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Grow Room A/C

  • Thread starter Thread starter CannabisJohn
  • Start date Start date Mar 22, 2012
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Grow Room A/C

CannabisJohn Mar 22, 2012 2,370 Replies 421,645 Views
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evu80

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Jun 15, 2012
#261
Great that you follow. So I do need an intake fan or source of air for proper ventilation to occur or else the heat will continually build regardless how big and bad this exhaust fan is
 
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freshgardens

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#262
CannabisJohn said:
Go with a 4 ton split system. Still have 1 unit outside but it's only about 3 ft x 3 ft x3 ft instead of a package a/c on roof (maybe 6 ft x 4ft x 4 ft or bigger). Or could do 2-2 ton ductless mini splits. With air cooled lights you should only really need 3 ton unit (so you could get a single 3 ton ductless mini). Outside unit is quieter and smaller than either other options I mentioned.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the response. Can you clearify though what you are saying with the 3 or 4 ton ac unit. No matter the size it still has to be mounted on the top of the roof right? We have a front and back entrance but didnt really understand when you said the package on the roof compared to the 3x3x3. Thanks!
 
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El Cerebro

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Jun 16, 2012
#263
CannabisJohn said:
Won't work w/o reworking the duct work and relocating stat. If you close rest of vents off the a/c can't move enough air. It will freeze up. I did a house but put in large ducts into grow area and disconnected rest of house ducts. I also relocated the stat to grow area.
Click to expand...
Hey John, what basic formula do you use for figuring the larger duct sizes required when blocking off vents? (in my case, 50% of them)

I'm looking at using a small 'gas pack" heat-pump/AC this way. The air exchanger for this system is so conveniently located that re-routing duct will be a snap, very short distances too. Looking at two small rooms linked via fans/ducting with no lung space (concurrent, not on flip, very manageable heat/light levels).
 
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CannabisJohn

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Jun 16, 2012
#264
evu80 said:
Great that you follow. So I do need an intake fan or source of air for proper ventilation to occur or else the heat will continually build regardless how big and bad this exhaust fan is
Click to expand...

Yes. Need a source of fresh cool air. It can just be a hole (passive intake) or fan powered (active intake).
 
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CannabisJohn

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Jun 16, 2012
#265
freshgardens said:
Thanks for the response. Can you clearify though what you are saying with the 3 or 4 ton ac unit. No matter the size it still has to be mounted on the top of the roof right? We have a front and back entrance but didnt really understand when you said the package on the roof compared to the 3x3x3. Thanks!
Click to expand...

I was talking about size of component placed on roof. There are 2 main types of a/c systems. First type is called a package unit (all a/c components are in 1 box) or split system (2 or 3 separate components). With split system 1-2 components are inside like a regular house a/c.
 
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CannabisJohn

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Jun 16, 2012
#266
El Cerebro said:
Hey John, what basic formula do you use for figuring the larger duct sizes required when blocking off vents? (in my case, 50% of them)

I'm looking at using a small 'gas pack" heat-pump/AC this way. The air exchanger for this system is so conveniently located that re-routing duct will be a snap, very short distances too. Looking at two small rooms linked via fans/ducting with no lung space (concurrent, not on flip, very manageable heat/light levels).
Click to expand...

I don't use a formula. I have a chart that I can look up. All I need from use is tonnage of a/c and number of ducts you want to divide the supply and return into.
 
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KGBudman

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#267
I could have sworn I already researched this and came to the conclusion that each 1k of light needed 3600 BTU's of A/C, just for the light. I thought it was here in this thread(actually the old one that was lost). All I'm finding now is 6k of A/C per 1k of light. Is the 6k of A/C per 1k of light for ballasts IN the room? Mine are outside the room. Having a hell of a time keeping shit cool with just exhaust. Obviously not enough air exchange. Gonna seal this bitch. Wanting to use some decent window bangers. So for a 10 x 13 x 12(1560CF), how much A/C should I need? Running Adjustawings for the first time. Only thing in the room for heat will be lights,1 or 2 70 pint dehuey's(whatever I find is needed) and a humidifier when needed. I think the dehuey's are 230 watts each. Also looking at another room the same size but with 4 kool tubes vertical VENTED, OUTSIDE AIR/OUTSIDE plus 2 adjustawings . Actually, I guess it dosen't matter on the 2nd one. That will be done same as the first in case I don't like the kool tube thing. Want the ability to run 6k open in the room if I wanna.
 
