Help With Og Bio Brew (formerly Cap's Bennie Tea) And Math

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Capulator

Capulator

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I just used the tea recipe and mixed 2 gals of tea to 20 gals of general hydro lucas formula and did not see favorable results (twisting leaves). Growing in botanicare aeration mix 2gal smart pots. I seen good results from mixing mykos in the media before transplant so i know it doesn't kill the bacteria like ppl might claim. Is this product useable with general hydro nutrients eve tried it?

Yeah it is compatible with all nutes organic and synthetic. Sorry to hear your plants got pissed. When you made the tea what did you use for molasses?
 
Hurricaine

Hurricaine

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Yeah it is compatible with all nutes organic and synthetic. Sorry to hear your plants got pissed. When you made the tea what did you use for molasses?
I used brer rabbit unsulphured molasses. The ph was 7.0. I believe my plants were nearing a cal mag deficiency and the bennies may have expressed that a little faster with the increased uptake of nutrients. I'm hoping that's what happened i still have some biowar left so i will try again wwhen they are healthier. Thanks for the concern and any advice is much appreciated
 
Samoan

Samoan

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Yeah it is compatible with all nutes organic and synthetic. Sorry to hear your plants got pissed. When you made the tea what did you use for molasses?
Apologies if imposing...I brew a 24 Hour Tea with OGBioWar Foliar Pack.
I have a Molasses Product from Grow More called Mendocino Honey. Derived from molasses and seaweed extract also containing 0.5% Montmorillonite clay and 0.5% yucca extract
Guaranteed analysis 0.46-0.26-1.86

I also was thinking about including some alphalpha meal?
Mahalo for reading any suggestions advice much appreciated
 
bibbles

bibbles

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Alfalfa is a goodie, but cut it around week three, you don't want the extra N, and if you really want the tria foliar with canna boost.
 
Samoan

Samoan

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Alfalfa is a goodie, but cut it around week three, you don't want the extra N, and if you really want the tria foliar with canna boost.
Thank you I will now I have alphalpha knowledge. Better for veg so Will cut early in flower...and yes I want to try boost-Iam also using CANNA COCO A B
 
Capulator

Capulator

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@Samoan Careful with alfalfa it may be a vector for stem nematodes. I stopped using it a long time ago. If you want Triacontinol try Ca25 at 1 tsp per gallon.
 
bibbles

bibbles

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@Samoan Careful with alfalfa it may be a vector for stem nematodes. I stopped using it a long time ago. If you want Triacontinol try Ca25 at 1 tsp per gallon.

Why does everyone think Ca-25 has tria in it? Just saying, they specifically state that it doesn't. :/
 
bibbles

bibbles

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I've read it, but I've also read that Ca-25 has a calcium chloride base, that borax is a decent surfactant, and that the two are synergistic to a pretty significant degree when applied together as a foliar.

Ca-25 MSDS: http://cdn.arbico-organics.com/downloads/calcium-25-vegetable-ornamental-msds.pdf

Calcium Chroride/Borax study: http://dergipark.gov.tr/download/article-file/119492

I understand how ridiculous the hype in the hydroponic nutrient industry is, but the highlight with Ca-25 is not that they make bold claims, it's that they specifically disclaim the use of tria.

"Calcium-25 IS NOT a triacontanol product! Period."
http://www.calcium25.com
 
Capulator

Capulator

likes to smell trees.
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I've read it, but I've also read that Ca-25 has a calcium chloride base, that borax is a decent surfactant, and that the two are synergistic to a pretty significant degree when applied together as a foliar.

Ca-25 MSDS: http://cdn.arbico-organics.com/downloads/calcium-25-vegetable-ornamental-msds.pdf

Calcium Chroride/Borax study: http://dergipark.gov.tr/download/article-file/119492

I understand how ridiculous the hype in the hydroponic nutrient industry is, but the highlight with Ca-25 is not that they make bold claims, it's that they specifically disclaim the use of tria.

