K
KG1
- Posts
- 576
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- Joined
- Jun 8, 2025
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- 93
I'd feel insulted yes, the advice is to start with acceptable levels and for years we've given acceptable levels for ppms if most things in water.Ah I see, instead of showing evidence of what youre saying you insult me. In my third world country we have free healthcare and education and we dont have one of the highest incarcerations rates in the world, I can go for low blows too.
How your information is not preceded with 'Advicw for people who have trash water' or 'Hiw to solve the fact my water company pipes me unfit water' is beyond me.
At a certain alkalinity all bets are off and your water simply sucks and you should explain this before suggesting I and others need any kind of oh control over a well buffered product.
My only concern, and the concern talked about on sites for years is the total ppm as that will tell you good from bad easily. 300-400ppm water needs some further exploration, under that there's not a lot that can really affect much. Some just make a consideration based on hard or soft under those rough approximations based on individual countries.
If you live in desalinated areas or just bad rock and previous ground spoilage that's a seperate conversation, literally I don't know anywhere in my country that hasn't got pretty good water and if the water wasn't I'd be buying in or filtering which again would negate me having to tell everyone to pH or adjust or de-tox or whatever the issue was.
Those are the rules to growing, get food water with lowish ppm.
Essentially trying to defeat a calcium buffer isn't easy, you may pH but then this is a buffer it will always seek to rise back up to original pH. Only by ionising the buffer away fully can one pH ever be set.
Even the chemistry is slightly off and assume in hydro it's always re corrected or not in the system to matter long enough like Coco.
But that's a higher form of discussion one I'm sure we will get to one day....