HOW TO WATER COCO FOR BEST RESULTS.

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Ghosttrainx

Ghosttrainx

No doubt that works for you but there would be a big difference in how it works with someone in a 1 gal contain and a 5 gal with differing media amendments like perlite, vermiculite or hydroton.

For those wondering what a water table is.

Hi aqua man hope your doing well my bro 👻🚂😎🤜🤛🙏🤞
 
Ghosttrainx

Ghosttrainx

Bad night.... hockey induced rage lol... hope all is well brother.
Lol hockey rage sounds like a new drug to rage on haha all good bro 5 weeks today so big flush today and start the PK 13 .14 so I can start running the resin builder after PK so it's ready for tops to be cut in 3 weeks so getting super hyped for pay day so I can get me moto bike hot up some more and tyres on car after the dyno remap I had done on it she justs peels the tyres lol 😜😎🤜🤛👻🚂🤙😱🤯🙃😉😊
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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Lol hockey rage sounds like a new drug to rage on haha all good bro 5 weeks today so big flush today and start the PK 13 .14 so I can start running the resin builder after PK so it's ready for tops to be cut in 3 weeks so getting super hyped for pay day so I can get me moto bike hot up some more and tyres on car after the dyno remap I had done on it she justs peels the tyres lol 😜😎🤜🤛👻🚂🤙😱🤯🙃😉😊
I have learned while I love bikes I'm far to much of an idiot to own one. Just like muscle cars.... not a good idea for me
 
Fudge

Fudge

Aqua, with one of my Thai strains, I can see that calcium is becoming an issue, but the nitrates seem sufficient, IMO. Don't wish to overdo nitrates in flower. Been using the Calcium Nitrate, what can I add during mid to late flowering, that can mitigate the problem, adding to the whole, while keeping my nutrients in a balanced ratio. I just need to control the Calcium, independent of the nitrate, is what I guess I'm saying....

Suggestions please, and a few would be ideal. Potassium or Phosphate could be with it, but so could something like sulfate, but it would need to be miscible in H20.
Have a look into diatomaceous earth mate
Screenshot_20210607-022812_Chrome.jpg
 
Frankster

Frankster

Supporter
That's pretty high... maybe salinity and looks like light burn
That's why the first 3 weeks I run ph at 5.8 for it can get the cal mag and u could have to much cal mag in pot if your dosing it with it and there is to much in pot it can't take up and giving lock out and burn signs👻🚂😎💯
No cal-mag being used whatsoever. Just mag sulfate, and calcium nitrate.
 
Frankster

Frankster

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Yeah showing calcium and others.... but it's not due to lack of nutrients.
I actually think it was more of a pH issue, and once I got the pH back up where it belonged (maybe 3 weeks back) it just continued to set in the damage that was already done, because even the leaves that were affected badly seemed to have recovered somewhat, and everything looks engaged at this point. Some dead necrosis, but other spots are still engaged.

I had run out of master blend that week, and had to turn to organics, and it never quite kicked in to do much of any good, so once the stuff came in, I got her back on track.

I was hoping that it would have recovered better, but I guess not.
 
Fudge

Fudge

I actually think it was more of a pH issue, and once I got the pH back up where it belonged (maybe 3 weeks back) it just continued to set in the damage that was already done, because even the leaves that were affected badly seemed to have recovered somewhat, and everything looks engaged at this point. Some dead necrosis, but other spots are still engaged.

I had run out of master blend that week, and had to turn to organics, and it never quite kicked in to do much of any good, so once the stuff came in, I got her back on track.

I was hoping that it would have recovered better, but I guess not.
For future reference, if you ever need a single element to add I've just seen that canna do these
Not exactly cheap but will do the job needed
 
Ghosttrainx

Ghosttrainx

Missing thing so everything edited lol
I actually think it was more of a pH issue, and once I got the pH back up where it belonged (maybe 3 weeks back) it just continued to set in the damage that was already done, because even the leaves that were affected badly seemed to have recovered somewhat, and everything looks engaged at this point. Some dead necrosis, but other spots are still engaged.

I had run out of master blend that week, and had to turn to organics, and it never quite kicked in to do much of any good, so once the stuff came in, I got her back on track.

I was hoping that it would have recovered better, but I guess not.
How cold is it there and water if to cold the water or in room of night or morning's can cause that like roses bushes 😜👻🚂👽🤙🤟✊
 
Frankster

Frankster

Supporter
For future reference, if you ever need a single element to add I've just seen that canna do these
Not exactly cheap but will do the job needed
I wonder if I could just make it by boiling it into the water, I would think there needs to be some sort of more stable isotope, there's 2 in nature, another is radioactive. I didn't know Ca+ was available in a standalone with available uptake. Usually salts are more soluble in H20.