"Calcium-25 IS NOT a triacontanol product! Period."
http://www.calcium25.com

look up their patent.
 
gigglegrow

gigglegrow

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1
I apply every 7-10 days if I can. a 5 gallon bucket of full concentrate tea goes a long ways, since I only add a little to each plant site. My sites are no bigger than a 3 gallon container. So If I used 4 cups per site then 4 gallons would do 16 large plants this way, or 64 1 gallon containers at a cup each. The quart containers stretch the solution even further.

Last night I used 5 gallons of tea. I dumped like half the bucket in to my MPB system for my initial bennie shock (first fill after cleaning the system). This may have been a little over kill. With the rest I watered all my veg plants pretty good with it.

My main veg table is 8x4 and is supplied with a 100 gal stock tank underneath via drippers. I change this water every 7-10 days. I add the 1 cup tea per 5 gallons the day after I do a res change. I water for 20 seconds every hour and I get very very good results in rockwool and in 50/50 coco hydroton. Doing it this way I could see the results after abotu 2 weeks. The fungi had taken over the green algae. There was lots of white and brownish fur on the tops of the cubes and the roots were INSANE.

I have no one way of doing things. I'm kind of all over the place with lots of different systems.

The good thing is it is pretty much impossible to overdo it, so I don't worry about adding too much.
Cap,

I am a first time user of the OG Biowar line. I ordered all three packs when you dropped that deal, because of all of the hype that I've heard. I am also a first-time indoor grower, as I have grown solely outdoors for 3 years now. I have finally found a small space for a 5x5 tent setup. I will be growing 4 plants and was also wondering what you would recommend transplanting them in when ready to flower, or their final pot. I was thinking a 5 gallon fabric pot.

I just bought a bag of royal gold's basement mix, and was wondering if you've ever tried this for starts, because I'm trying this for a first time as well.

From what I gather, I should sprinkle some nutes into the soil when first planting the seedling. I should then brew a tea composed of the root and foliar pack to water and foliar feed the plants, 7 days after planting, and every following 7 days. I am not sure if I read this right, because in my mind I thought that the roots would be applied first to the seedling.

Was hoping to pick up a couple tips so that I can get off to a good start. Also saw something about a product called thermx 70 I believe. Was wondering what this was for.

Also, do you use other nutrient additives, or grow solely with the og biowar line? (asides from the molasses,castings,etc.)

Best,
GG
 
Samoan

Samoan

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Cap,

I am a first time user of the OG Biowar line. I ordered all three packs when you dropped that deal, because of all of the hype that I've heard. I am also a first-time indoor grower, as I have grown solely outdoors for 3 years now. I have finally found a small space for a 5x5 tent setup. I will be growing 4 plants and was also wondering what you would recommend transplanting them in when ready to flower, or their final pot. I was thinking a 5 gallon fabric pot.

I just bought a bag of royal gold's basement mix, and was wondering if you've ever tried this for starts, because I'm trying this for a first time as well.

From what I gather, I should sprinkle some nutes into the soil when first planting the seedling. I should then brew a tea composed of the root and foliar pack to water and foliar feed the plants, 7 days after planting, and every following 7 days. I am not sure if I read this right, because in my mind I thought that the roots would be applied first to the seedling.

Was hoping to pick up a couple tips so that I can get off to a good start. Also saw something about a product called thermx 70 I believe. Was wondering what this was for.

Also, do you use other nutrient additives, or grow solely with the og biowar line? (asides from the molasses,castings,etc.)

Best,
GG
Aloha, I have a suggestion purely from my experience.

I have purchased and used the OG bio-war to establish an excellent community of extremely beneficial and diverse microbial life on my plants leaves and it's roots as well as in the medium to protect from the harmful pathogens

I had a really bad problem with Broad Mites and I strongly believe that by establishing good microbial life I was able to rid my garden of that insect that was totally killing and infecting my plants with toxins I have not seen any signs since.

