Cool_Beans
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I am one that argues lol but @Cashmeh def knows what they are talking about . I'm still very greenI would focus alot on your nutrient lineup and how you would combat root rot. We can all tell you how to tune your system, but it will be based upon how we run ours. I would stick with the most common design plans, but I would put a focus on gallons per plant. The higher your system holding capacity, the less you have to maintain it. If your doing frequent res changes on a sterile system or live system, the holding capacity isnt as big of a deal. I never run below 10 gallons per plant. So if you have 5 plants, system capacity minimum should be 50 gallons. Most hydro growers run h2o2 with a chiller in a sterile system. Sterile systems are by far the most popular umong hydro growers. To sum it up, its ran like a pool. You use additives to break down the cell walls of the microbes. In a live system its ran more like a lake. We add natural bacteria that will combat the pythium that plagues hydro systems. You can run it at warmer water temps with no chiller. I run live, and only a few others on here run live. So if I tell you what I think you should do, it might conflict with what someone else running a sterile system will tell you. You cannot add h2o2 to a live system and you cannot add bacteria to a sterile system. Since your asking for advice, make sure your specific on your goals. I personally have set some unique goals and have achieved them. I would not recommend taking my path without full dedication lol. Now you can run it like other people run their live system too. Most people do res changes, I do not. I go 2 months and my ppms are at about 500 at the end of the grow, and my res has been sucked dry by the plant leaving only about 20% of the solution, aka 5 gallons per plant grown, to be pumped down the drain. I dont use corrosives on my root system, I dont like running the water at temps lower than 72f due to a personal belief it slows growth. I dont add enzymes because I dont use corrosives and I dont need nutrients rebonded, I dont need enzymes that are not bonded left in the res. I personally grow like no one else, so take it with a grain of salt, I got haters, I got lovers lol. . Personally if your dedicated and dont wanna pump shit outside, and you dont wanna damage the roots with corrosives, and you dont wanna run a chiller. . id say go live. I have a thread where I helped "ispy" do his first live grow. He was happy I think lol . .Basically, let me also state this. The chances of messing up is extremely high, in both systems. So no matter what you do, learn from it and go forward. My profile is viewable and urge you to click some of these links so you know im not full of shit.
We also debate and argue, not just me. . but if theres something above I said wrong, im sure I will have to defend it very very soon. No one holds back bro, so just read and study what those have done just as much as what they say. No one wants to actually watch you fail, we all just have conflicting methods on how you should do it. Its your job to sift through it all and pick your path.
Yeah it's funny, I went through a few of the common failures with growing but I really enjoyed the why and getting the living knowledge. My only aim is to get better every time, and so far I haveYou know funny you mention that I just ordered a venturi to play w for the input of my test bucket.
I appreciate the advice Cashmeh. Your plants look amazing. I'm not always trying to do what everyone else is doing either. I mean, I want to do what works, of course, but it seems like how one chooses to get there is not cast in stone and I really dig that about this.
Oh yeah, in culinary school they stress how valuable failure is as a part of the learning process. Doesnt phase me one bit and I look forward to all of it. Try making good bread on your first try. Isn't going to happen. You just gotta push through.
I was gonna shoot for ~50gal operating capacity w 4 buckets + res and pipes for no other reason than I'd like the changeout volume to fit in a single Rubbermaid so I can have it ready ahead of time.I am one that argues lol but @Cashmeh def knows what they are talking about . I'm still very green
I'll back that up about the learning curve with hydro .. you think it's all good your first go and then you turn your back for a second and it can go south quick. By the time I realized I was fighting root rot by the leaves, it was too late for some.. for a while I was just smelling the res two three times a day while I was learning what works in my system to fight it. I have been doing live these past two(I'm on my second) grows and learning a lot. Still on the fence about going sterile next run or not. While I was able to get on top of it this time, the frustration is still very fresh lol
And great advice about the res size per plant. I think I might be right at that 10 gal mark next run. I wasn't this time, and I can't wait for next run.
I wish I would have spent more time and research on design from the beginning instead of only learning the hard way.
I had a plant doing so good, see below, and then due to carelessness I was fighting root rot on every plant in the grow. I really thought I had it figured out when I had great white roots in the beginning, boy did I get humbled.
How did that work? I'm not that knowledgeable about ozone in water.Ozone would probably kill whatever bugs are causing root rot because it kills everything. Breaks down into oxygen too. We used it for years and never had a single hot bac result or rejected tanker load. Over 40 million gallons potable water delivered in that time span. Takes a solid program. Automated logic in process systems is a blessing. Ozone <.20ppm = shut_it_the_F_down.exe. Nothing was allowed to run if the ozone was out of range. Valves close, pumps disabled, no soup for you. My NovaZone Ozone generator was the only reason I slept well at night lol. I'd switch out fried gaskets all day before I gave it up.
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