Hps Vs Cmh Vs Led

Aqua Man · Jul 5, 2018

G gnome said:
Heres tbat Ca shit i was talkin about...View attachment 813428

Calcium nitrate or at least a portion of it is calcium nitrate.

stonestacker · Jul 5, 2018

G gnome said:
Heres tbat Ca shit i was talkin about...View attachment 813428

Snake oil. I buy mine in the powder form.
https://www.amazon.com/Solution-Fer...&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=calcium+nitrate+fertil

not exactly what I buy you get the idea.

gwheels · Jul 5, 2018

I put the meter on the 315 CMH with 200 watts of vero and my scrubber and 2 fans. 640 watts (5.35 amps). Pretty light load for a 4 x 4

Aqua Man · Jul 5, 2018

stonestacker said:
Snake oil. I buy mine in the powder form.
https://www.amazon.com/Solution-Fer...&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=calcium+nitrate+fertil

not exactly what I buy you get the idea.

Not really snake oil. Its just a diluted form that you pay more for to have all the calculations and dosage done for you. But you do pay a lot more for what you get. I would guess up to 100x or more.

Also that is ammonium calcium nitrate and different than calcium nitrate as nitrogen in the form of ammonium.

Aqua Man · Jul 5, 2018

PPM reference in per 10 Gal of water.

Calcium Nitrate (CaNo3) 11.15 grams = 50ppm Calcium (Ca) and 34.94ppm nitrate (No3) .

Calcium Sulfate (CaS04) 8.13 grams =50ppm Calcium (Ca) and 39.99ppm sulfur (S)

Calcium Ammonium Nitrate 11.15 grams of ammonium nitrate + 11.15 grams of calcium nitrate = 50ppm Calcium (Ca) and 50ppm nitrate (No3) and 15.5ppm of ammonium (NH4)

Ammonium Calcium nitrate varies depending on concentration of blend but is is one example https://www.yara.co.uk/crop-nutrition/fertiliser/nitrate/yarabela-can/ 27% nitrogen 50/50 13.5% ammonia 13.5% nitrate. All you are doing to the calcium nitrate is adding ammonium nitrate that has 0 benefit on the addition of calcium but increase the nitrogen greatly. This servers much better use as an addition in base nutrients rather then a mixture for supplementation of calcium

Aqua Man · Jul 5, 2018

Just to simply things. The best straight calcium additive is Calcium sulfate (gypsum). It adds the most Calcium by weight but I would mix with distilled water before adding as its not as soluble as other forms.

For ease of use and if your not worried about the nitrate content use Calcium nitrate or Calcium nitrate product such as @G gnome listed. It is very soluble in water

Aqua Man · Jul 5, 2018

Ok last post on this, just trying to get clear up things i have stated so you can make up your own minds.

Calcium sulfate at 20C in water has a saturation point of approx. 240ppm which is high enough for our needs.

Calcium Nitrate at 20C in water has a saturation of 1,290,000ppm

This is why most liquid nutes will not use much if any Calcium sulfate or other low solubility nutrients like Mg sulfate. Because they just cannot concentrate it enough.

This is why liquid Ca/Mg products all contain a nitrate values. Those forms are very easily concentrated.

A well balanced fert uses multiple different sources of each nutrient to provide the most balanced product. This is why I have always used dry ferts for my aquatic adventures and will continue to use the same for my MJ adventures.

Sorry for hijacking @heisenbubble I just wanted to make sure the info I gave was clear and everytime i looked back I seen shit i missed explaining.

stonestacker · Jul 5, 2018

Aqua Man said:
Ok last post on this, just trying to get clear up things i have stated so you can make up your own minds.

Calcium sulfate at 20C in water has a saturation point of approx. 240ppm which is high enough for our needs.

Calcium Nitrate at 20C in water has a saturation of 1,290,000ppm

This is why most liquid nutes will not use much if any Calcium sulfate or other low solubility nutrients like Mg sulfate. Because they just cannot concentrate it enough.

This is why liquid Ca/Mg products all contain a nitrate values. Those forms are very easily concentrated.

A well balanced fert uses multiple different sources of each nutrient to provide the most balanced product. This is why I have always used dry ferts for my aquatic adventures and will continue to use the same for my MJ adventures.