"So use the biowar double strength. So 6 tablespoons per 5 gallon batch. Use this method to mix it. I only need the foliar pack . It's all I used. I use this shit all the time now. It lets nothing live on your plant. I add it to my indoor rez with nutes as well. It's the best product I've ever used to kill pests.
You will win just follow the directions for the 24 hour tea. And u have to use RO water. Tap will kill the microbes."
-Issack -Mahalo Ke Akua

@gigglegrow These are micobes that will help digest nutrients in your water making them more available for your roots to uptake.
They live on your roots and hairs and in the medium. I believe the roots actually excrete an exudate that is supposed to attract these bennifial microbes! When they are on your leaves I believe they do a similar job including the photosynthetic bacteria that are working on your plant converting light energy to chemical energy that is digested by them and ingested by plant and stomata.
-So the plan is to actually have these guys established in your medium 'Before' you even plant into it if you can
And I believe that if you let your seeds float for around 12-24 hours in the tea -just until the seed is 'imbibed' with the tea and it sinks - This may give an optimal start forming a symbiotic bennifial relationship between everyone from the beginning.
-and once you have them established you can give extra food for them in your water in the form of molasses (I use this every time I water) and water soluble seaweed kelp extract (all the trace minerals and vitamins you need) and water soluble fish hydrolysate -food for fungi (amino acids, enzymes)

Therm X70 is a "surfactant" (wetting agent, spreader designed to reduce surface tension so the water molecules are smaller and stay on the leaves and everything can be digested and consumed as well as effectively penetrate the plants surface tissues) I believe it has these thing called "saponins" -These are steroid for plant and may be antifeedant to pests because is maybe toxic and bitter in taste also may protect against bad microbes. (enhances penetration of macromolecules such as proteins through cell membranes)

I have been using Aloe Vera from the fresh plant it has saponins too. Just cut the skin out and blend it up and mix it into your foliar and even root feed. You can also just mix in a little dr. bronners unscented hemp soap or maybe olive oil to help reduce the surface tension in your foliar spray.



I use Canna Coco Coir, and Cana Coco A & B nutrient line. Specifically for the fact that the nutrient line is tailor made for the medium for optimum nutrient availability, and you do not have to transition from a "grow" nutrient base to a "bloom" nutrient base, you just switch the light cycle, and nutrient ratio. You can grow from seed to harvest using A and B alone, You may just have to add Calcium to make your "base" water before mixing in the A and B. Canna assumes that your base water is standard .3 - .4 EC or 150ppm - 200ppm. If you are using tap water just add enough to get there. Very simple. You can save money too by practicing using little water and keeping your plant feedings from 400ppm - 600ppm always with a Ph of 6.0.

A couple pro-coco theory to think about: Coco Coir is perfect for beginners and professionals alike -It is forgiving in the sense that if you do overwater or the plant does not "drink" the coco medium will always contain around 30% Oxygen. Not completely necessary, But a mix of 30% / 70% of Rice Hulls over Perlite / Coco Coir could be ideal. Coco Coir is a "soil-less" medium so you want to make sure that you have proper nutrients every time you feed/water your plants or you can effect the "buffer" leading to possible nutrient "lock-out." This makes it really easy to see the results of growth and diagnose deficiencies right away -as long as you keep in mind what they're drinking and have a keen eye.

As far as planter size I would strongly starting with this
Transplanting Using the West Coast Masters Clear Cup Method

A while back, I thought to myself: “Wouldn’t it be great if I could see through the pots to monitor the development of my clones’ roots? That would allow me to know exactly when it’s time to transplant them into bigger pots.” This led to the invention of the West Coast Masters Clear Cup Method.
It is crucially important to transplant your cuttings before their root tips dry out or they become root-bound. The health of the roots during the clone stage will determine the strength and vigor with which the plant will continue to grow. Either you transplant a cutting on time and the plant continues to thrive, or you miss it and the plant spends the next couple of weeks with hindered growth while trying to recover. The West Coast Masters Clear Cup Method allows you to view the roots, which removes the guesswork and allows you to transplant the clones at the perfect time.
10Easysteps_4.jpg

Start by cutting drainage slits around the bottom edges of both the clear and red plastic cups.
Label the red cups with the permanent marker. Include the name of the strain and the date of the transplant.
Fill the clear cups halfway with organic soil.
Sprinkle a small scoop of mycorrhizal fungi over the soil in the clear cups to help the roots quickly acclimate to their new surroundings.




After the 12oz cups I suggest planting the same way into a 1 gallon Fabric Smart Pot -Make sure to invest into the smart pot over a generic fabric pot because the quality is MUCH better.

