HOW TO WATER COCO FOR BEST RESULTS.

[Observationist]

“How to water 70%+ perlite coco”

 

[yobbocrack]

“How to water 70%+ perlite coco”

In the southern hemisphere we twirl anticlockwise.

 

[RonnieB2nd]

I have only used 100% coco and on the 8th grow now with all my previous grows i had drying on top of the coco but not much and i got leaf yellow/brown spots a few weeks into bloom but with this grow i stopped that and saw no drying and it looks the best grow i have done.

I've never used 100% coco. I use coco loco from Fox Farm. It's buffered and pre loaded with nutrients and supplements for about 2 weeks of growth

 

[yobbocrack]

and pre loaded with nutrients and supplements for about 2 weeks of growth

i didn't know coco was available with some nutrient i guess just water is added?

 

[Aqua Man]

i didn't know coco was available with some nutrient i guess just water is added?

Yeah but that coco changes the structure so its a bit more dense… all coco is not created equal and the amount of pith ir organics in it will change watering needs so be prepared for that. That type of coco is more in line with watering like peatmoss

 

[yobbocrack]

i have been using bagged canna plus coco but i recently bought there bricks they reckon its the same as there bagged coco and they say to use water to hydrate the brick but what about hydrating it with a nutrient solution? i go in around 0.8/1.0 in coco with a already germinated seed and it starts fine.

 

[yobbocrack]

got about 5 days to go and I'm cutting it they said up to 55 days

 

[yobbocrack]

I'm not trying to go off the topic of this thread but what does the light purple represent in this pic

 

[MasterCookie]

@Aqua Man This thread took me 3 days to complete but this is the most bestest information on general growing there is. PLEASE PLEASE don't let the stupid ignorant people stress you out. Your information is gold. Worth more than the cannabis everyone is growing combined.

Now with that out of the way. PEOPLE 90% saturation is not water logg. Waterlogged is lack of oxygen or dissolved O2. AquaMan information is meant to be used as an excellent rule of thumb. A guide it the amazing right direction. He said water till runoff when you need to water... key word when you need to water!! Not up watering to prove a point.

High frequency watering allows for a more stable medium for nutrients uptake. Alot of people doesn't understand that plants doesn't take up equally amounts of one specific mineral. Ppm is also a general rule of thumb. And because your plants uptake different mineral at different points of the day/night cycle. There will have ph and conductivity swings. Especially in cocopeat that isn't buffered properly. So to combat that smaller pot will allow for ph and ppm stability by allowing for multiple "reset" of physical and chemical parameters within your growing media. Hence and overall stable environment to allow the cannabis to thrive.
In big pot or in pot that takes 2to 3 days to dry out.. you pH will definitely swing because plants naturally releases H+ ions into its growing media. Also because the mechanical action of watering draws in oxygen into your water table, if you have to wait 3 days to water... in the base of your pots my stand a chance to goe anaerobic and cause root rot.. it never oversatuation of water that causes rot.. but it's stagnant water. So all those that is bashing AquaMan put become informed and please shut your mouths.

I'm a new outdoor farmer to Cannabis but I am a 15+ yr farmer to Aquaponics. I know a thing or two on water and trust me when factoring the organics of Aquaponics into a grow.. Oxygen and water stagnant goes south pretty fast.

 

[yobbocrack]

I'm not hijacking this thread but what does the light purple represent in this pic

actually never mind this question i think the color change was to do with its transition.

 

[Aqua Man]

i have been using bagged canna plus coco but i recently bought there bricks they reckon its the same as there bagged coco and they say to use water to hydrate the brick but what about hydrating it with a nutrient solution? i go in around 0.8/1.0 in coco with a already germinated seed and it starts fine.

I rinse the bricks in tap just to clear as much dust as possible. that will help give more aeration to the coco so its less compact.

you can soak it or hydrate it with nutrients if you like but i prefer to rinse it

 

[Aqua Man]

I'm not hijacking this thread but what does the light purple represent in this pic

View attachment 1294506

Just genetic expression those buds should look nice when finished

 

[Aqua Man]

@Aqua Man This thread took me 3 days to complete but this is the most bestest information on general growing there is. PLEASE PLEASE don't let the stupid ignorant people stress you out. Your information is gold. Worth more than the cannabis everyone is growing combined.

Now with that out of the way. PEOPLE 90% saturation is not water logg. Waterlogged is lack of oxygen or dissolved O2. AquaMan information is meant to be used as an excellent rule of thumb. A guide it the amazing right direction. He said water till runoff when you need to water... key word when you need to water!! Not up watering to prove a point.

High frequency watering allows for a more stable medium for nutrients uptake. Alot of people doesn't understand that plants doesn't take up equally amounts of one specific mineral. Ppm is also a general rule of thumb. And because your plants uptake different mineral at different points of the day/night cycle. There will have ph and conductivity swings. Especially in cocopeat that isn't buffered properly. So to combat that smaller pot will allow for ph and ppm stability by allowing for multiple "reset" of physical and chemical parameters within your growing media. Hence and overall stable environment to allow the cannabis to thrive.
In big pot or in pot that takes 2to 3 days to dry out.. you pH will definitely swing because plants naturally releases H+ ions into its growing media. Also because the mechanical action of watering draws in oxygen into your water table, if you have to wait 3 days to water... in the base of your pots my stand a chance to goe anaerobic and cause root rot.. it never oversatuation of water that causes rot.. but it's stagnant water. So all those that is bashing AquaMan put become informed and please shut your mouths.

