Grow Room A/C

[Moostafa]

hello again CJ, blazer, others.
quick question.
currently to maintain environmental levels ive been running my split type 24/7, being sure to set day time (12 hours) temps to around 26C. at night, in order to maintain proper humidity, i set my a/c to "dry" mode for the 12 hour dark cycle. this puts my a/c to a default of 22 C. what exactly is this dry cycle and am i overstressing my unit? sorry jut have a couple months to go of flowering and want to prevent any equipment failures and you are the most knowledgeable person i can go to. thanks again in advance! :)

 

[blazer]

Dry mode is basically a dehumidifier mode
If it senses to high humidity it will dehumidify can't remember the numbers at where it turns on and off thinking anything over 40% but just can't remember might say in manual maybe @CannabisJohn knows off hand
I never use dry mode I put mine on auto for temp and auto for fan, set the temp and then I don't touch it no more should give them a more of a constant environment they can get used to

If it's working for you use it though you may have figured out you dehumidifier issue
Using dry mode will not hurt it at all most of the mini splits go to 75F default if lose power or signal to remote(thermostat) or in dry mode I suppose
Should tell you in owners manual of try looking specs of model on net

 

[Chuckleberry]

Does anyone have instructions on how to clean and maintain the Mitsubishi mini split P series wall unit? I need to remove the round fan blade inside and clean the unit. I usually have my contractor do them but last time they charged me $600 and I am hoping there are instructions on how to do so myself. They seem to accumulate dust and about every 6 months I have to have them removed for cleaning.

I just recently had a powdery mildew outbreak for the first time in 6 years and need to sterilize everything.

Thank you for any help and advice.

Chuck

 

[CannabisJohn]

Does anyone have instructions on how to clean and maintain the Mitsubishi mini split P series wall unit? I need to remove the round fan blade inside and clean the unit. I usually have my contractor do them but last time they charged me $600 and I am hoping there are instructions on how to do so myself. They seem to accumulate dust and about every 6 months I have to have them removed for cleaning.

I just recently had a powdery mildew outbreak for the first time in 6 years and need to sterilize everything.

Thank you for any help and advice.

Chuck

$600 is raping you cause it only takes a hour or less. There are videos out there. Be careful. Are you in SoCal?

 

[Chuckleberry]

$600 is raping you cause it only takes a hour or less. There are videos out there. Be careful. Are you in SoCal?

$600 is to clean 3 units, I wish I were closer I am in Michigan.

I will look for videos, I think I found some for other units but mine seemed a bit different thats why I came here, hopeing you would respond.

Thanks for your quick reply.

C

 

[CannabisJohn]

$600 is to clean 3 units, I wish I were closer I am in Michigan.

I will look for videos, I think I found some for other units but mine seemed a bit different thats why I came here, hopeing you would respond.

Thanks for your quick reply.

C

What model(s) do you have on indoor units? You can't access that part of their website. It's for contractors. It looks like the wall mount indoor units are the same or very close to it for M and P series but give me your model. Also you don't have to remove the blower wheel to clean it. You can remove the front and drop the drain pan for access. Harbor Freight makes a set of pipe cleaners (different sizes of round nylon brushes like baby bottle brushes) that can clean in the grooves.

 

[Chuckleberry]

Model PKA-A24KA4

Thanks again,

I was able to find a video that shows how to remove the front directional blades to get a vacuum inside to clean a little bit but would like to remove the wheel to get in there and really get it clean due to this powdery mildew outbreak. I have never had PM before and it got me good this time and I want to prevent it from happening again.

 

[Og Gong]

Model PKA-A24KA4

Thanks again,

I was able to find a video that shows how to remove the front directional blades to get a vacuum inside to clean a little bit but would like to remove the wheel to get in there and really get it clean due to this powdery mildew outbreak. I have never had PM before and it got me good this time and I want to prevent it from happening again.

 

[Chuckleberry]

Thank you, exactly what I was looking for.

 

[Savage Henry]

Anyone have any experience with mrcool brand mini splits? This one seems pretty slick and has a damn good warranty:

Also, where in the grow room is a good place to mount the air handler? I'm thinking above the lights should be effective as all the hot air gathers up there.

 

[CannabisJohn]

Anyone have any experience with mrcool brand mini splits? This one seems pretty slick and has a damn good warranty:

Also, where in the grow room is a good place to mount the air handler? I'm thinking above the lights should be effective as all the hot air gathers up there.