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CannabisJohn

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Jun 18, 2012
#268
KGBudman said:
I could have sworn I already researched this and came to the conclusion that each 1k of light needed 3600 BTU's of A/C, just for the light. I thought it was here in this thread(actually the old one that was lost). All I'm finding now is 6k of A/C per 1k of light. Is the 6k of A/C per 1k of light for ballasts IN the room? Mine are outside the room. Having a hell of a time keeping shit cool with just exhaust. Obviously not enough air exchange. Gonna seal this bitch. Wanting to use some decent window bangers. So for a 10 x 13 x 12(1560CF), how much A/C should I need? Running Adjustawings for the first time. Only thing in the room for heat will be lights,1 or 2 70 pint dehuey's(whatever I find is needed) and a humidifier when needed. I think the dehuey's are 230 watts each. Also looking at another room the same size but with 4 kool tubes vertical VENTED, OUTSIDE AIR/OUTSIDE plus 2 adjustawings . Actually, I guess it dosen't matter on the 2nd one. That will be done same as the first in case I don't like the kool tube thing. Want the ability to run 6k open in the room if I wanna.
Click to expand...


For unvented lights use 6000 btus of a/c per 1kw. If you vent them properly use 4000 btus of a/c per 1 kw of light. For technical purposes it's 3416 btus per 1kw. I use the bigger numbers to take care of the room construction and other equipment (including digital ballasts not magnetic). Most people don't put ballasts in room but my numbers should cover digital ballasts in room.
 
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CALI GRN

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#269
Hey John I have an 8x8 frame up with drywall.I also have a LG window unit with 4 1k lights what's the best way to exhaust the lights?and keep my room temp between 74 and 78.do I exhaust from the 8x8 or from outside of it the garage.also do I want to bring fresh air into the room or add c02 please help building new grow room thanks
 
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CannabisJohn

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Jun 19, 2012
#270
CALI GRN said:
Hey John I have an 8x8 frame up with drywall.I also have a LG window unit with 4 1k lights what's the best way to exhaust the lights?and keep my room temp between 74 and 78.do I exhaust from the 8x8 or from outside of it the garage.also do I want to bring fresh air into the room or add c02 please help building new grow room thanks
Click to expand...

How big is a/c unit? If it's 24k than don't vent lights. If not ,vent lights using outside air in and out. Also add CO2.
 
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CALI GRN

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#271
Thanks a lot for the info.My unit is 15k I was gonna exhaust it from outside the room,just wanted a second opinion.now I've never ran c02 before but would like to know how with my setup.also with the c02 I wouldn't have to bring in fresh air in to the 8x8? Also If I wasn't gonna run the c02 I can just bring fresh air in to the room or am I fine with just the a/c ? Would like some info please appreciate it thanks
 
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CannabisJohn

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Jun 20, 2012
#272
CALI GRN said:
Thanks a lot for the info.My unit is 15k I was gonna exhaust it from outside the room,just wanted a second opinion.now I've never ran c02 before but would like to know how with my setup.also with the c02 I wouldn't have to bring in fresh air in to the 8x8? Also If I wasn't gonna run the c02 I can just bring fresh air in to the room or am I fine with just the a/c ? Would like some info please appreciate it thanks
Click to expand...

Need CO2 bottle, regulator, and timer setup. Check with your local hydro store. If you run CO2 you won't need to add fresh air to room.
 
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Dulce

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Jun 21, 2012
#273
Hey CannabisJohn,

hope you can help with this....

I am going to install a window unit in my room but need to have it programmed for different day night settings. I think I have my problem solved as to how to acheive this by using this timer/controller from C.A.P..


It is a programmable timer that kicks on the a/c based on the day/night temps you program into it. A fairly simple solution to dial in temps, but my question to you is when using a timer such as this do I need to buy a "mechanical" a/c with turn knobs and stuff or can I buy a unit with digital controls??

Also if the a/c does need to be "mechanical", or manual for lack of a better term, can you help steer me in the right direction as I can't seem to find any in the 10-12k btu range?

Thanks so much!!

