Growing with Gaia Green - Shaded's Method

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Blastfact

Blastfact

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Lockebox said:
Hell yeah that's awesome for 9 days! A whole node and a half ahead of mine 🤣
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I'm pushing those Rosette Stones very hard. There a photo and I've had them under 24 hour light. And I'm going to keep them that way until they say Uncle by turning up the edge of there leaves or I transplant them. Then they will go under the 350R's @ 18/6.
 
Blastfact

Blastfact

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I'm good for a bit....

IMG 8798
 
Lockebox

Lockebox

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Seeking advice from the wizard 🧙

This weekend I will be transplanting a few seedlings into one gals amended with the 4-4-4 all purpose, I'm also going to be using the glacial rock dust.
I was thinking I would amend the 2tbsp rock dust into the soil on transplant along with the all purpose and then top dress it again in 2 weeks. Then, amend it on transplant again 2 weeks later along with the all purpose and power bloom and so forth..
Applying Rock dust every 2 weeks and base nutrients every 4 is that about how you do it?

Hope that makes sense lol, excited to get the gaia green in the grow
 
Shaded_One

Shaded_One

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Lockebox said:
Seeking advice from the wizard 🧙

This weekend I will be transplanting a few seedlings into one gals amended with the 4-4-4 all purpose, I'm also going to be using the glacial rock dust.
I was thinking I would amend the 2tbsp rock dust into the soil on transplant along with the all purpose and then top dress it again in 2 weeks. Then, amend it on transplant again 2 weeks later along with the all purpose and power bloom and so forth..
Applying Rock dust every 2 weeks and base nutrients every 4 is that about how you do it?

Hope that makes sense lol, excited to get the gaia green in the grow
Click to expand...

Yep that's exactly correct! Once you transplant out of the seedling starter cups you start both the 2 week micros and 4 week macros - I usually wait 4 weeks between transplant phases just to kill two birds with one stone type of thing:

grow seedlings for ~2 weeks ->
transplant into 1 gallon with micros & macros grow for 2 weeks ->
top dress micros grow for 2 weeks ->
transplant into 5 gallon with micros & macros grow for 2 weeks ->
top dress micros grow for 2 weeks ->
top dress macros & micros grow for 2 weeks ->
top dress micros grow for 2 weeks ->
top dress macros & micros grow for 2 weeks etc.
 
Lockebox

Lockebox

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Shaded_One said:
Yep that's exactly correct! Once you transplant out of the seedling starter cups you start both the 2 week micros and 4 week macros - I usually wait 4 weeks between transplant phases just to kill two birds with one stone type of thing:

grow seedlings for ~2 weeks ->
transplant into 1 gallon with micros & macros grow for 2 weeks ->
top dress micros grow for 2 weeks ->
transplant into 5 gallon with micros & macros grow for 2 weeks ->
top dress micros grow for 2 weeks ->
top dress macros & micros grow for 2 weeks ->
top dress micros grow for 2 weeks ->
top dress macros & micros grow for 2 weeks etc.
Click to expand...
Okay perfect that's about what I thought, thanks 😁
I'm a little nervous about the 5 week veg and my space limitations (2x4x5) but it should be fine. I vegged for 4 weeks I believe last grow
 
Shaded_One

Shaded_One

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Lockebox said:
Okay perfect that's about what I thought, thanks 😁
I'm a little nervous about the 5 week veg and my space limitations (2x4x5) but it should be fine. I vegged for 4 weeks I believe last grow
Click to expand...

If you're worried about vegging too long you could cut the amounts for macronutrients in half and then just do all your nutrients every 2 weeks 🧙‍♂️
 
Lockebox

Lockebox

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Hey @Shaded_One how do you go about keeping your soil moist at all times? I'm so used to the dryback with synthetic I've been having a hard time getting my head around it. Right now I'm watering my vegging one gallon pots about 500ml every 3 days and getting just a slight bit of runoff. I can't help but feel like I'm letting the top get too dry but don't want to over water either
 
Shaded_One

Shaded_One

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Lockebox said:
Hey @Shaded_One how do you go about keeping your soil moist at all times? I'm so used to the dryback with synthetic I've been having a hard time getting my head around it. Right now I'm watering my vegging one gallon pots about 500ml every 3 days and getting just a slight bit of runoff. I can't help but feel like I'm letting the top get too dry but don't want to over water either
Click to expand...

