flushing debate.

[cannarado]

I dont ph my water for flushing>>>RO yes<<
>>why would you flush with acids and shit for??>>to each is own:)


gtd:passingjoint:

^^ Second

 

[FellowTraveler]

I was under the impression that we as indoor growers are tryin to mimic mother nature. So when do outdoor plants growin wild get there flush from mother nature??

KeS

My current grow mimics mother nature all right....

Someone shoved clones at me, and the wife was nagging me to get something growing, so I stuck em in the room, turned on the light and ignored them.

I was busy at work and really didn't have time for a grow.

I watered them once in a while - like nature.
Soil got so dry I managed to air prune in dirt.

Flush em?

Shit.

The trees are so big they are seriously root bound in 5 gal pots.

Time to get unnatural.

Going into the stretch it's going to be a juggling act to keep em uptaking.

I started trimming dead branches and fluff last night, I have one plant that will require tying down, one that needs tying up.

I have to bust out a second 1000w to cover the canopy, but it's such a mess that I'll be lucky to get .5 / light.

Nature is a bitch

 

[clorokid]

My current grow mimics mother nature all right....

Someone shoved clones at me, and the wife was nagging me to get something growing, so I stuck em in the room, turned on the light and ignored them.

I was busy at work and really didn't have time for a grow.

I watered them once in a while - like nature.
Soil got so dry I managed to air prune in dirt.

Flush em?

Shit.

The trees are so big they are seriously root bound in 5 gal pots.

Time to get unnatural.

Going into the stretch it's going to be a juggling act to keep em uptaking.

I started trimming dead branches and fluff last night, I have one plant that will require tying down, one that needs tying up.

I have to bust out a second 1000w to cover the canopy, but it's such a mess that I'll be lucky to get .5 / light.

Nature is a bitch

So I got kind of the same problem, but I am in week 8 of flowering in a 4x3 foot scrog in a 1o gallon container. I had her under the 1000 but she got to big. Trimmed everything under screen, but buds(branches) got to long and had to be bent all kinds of ways( it looks like a bunch of buds that need to put on some mass having an orgy under the sun). So some undergrowth still exists. I'm now having a nutrient lockout after I burned thema bit. So as to relation with you, do you think it would be alright to cut some of the undergrowth off this late into flowering. Palnt doesn't look great, but still has plenty of buds to be salvaged as long as i manage my problems, one which would be the undergrowth. Any takers know about chopping branches off deep in flower. I understand it will slow things down, but am i better off having the plant waste energy on lower growth not getting enough light and either rotting or not amounting too much, or cut her up to save face. Remember week 8 of flowering. Thanks.

 

[StonerB]

NO PH . Im a fan of using heavy doses of bennies during flush. They do a decent job of maintaining PH while they eat up all the left over nutes . Not really cost effective unless you recycle your soil or media. I dont really care about PH during flush because uptake is the last thing I desire at that time. I want my plant to live off and use up whatever it has already inside of it NOT bring in more.

 

[true grit]

I'm still under the theory that, whether folks believe it or not, the tissue in your plants has pH value which is directly related to input ph. uptake is related to pH value. so putting your plant cell tissue out of ph the last week or two is counterproductive- that heavy yellowing is called lockout- ask real organic growers that get fade- not yellowing. Call me stupid for logical science but whatever. It just so happens most RO is at ideal ph for hydro/coco uptake (around 5.8)....which is why flushing with RO works for most.

Plant cell tissue doesn't just eat up whats left- its a whole process that the entire plant undergoes. It begins at the rhizosphere which is where your pH inputs matter.

IMO most people got it easy cuz they either flush with RO (which is almost ideal pH for most media) or they use soil that is heavily chelated and only undergoes a 2wk or so flush. Just sayin...

 

[cctt]

Regarding pH during flush - I've been using citric acid. It won't hold the pH down for very long, but is organic and does not break down into any more available nutrients. This is in a recirculating system, however, so I'm monitoring the pH changes of the rootzone itself by measuring the res water. I feel it makes no sense to measure or try to adjust the pH of RO water fed to a drain-to-waste system as it is too clean to have a meaningful pH in the first place.

 

[Capulator]

Ive done runs where I didnt flush and runs where the plant didnt fade and was flushed with low ec solution. Burned to a white ash everytime.....just wondering why was that? Since everyone says that if it burns to a white ash, it was flushed. I def say it was'nt the best tasting weed Ive grown.

From what I understand white burnign ash comes from a lack of N. This is why growers who can manipulate their elemental ppms will start dropping out N half way through flower.

 

[StonerB]

I'm still under the theory that, whether folks believe it or not, the tissue in your plants has pH value which is directly related to input ph. uptake is related to pH value. so putting your plant cell tissue out of ph the last week or two is counterproductive- that heavy yellowing is called lockout- ask real organic growers that get fade- not yellowing. Call me stupid for logical science but whatever. It just so happens most RO is at ideal ph for hydro/coco uptake (around 5.8)....which is why flushing with RO works for most.

Plant cell tissue doesn't just eat up whats left- its a whole process that the entire plant undergoes. It begins at the rhizosphere which is where your pH inputs matter.

IMO most people got it easy cuz they either flush with RO (which is almost ideal pH for most media) or they use soil that is heavily chelated and only undergoes a 2wk or so flush. Just sayin...

I never said the plant cell tissue eats anything, the bennies do. And yes it all starts at the rhizosphere but at that point when there is a lack of Nitrate ( NO3 - an anion that increases PH) which is MOBILE your plant will sense this and re-locate N from other leaves toward the bottom in an attempt to save the tops. Lockout has nothing to do with this process . The only time "lockout " is an accurate description is when overwatering has caused the roots to swell, anything else is simply an imbalance. And yes ORGANIC growers slowly control this to fade away the green leaving pretty multi-color leaves with no harsh tase come harvest.

 

[true grit]

And I wasn't referring to bennies not working, im referring to the direct correlation between the entire plants pH and the rhizosphere pH. And yes i forget what anion is actually locked out during flush, but there can be a lockout of uptake of nutrients. Crispy yellow doesn't mean flushed. The roots dont do all the work, the whole plant has remnants that need to be processed. Again, like i said, most people either use RO or have chelated mediums.

 

[StonerB]

The whole post is about RO the topic was to PH or not. Elements are available through a RANGE not an exact PH. If you look at the charts for any element to become "locked-out" you would almost have to be below 4 or above 10 , who has that? Water is always needed to be uptaken by the plant, this is osmosis. PH has very little to do with this. If your PH is out out of Range you will get more of some elements and less of others but water will still flow. The roots are the gateway to everything inside the plant. During flush the ONLY thing I want passing that gateway is water, pure H2O. RO water may start at a perfect PH but has a VERY low alkalinity so it does not resist change very well. As you pour RO water into a medium its PH changes rather fast depending on whats in the media ( more cations or more anions ) so adjusting manually is pretty pointless besides adding un-needed ppms. Bottom line PH effects uptake of elements NOT water.