Mount the air handler up higher but not too high. The area below the lights is what needs cooling. For example if you have 12 ft ceilings but only really growing in bottom 8 ft don't put unit above 8-9 ft. Never heard of this brand. Suspect it's more Chinese junk.

 

[LastHurrah]

This thread is the best CJ! I mounted my 220v 14k BTU through the wall unit on the "high side" in my room with 8 foot ceilings. The room is only 10 x 9 and is used as a lung room for 3 tents. I'm still routing the wires so don't mind them.

This is not a sealed room and I will be constantly exhausting "scrubbed" air at low speed to achieve negative pressure in the room. My question... how critical to actually cut in an intake hole? I can see daylight through the face of my a/c...

I was gonna seal off the existing hvac register in the room when I thought hey... maybe that could be a source for "fresh air". Whadaya's think? I just need to replace the small amount of air being exhausted. The a/c does a good job of keeping the temps where I want so far, but I'm only running some fluoros over my seedlings at the moment.

Thanks for any advice or suggestions and thanks again for such an informative thread y'all!

LH

 

[LastHurrah]

I have another 12x11 room about to get fired up. It MUST have a mini split for stealth. I checked the price of the P series Mitsubishi as CJ suggested earlier... GODDAMN MAN! 3 racks for 12k btu "before" install... not happening.

What can I get away with for a grand before install? Only running 2k of HID in the room. I just need it to be somewhat quiet. Any solid contenders in that price range? Window/wall units just too loud for this situation.

LH

 

[Hookup]

Ive never ran p series just the standard series mitsu (M i think) and had great luck.I put a 3 ton LG in another spot because of price awhile back and its doing fine for the last few months,their a little cheaper,check kingersons.
http://www.kingersons.com/lgsplitairconditioners.html
DO NOT BUY FROM AC WHOLESALERS no matter the price,trust me on this and look at online reviews.If you are in socal talk to john before you do anything,sometimes its cheaper to spend a little more,you get it back FAST in energy savings,good luck!

 

[LastHurrah]

Thanks for that Hookup. I'll check that link out.

If anyone else has an answer to the passive intake question, I'm all ears.

LH

 

[CannabisJohn]

Thanks for that Hookup. I'll check that link out.

If anyone else has an answer to the passive intake question, I'm all ears.

LH

Do you feel the room is in positive or negative pressure when everything is running? If you don't then you're probably good.
Stay away from LG and acwholesalers.com. Get a Mitsubushi M series they are about 1/2 the cost or less than a P series

 

[LastHurrah]

My current room in the photos above has s light positive pressure with things running. Haven't started on the new room yet. I'm mainly concerned with passive intake at this point. Wondering if I actually need to "cut a hole" for passive intake. Or will the "space under the door" work if I filter it. I'm gonna give it a go without cutting a hole and try it out. Probly later today. I'll report back here. In other news...

The "new" room that I wanted a mini-split for is going to start out with a (don't flame me) "portable" a/c. Unless ya's say no, it will be a Whynter dual hose model. I need to ramp this new room up starting with just a 2 or 3 315w CMH lights in tents. If all goes well the first run, I'll upgrade to the M series and add another 1000 watts of H.I.D.

LH

 

[CannabisJohn]

My current room in the photos above has s light positive pressure with things running. Haven't started on the new room yet. I'm mainly concerned with passive intake at this point. Wondering if I actually need to "cut a hole" for passive intake. Or will the "space under the door" work if I filter it. I'm gonna give it a go without cutting a hole and try it out. Probly later today. I'll report back here. In other news...

The "new" room that I wanted a mini-split for is going to start out with a (don't flame me) "portable" a/c. Unless ya's say no, it will be a Whynter dual hose model. I need to ramp this new room up starting with just a 2 or 3 315w CMH lights in tents. If all goes well the first run, I'll upgrade to the M series and add another 1000 watts of H.I.D.

LH

It'll get you by til you can go bigger and better

 

[LastHurrah]

I gotta say CJ... you crack me up with the shortness and directness of your replies... but I be looking forward to them now. Keep on keepin on brotha! You vote today?! LOL

LH

 

[windshear13]

Hi John. I was wondering if you would assume 6,000 BTU of cooling for 1,000 watts of fluorescent lighting as you would for HID? I know the HID ballast runs around 2,500 BTU, making up part of that 6,000 value. Is a fluorescent ballast (T5) responsible for approximately 40% of the heat calculation? Or would it require less than 6,000 BTU to cool 1000 watts of fluoro?

Thanks!