Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V 10A 1100W https://a.co/d/6FMbrZYyes that is a big part but I one thing is I don't see how I could set the fridge to 60 for example like I do the wine fridge. If I can't use the fridge itself to maintain the 60 temp then it is useless to me. It is simply an airtight box at that point. I just keep thinking there must be a way. It is larger than it looks and struck me as a good deal for $0
Thanks Moe. Never seen an inkbird that cheap and for sure going to grab it. As for the RH, can't I just drill a 2, 4 or 6" circle in the side to draw RH out using a fan inside the tubing? If so could I use the same Inkbird to for instance, turn on fan if RH hits 65 and off and once 55?Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V 10A 1100W https://a.co/d/6FMbrZY
This will work if the fridge will work normally with power offs. I converted a chest freezer into a fridge using something similar. Just drill a hole pop the sensor in and a little silicone to seal the hole.
The harder part is the rh in my mind.
I’m not sure how it would work. I think you have 2 setpoints that you are trying to control separately but they influence each other.Thanks Moe. Never seen an inkbird that cheap and for sure going to grab it. As for the RH, can't I just drill a 2, 4 or 6" circle in the side to draw RH out using a fan inside the tubing? If so could I use the same Inkbird to for instance, turn on fan if RH hits 65 and off and once 55?
Roger that and you rock. One last thing if I may. Do you water right up until chop or do you stop x amount of days sooner?I’m not sure how it would work. I think you have 2 setpoints that you are trying to control separately but they influence each other.
Example
Too hot. Turn on fridge. Temp drops. Rh goes up. Rh too high now turn on fan. Sucks in hot air. Temp too high. Turn on fridge.
I think they would battle each other unless you put some software to control things. You will need some clever dead bands. I’m not sure if something like this exists but you could make one.
And you will need a small fan internal to keep the air moving and mixed.
I’m hydro. Not much choice for me. You thinking of trying to get a jump on the dry by lowering water content?Roger that and you rock. One last thing if I may. Do you water right up until chop or do you stop x amount of days sooner?
oh duh forgot about that but I guess I was thinking I was supposed to. I stopped yesterday and was thinkin of choppin the lowers/rest off on Wednesday(11 weeks) and didn't know if should water tomorrow or not. Guess it is kinda here nor thereI’m hydro. Not much choice for me. You thinking of trying to get a jump on the dry by lowering water content?
Sorry man, I don't have much feedback for you, I'm a bit behind and have not looked at your grow in a bit.oh duh forgot about that but I guess I was thinking I was supposed to. I stopped yesterday and was thinkin of choppin the lowers/rest off on Wednesday(11 weeks) and didn't know if should water tomorrow or not. Guess it is kinda here nor there
Naw brotha you gave the answer I was seeking without knowing it and thanks. I know you aren't in soil but if you don't stop short then why would I? I don't want to stress by starving so will water again today, maybe half gall to gal in 7g fab with blumat drippers, shut off this eve and chop Wednesday. I never looked at it like simulating drought until now. If I'm lookin for a slow dry then letting the plants dry back likely shortend that and is unwelcome. Thanks again MoeSorry man, I don't have much feedback for you, I'm a bit behind and have not looked at your grow in a bit.
In general, I am a no-flush kinda guy. I feed like normal right up to the end.
What do you think simulating a drought at harvest does for your crop?
Hey Moe, I wonder if you could help me diagnose the Brix readings I'm getting...It seems to be backwards to my visual observations.....Sorry man, I don't have much feedback for you, I'm a bit behind and have not looked at your grow in a bit.
In general, I am a no-flush kinda guy. I feed like normal right up to the end.
What do you think simulating a drought at harvest does for your crop?
I... don't.... know. You are measuring sugar in the leaf. Perhaps it is going up like all fruits get sweeter as they ripen. But those do not look close to being ready, so?Hey Moe, I wonder if you could help me diagnose the Brix readings I'm getting...It seems to be backwards to my visual observations.....
Up front I've an sf600 low watt( 85w ) I'm using just to extend the coverage and the leaves up front and the buds are looking good...I get a brix of 7...
On the back plants under my 2 se3000 I've yellowing leaves with a narrowing stem ( I believe I started bloom nutes too soon ) I get a brix of 10....wtf....I would expect the opposite with healthy looking leaves having a higher brix%....?????
