I am new here. Looking for white color led.

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Kepp89

Kepp89

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The A driver has a built in dimmer (screw driver adjustment) with only a small adjustment possible. The B driver has two dimmer leads. You attach a 100k ohm pot and have pretty good External dimmer control. I move lights around and good dimming is needed, so I always get the B drivers. If you will not be dimming often, the A driver is just fine. Hope this helps. ( I THINK otherwise the A and B are the same quality etc wise)
i see. thanks for the info and suggestion
 
Rootbound

Rootbound

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The A driver has a built in dimmer (screw driver adjustment) with only a small adjustment possible. The B driver has two dimmer leads. You attach a 100k ohm pot and have pretty good External dimmer control. I move lights around and good dimming is needed, so I always get the B drivers. If you will not be dimming often, the A driver is just fine. Hope this helps. ( I THINK otherwise the A and B are the same quality etc wise)
Not true, the "A' type driver on my on all three my HLG 260 XW fixtures adjust from 93 watts all the way up to 290 watts with the internal dimmer. The "A" type driver also produces 20 more watts than the "B" type driver.
 
Rootbound

Rootbound

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The A driver has a built in dimmer (screw driver adjustment) with only a small adjustment possible. The B driver has two dimmer leads. You attach a 100k ohm pot and have pretty good External dimmer control. I move lights around and good dimming is needed, so I always get the B drivers. If you will not be dimming often, the A driver is just fine. Hope this helps. ( I THINK otherwise the A and B are the same quality etc wise)
By small adjustments with the "A" type driver, what exactly do you mean? I can adjust my A drivers pretty precisely 1 watt at a time if needed...
 
Buzzer777

Buzzer777

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Not true, the "A' type driver on my on all three my HLG 260 XW fixtures adjust from 93 watts all the way up to 290 watts with the internal dimmer. The "A" type driver also produces 20 more watts than the "B" type driver.
OK,
TY, I capitalized Think, since I was not sure. (I believe I can go down to 10% too with the B drivers and was planning a small Arduano project eventually
 
Rootbound

Rootbound

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why B instead of A?

copy/paste from the site:
HLG-120H-54A has onboard potentiometers for voltage and current adjustment.
HLG-120H-54B has leads to attach a potentiometer for adjustment.


is the onboard one that bad??

i just placed an order for the 288.2 and a 54A driver. should i really change my order?
I would stick with the "a" type driver, no extra wiring needed.
 
Buzzer777

Buzzer777

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By small adjustments with the "A" type driver, what exactly do you mean? I can adjust my A drivers pretty precisely 1 watt at a time if needed...
I have a Meanwell A driver on my older HLG QB288 V1 kit. It has an internal dimmer but IMO..That one no match for the external lead model, and I find it no where as easy to adjust. I also mentioned that I adjust often..Those internal dimmers are fragile in comparison and don't seem meant for constant adjustment....I also buy drivers with more power than I need (for expansion). In any case...each to their own.:D
 
Rootbound

Rootbound

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I have a Meanwell A driver on my older HLG QB288 V1 kit. It has an internal dimmer but IMO..That one no match for the external lead model, and I find it no where as easy to adjust. I also mentioned that I adjust often..Those internal dimmers are fragile in comparison and don't seem meant for constant adjustment....I also buy drivers with more power than I need (for expansion). In any case...each to their own.:D
I adjust all 3 of my "A" type driver quite often also. Never had a problem as long as you use the appropriate size screwdriver. I also heard someone mention the A type drivers adjustment screw being fragile, so I asked HLG before I built my own 2 - 260 xw fixtures a couple yrs ago. HLG said that was the first time they heard of them being fragile and have had no complaints, as the "A" type driver is what they sell in their fixtures.
 
420baby

420baby

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Kepp, the light is a major contribution to development and growth. It is mimicking the sun so something geared towards growing is in the best interest.

600W for $99.00 from KingLED. I like this concept because it has different switches to trigger each light stage.

https://kingledlights.com/products/king-plus-600w-double-chips-led-grow-light

600W for $149.00 from Mars Hydro




Also, are you giving them flowering nutes to help grow bigger buds?


Best of luck!

Is it real 600W light? If so, that is super cheap.
 
420baby

420baby

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Every single led produce generally three primary colors as we all know that red, green and blue. You can also either go it. I am still in confusion why you are looking for it? Well, I still remebered that I used this small ed in one of my projects.
Hey, man. Thanks for letting me know this. I will use the light for indoor grow.
 
