Aqua Man
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Have a read here. PH is not well understood by many imo. It's not so much the PH that is important in buffering as the alkalinity. PH is simply the result of the ratio of alkalinity and acidity.Legend as always. I'm constantly reminded of the medical maxim 'when you hear thundering hooves don't look for zebras'. Occam's razor. The nutrient thing is such a rabbit hole, when in actual fact the answer to almost everything is environment so look there first.
I went down a rabbit hole this week of trying to fix wildly fluctuating pH. Now I've since discovered that I must buffer my RO with Calmag to prevent this. Another lesson learned. But as a responder told me - why are you going crazy over this when your plants look great? Yes there's a solution and here it is but why even measure your pH out and confuse the issue when you're totally happy with where your plants are?
I had taken on board what you said last time and I just cut them. Every time everything around that part of the plant perks up as they get more air and aren't having to support a leaf that isn't really supporting them any more. Great advice as always.
With buffering RO, I read somewhere last night that people are saying use pH up to get the water to 10, then pH down to 6 then begin adding bird nutes. That sounds like a recipe for a bucket of salt water to me? Any truth to this?
Awesome thanks man, will do. I got some good advice of another thread from you, I've been doing 0.4 EC Calmag, gonna pull that way back to 1-1.5 and make the rest to 0.2 front K Silicate :)Have a read here. PH is not well understood by many imo. It's not so much the PH that is important in buffering as the alkalinity. PH is simply the result of the ratio of alkalinity and acidity.
Marijuana pH Levels for Growing Weed: A Basic Explanation
OK I'm going to do my best to explain PH since its something that is for the most part greatly misunderstood and can be confusing to new growers and even experienced growers alike. This will explain why we need both ppm and PH meters to give us informed information about PH This will be a...www.thcfarmer.com
Just make sure the silicate is add first. Then allowed to mix for 20 min before phing down to 6.5 then add the rest in the proper order or you will likely get precipitateAwesome thanks man, will do. I got some good advice of another thread from you, I've been doing 0.4 EC Calmag, gonna pull that way back to 1-1.5 and make the rest to 0.2 front K Silicate :)
Just because everyone seems to have their own 'proper order', can I confirm yours?Just make sure the silicate is add first. Then allowed to mix for 20 min before phing down to 6.5 then add the rest in the proper order or you will likely get precipitate
You are using 2 forms of silicon? Looks ok to me.Just because everyone seems to have their own 'proper order', can I confirm yours?
I have:
Silicate
pH down
Calmag
Silica
Part A
Fulvic
Part B
Rhizo
Cannazym
Please correct me at your earliest convenience! Tired of tipping stuff in and seeing clouds... M
So the potassium silicate is used for silicate and ph stabilization. Silicon dioxide is close to PH neutral and is the form available to plants. If I remember right but I'm fairly sure.[SiO(4−2x)−4−x] = silicate
The family includes:
OOrthosilicate SiO4−4 (x = 0),
metasilicate SiO2−3 (x = 1),
pyrosilicate Si2O6−7 (x = 0.5, n = 2).
View attachment 1163131
Silica = Silicon dioxide
Other names
Personally, I think your better off with the dioxide form, but I'm not precisely sure. Not even sure if it makes any difference whatsoever. Certainly, the silicon dioxide is far cheaper to obtain. I know that much.
- Quartz
- Silica
- Silicic oxide
- Silicon(IV) oxide
- Crystalline silica
- Pure Silica
- Silicea
- Silica sand
- View attachment 1163132
Thanks mate. Nah I bought silica as a stand alone, before I knew of Ksil. Now I know I can kill 2 birds with 1 stone I went buy it again!You are using 2 forms of silicon? Looks ok to me.
I had also read on that other thread that lots of folks use Calmag that doesn't have calcium nitrate to prevent overloading the N. Do you have an opinion on this?So the potassium silicate is used for silicate and ph stabilization. Silicon dioxide is close to PH neutral and is the form available to plants. If I remember right but I'm fairly sure.
So if using for PH stabilization (alkalinity) potassium silicate is a great option. If just for silica then silicon dioxide is a better choice.
I think ppl use to much cal mag and higher than needed concentrations of ferts.I had also read on that other thread that lots of folks use Calmag that doesn't have calcium nitrate to prevent overloading the N. Do you have an opinion on this?
Did I see you say somewhere that you flush and cannazym every two weeks?I think ppl use to much cal mag and higher than needed concentrations of ferts.
So cal nitrate imo is not an issue you just need to account for it. If you want to put the time and effort into optimizing ratios. Which can be a lot of work.
It also depends on your water supply. I use tap and it contains a fair bit of cal carbonate but very little magnesium. My base ferts also contain cal and mag so between the 2 my ratio of cal to mag is not optimal but still decent so I add mag sulfate and don't need to add any cal mag usually.
But if RO you won't have that issue and adding 100-150ppm should be enough in most cases.
The ratios of nutrients are the most important part when it comes to nutrients
In my coco drain to waste I add hygrozym every 2 weeks or so.Did I see you say somewhere that you flush and cannazym every two weeks?
What size pots?Just so the farm doesn't forget how awesome what goes on here is...
Day 46 from seed for my girls. I feel like just the last two or three days the nute/watering schedule has started to click on more of a deep level, which probably just means I'm starting to be able to listen to my girls. Was always going to be a learning curve and so much more to learn yet, so I'm sure some things I've done have slowed progress by a week or two. Having said that the one on bottom right is a week younger and she's done super well to catch up. They have never looked as they do now with the nutes starting to hit the right spot.
I'm really happy with all the potential sites even on the bottom left which is the one that was a bit water and nute stunted but has taken off last two days and never looked better. I think perhaps early on my watering schedule was too often for the little roots, but now they just want to be fed every four hours. They're not even close to 5% of pot size each watering but as long as I get my 20% they just loooove it.
I think the back right has the most beautiful leaf structure, but back left is lil miss vigor. Just looks like it's rearing to go and bang out a nice half pound for me
Too big. About 8 gal. Hydro store said they were the way to go. One of the drainage tubs underneath has now split around the drain point and needs to be replaced. Won't be using them again after I found out you're in 3 gals. It's too big, makes watering really awkward early on when they don't need much but you want run off.What size pots?
Agreed. I've not had any more problems with either mag and sulfur of late, and I think a ratio of around 50% these 2 elements to both calcium nitrate, and micro's is more than sufficient in my experience, and around 50% of phosphorus once flowering begins.I think ppl use to much cal mag and higher than needed concentrations of ferts.
So cal nitrate imo is not an issue you just need to account for it. If you want to put the time and effort into optimizing ratios. Which can be a lot of work.
It also depends on your water supply. I use tap and it contains a fair bit of cal carbonate but very little magnesium. My base ferts also contain cal and mag so between the 2 my ratio of cal to mag is not optimal but still decent so I add mag sulfate and don't need to add any cal mag usually.
But if RO you won't have that issue and adding 100-150ppm should be enough in most cases.
The ratios of nutrients are the most important part when it comes to nutrients
Thanks. Bookmarked it. I've been reading a few articles there as well. Seems it's not just health related, but biochemistry/biological sciences in general. This was a great "cutting edge science" article on flowering I ran into on that site, along with many others. Essentially Tre6P is the "insulin" of plants, and helps to "pull" the sucrose though the cell walls like a hook. Tres6P is a phosphate complex.Check out this interactive periodic table of elements, I'm an idiot but I find this super interesting... https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/periodic-table/
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