MICHGANDER9
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I don't worry about ppm Either in my water I have a Small boy filter or a RV hose filter good enough and actually pH naturally goes down if anything you probably raise it but it changes because of the types of microbes in your soil not enough of 1 and to many of others to provide that balanceSo if I ignore the ph, as you have suggested Michigander, what should I be on the lookout for in the event I need to start adding humic acid to the soil to lower PH? From what I understand, if there are problems, it will most likely be nutrient lock out, but which ones and symptoms should I be look for? I'm entering a critical time in these plants (flipping to flower tonight) and want to get it as right as I can.
As a reminder, our well water is at 8.0 ph with a high ppm, so the water distiller takes care of the ppm but not the PH. I have organic soil and using Roots Organics Terp Tea Grow and Bloom for all future amendments.
Ive been using the same soil in my 4x8 living Soil bed in the basement for well over a year now with a consistent good flavor and yeild of different strains using that philosophy it works Biochar is the secret ingredient to longevity soil useInoculate, inculcate, inculcate best advice I can give you ....worm castings,worm tea ,compost tea , Mycorrhizal fungi,and microbes
I'm not 100% sure what you mean by this Bro, but I have been doing worm castings throughout this grow, and the Roots Organics Terp Tea has the other ingredients you mention along with others. I have also encouraging the microbial growth by giving Molasses once a month so I hope to be going down the right road. Thanks for all your great help and advice!Inoculate, inculcate, inculcate best advice I can give you ....worm castings,worm tea ,compost tea , Mycorrhizal fungi,and microbes
Do NOT PH unless needed for mixing nutrients like potassium silicate.
Do NOT use baking soda
Citric acid is not needed and as said you do NOT need to ph nutrients.
USE AMENDMENTS to adjust soil PH such as hydrated lime, dolomite lime to raise and aluminum sulfate to lower PH.
Good question elduderito.....I get so confused with all the differing opinions. I have heard that PH in organic soil is meant to be used to monitor the trend of the soil and not necessarily the actual numbers. What say you Aqua Man?do you suggest ditching the ph meter altogether?
Read this it will explain it if you read closely.I've read so much contradictory info about PH with organics... when I feed with bottled biobizz nutes my ph ends up around 7ish - but if I want to feed plain water the ph is 8+ ... I ph everything to ~6.5 as it seems like having such a big fluctuation between feeds and plain water would be bad... do you suggest ditching the ph meter altogether?
No because you still want to know what going on in the media... so checking runoff periodically, doing a slurry test before using or if seeing an issue can help eliminate or enlighten you as to what's going on.Good question elduderito.....I get so confused with all the differing opinions. I have heard that PH in organic soil is meant to be used to monitor the trend of the soil and not necessarily the actual numbers. What say you Aqua Man?
If your pH is out of wack, on the high side, you'll see micronutrient deficiencies, like iron and zinc, near growing points — greenish yellow tops, darker green foliage on the rest of the plant.So if I ignore the ph, as you have suggested Michigander, what should I be on the lookout for in the event I need to start adding humic acid to the soil to lower PH? From what I understand, if there are problems, it will most likely be nutrient lock out, but which ones and symptoms should I be look for? I'm entering a critical time in these plants (flipping to flower tonight) and want to get it as right as I can.
As a reminder, our well water is at 8.0 ph with a high ppm, so the water distiller takes care of the ppm but not the PH. I have organic soil and using Roots Organics Terp Tea Grow and Bloom for all future amendments.
See the thing is is that the nuits might be there but it's not changed to a usable form because certain microbes live in a certain pH that do the change from nitrites to nitrates or vica versa I forget which way it is unless I look it up again the microbes take care of that for meIf your pH is out of wack, on the high side, you'll see micronutrient deficiencies, like iron and zinc, near growing points — greenish yellow tops, darker green foliage on the rest of the plant.
Only way to really know if it's low nuit or not is thru a soil testSee the thing is is that the nuits might be there but it's not changed to a usable form because certain microbes live in a certain pH that do the change from nitrites to nitrates or vica versa I forget which way it is unless I look it up again the microbes take care of that for me
Read the book " Teaming with microbes" by Jeff Lowenfel and or Dr Elaine Ingram can settle that argument I didn't say the same microbes I just said microbes different microbes do different things besides that the plant tells the microbes what it needs thru the exudates of the Roots into the rhiosphereOver inflating microbe population is not a good idea... innoculate yes but over inflation NO.... just because it's beneficial it's no different than anything else MORE IS NOT BETTER and can have negative consequences.
It's ammonia/ammonium depending on the PH as it lowers more shits to ammonium the available form then to nitrites and then to nitrates...See the thing is is that the nuits might be there but it's not changed to a usable form because certain microbes live in a certain pH that do the change from nitrites to nitrates or vica versa I forget which way it is unless I look it up again the microbes take care of that for me
I dont have to I know all about it. I'm not here to sell books. I'm here to explain why you need to understand the complete process. And yes while bennies are good an over inflation is NOT good.Read the book " Teaming with microbes" by Jeff Lowenfel and or Dr Elaine Ingram can settle that argument I didn't say the same microbes I just said microbes different microbes do different things besides that the plant tells the microbes what it needs thru the exudates of the Roots into the rhiosphere
Besides microbe is a general term it they could be bacteria,fungi,prozota, nematodes then the bigger part of the soil food web like hypsis miles mites and rove beetles,then you got worms and birds and so onRead the book " Teaming with microbes" by Jeff Lowenfel and or Dr Elaine Ingram can settle that argument I didn't say the same microbes I just said microbes different microbes do different things besides that the plant tells the microbes what it needs thru the exudates of the Roots into the rhiosphere
Not sure what your point is here? Yes they are but more is NOT always better.Besides microbe is a general term it they could be bacteria,fungi,prozota, nematodes then the bigger part of the soil food web like hypsis miles mites and rove beetles,then you got worms and birds and so on
My point is that you don't always add the same additives when you brew you compost teas like alfalfa is high in nitrogen but rock phosphate is high in phosphorus so the bacteria and stuff that likes those different things has the different microbes in itNot sure what your point is here? Yes they are but more is NOT always better.
Fungi likes a lower pH where as nitrogen fixing bacteria like more or a nominal or 7.0 phMy point is that you don't always add the same additives when you brew you compost teas like alfalfa is high in nitrogen but rock phosphate is high in phosphorus so the bacteria and stuff that likes those different things has the different microbes in it
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