now on nutes to be convinced to switch. Also I will be trying to get a refund/ exchange.
Follow-up question: my city water is 7.0 out of the tap, should I ph down to say 6.0 or just flush with that 7.0 and monitor ph accordingly?
I feel you, I am down on myself too with this current grow in flower... my light timer got switched to the light on all the time setting so my plants started to reveg and I’ve been fighting these spider mites (luckily not the borg). When I think I got them gone, I find a few more. It’s really hard to stay positive.That was for that pic and clarity. You’re right though and that isn’t a normal practice for me at all. I’m sort of resigned to a reduced crop and feeling kinda down about that so I didn’t take proper care.
However, you'll want to resume feeding in the pH range that @Seraphine suggests. I’ve also found anything below 6.0 to be a little low.I’d pH it within the appropriate range for coco. I like my ph a bit higher, around 6.0 -6.2 but that’s just me.
I’m sorry to hear the troubles. It sucks with all the work and effort only to be slapped in flower!I feel you, I am down on myself too with this current grow in flower... my light timer got switched to the light on all the time setting so my plants started to reveg and I’ve been fighting these spider mites (luckily not the borg). When I think I got them gone, I find a few more. It’s really hard to stay positive.
Green cleaner will fix it rotate with habenaro spray every 3 days. Spider mites and eggs will be gone in 2 weeks. I’ve got a thrip problem I’ve been battling for 3 weeks god damn growing in the garage is for the birds:)I feel you, I am down on myself too with this current grow in flower... my light timer got switched to the light on all the time setting so my plants started to reveg and I’ve been fighting these spider mites (luckily not the borg). When I think I got them gone, I find a few more. It’s really hard to stay positive.
I actually just order some green cleaner today along with some other less organic, use as a last resort miticide. I’ve been using azamax (both Foliar and soil drench for systemic), azera, and spinosad. I’ve been keeping them at low numbers but I know it’s the application method I’m using. Hand spraying just isn’t cutting it. I’m using the dunk your whole plant method tomorrow.Green cleaner will fix it rotate with habenaro spray every 3 days. Spider mites and eggs will be gone in 2 weeks. I’ve got a thrip problem I’ve been battling for 3 weeks god damn growing in the garage is for the birds:)
I find dunking is the best method when it’s feasible. I’ve actually invested in an atomizer, damn things a life saver.I actually just order some green cleaner today along with some other less organic, use as a last resort miticide. I’ve been using azamax (both Foliar and soil drench for systemic), azera, and spinosad. I’ve been keeping them at low numbers but I know it’s the application method I’m using. Hand spraying just isn’t cutting it. I’m using the dunk your whole plant method tomorrow.
I find dunking is the best method when it’s feasible. I’ve actually invested in an atomizer, damn things a life saver.
Looks a lot like the black spot fungus on roses. Now its getting the sugar leaves too, total loss. I’d throw away the whole pot of coir too.Attached are the nutes I am using. As well as the worst of the 3 plants in sunlight. (One of them has zero evidence of this issue and is 22 days into bloom).
That's what I thought. Leaf septoria. Usually I'm like nope and it's tossed around quite a bit but this time I kinda feel like it is.Looks a lot like the black spot fungus on roses. Now its getting the sugar leaves too, total loss. I’d throw away the whole pot of coir too.
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