oldskol4evr
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the potassium bicarbonate,does the heat effect it,the calcium nitrate is hard to disolve and seems like it seperates in the can
oldskol4evr
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damn great haul,im stuck in a 2x4x5 tent hahahah solo cups to transplant into 1 ga,keeping small and single top is what im after ninja run ,hahaha
basscaptain
- 5,275
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So now this is where I'm going to need alot more HELP :(
oldskol4evr
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what up
Aqua Man
- 26,480
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Nah its easily dissolved
basscaptain
- 5,275
- 313
ok the way you all talk about there feed.... man I feel like I need to go back to school... I'm into simple fish tank water/ lawn weed & feed and etc...
with that said, i have watch a lot of videos on this and it doesn't help me..... I'm a hands on person........ ( sry but I really have NO school so I learn by just doing) so I got some stuff that I really want to use up.... and need to find/figure how and what i can use of the stuff I got from MBFerts , I'm using it in the vegs and I have a good idea how to use it out there but I have no idea what all these ### mean......
so I have a lot of these 2........
Haifa Cal - Calcium Nitrate Greenhouse Grade Fertilizer-Calmag ingredient composition is approximately:
If you take (1) gallon of R.O. water and add (1) gram of Haifa Cal - Calcium Nitrate Greenhouse Grade Fertilizer-Calmag ingredient you would have 41ppm (N) Nitrogen and 50ppm (Ca) Calcium in solution.
Calcium is essential to proper development of the membrane that binds the cells together into a cohesive unit. BER is the final expression of an unbalanced interaction between the rate of fruit growth and the internal distribution of calcium towards the susceptible tissue in the fruit. (Adams and Ho, 1992).
Haifa Cal - Calcium Nitrate Greenhouse Grade Fertilizer-Calmag ingredient Product Analysis:
Haifa MKP Mono Potassium Phosphate BLOOM Booster Fertilizer Nutrient composition is approximately:
If you take (1) gallon of R.O. water and add (1) gram of Haifa MKP | Mono Potassium Phosphate BLOOM Booster Fertilizer you would have 60ppm (P) Phosphorus and 75ppm (K) Potassium in solution.
Haifa MKP Mono Potassium Phosphate BLOOM Booster Fertilizer Product Analysis:
I also have some of this
Ultrasol Magnum P 44 Urea Phosphate 18-44-0 Fertilizer Nutrient composition is approximately:
If you take (1) gallon of R.O. water and add (1) gram of Ultrasol Magnum P 44 Urea Phosphate 18-44-0 Fertilizer you would have (48)ppm NH4 Nitrogen and 51ppm (P) Phosphorus in solution.
Ultrasol Magnum P 44 Urea Phosphate 18-44-0 Fertilizer Product Analysis:
Allganic Nitrogen | OMRI Organic Nitrate of Soda Prill | 16-0-0 Fertilizer Nutrient composition is approximately:
If you take (1) gallon of R.O. water and add (1) gram of Haifa MKP | Mono Potassium Phosphate BLOOM Booster Fertilizer you would have 43ppm (N) Nitrate in solution.
so I need to know what I should use lol
with that said, i have watch a lot of videos on this and it doesn't help me..... I'm a hands on person........ ( sry but I really have NO school so I learn by just doing) so I got some stuff that I really want to use up.... and need to find/figure how and what i can use of the stuff I got from MBFerts , I'm using it in the vegs and I have a good idea how to use it out there but I have no idea what all these ### mean......
so I have a lot of these 2........
Haifa Cal - Calcium Nitrate Greenhouse Grade Fertilizer-Calmag ingredient composition is approximately:
Nitrogen:
N as N03 = 14.4%
N-NH4 = 1.1%
Total N = 15.5%
Calcium:
Ca = 19%
N as N03 = 14.4%
N-NH4 = 1.1%
Total N = 15.5%
Calcium:
Ca = 19%
If you take (1) gallon of R.O. water and add (1) gram of Haifa Cal - Calcium Nitrate Greenhouse Grade Fertilizer-Calmag ingredient you would have 41ppm (N) Nitrogen and 50ppm (Ca) Calcium in solution.
Calcium is essential to proper development of the membrane that binds the cells together into a cohesive unit. BER is the final expression of an unbalanced interaction between the rate of fruit growth and the internal distribution of calcium towards the susceptible tissue in the fruit. (Adams and Ho, 1992).