Calcium has six stable isotopes, two of which occur in nature: stable 40Ca and radioactive 41Ca with a half-life = 106 years.
I'm thinking crushed up eggshells, with a tad of vinegar, and heat should do the trick for much cheaper $$$
(I eat lots of eggs).

When calcium carbonate comes in contact with vinegar which contains acetic acid (CH3CO2H) a chemical reaction occurs. ... 2 CH3COOH + CaCO3 = H2O + CO2 + Ca(CH3COO)2. CaCO3(s) + 2CH3COOH(l) Ca(CH3COO)2(s) + H2O(l) + CO2(g)

But need to get my molar masses close, so I don't have extra vinegar, or inactivated calcium. Probably bake the eggshells in the oven first.
I'm thinking there's several nutrients that can be fashioned on the cheap this way, if I can figure out which the best ones are for uptake. Most of the metals should be pretty easy, I would think. Sure would be nice to have each and every one of them, in an active form, for immediate uptake, on demand.

Some of those, a few grams should last years for most people.
 
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Frankster

Frankster

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I'm really interested in learning how to put together each element in it's correctly charged state, and how they interact on a molecular level, ie. the ratio's. Which, and when. Learning how to control everything. I think there's much to learn from all of this, if it can be broken down, and analyzed, from a developmental/ratio perspective, then anticipate needs.

I'm not big on keeping logs, fuck that shit. Not happening after so many years documentation 4-8 hrs everyday. I'll learn this crap backwards, I'm intellectually that way anyhow. I'm not going to keep logs period.

I can certainly look at the plant and identify it's developmental stage, then adjust the formula accordingly. It is especially helpful with my perpetual, because I can sorta approximate things on the fly, for slightly different developmental stages. I'm getting there, with aqua's help. I've just got to create every kinda possible problem, so I can correct them... See them at the beginning stages...

Maybe I should do it on purpose, with some small plants, for shits and giggles. Then document it. Now that, would be worth writing down, IMO.
 
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Frankster

Frankster

Supporter
When I first start flowering plants, they always get light in the centers, like some sorta sulfur issues. Is that a fair assessment? Would that make sense early on in flowering? I'm talking a few days into the flip, or the first week, afterwards.

Are mag, and sulfur the first flowering needs outta the gate? Probably controlling enzyme production?
 
Frankster

Frankster

Supporter
I've also seem to notice this grow that using more calcium nitrate seems to make my buds a lot more clean, but also somewhat less stoney than they ammonium phosphate seems to do, maybe not quite as potent, but certainly cleaner. Maybe there's some other factors at play here, but it seems the fertilizer regimes really effect the density of weed in many unexpected ways.
 
Frankster

Frankster

Supporter
Have a look into diatomaceous earth mate
View attachment 1132798
Yea, I would be interested to see the availability numbers in these things, broken down for each element. It's obviously not all soluble, which is the real sticking point for me. It's always good to have trace amounts sitting in reserve, but much of it has the potential to inactivate other substances, and absorb them. Don't want too much stuff being pulled any single direction.

That's why I also use the humics, to constantly recharge, cations, anions... I want as many sites as possible. But keeping it on the simple side, and trying to promote the stink factor. There's a lot of potential if you can keep something in a soluble state, always ready for immediate uptake.
 
Ghosttrainx

Ghosttrainx

I've also seem to notice this grow that using more calcium nitrate seems to make my buds a lot more clean, but also somewhat less stoney than they ammonium phosphate seems to do, maybe not quite as potent, but certainly cleaner. Maybe there's some other factors at play here, but it seems the fertilizer regimes really effect the density of weed in many unexpected ways.
Calcium helps break down the salts levels in plant 🙃😉but like everything to much is not good to less is not got a good balance diet 👻🚂😜🤜🤛
 
LuckyLuck

LuckyLuck

I have one question regarding watering on 360* stakes. I have high gph pump but low psi so my stakes gets really uneven watering. So i scroll through Aquaman’s mother hunt post and saw that i need at least 20psi pump. In my local store there is one pump but its too strong 69.5 Psi. I was thinking to install this pump put antisyphon brass spring valve and 40 psi pressure reducer from rain bird. I would put 4 orbit 8way manifold and 360* stakes. Do you guys thinks this gonna work?
 
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