That is such a beautiful sight to behold as a grower, I'm sure that many of us on here would have sighed a high of the deepest love and admiration at seeing an area as tidy and efficiently purposed as this one has been. Bravo sir. You are a grower of the finest caliber. Keep it upHere's the real reason I prefer the cobs over the cmh.you can see in the pic the cobs have better growth on the outside of the cobs.the wattage is more evenly distributed.the cmh is good about 2x2 than after that the growth suffers in the shadows.i honestly think it would take 945 watts of cmh ro compete with 700 watts of cob leds.
To make matters worse I had to put the 600 HPS where the cmh burned out twice already,so theres 915 watts vs 700 watts of cobs.i should 5he be cmh replacement by monday.
I like the cmh but I'm still giving the nod to the cobs for pound for pound winner on efficiency and electrical savings to benefits.
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Not a question just gonna do a comparison of them all.Been wanting to do this for a while.I built a new building and the Flower room is complete so I'm getting everything set up.Running all clones.Ill mix up the clones under each light setup to see the differences if any and the lights im using is as close as i can get it for wattage.The HPS are 1000 Watt single ended which is probably close to a 750 to 800 DE so they will be 1000W
The CMH will be 630 watts,2 315'sand the LED is 750 watts of COBS.15 cobs total.
Each will be setup over a 4x5 in DWC so no mix ups in nutrients or lockouts.The lights will be the only factor that separates them.Gonna do a 5 week VEG and than flip.ill be running CO2 also.
One of the hoods im gonna run a Metal Halide 5000K 1000W bulb and the other 1000W HPS bulb.Just to see if running an HPS from the beginning or the HID will make any difference.After I switch to flower ill put the HPS in the hood and run both HPS from there out.
I know the wattages are not all identical but feel they are pretty close comparisons for what people prefer for 1000W equivalent setups.
I can already tell you this much.The 500 watts of COB Led is the brightest shit over the totes right now.
Another thing i have a LUX meter app and the 600W MH is getting owned by the 315 CMH.
i can put the meter under the MH and get readings from 25,000 to 42,000
Under the CMH with half the wattages im getting from 26,000 to 60,000.I always try and get over 28,000 to 45,000 for these size plants and on through the grow seems to be the sweet spot.
So without further due ill get this thing started.Ill keep it updated and post final weight results and grams per watts ETC .
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The Lux meter is just a comparison tool.watts from the wall matter cause thats where the money goes to pay the light bill.Lumens are for himans. You need to have a par reading of 35 per spyware foot. Lights that are between 400nm to 700nm is the light that a marajaunia plant uses throughout it different cycles. "Photosynthetically available radiation," or PAR the unit of measuring PAR , micro mold per second [umol/s] indicates how many photons in this spectral range fall on the plant each second. Inexpensive PAR meters use sensors that respond over the entire 400 to 700 nm spectrum, and have their own sensitivity curves that require a different calibration for sunlight. With the rapid advances in let's and COB we know longer can effectively use the watt at the wall theory. With Lights that have been traditionally used in the past you can still gauge how effective your setup is or how your skill set is by using the watt to gram calculation. Most don't achieve the 1 true watt = 1 gram but many of your seasoned growers are pushing close to 1.25 to one. That' when you know your doing it right! As times and technology changes so do we on how we gather and use this new information. I urge you all that grow with any of the newer lights to read up on this and quit using lux/Lumen meters as it doesn't take in account the 12 plus wave length that give you a accurate reading on what your plants need and are getting.Peace, Roscoe
I'm sure you can see my autocorrect is in overdrive. I never recheck anything I post. I probably should if I expect anyone to think I got a damn brain and made it past 4th. Grade! LolThe Lux meter is just a comparison tool.watts from the wall matter cause thats where the money goes to pay the light bill.
If a lux meter under a t5 is saying I have 20,000 lux and the lux meter under my 1000w hid or cob array is saying 80,000.its safe to say that the t5 is a wee bit behind.next plan is to get an expensive par reader and compare numbers for the hell of it.