Sorry for hijacking @heisenbubble I just wanted to make sure the info I gave was clear and everytime i looked back I seen shit i missed explaining.

Thank you that helps me understand some of the shit I use. And some more to play around with. I'm kinda excited to start playing with my flower mixes now.

Friendlyguy · Jul 5, 2018

Gypsum has calcium sulphate in the dihydrate form (two water molecules with each calcium sulphate) making it somewhat more soluble than the anhydrous form of calcium sulphate. A small amount of gypsum can dissolve at once in the soil solution (limit is 0.24 g per 100 mL of water at 20oC). Once the soil solution reaches the limit of calcium sulphate in solution, gypsum starts to precipitate again. Thus there is a fast provision of calcium and sulphate into soil solution for plant uptake or effect on the soil but the overall rate of release from gypsum is controlled by the rate with which the calcium and sulphate are taken or move from the soil solution.

Aqua Man said:
Ok last post on this, just trying to get clear up things i have stated so you can make up your own minds.

Calcium sulfate at 20C in water has a saturation point of approx. 240ppm which is high enough for our needs.

Calcium Nitrate at 20C in water has a saturation of 1,290,000ppm

This is why most liquid nutes will not use much if any Calcium sulfate or other low solubility nutrients like Mg sulfate. Because they just cannot concentrate it enough.

This is why liquid Ca/Mg products all contain a nitrate values. Those forms are very easily concentrated.

A well balanced fert uses multiple different sources of each nutrient to provide the most balanced product. This is why I have always used dry ferts for my aquatic adventures and will continue to use the same for my MJ adventures.

Sorry for hijacking @heisenbubble I just wanted to make sure the info I gave was clear and everytime i looked back I seen shit i missed explaining.

Aqua Man · Jul 5, 2018

Once you get into mixing your own nutes or supplementing its amazing to see the amount of control you can have. Supplementing is a great way to start or even stay. I mixed my own nutes for years with aquatic plants. I won't start MJ till Oct. and will be using a premix dry nute and adjusting as i see the need. Terrestrial plants are different then what i'm used to and that's the reason i'm starting off with premix. It also adds a lot more options to me since I don't have to worry about living creatures like I had to in the past. This will be whole new experience for me and i'm stoked to get going on it.

Aqua Man · Jul 5, 2018

Friendlyguy said:
Gypsum has calcium sulphate in the dihydrate form (two water molecules with each calcium sulphate) making it somewhat more soluble than the anhydrous form of calcium sulphate. A small amount of gypsum can dissolve at once in the soil solution (limit is 0.24 g per 100 mL of water at 20oC). Once the soil solution reaches the limit of calcium sulphate in solution, gypsum starts to precipitate again. Thus there is a fast provision of calcium and sulphate into soil solution for plant uptake or effect on the soil but the overall rate of release from gypsum is controlled by the rate with which the calcium and sulphate are taken or move from the soil solution.

Exactly I was speaking in terms of hydroponic solution where you want to avoid precipitates. Not sure if you intended to point this out but my calculations were wrong. i calculated at the solubility of 100ml but forgot to convert to mg/L. so

Calcium sufate = 2400ppm and calcium nitrate = 12,900,000 this also affected by temp, PH, and other dissolved nutes. Calium sulfate is less soluble as PH goes down

Friendlyguy · Jul 5, 2018

Just adding info. I'll keep it to myself from now on...lol...wasn't saying you were wrong. Just a bit of random info. Gypsum in hydro should only be used if no other Ca or S containing nute or suppl is being used. Is that correct? I would really like to try hydro in the future...aeroponics sounds very interesting

Aqua Man said:
Exactly I was speaking in terms of hydroponic solution where you want to avoid precipitates. Not sure if you intended to point this out but my calculations were wrong. i calculated at the solubility of 100ml but forgot to convert to mg/L. so

Calcium sufate = 2400ppm and calcium nitrate = 12,900,000 this also affected by temp, PH, and other dissolved nutes. Calium sulfate is less soluble as PH goes down

Aqua Man · Jul 5, 2018

Friendlyguy said:
Just adding info. I'll keep it to myself from now on...lol...wasn't saying you were wrong. Just a bit of random info. Gypsum in hydro should only be used if no other Ca or S containing nute or suppl is being used. Is that correct? I would really like to try hydro in the future...aeroponics sounds very interesting