I'm a new outdoor farmer to Cannabis but I am a 15+ yr farmer to Aquaponics. I know a thing or two on water and trust me when factoring the organics of Aquaponics into a grow.. Oxygen and water stagnant goes south pretty fast.

Appreciate the response… i dont let anything get to me… many dont realize much of the things you pointed out and many with differing opinions and experiences dont account for the changes they make to the coco as you pointed out like adding organic amendments

 

[yobbocrack]

I rinse the bricks in tap just to clear as much dust as possible. that will help give more aeration to the coco so its less compact.

you can soak it or hydrate it with nutrients if you like but i prefer to rinse it

thanks mate i thought about doing a short cut without water first but makes sense its like following the the directions from the nutrient maker just follow there instructions.

 

[MasterCookie]

Appreciate the response… i dont let anything get to me… many dont realize much of the things you pointed out and many with differing opinions and experiences dont account for the changes they make to the coco as you pointed out like adding organic amendments

Organic amendments tends to cause the media to become alkaline over time. Due to as the beneficial bacteria digest carbon rich foods.. they release carbonic acids which instantly binds to calcium to form carbonates which interns causes an even bigger buffer in the soil to overcome via subsequent watering. The irony I see is you u are an organic grower you will benefit more from using inorganic amendments due to the fact that increased in carbon to nitrogen ratio causes assimilation of minerals such as phosphorus with the body of the bacteria such as PAO.. this instantly locks away all nutrients until the microbs can consume the extra carbon to see then restart the release of nutrients as the bacterial boom dies off. Adding organics to organic soil are a long term benefit but halts short term growth.

 

[MasterCookie]

In saying that I'm a full organic grower via Aquaponics. Aquaponics once done correctly is a perfect hybrid between hydroponics practices and organic farming. The soild waste can be mixed into the cocopeat together with worm casting to make your planting soil.. then the water from the Aquaponics is treated as hydroponics nutrient solution. It also helps to have meters that can tell you exactly how much nitrates calcium and potassium your water have and you can make amendments to suit. One of the biggest benefits of organic is you don't have to be sterile with anything.. well you got a bigger margin for error.. and for outdoor growing it help holds more liquid in the cocopeat even when aeration amendments are added. So you can get the best aeration and best water retention and the bacteria can lock up excess nutrients to slow release it to your plants between watering or very hot days. CHEERS.. hope I'm not hijacking the thread I just love education on growing plants..

 

[Aqua Man]

In saying that I'm a full organic grower via Aquaponics. Aquaponics once done correctly is a perfect hybrid between hydroponics practices and organic farming. The soild waste can be mixed into the cocopeat together with worm casting to make your planting soil.. then the water from the Aquaponics is treated as hydroponics nutrient solution. It also helps to have meters that can tell you exactly how much nitrates calcium and potassium your water have and you can make amendments to suit. One of the biggest benefits of organic is you don't have to be sterile with anything.. well you got a bigger margin for error.. and for outdoor growing it help holds more liquid in the cocopeat even when aeration amendments are added. So you can get the best aeration and best water retention and the bacteria can lock up excess nutrients to slow release it to your plants between watering or very hot days. CHEERS.. hope I'm not hijacking the thread I just love education on growing plants..

Not at all the more discussion the better

 

[Observationist]

Organic amendments tends to cause the media to become alkaline over time. Due to as the beneficial bacteria digest carbon rich foods.. they release carbonic acids which instantly binds to calcium to form carbonates which interns causes an even bigger buffer in the soil to overcome via subsequent watering. The irony I see is you u are an organic grower you will benefit more from using inorganic amendments due to the fact that increased in carbon to nitrogen ratio causes assimilation of minerals such as phosphorus with the body of the bacteria such as PAO.. this instantly locks away all nutrients until the microbs can consume the extra carbon to see then restart the release of nutrients as the bacterial boom dies off. Adding organics to organic soil are a long term benefit but halts short term growth.

Interesting read

Trying to soak up as much true information I can

 

[MasterCookie]

Another point to note.. Runoff ppm can be very misleading especially on the higher end of the ppm spectrum, for those that are running high ppm feeds. Which your media saturation drops off concentration of your dissolved nutrients in your increase to the point that it cannot hold all the salts in a dissolved state. So what happens salts starts to crystallize out. And not any type salt... Calcium to be specific. Calcium binds with first Phosphorus and then lockes away Magnesium and Iron in a complex molecules. Wastewater treatment plants actually utilize this to precipitate out Phosphorus for recovery. Calcium also binds with Sulphates as well. But you will think that well for my next watering I can just use distilled water or a dilute nutrient solution with ph down. However ph down is Phosphorus acid and the irony is when Calcium precipitate out of solution with anything other than carbonate.. it literally becomes impossible to redisslove to flush out of your media. Ca3(PO4)2 and CaSO4 forms a protective coating that prevents further reactions and re-solution even in distill water especially when using pH down.

So in conclusion if you see seeing signs of nutrient/chemical burns on your plants and your runoff water is within you incoming ppm range. If you running high ppm solution most likely your have Calcium lock out. Only hydrochloric acid which I know Noone will ever use.. or Acetic Acid (white vinegar) which is the most effective way to flush out Calcium deposits.. Cheers from your friendly Chem engineer.

 

[MasterCookie]

So @Aqua Man rule of thumb to water when reach 90% saturation and run lower ppm. Is golden information on an engineering standpoint of eliminating the problem to begin with. Amazing information .