D
 
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joehank

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Jun 21, 2012
#274
With minisplits, such as this one:


do you have to switch between the heating and cooling functions, or is it taken care of with the thermostat? In the winter ( New England) my room gets to 80 with lights on and portable AC, and drops to 64 at lights out. I want the temps to remain more consistent , so will the heater kick on by itself if thermo is set to say 79?
 
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CannabisJohn

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Jun 21, 2012
#275
Dulce said:
Hey CannabisJohn,

hope you can help with this....

I am going to install a window unit in my room but need to have it programmed for different day night settings. I think I have my problem solved as to how to acheive this by using this timer/controller from C.A.P..


It is a programmable timer that kicks on the a/c based on the day/night temps you program into it. A fairly simple solution to dial in temps, but my question to you is when using a timer such as this do I need to buy a "mechanical" a/c with turn knobs and stuff or can I buy a unit with digital controls??

Also if the a/c does need to be "mechanical", or manual for lack of a better term, can you help steer me in the right direction as I can't seem to find any in the 10-12k btu range?

Thanks so much!!

D
Click to expand...

Should be able to use any unit that has auto restart on power failure.
 
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CannabisJohn

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Jun 21, 2012
#276
joehank said:
With minisplits, such as this one:


do you have to switch between the heating and cooling functions, or is it taken care of with the thermostat? In the winter ( New England) my room gets to 80 with lights on and portable AC, and drops to 64 at lights out. I want the temps to remain more consistent , so will the heater kick on by itself if thermo is set to say 79?
Click to expand...


If the remote has an auto mode. In auto mode it will maintain what temp u set it at.
 
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johnnyrex

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Jun 21, 2012
#277
Hello John I am in the transition of moving in to a new house. I have a spare room in the basement that about 12x12 I'm in the process of framing and insulating the room I will be running 5 1000watt digital ballast dimmable.All my light will be vertical hung bare bulb Iam really not going to run 5000 watt only in 750 watt mode but I don't know what the future holds i might in the future for as cooling what do you recommed a mini split or excel type ac and how many tons I need? I will be running a hydrogen water cooled co2 all ballast are outside room a dehumidifier in room with fans and pumps etc.

Do I need a system that cycles on & off or constently? I heard that I need it to run constently to benifit the power cause if it cycles on & off it pikes the power and going to be more costly monthly thanks for the speedy reply
 
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CannabisJohn

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Jun 22, 2012
#278
johnnyrex said:
Hello John I am in the transition of moving in to a new house. I have a spare room in the basement that about 12x12 I'm in the process of framing and insulating the room I will be running 5 1000watt digital ballast dimmable.All my light will be vertical hung bare bulb Iam really not going to run 5000 watt only in 750 watt mode but I don't know what the future holds i might in the future for as cooling what do you recommed a mini split or excel type ac and how many tons I need? I will be running a hydrogen water cooled co2 all ballast are outside room a dehumidifier in room with fans and pumps etc.

Do I need a system that cycles on & off or constently? I heard that I need it to run constently to benifit the power cause if it cycles on & off it pikes the power and going to be more costly monthly thanks for the speedy reply
Click to expand...


Get a 30-36k high seer inverter style mini split. Avoid Excel air if possible. IMO they are not worth the money.
 
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johnnyrex

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Jun 22, 2012
#279
Thanks for fast respond do I need 30 or 36 btu to cycle on&off or constantly running if its over sized will i run into a problem with power pike and high power bills? also I heard that the mini splits over 1 ton will not do the job of cooling a grow room I want to know you feel on that
 
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CannabisJohn

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Jun 22, 2012
#280
johnnyrex said:
Thanks for fast respond do I need 30 or 36 btu to cycle on&off or constantly running if its over sized will i run into a problem with power pike and high power bills? also I heard that the mini splits over 1 ton will not do the job of cooling a grow room I want to know you feel on that
Click to expand...


You need a 30k high seer inverter style mini split. I don't know where you heard that but it's bull. I have installed over 50 mini splits in last year (and nearly 100 in 2 years) that cool grow rooms. They work great if installed properly and unit is high quality. Don't go cheap here.
 
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Thread info

Replies 2,370
Views 421,645
Started Mar 22, 2012
Latest post Jan 10, 2024
Starter CannabisJohn
Forum Growroom Design & Setup

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