PCHey Moe, I wonder if you could help me diagnose the Brix readings I'm getting...It seems to be backwards to my visual observations.....
Up front I've an sf600 low watt( 85w ) I'm using just to extend the coverage and the leaves up front and the buds are looking good...I get a brix of 7...
On the back plants under my 2 se3000 I've yellowing leaves with a narrowing stem ( I believe I started bloom nutes too soon ) I get a brix of 10....wtf....I would expect the opposite with healthy looking leaves having a higher brix%....?????
Are they all the same cultivar?Hey Moe, I wonder if you could help me diagnose the Brix readings I'm getting...It seems to be backwards to my visual observations.....
Up front I've an sf600 low watt( 85w ) I'm using just to extend the coverage and the leaves up front and the buds are looking good...I get a brix of 7...
On the back plants under my 2 se3000 I've yellowing leaves with a narrowing stem ( I believe I started bloom nutes too soon ) I get a brix of 10....wtf....I would expect the opposite with healthy looking leaves having a higher brix%....?????
Fucking awesome, now I need a 3D printer for my grows.Printing production parts and upgrading. Once all the blue is gone I’m in business. Then 7 more sets to get started.
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Hopefully it is making sense. Think of it like a hatch on a submarine. I want to pressurize this tote with 90% O2. This was a major leak point. In addition, the hole was too small for maintenance. I also need a hatch in the center for maintenance. So I'll design that hatch based on this base with a quick access panel that does not leak O2. Then 4 of those and I am growing again my friends.
The black towers with holes are there for 2 reasons, I need a spot to mount probe wires and I also want to be able to spin the plant off it's hatch and any LST mounts that I have in place will come with the plant. Those will be LST system mount points. Still gotta desing and print those out, but I can add that in once seedlings are in place.
Ya that;s not going bto happen. all tucked in on the net, moving now would be a disaster.PC
I think I understand the problem with the back plants. Sounds like too much light. The front one has me wondering as the brix in theory should be better. Here is an experiment that could help understand the situation better. Take one of the plants in back with a higher brick and change it’s location with the underperforming plant in the front. Would at the least narrow in on the situation
no the 2 at the back are GG & Gelato, the 3 up front are 2 Gsc and 1 AK47/blaxhberryAre they all the same cultivar?
they are getting close to 1 month in flower.I... don't.... know. You are measuring sugar in the leaf. Perhaps it is going up like all fruits get sweeter as they ripen. But those do not look close to being ready, so?
Let me think about that and get back to you. I'm still a novice on this stuff too.
Alternatively if @Dr.Green55 is around, I'd love to hear your thoughts.
I’ll do some research on this if dr green doesn’t happen by. Or maybe aqua will log in.Ya that;s not going bto happen. all tucked in on the net, moving now would be a disaster.
I am pretty sure I know what is happening based on the cultivars. GG4i is a known heavy feeder. While GSC is a known PITA. Up the feeding on the back onedno the 2 at the back are GG & Gelato, the 3 up front are 2 Gsc and 1 AK47/blaxhberry
Okay thanks Moe, In know Dr.G55, a friend of mine I met on the Farm here. He 's helped me out in the past & lives only 30 min away, He's also the guy who got me to purchase one after he was over here one day. I've not seen or heard from him in a while now, I was hoping he'd help me out with the workings of the thing.I’ll do some research on this if dr green doesn’t happen by. Or maybe aqua will log in.
This is a data point that is different than my limited experience. I’m all in helping you figure this out. Helps me too
Got a little wife time to do but I’ll be back later.
It seems several listened to him explaining Brix and went out and purchased a meter. I believe Doc said 14 percent sugar content is what you are shooting for but 12 and above is really good.Okay thanks Moe, In know Dr.G55, a friend of mine I met on the Farm here. He 's helped me out in the past & lives only 30 min away, He's also the guy who got me to purchase one after he was over here one day. I've not seen or heard from him in a while now, I was hoping he'd help me out with the workings of the thing.
You've handled that part for me and now I just need to know what the numbers indicate and what I should do to my feed schedule as a result of those numbers.
The leaves are toast now, they won't start looking any better but to me its odd they have a higher brix% than the healthier looking leaves
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