Haifa Cal - Calcium Nitrate Greenhouse Grade Fertilizer-Calmag ingredient Product Analysis:
| Analyte | Unit | Min | Max | Typical |
| Appearance | White Granules | |||
| Total Nitrogen (as NO3) | % | 13.5 | - | 14.4 |
| Total Nitrogen (as NH4) | % | - | 1.6 | 1.1 |
| Total Nitrogen | % | 14.6 | - | 15.5 |
| Total Calcium (as Ca) | % | 18.0 | - | 19.0 |
| Insoluble Matter | % | - | 0.1 | 0.03 |
| pH (10% solution) | 4.0 | 8.0 | 5.5 | |
| Bulk density | g/cm3 | 1.1 |
Haifa MKP Mono Potassium Phosphate BLOOM Booster Fertilizer Nutrient composition is approximately:
Potassium:
K = 28.7%
K2O = 34%
Phosphorus:
P = 22.7%
P2O5 = 52%
K = 28.7%
K2O = 34%
Phosphorus:
P = 22.7%
P2O5 = 52%
If you take (1) gallon of R.O. water and add (1) gram of Haifa MKP | Mono Potassium Phosphate BLOOM Booster Fertilizer you would have 60ppm (P) Phosphorus and 75ppm (K) Potassium in solution.
Haifa MKP Mono Potassium Phosphate BLOOM Booster Fertilizer Product Analysis:
| Analyte | Unit | Min | Max | Typical |
| Appearance | White crystalline powder | |||
| Total Phosphorus (as P2O5)) | % | 51.5 | - | 52% |
| Total Phosphorus (as P) | % | 22.5 | - | 22.7% |
| Total Potassium (as K2 O) | % | 34 | - | 34.5% |
| Total Potassium (as K) | % | 28.3 | - | 28.7% |
| Loss on Drying | % | - | 0.2 | <0.1 |
| pH (1% solution) | - | 4.2 | 4.9 | 4.5 |
| Bulk density | g/ml | 0.9 | 1.4 | 1.2 |
I also have some of this
Ultrasol Magnum P 44 Urea Phosphate 18-44-0 Fertilizer Nutrient composition is approximately:
Nitrogen:
N-NH4 = 18%
Total N = 18%
Phosphorus:
P = 19.2%
P2O5 = 44%
N-NH4 = 18%
Total N = 18%
Phosphorus:
P = 19.2%
P2O5 = 44%
If you take (1) gallon of R.O. water and add (1) gram of Ultrasol Magnum P 44 Urea Phosphate 18-44-0 Fertilizer you would have (48)ppm NH4 Nitrogen and 51ppm (P) Phosphorus in solution.
Ultrasol Magnum P 44 Urea Phosphate 18-44-0 Fertilizer Product Analysis:
| Analyte | Unit | Min | Max | Typical |
| Appearance | White Crystals | |||
| Total Phosphorus (as P2O5)) | % | 44 | 44 | 44% |
| Total Phosphorus (as P) | % | 19.2 | 19.2 | 19.2% |
| Total Nitrogen (N-NH4) | % | 17.5 | 18 | 18% |
| Moisture | % | - | - | <0.3% |
| Insoluble Matter | % | - | 0.2 | <0.2 |
| pH (.5% solution) | 2.75 |
Allganic Nitrogen | OMRI Organic Nitrate of Soda Prill | 16-0-0 Fertilizer Nutrient composition is approximately:
Nitrogen:
Nitrate= 16%
Nitrate= 16%
If you take (1) gallon of R.O. water and add (1) gram of Haifa MKP | Mono Potassium Phosphate BLOOM Booster Fertilizer you would have 43ppm (N) Nitrate in solution.
so I need to know what I should use lol
Aqua Man
- 26,480
- 638
Ok first No3=nitrates, No4=ammonia Both are forms of nitrogen. Ammonia can burn plants in higher doses and needs denitrifying bacteria to break it down into the safer for plants nitrates although plants will uptake ammonia no problem. Also ammonia not good to use in hydroponics as almost all systems lack the denitrifying bacteria to break it down.
Monopotassium phosphate is what is the base ingredient for bloom boosters. Not needed until flower. The base element is immediately available. For example Total phosphorus may not all be available immediately for uptake by the plants it depends on the form (see your chart P205). The amount of basic element P (see your chart) will be immediately available.