This is where fabric pots & high porosity soil come into play! Also as your soil composition improves and the roots fill out the media you'll notice the water retention become more stable. Earth worm castings aren't just there to break stuff down either they also help the soil retain some moisture. Slowly saturate the pots until slight run off and then once the top soil looks like it's dried up (you will see the color change from dark brown or black back to light brown) this is the first sign that you need to consider watering. If the plants are small for the pot size I would prob give them another day but if they are thriving and leaves are over the edges etc I would water the second I see dry top soil.
 
Blastfact

Blastfact

761
143
Shaded_One said:
This is where fabric pots & high porosity soil come into play! Also as your soil composition improves and the roots fill out the media you'll notice the water retention become more stable. Earth worm castings aren't just there to break stuff down either they also help the soil retain some moisture. Slowly saturate the pots until slight run off and then once the top soil looks like it's dried up (you will see the color change from dark brown or black back to light brown) this is the first sign that you need to consider watering. If the plants are small for the pot size I would prob give them another day but if they are thriving and leaves are over the edges etc I would water the second I see dry top soil.
Click to expand...
I wish there was some other way to teach new growers about watering and avoid the dry back method which I don't like at all. You learn the truth and how to water with time and experience. But there is no easy way to teach that to a new grower. If a new grower was raised in a veg/ornamental gardens with there parents or grandparents or around grapes and fruit trees they have a massive insight and head start to a complete new grower.
 
Lockebox

Lockebox

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263
Shaded_One said:
This is where fabric pots & high porosity soil come into play! Also as your soil composition improves and the roots fill out the media you'll notice the water retention become more stable. Earth worm castings aren't just there to break stuff down either they also help the soil retain some moisture. Slowly saturate the pots until slight run off and then once the top soil looks like it's dried up (you will see the color change from dark brown or black back to light brown) this is the first sign that you need to consider watering. If the plants are small for the pot size I would prob give them another day but if they are thriving and leaves are over the edges etc I would water the second I see dry top soil.
Click to expand...
Perfect my friend thank you. That's about what I'm doing, watching the color of the topsoil and watering as soon as it's faded brown vs black. They seem really happy and are definitely doing good so I'm on the right track somewhere haha.
Random side note on porosity/aeration, I would like to pick up some rice hulls and mix them into my soil in the future. happy frog straight out of the bag is OK but could use much more perlite IMO
 
Lockebox

Lockebox

1,919
263
Blastfact said:
I wish there was some other way to teach new growers about watering and avoid the dry back method which I don't like at all. You learn the truth and how to water with time and experience. But there is no easy way to teach that to a new grower. If a new grower was raised in a veg/ornamental gardens with there parents or grandparents or around grapes and fruit trees they have a massive insight and head start to a complete new grower.
Click to expand...
Growing up the closest I ever was to gardening was stupid facebook games haha. I plan to teach my son about this aspect of the world. Maybe not these plants directly, but the culture of growing plants a whole. I never had that and I am happy I can pass that forward now.

Well once I learn to get my watering down 😂
 
Neueregel

Neueregel

518
143
Shaded_One said:
Yep that's exactly correct! Once you transplant out of the seedling starter cups you start both the 2 week micros and 4 week macros - I usually wait 4 weeks between transplant phases just to kill two birds with one stone type of thing:

grow seedlings for ~2 weeks ->
transplant into 1 gallon with micros & macros grow for 2 weeks ->
top dress micros grow for 2 weeks ->
transplant into 5 gallon with micros & macros grow for 2 weeks ->
top dress micros grow for 2 weeks ->
top dress macros & micros grow for 2 weeks ->
top dress micros grow for 2 weeks ->
top dress macros & micros grow for 2 weeks etc.
Click to expand...
Hey GTG, is there a reason you stay at 5 gallon? is it ok to go from 1 gallon to 7 gallon?
 
Shaded_One

Shaded_One

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Neueregel said:
Hey GTG, is there a reason you stay at 5 gallon? is it ok to go from 1 gallon to 7 gallon?
Click to expand...

I usually run 4 plants in a 4x4 and veg for around 6~ weeks so I find a 5 gallon to be a nice little fit. This time around like @2Bad said I am running in the 1-plant-scrog challenge so I will be vegging a bit longer this time around and will use a 10 gallon for the first time :) 7 gallons are fine I'm sure
 
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