How To Properly Root And Veg In The Uc

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LeroyB

4
1
I'm considering building my own system similar to this, one question though, most systems I see have the plants very close, I'd rather have them a bit more apart since I have the room, is there a restriction in water flow if they're further apart given a good water pump?
 
greengiant42

greengiant42

17
3
Phase 3: Vegatative (7-10 days)

The vegetative phase is essentially a repeat of the pre-veg phase with the addition of a third part. Preveged plants are placed at the bottom of the UC baskets, on top of about 1.5 inches of hydroton, and then the basket is filled the rest of the way with it as well. It is important to remember that if the water level in the UC drops below the bottom of the basket, there is the risk of root death which initiate the onset of rot in the system.

Once the plants are in place we turn on the dripper system until the roots have grown significantly into the baskets. If you have not added a dripper/recirculator to your UC you have the option of hand watering the baskets no less then 3 times per day and can be watered as often as every 2 hours.

Part I: (2-4 days)

The initial veg profile again is Dynabloom @4-5 ml/gal and 29% H2o2 @1 ml/gal, pHed to 5.3. This profile is ran until root growth extends into the UC buckets AND encircle the entire basket.

Part II: (2-4 days)

After the baskets are fully encircled with roots the profile is modified with the addition of Cal-mag @3 ml/gal and pH over 5.7. Again focus is shifted from root growth to shoot growth and when “explosive” growth onsets its time for a rezz change.

Part III (2-4 days)

New rezz means a new profile, and it looks something like this:

Cal-mag @ 3-4 ml/gal
H&G A @ 4-5 ml/gal
H&G B @ 4-5 ml/gal
Epsom @ 1 g/gal
H2o2 @ 2 ml/gal
pH to 5.4

This profile and the rezz its contained in can be ran right up to, and throughout the first part of flower. It is very important not to over veg these plants, as the UC can easily triple the size of them during the flower period. Management of the pH and EC will be posted in a few days.

Pics are at 7 days in the UC/phase 3 (they will be flowered at day 10):

Also on day 7 the plants were topped and defoliated (pruned) which, other then profiles will be the most important technique used for the rest of these plants life cycles. More info on pruning can be found here:




If you wish to see the plants in the pics all the way through to harvest you can find them here:
Hey DS I love ur work! Enough that I am trying to copy cat what u do!!! I am running AN conni a & b and was wondering if epsome salts are suitable to run with their line and if u by any chance know what else it replaces other than their Bud Factor-X?
 
johnnyrex

johnnyrex

429
28
Nope, no domes, mats, or conditioning...

Just soak the cube in iba and ionic and plug the bitches in...

Hey Q9 want to know how much do you dilute IBA to the ionic grow to soak your rockwool I would like to try it to get my rooting time on point still having issues making my cuts strike in less than 10 days thanks once again
 
johnnyrex

johnnyrex

429
28
hey man, what is top of rezz? is it a nute?

Hey vangs a top off Rez is a extra reservoir that one sets up cause the UC drinks up so much water as the UC drinks the extra Rez or top off Rez fill back what the system drank
 
vangs

vangs

631
63
Hey vangs a top off Rez is a extra reservoir that one sets up cause the UC drinks up so much water as the UC drinks the extra Rez or top off Rez fill back what the system drank
it basiclly fills the epicenter correct? so its constantly full?
 
4

420ACTECH

6
1
Hey DS was wondering if the h2o2 kills the enzymes in H & G? Just curious because I also run hg and was told not to run h2o2 because It is a enzyme based nutrient.
 
Stomata

Stomata

8
3
Hello Desert Squirrel and everybody else
FIrst off thanks for all of your info -- I have an issue I rooted and veged my whole crop -- everything working great good healthy roots nice veg up above, here is where things went wrong during the transplant in the pots and then into the system -- the water level was a little too low and my nicely veged crop was inserted into new pot a little too high by about 2" so by the next morning, everybody was a little wilted so I poured out the transplant and made the discovery of brown roots not too bad but bad enough so I have cut off the roots cleaned the rot off of every plant and have removed almost all of what were beautiful and white roots 8 hrs before. So it has been 2 days. I have flushed and cleaned the whole system and refreshed system with Dynabloom @ 4ml per gallon and PHed to 5.3 and I am hoping that they will all come back currently everybody is not happy. Does anybody know if there anything else I can be doing that will help correct this issue ? as far as any other nutes that would help or maybe a good foliar spray for small plants with this issue without making it worse or should I be patient and hope for the best.