If you download hydrobuddy. It may help ya figure out a recipe. I can look at this closer when I get home. Hopefully by then someone with more knowledge pops in since I'm self taught over the years and forget quite a bit since I stopped making my own.
oldskol4evr
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im still half asleep,when i wake i give you hand,one thing for sure and it just me,i would stir away from urea
Aqua Man
- 26,480
- 638
100% agree. I would keep urea under 5% in soil and none on hydro. I should have made it clear for basscaptain urea is ammonia
basscaptain
- 5,275
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I don't need this today at all... I just have this stuff and would like to use it at some point, If I can't use some it's ok.... I don't have alot of $$$$ in all of it....
also the only to thing In have use would be the 1st 2 cause I did buy ALOT.... Didn't reailze at the time a gram to a gal... :( and sense I'm out here I was just stocking up on stuff I was thinking I may need
I also got this but didn't want to use it till next yr......
MB Secret Sauce | HORMONE AND VITAMIN BOOSTER | VEG and BLOOM | MBFerts Bulk Wholesale Hydroponic Equipment Dealer
MB Secret Sauce | HORMONE AND VITAMIN BOOSTER | VEG and BLOOM MB Hormone and Vitamin Booster is used to BOOST the hormones in your plants to make them achieve larger growth, greener plants, more trichome, and much more. THIS IS THE VEG and BLOOM Formula. Used in Veg and FLOWER stages!!! We offer...
basscaptain
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ok here the deal on the 1 & 2 I have around 30lbs of each
#3 I have 5lbs
#4 1lb or maybe 5lbs I forget what I got
and just 1 qt of the MB Secret Sauce cause the price was so good I had to get 1
also I'm just mixing this right now in a gal jag and into like a sparyer that you hook up to a hose for the grass
Good afternoon Boys:)
#3 I have 5lbs
#4 1lb or maybe 5lbs I forget what I got
and just 1 qt of the MB Secret Sauce cause the price was so good I had to get 1
also I'm just mixing this right now in a gal jag and into like a sparyer that you hook up to a hose for the grass
Good afternoon Boys:)
Last edited:
oldskol4evr
- 12,306
- 438
ok so let try this,
so what you want to achieve has to have a balance,youve heard me mention saturation exchange rates right,ok so any plant has to have a balance in the P and K side,so flowering or fruit plants have to have more K than P but both are important for the exchange, so for flower i would keep P rate at half what K rate is,for the cal and mag exchange,calcium is most important but needs magnese to exchange properly.
this is reason why you always here cal-mag,only thing is,there not isolated you may only need the mag to bring that back to proper exchange right,65% exchange is the number,for strong and vigurouse roots and stem development and proper tissue,example my fert is a rating on bag of 8-16-36, to have exchange 36 you split the 36 in half for the P which is half of 36,then same for N half what P is.
really doesnt matter if it 25-50-100,just saying they have to be split to exchange. ok that is a soil base and even for say cooking soil mixture,when that base is ready avaiable from time working into the soil,the rates of your feed drop big time ,it already in the soil so water is all that needed.you probally not getting what im saying.
so if your using something like peat moss you will feed it a higher N in veg ,split the P in half nd then split the K in half of your P,your keeping a balance right,just backwards of the flowering and fruiting,it still balanced.
so veg example 20-10-5
flowering fruiting cycle 5-10-20
see what i mean balanced and the saturation exchange stays in check
so those ferts you have giggle the number to work out this way,i would stay away from the urea,im not sure of the prill,the m-p-k ive heard of,but folks are using this to boast there plant in flower and for all the frost,all good as long as the balance isnt interupted
damn im still asleep hope you understand kinda what im saying,no lab coat here just working with what i have leads me to using whats avaible,as long as you keep balance you got it,next time you go and look at bag soil,go past the N-P-K label and go down and look at exchange rate you will see most of the bag is 65% for saturation exchange,pink floyd screaming in my ear this morn out of coffee need a cig be back in a bit hahahah,just jabber you probally got lost way back hahahh
Aqua Man
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@oldskol4evr has it covered. Ratios are the key and adjusting one element can cause issues with another. This includes mpk or pk boosters in flower. While the plants may benefit slightly from the addition of pk boost the chances of doing more harm by changing the ratios is not worth it until you get a few grows in and can slowly dial it in. High phosphorus is deadly to plants so in my opinion I would not try to do to much as far as nutrients until you have a good base to work with and see how the plants are reacting. All these extra additives often do more harm than good.