Once plant starts to fill out the 1 gallon I would suggest planting into a 5 or 7 gallon smart pot and keeping it in veg until it you can feel that it is starting to get nicely established into the new medium and is exhibiting nice new growth -Thats when you want to switch the light cycle and let her go into the transitioning phase where the most plant and root growth will happen and really let her get well established into her final home. This rapid growth phase known as the "stretch" may last 2-3 weeks while you start to see her exhibiting pre flowers and you will see where all the bud sites will be

I hope some of this this helps you @gigglegrow feel free to ask me any question I will do my best to help you from what I know -Aloha
 
gigglegrow

gigglegrow

3
1
Aloha, I have a suggestion purely from my experience.

I have purchased and used the OG bio-war to establish an excellent community of extremely beneficial and diverse microbial life on my plants leaves and it's roots as well as in the medium to protect from the harmful pathogens

I had a really bad problem with Broad Mites and I strongly believe that by establishing good microbial life I was able to rid my garden of that insect that was totally killing and infecting my plants with toxins I have not seen any signs since.

"So use the biowar double strength. So 6 tablespoons per 5 gallon batch. Use this method to mix it. I only need the foliar pack . It's all I used. I use this shit all the time now. It lets nothing live on your plant. I add it to my indoor rez with nutes as well. It's the best product I've ever used to kill pests.
You will win just follow the directions for the 24 hour tea. And u have to use RO water. Tap will kill the microbes."
-Issack -Mahalo Ke Akua

@gigglegrow These are micobes that will help digest nutrients in your water making them more available for your roots to uptake.
They live on your roots and hairs and in the medium. I believe the roots actually excrete an exudate that is supposed to attract these bennifial microbes! When they are on your leaves I believe they do a similar job including the photosynthetic bacteria that are working on your plant converting light energy to chemical energy that is digested by them and ingested by plant and stomata.
-So the plan is to actually have these guys established in your medium 'Before' you even plant into it if you can
And I believe that if you let your seeds float for around 12-24 hours in the tea -just until the seed is 'imbibed' with the tea and it sinks - This may give an optimal start forming a symbiotic bennifial relationship between everyone from the beginning.
-and once you have them established you can give extra food for them in your water in the form of molasses (I use this every time I water) and water soluble seaweed kelp extract (all the trace minerals and vitamins you need) and water soluble fish hydrolysate -food for fungi (amino acids, enzymes)

Therm X70 is a "surfactant" (wetting agent, spreader designed to reduce surface tension so the water molecules are smaller and stay on the leaves and everything can be digested and consumed as well as effectively penetrate the plants surface tissues) I believe it has these thing called "saponins" -These are steroid for plant and may be antifeedant to pests because is maybe toxic and bitter in taste also may protect against bad microbes. (enhances penetration of macromolecules such as proteins through cell membranes)

I have been using Aloe Vera from the fresh plant it has saponins too. Just cut the skin out and blend it up and mix it into your foliar and even root feed. You can also just mix in a little dr. bronners unscented hemp soap or maybe olive oil to help reduce the surface tension in your foliar spray.



I use Canna Coco Coir, and Cana Coco A & B nutrient line. Specifically for the fact that the nutrient line is tailor made for the medium for optimum nutrient availability, and you do not have to transition from a "grow" nutrient base to a "bloom" nutrient base, you just switch the light cycle, and nutrient ratio. You can grow from seed to harvest using A and B alone, You may just have to add Calcium to make your "base" water before mixing in the A and B. Canna assumes that your base water is standard .3 - .4 EC or 150ppm - 200ppm. If you are using tap water just add enough to get there. Very simple. You can save money too by practicing using little water and keeping your plant feedings from 400ppm - 600ppm always with a Ph of 6.0.

A couple pro-coco theory to think about: Coco Coir is perfect for beginners and professionals alike -It is forgiving in the sense that if you do overwater or the plant does not "drink" the coco medium will always contain around 30% Oxygen. Not completely necessary, But a mix of 30% / 70% of Rice Hulls over Perlite / Coco Coir could be ideal. Coco Coir is a "soil-less" medium so you want to make sure that you have proper nutrients every time you feed/water your plants or you can effect the "buffer" leading to possible nutrient "lock-out." This makes it really easy to see the results of growth and diagnose deficiencies right away -as long as you keep in mind what they're drinking and have a keen eye.