I agree totally. Most manufacturers fudge their numbers on their wave lengths. My thought that since we don't get 300 watts out of a 300 led I want to know what I'm getting as far as [umo/s] which actually matter where your getting your best penetration. I'v tinkered with mine and found that the manufacturers hot spots are not where they claim. Pretty close though. I guess in a nutshell what I was saying is that to many people are getting fooled with this technology that we are changing to. I know what to expect with my H.P.S.'s. I'l admit I went cheap on the first 2 sets and they'r shit. Not as advertised. I got Sky Kings now and still for the money there are better options. I'l run these this summer and I'm switching to black dog that has a solid product. My buddy tried to get me to get them like his but sky king has a good rep but not enough to not spend the extra $ .Peace, RoscoeLumens are for comparison. If your running different lights of similar color temperature then for comparison purposes it is fine. If you read scientific papers regarding PAR you'll find that there are issues with that measuring method as well and the reason I don't own a PAR meter is they basically all suck (as far as accuracy and repeatability). They tend to be a waste of money.
Also, recent studies are saying that some wavelengths of light we previously thought were of no value actually have an effect on plant growth. The system we live in creates white light that varies somewhat in actual color temperature due to geometry and atmospheric conditions but my guess is the system of plant life has use for all the light nature creates. The latest solid state lights create such accurate color rendition that I have quite a lot of confidence that this is an advantage over lights that were designed under the assumption that plants only need red and blue.
The only thing that seems unclear is UV. If you grow a strain outside and compare the outcome to an indoor grow, what I typically see is the indoor is pretty likely to have higher potency. If you look at outdoor it typically has better terp profiles and tastes better and may even have a slightly different effect. I think that is an indication that although UV increases trich production it also degrades THC. So, for me I want to reproduce for the most part what nature does. In the indoor grow I am thinking it may be better to have a little less UV (or maybe no UV) but as much intensity and color accuracy otherwise.
Anyway, its just a matter of what blows your skirt up. It is all research anyway, the one thing about science is it is almost always wrong and subject to a new theory each season.
The cool thing about what HeisenBubble is doing is it is a comparison of true energy versus output (yield) in a controlled test environment. Lumens, PAR, furlongs per fortnight, doesn't matter its like a foot race, which one will win? which one has the best coverage? Which one will have less larf or better lower bud maturation? Overall weight? Bud quality? Can't wait to see the results!
Cool story bro.I agree totally. Most manufacturers fudge their numbers on their wave lengths. My thought that since we don't get 300 watts out of a 300 led I want to know what I'm getting as far as [umo/s] which actually matter where your getting your best penetration. I'v tinkered with mine and found that the manufacturers hot spots are not where they claim. Pretty close though. I guess in a nutshell what I was saying is that to many people are getting fooled with this technology that we are changing to. I know what to expect with my H.P.S.'s. I'l admit I went cheap on the first 2 sets and they'r shit. Not as advertised. I got Sky Kings now and still for the money there are better options. I'l run these this summer and I'm switching to black dog that has a solid product. My buddy tried to get me to get them like his but sky king has a good rep but not enough to not spend the extra $ .Peace, Roscoe
You're gonna run the bulbs for a minimum of 16 hours on first ignition though, right?? ;)
Same here, just don't know enough about the technology. Just might have got some good insight.You're gonna run the bulbs for a minimum of 16 hours on first ignition though, right?? ;)
And re the UV degrading stuff,. is that why I've started seeing a white powdery coating on leads and stuff that is usually black, since I've switched to cmh I wonder? I didn't get it running de 1000w hps so I'm guessing the 630 de cmh is throwing more uv?
Awesome thread my man, great work. I'm holding off from getting more cmh for now and seriously considering COB as an alternative. Thanks bro.
Nice setup brother.Yeah man its 16x15 feet with a 24K mini split,RO system and CO2 controller.I built it specifically for this purpose.Has an exterior door on the inside that seals the room nice.I can get the CO2 ppm up to 1000 just breathing in the room come back an hr later and it only drop down to like 980.
I went through alot to seal it all up,moisture proof sheetrock,plywood ceilings to screw my fixtures in wherever i need them,several 30 amp outlets and everyone of them has a purpose.Bright as fuck painted walls with elastomeric.I put alot of thought into.The Veg room is next to this one but im still working on it.Will have 27 4 gallon buckets for starting plants.
Lol service with a smile I love that. its good you figured that out... lol fuck human error.
Thanks for doing that, I am making a recommendation for lights in Michigan and watching this closely and sweatin the details....., thanks for your additions to the thread.