citygrower18
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would really like to see a picture if possible of scrog attached to bucket lids
All I can say is Google this and you will find it.would really like to see a picture if possible of scrog attached to bucket lids
Perfect for DWC. I still prefer rdwc but that's perfect bro.Heres what I've done now this it's just mock up obviously you can see the mounting u clip. And see in the 2nd pic how the legs can be turned to lean in once mounted its pretty sturdy tape all the fitted joints so they don't pop out or glue permenatly.
I set it about 12" above the lid. Flip when 3/4 full and tuck for the first week of flower.when in regards to flowering is it best to set up a scrog? may go with the easy vivosun
I dont think I will super crop unless I have to later on, because its my first growHave you looked Into supercropping? Like I said before it's now my preferred method to control my canopy. It's easy does a bit of damage but my blueberry didn't go into shock at all the leaves didnt even droop.
Here's what my canopy looks like. I never topped it or trained it, even though itlooksas if I topped it it actually grew this way naturally.
So that one plant is in a tent that is 2.5x2.5x5.5
Try what I listed above. You water is lacking a buffer. Add 75ppm of ph up (look into potassium silicate instead it's great for the plants and a great ph buffer) then add your nutrients then ph down and the ph should be a lot more stable.
It is important how you mix your nutrients and in what order.
Do you have a recent pic if the plants and roots?
I feel like we talked about this before.
Ok use tap water and add ph up to reach 110ppm so 50ppm ph up. We will start there.so I want to make sure I get this right, because I plan to set up my Scrog tomorrow and do a res change before that. I would really like this to be my final complete res change and just keep top feeding after this if possible but I have a feeling it wont be. It will just be more difficult with my 3x3 scrog im putting up, and probably wont be able to build it ontop of each bucket because my tent is too small and plants too bushy for two separate scrogs which I will be picking up separately
anyway I want to go right what you said in this comment...
1- IYO should I cut out the RO water or keep it at 50/50? and see if that will help the overall Ph from falling
2- You say I am lacking a buffer- so if decide to go with 60ppm tap water (or 50/50 mix) then I add ph up until ppm gets to 75 REGARDLESS of what the brings the Ph to? might that bring Ph to say very high number
3- Since I plan to go into bloom in about 5 days- what ratio would you recommend for flora series now? I was at 1-1-1 until recently I started doing 3-3-4 with 4 being flora bloom like you said. Should I double up or even more 1-1-2or3?
and just from a learning stand point I am curious how this exactly causes the Ph to stay stable, i will look into potassium silicate
read your little article on Ph and buffering.... Amazing and absolutely helpful for my understanding of the process. Thanks for thatOk use tap water and add ph up to reach 110ppm so 50ppm ph up. We will start there.
Ph up first then add nutrients. Keep the same ratio for the next 3 weeks. Then ph down to 5.6.
You are going to need to do res changes up to once every 3 days by the end. Don't scrog if you can do them imo. You can buy a pump and use a hose to empty and fill if you really want to.
I think I linked this before to you. It's because the ph up is adding alkalinity to the water increasing its buffering capacity. Now because there is more alkalinity and more acid any basic or acidic additions will have less impact and so you get a more stable pH.
Here is a better explanation
Marijuana pH Levels for Growing Weed: A Basic Explanation
OK I'm going to do my best to explain PH since its something that is for the most part greatly misunderstood and can be confusing to new growers and even experienced growers alike. This will explain why we need both ppm and PH meters to give us informed information about PH This will be a...www.thcfarmer.com