Use of multiple sources of Cal is ideal or for any nutrient for that matter. Usually Cal/sulf is the smallest amount added to a fert partially because of its solubility, but the more sources you use the easier it is to balance your nutes or get as close to target levels as possible. lets say in flowering you want ppm 20ppm N and 100ppm P and 200ppm K and Ca 100ppm if all your using to attain the Calcium is Calcium nitrate you are going to exceed your N target so using a l little Calcium Nitrate adding some Calcium sulfate would give you the freedom to hit your target of N. Again you need to take the sulfur content into account if adding other sulfates. Its all a balancing acting and the more forms of each nutrient you use the easier it makes it to customize your solution to your needs.

Some sources of nutes cannot be worked into a concentrate effectively enough for distribution. This is why I prefer dry ferts you can attain much more diverse ratio's since you not really limited to a certain source.

G gnome · Jul 5, 2018

stonestacker said:
Snake oil. I buy mine in the powder form.
https://www.amazon.com/Solution-Fer...&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=calcium+nitrate+fertil

not exactly what I buy you get the idea.

Same can be sed for every cannabis specific product on the market

heisen · Jul 8, 2018

MidwestToker said:
No offence taken really, just trying to figure out why you like my shots of GG#4 on the thread GG#4 but the same shots of the same plants on this post and it's not GG.

just wanted to put this here to clear things up.
GG4 has a look that stands out a mile away
I wasnt trying to single you out,just wanted to point this out,the pics you posted look nothing like it to me.
I got these in veg and you can see the look they have in veg is unmistakable.Two different plants but the same cut

Madmax · Jul 8, 2018

Awesome thread you got going here Heisenbubble .

Can i ask what was the ballast and hood used bud for cmh.im bloody lost
to what 315 fixtures i should use for my 5x5 room for 4 plants
My eyes lit up when you mentioned you are going to use an 1000w cmh fixture
I havnt been able to find much on these if they are reliable etc.would b perfect
for my small area..
Cheers Max

heisen · Jul 8, 2018

Not sure on the name,got them.from growers house.ill have to check later.
I upgraded those ballast to a double ended 315 cmh and a wing reflector and really like it alot.
Not as much as the cobs but as far as footprint it's pretty nice.allowed me to use the same ballast made for 315.

Nightslayer · Jul 8, 2018

This thread is incredible!

I've read this thread twice now just to make sure you didn't already answer this question lol but what power supply do you use for each row of cobs?
Thanks again for this awesome experiment!

heisen · Jul 8, 2018

Nightslayer said:
This thread is incredible!

I've read this thread twice now just to make sure you didn't already answer this question lol but what power supply do you use for each row of cobs?
Thanks again for this awesome experiment!

Mean well HLG 240H-C1400B is the driver im using per 5 Vero29 90 CRI D (3000k) cobs,using 15 cobs over each 4x5 area,
Ive been trimming for 4 hrs the past 4 days and have 2 plants left.
I have to say the colas under the Cobs are bigger.Without a doubt there is no comparison.My wife and my helper both agreed without a doubt.Trichs and color were the same as CMH.I have some pictures i will upload later

MidwestToker · Jul 9, 2018

heisenbubble said:
just wanted to put this here to clear things up.
GG4 has a look that stands out a mile away
I wasnt trying to single you out,just wanted to point this out,the pics you posted look nothing like it to me.
I got these in veg and you can see the look they have in veg is unmistakable.Two different plants but the same cut

View attachment 814065

View attachment 814066

Sure, my original cuttings I received looked like yours. Twisty leaves and cupped serrations.
And I have no doubt that my plants look different from yours, totally different growing style, nutrient profiles and environments.

Hps Vs Cmh Vs Led

Hps Vs Cmh Vs Led

Aqua Man

stonestacker

gwheels

Aqua Man

Aqua Man

Aqua Man

Aqua Man

stonestacker

Friendlyguy

Aqua Man

Aqua Man

Friendlyguy

Aqua Man

G gnome

heisen

Madmax

heisen

Nightslayer

heisen

MidwestToker

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