As far as planter size I would strongly starting with this
Transplanting Using the West Coast Masters Clear Cup Method

A while back, I thought to myself: “Wouldn’t it be great if I could see through the pots to monitor the development of my clones’ roots? That would allow me to know exactly when it’s time to transplant them into bigger pots.” This led to the invention of the West Coast Masters Clear Cup Method.
It is crucially important to transplant your cuttings before their root tips dry out or they become root-bound. The health of the roots during the clone stage will determine the strength and vigor with which the plant will continue to grow. Either you transplant a cutting on time and the plant continues to thrive, or you miss it and the plant spends the next couple of weeks with hindered growth while trying to recover. The West Coast Masters Clear Cup Method allows you to view the roots, which removes the guesswork and allows you to transplant the clones at the perfect time.
10Easysteps_4.jpg

Start by cutting drainage slits around the bottom edges of both the clear and red plastic cups.
Label the red cups with the permanent marker. Include the name of the strain and the date of the transplant.
Fill the clear cups halfway with organic soil.
Sprinkle a small scoop of mycorrhizal fungi over the soil in the clear cups to help the roots quickly acclimate to their new surroundings.




After the 12oz cups I suggest planting the same way into a 1 gallon Fabric Smart Pot -Make sure to invest into the smart pot over a generic fabric pot because the quality is MUCH better.

Once plant starts to fill out the 1 gallon I would suggest planting into a 5 or 7 gallon smart pot and keeping it in veg until it you can feel that it is starting to get nicely established into the new medium and is exhibiting nice new growth -Thats when you want to switch the light cycle and let her go into the transitioning phase where the most plant and root growth will happen and really let her get well established into her final home. This rapid growth phase known as the "stretch" may last 2-3 weeks while you start to see her exhibiting pre flowers and you will see where all the bud sites will be

I hope some of this this helps you @gigglegrow feel free to ask me any question I will do my best to help you from what I know -Aloha
You literally just answered so many questions. Can't say thank you enough for the detail and time in the reply! My seeds' taproots just started peeking out of their shell today, so I will be planting them within 2-3 days, maybe even tomorrow! If you want to follow my grow, and suggest things along the way, it would be greatly appreciated! My insta is @gigglegrow.

I guess the only question I am left with now is that, do you consider RO water only effective with a reverse osmosis system? Or do you consider an air stone in the water sufficient enough? Outdoors, I usually just fill the water up into a trash can (only for water of course) and let it sit in the sun for a day. I then use the water the next day, and fill it up again in the morning. I am growing in a basement, and don't have a very great watering system right now, I was planning on starting in a 5 gallon bucket and just using an air stone to oxygenate the water. I was seeing if you had any tips on this. I will probably start the seeds out into plastic cups (clear now, thanks for that tip!) and then proceed to the 1 and 5 gallon smart pots. I was initially going to do this anyway, except go straight from the cup to the 5.

You rock Samoan!

-GG
 
Samoan

Samoan

260
43
You literally just answered so many questions. Can't say thank you enough for the detail and time in the reply! My seeds' taproots just started peeking out of their shell today, so I will be planting them within 2-3 days, maybe even tomorrow! If you want to follow my grow, and suggest things along the way, it would be greatly appreciated! My insta is @gigglegrow.

I guess the only question I am left with now is that, do you consider RO water only effective with a reverse osmosis system? Or do you consider an air stone in the water sufficient enough? Outdoors, I usually just fill the water up into a trash can (only for water of course) and let it sit in the sun for a day. I then use the water the next day, and fill it up again in the morning. I am growing in a basement, and don't have a very great watering system right now, I was planning on starting in a 5 gallon bucket and just using an air stone to oxygenate the water. I was seeing if you had any tips on this. I will probably start the seeds out into plastic cups (clear now, thanks for that tip!) and then proceed to the 1 and 5 gallon smart pots. I was initially going to do this anyway, except go straight from the cup to the 5.

You rock Samoan!