420baby

420baby

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Hate to tell you, but Mars was/is one of the worst offenders of mis representing their lights. (those are really old tech anyway..there are newer Mars)
If you take their stated watts and multiple by 50-60%, you will be close to actual..No nada about Kingled. You need to know the ACTUAL watts and the size of your room..For burples figure 45-55 watts per sq ft..for white lights like the Sammys..figure 40-50 watts per sq ft. (ACTUAL WATTS)
You need flowering nutes + a PK BOOSTER for fat buds..There is a ton of info on lights and basic flowering here and on Google..Plz read for yourself..
BURPLE is history and a waste of $$ unless it is the only way..If so..look into Meizhi LEDS..Better lights and better company that puts the real draw on a sticker on the light! Mars CS sux..Meizhi was top notch (I began with Meizhis).
Haven't looked in a long time, but Mars used to send you diodes to DIY replacement under warranty when the 5cent Epistars they use burn out..LMAO

Yes, i heard that white is better than burple. I find that there are three lights that look like quantum board LED on Mars Hydro website. The price is decent. How do you think about this light?
 
420baby

420baby

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I can speak about Meizhi..I owned 4 of them..2x 450 reflectors and 2x 300 watt reflectors. They are built better than Mars and the other no name lights I looked at (Lightmetunnel and Galaxy Hydro)..Actually not too for a Burple, and the heatsinks were pretty HD (ONLY their reflector series)
They grew good weed too.
View attachment 869611

Pretty ladies:fire::fire::fire: I heard that MEIZHI and MarsHydro comes from a same company. Is it ture?
 
Ina

Ina

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Plants look great. man. ;)
Thanks,by the way I am not a man:)What I meant Is that you can look in other, cheaper options,not only "grow"lights.At least for veg you can use almost everything:)I am not a pro but if I had greenhouse i would use few floodlights in there for longer sativas in the autumn:)There is even 500 and 1000 true watts with one or many small diodes......I prefer 3000k-6400k,not the purple leds and i'm looking into industrial and other lighting as well...…..
 
Buzzer777

Buzzer777

4,053
263
Yes, i heard that white is better than burple. I find that there are three lights that look like quantum board LED on Mars Hydro website. The price is decent. How do you think about this light?
If it's made by Mars..Not for me. I look for Samsung SMDs. Epistar chips are a poor substitute. (the ones used by some imports)
 
D

dumbthumb

21
3
i made some veg lights with these low end chinese leds
they work great.
i run them at 12-15 watts each. i run 3-4 in parallel on each driver. instead of heatsinks i bolt them on the backside of metal gang boxes with
M2.5 screws as they were cheap and work with the smaller 10w generic cobs as well.
i can run two of these clusters on an old 250W ATX supply from older P4 computers.
i am buiding a bigger light of 24 mostly warm color same model cobs.
 
Baudelaire

Baudelaire

17
13
i made some veg lights with these low end chinese leds
they work great.

i am buiding a bigger light of 24 mostly warm color same model cobs.

Those cheap COBs are good for playing around with to learn how to build COB systems but they have poor quality and efficiency. You'll find you are replacing burnt out or half-lit units and your efficiency (lumens/watt) will be lower than a decent HPS bulb. Make the small step up to Citizen or Luminus COB LEDs at about $5-8 per 50w COB and you'll have far better quality, spectrum and efficiency. Or move into LED rigid strip DIY with SolStrips. If you can wire and mount a $2 generic COB, you can build a SolStrip light, same process much better result.
 
420baby

420baby

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Now these look promising, especially the 6 panel unit.

Heavy, but promising.

The only downside here, is that it's almost impossible to pay safely through Alibaba, very shady people and lots of scams even through their 3 and 4 year certified companies. I've tried to order multiple times and always seems like I am being finessed.

This is also what i concerned about.:cry:
 
420baby

420baby

132
28
i made some veg lights with these low end chinese leds
they work great.
i run them at 12-15 watts each. i run 3-4 in parallel on each driver. instead of heatsinks i bolt them on the backside of metal gang boxes with
M2.5 screws as they were cheap and work with the smaller 10w generic cobs as well.
i can run two of these clusters on an old 250W ATX supply from older P4 computers.
i am buiding a bigger light of 24 mostly warm color same model cobs.
You are so handy. man. ;)
 
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