Thanks,
Stomata
 
G

gro4gold

2
3
Hey I have a question about the UC system. I am experiencing seeming to be random plants drooping/wilting. I can't figure this one out. water flow is good, air stones are good my room temp is high the ac stopped working so it ranges 91-102 degrees water temp 66 degrees I think i might have shocked to roots on my last change out is their anything you could suggest checking? thanks T
 
H

Hmop

1
1
I have noticed more and more people ask how to veg/prep their plants for flower in the Under Current, and rightly so. IMO a key aspect of a successful UC run is the vegetative phase, and having a seamless transition of it into the system. That being said, it is presented here in 3 easy steps, and 4 very cheap products total (3 really unless you count 29% H2o2.) Thats right, no expensive ass RE, or anything else for that matter. The process takes from 21-30 days from fresh cut to flower.

Phase 1: Rooting (7-10 days)

Phase one is a simple rooting process, for it all that is needed is 1.5 inch rockwol cubes, rooting powder (the 8 dollar powder from lowes/home depot is much better the expensive hydro store gels) or rooting gel (it still works), Dynabloom, and R/O water.

Cuts are taken and set in a cup of pure R/O for 24 hours of maximum water uptake. Then they recieve an application of rooting powder/gel and are placed in the cubes (1.5 inch rockwol presoaked in R/O). Cubes are then placed in black trays, domed (if RH is below 50%), and placed under a light source no stronger then t8’s (t5’s are too bright and slow rooting times).

Always include a dark period during clone and veg, the dark reactions taking place are required for proper occurrence of the Krebs/citric acid cycle and significantly aid in root production.

As the cubes begin to show signs of rooting switch from applications of pure R/O to 2 ml/gal of Dynabloom pHed to 5.2. The reason Dyna is such a great nutrient for rooting is that it contains the highest level of P and K of any line on the market, (see profiles below). In fact at this point in the plants life the P and the K are really all it needs.

Dyna Gro Bloom (3-12-6) (NH4) 0.7% (NO3) 2.3% Mg0.5% Ca2% Fe0.1% S0.09% Mn0.05% @2ml/ Gal
N 20.6
P 36.2
K 34.4
Mg 6.8
Ca 13.8
S .6
Fe .68
B .125
Cl NOT LISTED
Co .02072
Cu .688
Mn .668
Mo .01244
Zn .688

Pics are at 10 days from cutting:


Can i use this theery for seedling after first leaves appear
In place of 1/4 strength grow nutes
Use dynagrow bloom
For a. Phosphorgenic profile
 
Sonnyhad

Sonnyhad

80
18
I have noticed more and more people ask how to veg/prep their plants for flower in the Under Current, and rightly so. IMO a key aspect of a successful UC run is the vegetative phase, and having a seamless transition of it into the system. That being said, it is presented here in 3 easy steps, and 4 very cheap products total (3 really unless you count 29% H2o2.) Thats right, no expensive ass RE, or anything else for that matter. The process takes from 21-30 days from fresh cut to flower.

Phase 1: Rooting (7-10 days)

Phase one is a simple rooting process, for it all that is needed is 1.5 inch rockwol cubes, rooting powder (the 8 dollar powder from lowes/home depot is much better the expensive hydro store gels) or rooting gel (it still works), Dynabloom, and R/O water.

Cuts are taken and set in a cup of pure R/O for 24 hours of maximum water uptake. Then they recieve an application of rooting powder/gel and are placed in the cubes (1.5 inch rockwol presoaked in R/O). Cubes are then placed in black trays, domed (if RH is below 50%), and placed under a light source no stronger then t8’s (t5’s are too bright and slow rooting times).

Always include a dark period during clone and veg, the dark reactions taking place are required for proper occurrence of the Krebs/citric acid cycle and significantly aid in root production.

As the cubes begin to show signs of rooting switch from applications of pure R/O to 2 ml/gal of Dynabloom pHed to 5.2. The reason Dyna is such a great nutrient for rooting is that it contains the highest level of P and K of any line on the market, (see profiles below). In fact at this point in the plants life the P and the K are really all it needs.

Dyna Gro Bloom (3-12-6) (NH4) 0.7% (NO3) 2.3% Mg0.5% Ca2% Fe0.1% S0.09% Mn0.05% @2ml/ Gal
N 20.6
P 36.2
K 34.4
Mg 6.8
Ca 13.8
S .6
Fe .68
B .125
Cl NOT LISTED
Co .02072
Cu .688
Mn .668
Mo .01244
Zn .688

Pics are at 10 days from cutting:
 
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