Aloha, I have a suggestion purely from my experience.
I have purchased and used the OG bio-war to establish an excellent community of extremely beneficial and diverse microbial life on my plants leaves and it's roots as well as in the medium to protect from the harmful pathogens
I had a really bad problem with Broad Mites and I strongly believe that by establishing good microbial life I was able to rid my garden of that insect that was totally killing and infecting my plants with toxins I have not seen any signs since.
"So use the biowar double strength. So 6 tablespoons per 5 gallon batch. Use this method to mix it. I only need the foliar pack . It's all I used. I use this shit all the time now. It lets nothing live on your plant. I add it to my indoor rez with nutes as well. It's the best product I've ever used to kill pests.
You will win just follow the directions for the 24 hour tea. And u have to use RO water. Tap will kill the microbes."
-Issack -Mahalo Ke Akua
@gigglegrow These are micobes that will help digest nutrients in your water making them more available for your roots to uptake.
They live on your roots and hairs and in the medium. I believe the roots actually excrete an exudate that is supposed to attract these bennifial microbes! When they are on your leaves I believe they do a similar job including the photosynthetic bacteria that are working on your plant converting light energy to chemical energy that is digested by them and ingested by plant and stomata.
-So the plan is to actually have these guys established in your medium 'Before' you even plant into it if you can
And I believe that if you let your seeds float for around 12-24 hours in the tea -just until the seed is 'imbibed' with the tea and it sinks - This may give an optimal start forming a symbiotic bennifial relationship between everyone from the beginning.
-and once you have them established you can give extra food for them in your water in the form of molasses (I use this every time I water) and water soluble seaweed kelp extract (all the trace minerals and vitamins you need) and water soluble fish hydrolysate -food for fungi (amino acids, enzymes)
Therm X70 is a "surfactant" (wetting agent, spreader designed to reduce surface tension so the water molecules are smaller and stay on the leaves and everything can be digested and consumed as well as effectively penetrate the plants surface tissues) I believe it has these thing called "saponins" -These are steroid for plant and may be antifeedant to pests because is maybe toxic and bitter in taste also may protect against bad microbes. (enhances penetration of macromolecules such as proteins through cell membranes)
I have been using Aloe Vera from the fresh plant it has saponins too. Just cut the skin out and blend it up and mix it into your foliar and even root feed. You can also just mix in a little dr. bronners unscented hemp soap or maybe olive oil to help reduce the surface tension in your foliar spray.
I use
Canna Coco Coir, and Cana Coco A & B nutrient line. Specifically for the fact that the nutrient line is tailor made for the medium for optimum nutrient availability, and you do not have to transition from a "grow" nutrient base to a "bloom" nutrient base, you just switch the light cycle, and nutrient ratio. You can grow from seed to harvest using A and B alone, You may just have to add Calcium to make your "base" water before mixing in the A and B. Canna assumes that your base water is standard .3 - .4 EC or 150ppm - 200ppm. If you are using tap water just add enough to get there. Very simple. You can save money too by practicing using little water and keeping your plant feedings from 400ppm - 600ppm always with a Ph of 6.0.
A couple pro-coco theory to think about: Coco Coir is perfect for beginners and professionals alike -It is forgiving in the sense that if you do overwater or the plant does not "drink" the coco medium will always contain around 30% Oxygen. Not completely necessary, But a mix of 30% / 70% of Rice Hulls over Perlite / Coco Coir could be ideal. Coco Coir is a "soil-less" medium so you want to make sure that you have proper nutrients every time you feed/water your plants or you can effect the "buffer" leading to possible nutrient "lock-out." This makes it really easy to see the results of growth and diagnose deficiencies right away -as long as you keep in mind what they're drinking and have a keen eye.
As far as planter size I would strongly starting with this
Transplanting Using the West Coast Masters Clear Cup Method
A while back, I thought to myself: “Wouldn’t it be great if I could see through the pots to monitor the development of my clones’ roots? That would allow me to know exactly when it’s time to transplant them into bigger pots.” This led to the invention of the West Coast Masters Clear Cup Method.
It is crucially important to transplant your cuttings before their root tips dry out or they become root-bound. The health of the roots during the clone stage will determine the strength and vigor with which the plant will continue to grow. Either you transplant a cutting on time and the plant continues to thrive, or you miss it and the plant spends the next couple of weeks with hindered growth while trying to recover. The West Coast Masters Clear Cup Method allows you to view the roots, which removes the guesswork and allows you to transplant the clones at the perfect time.
Start by cutting drainage slits around the bottom edges of both the clear and red plastic cups.
Label the red cups with the permanent marker. Include the name of the strain and the date of the transplant.
Fill the clear cups halfway with organic soil.
Sprinkle a small scoop of mycorrhizal fungi over the soil in the clear cups to help the roots quickly acclimate to their new surroundings.
After the 12oz cups I suggest planting the same way into a 1 gallon Fabric Smart Pot -Make sure to invest into the smart pot over a generic fabric pot because the quality is MUCH better.
Once plant starts to fill out the 1 gallon I would suggest planting into a 5 or 7 gallon smart pot and keeping it in veg until it you can feel that it is starting to get nicely established into the new medium and is exhibiting nice new growth -Thats when you want to switch the light cycle and let her go into the transitioning phase where the most plant and root growth will happen and really let her get well established into her final home. This rapid growth phase known as the "stretch" may last 2-3 weeks while you start to see her exhibiting pre flowers and you will see where all the bud sites will be
I hope some of this this helps you @gigglegrow feel free to ask me any question I will do my best to help you from what I know -Aloha