-GG
I started out using only r/o water, mainly because there is no chlorine and also so I had clean water to add my nutrients - I wanted to learn how to add everything in properly and record the change in ppm and ph with each additive getting a feel for how strong each is. This was helpful but it was a total pain once my plants were needing a lot of water, first I would fill them up in r/o at the store, then I invested in a r/o filter that was not very effective....after much frustration I finally just started using my tap and letting it sit out for 24 hours to "off-gass" the chlorine. Finally, I heard you can bubble out chlorine quicker if use an airstone and you have plenty oxygen in your water which is awesome.


I now have a 20 gal trash can that I put a spigot on, and I bubble air through the water for at least a day before use. The only problem is there is possibly some cal and mag and others present in the water and I don't know exactly how much yet as I haven't gotten an analysis of my tap yet. Someone told me that whats already in the tap usually the molecules are too large to be uptake by roots. So you may just want to start by bringing your water to around 200ppm and watching your plants to see if they need more cal/mag.

going from the cup to the 5 gal will make your life MUCH easier...I have read that plants like to stay in smaller container before root bound but I have honestly noticed much bigger plants grow quicker that way I think it makes sense more room for roots = faster growth IF they are ready to grow. bigger roots = bigger plants and bigger flowers! If you only will have 4 in a 5X5 you might think about going with 7gal?

My tap is around 150ppm and I found that I had to add to bring it up to around 300ppm and my plants looked good. So I figure some of that initial 150ppm may not even be available to the plant.

I mix in this order -> silica, cal/mag, part a, part b, kelp, fish, molasses -> Ph @ 6.0
 
Samoan

Samoan

260
43
I have been running the bubble snake kit it is ideal if you will be brewing in a 5 gal bucket a lot. It comes with a 951GPH air pump is more than enough air for 5 gal works well in my 20 gal. everything in the kit when you price them separately
I started out using only r/o water, mainly because there is no chlorine and also so I had clean water to add my nutrients - I wanted to learn how to add everything in properly and record the change in ppm and ph with each additive getting a feel for how strong each is. This was helpful but it was a total pain once my plants were needing a lot of water, first I would fill them up in r/o at the store, then I invested in a r/o filter that was not very effective....after much frustration I finally just started using my tap and letting it sit out for 24 hours to "off-gass" the chlorine. Finally, I heard you can bubble out chlorine quicker if use an airstone and you have plenty oxygen in your water which is awesome.


I now have a 20 gal trash can that I put a spigot on, and I bubble air through the water for at least a day before use. The only problem is there is possibly some cal and mag and others present in the water and I don't know exactly how much yet as I haven't gotten an analysis of my tap yet. Someone told me that whats already in the tap usually the molecules are too large to be uptake by roots. So you may just want to start by bringing your water to around 200ppm and watching your plants to see if they need more cal/mag.

going from the cup to the 5 gal will make your life MUCH easier...I have read that plants like to stay in smaller container before root bound but I have honestly noticed much bigger plants grow quicker that way I think it makes sense more room for roots = faster growth IF they are ready to grow. bigger roots = bigger plants and bigger flowers! If you only will have 4 in a 5X5 you might think about going with 7gal?

My tap is around 150ppm and I found that I had to add to bring it up to around 300ppm and my plants looked good. So I figure some of that initial 150ppm may not even be available to the plant.

I mix in this order -> silica, cal/mag, part a, part b, kelp, fish, molasses -> Ph @ 6.0
 
Fullsizeoutput d9
Samoan

Samoan

260
43
I have been running the bubble snake kit it is ideal if you will be brewing in a 5 gal bucket a lot. It comes with a 951GPH air pump is more than enough air for 5 gal works well in my 20 gal. everything in the kit when you price them separately
I thought was worth it because it is really easy to clean and the compost bag that it comes with is very nice, very strong much better than cheaping out with pantyhose.
https://www.amazon.com/Compost-Tea-...ncoding=UTF8&refRID=D8JH5CP5P5PNHE1Y2HMV&th=1
 
Samoan

Samoan

260
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These plants were all transplanted to 1 gallon fabric pots, except for the one on the back left went int a 5 gallon bucket, it grew much quicker, and had bigger branches with more budsites. this is a 4x4x6 with a 400w mh
 
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