I would concentrate on a NPK and cal mag ratios. Micros should not be an issue. After a crop or 2 you can try tweeking things to see if it improves or hurts your grow but without a base to compare it's not worth the risk
I would concentrate on a NPK and cal mag ratios. Micros should not be an issue. After a crop or 2 you can try tweeking things to see if it improves or hurts your grow but without a base to compare it's not worth the risk
oldskol4evr
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damn i glad you made sense of all that hahahah,very correct,all i mentioned was a soil base,not avaiblity,with the balance in the soil,you know you have it,it cooked in,when adding ferts manufactures suggest and they really cant unless they recomend the soil base there using,that why you start out with 1/4 of what they recomend ,you will see the plant respond and then you move up from there,all my plants you will see a tip burn,this is how i know im on the edge of the world and dont want to fall off hahahah,when i get the tip burn a day or so after i cut that tip off and bump it up one more quarter,no burn okay,give it week and bump up,get burn ,stay there for a week cut burn tips off and carry on,ive never got to what manufactures recomend usally 3/4 strength,this is with bag soil though,now this run i got con into gonna be my soil mix,im curiouse if it will do a grow,with my meds i always use ocean forest,depending on how many come up,i might do a side by side of ocean and my mix,that way if my mix is to hot i can at least get some from the ocean,iknow that for a fact vs what if
oldskol4evr
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all of these pretty much for flowers,odd there is no mention of availibilty,you have mobile and non mobile ,the mobile is what the plant gets right wen you feed,non mobile is what stays in the soil it becomes mobile over time,now the calcium nitrate looks good for veg cycle though i would cut it back by half 2 weeks before flower,but drop it down just like raising the feed in the begining a little at a time over the 2 weeks
oldskol4evr
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- 438
mind music hahahah,i cannot rhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4oh7lct04Usead or concentrate unless i have 2 things going
Jimster
Supporter
- 2,770
- 263
We have a ton of old coal mines locally and have the issues with the sulfur smell and things turning orange. The problem isn't so much the high levels of iron as it is the acidity that comes from the mine runoff. The sulfur combines with water, making sulfuric acid. The sulfuric acid acidifies the local creeks and rivers, causing them to look orange. The orange color actually comes from the rusted iron, not high iron levels. The acidity oxidized the iron into iron oxide, better known as rust. A Ph of 4 is pretty acidic.
A lot of folks confuse this with high iron levels, but the levels are pretty normal... it's the acidity that causes the problems.
oldskol4evr
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okay a bit more awake and found my notes
for soil
calcium is most important
need at least 65% no more than 80%
magnesium
least 12% for heavy soil max 18-20% for light soil
hydrogen so if hydrogen is 0% ph of soil is 7 and above
you need 2-10% hydrogen for soil 6.3 -6
sodium
less than 1%
potassium
4 - 8%
all this is what your soil should test out to before NPK even fall into the picture,this can be acheived with saturation exchange test,once all these fall inline then you add what ever mix you got to feed with ,you notice Nitrogen isnt even in this picture right,that were your NPK values come in and balance come to play.
said and done,you have 65%-12%-6%-6%= 89%,that leaves 11% for Nitrogen ,you dig what im saying cornbread.
so that said if you have complete useless soil and build it to these numbers in soil you can grow anything,they all move when needed in the plant life,so a real need for feed isnt really there unless your in water and it has it own ratios.
after you harvest you then can get same test done and it will tell you per acre how much of what you need and was used up by your crop,digum,ya i done lost your ass hahahah wake my ass up to a bunch damn math again hahahahh
for soil
calcium is most important
need at least 65% no more than 80%
magnesium
least 12% for heavy soil max 18-20% for light soil
hydrogen so if hydrogen is 0% ph of soil is 7 and above
you need 2-10% hydrogen for soil 6.3 -6
sodium
less than 1%
potassium
4 - 8%
all this is what your soil should test out to before NPK even fall into the picture,this can be acheived with saturation exchange test,once all these fall inline then you add what ever mix you got to feed with ,you notice Nitrogen isnt even in this picture right,that were your NPK values come in and balance come to play.
said and done,you have 65%-12%-6%-6%= 89%,that leaves 11% for Nitrogen ,you dig what im saying cornbread.
so that said if you have complete useless soil and build it to these numbers in soil you can grow anything,they all move when needed in the plant life,so a real need for feed isnt really there unless your in water and it has it own ratios.
after you harvest you then can get same test done and it will tell you per acre how much of what you need and was used up by your crop,digum,ya i done lost your ass hahahah wake my ass up to a bunch damn math again hahahahh
basscaptain
- 5,275
- 313
you must live next door ,,, now that i talked to a few old timers what you just said is what I live in........
basscaptain
- 5,275
- 313
no I got you Old School, you write/talk like my mind works :)
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