Irie Seeds "Orange Gasm" under Gavita Pro 1700e LED's..........

[sshz]

Thats looking real nice @sshz

Have you found the plants staying healthier under the led?

I would say yes but there's reasons.............under the HPS, I really pushed the plants with a high ppm AND I wasn't defoliating which meant leaves were on the plants much longer with more chance to fade and die. I also wasn't flushing at all. So in the past, a build up off fertilizer lead to heavier weight overall but I'd say the plants weren't as healthy in the end. And I have been paying a lot of attention to this room, but in the prior crops I had it down so pat- I'd water every other day and have to do just about nothing else in the room.

Plus, plants directly under the lights usually suffered a bit of heat damage, although minor but these plants coloring often faded over time.

There's definitely differences, but I'm not sure it impacts final quality, probably just overall weight.

 

[MIMedGrower]

I would say yes but there's reasons.............under the HPS, I really pushed the plants with a high ppm AND I wasn't defoliating which meant leaves were on the plants much longer with more chance to fade and die. I also wasn't flushing at all. So in the past, a build up off fertilizer lead to heavier weight overall but I'd say the plants weren't as healthy in the end. And I have been paying a lot of attention to this room, but in the prior crops I had it down so pat- I'd water every other day and have to do just about nothing else in the room.

Plus, plants directly under the lights usually suffered a bit of heat damage, although minor but these plants coloring often faded over time.

There's definitely differences, but I'm not sure it impacts final quality, probably just overall weight.

Im sure you will be maxing out the led grow in time just like you learned to max out the hps. Seems a steep learning curve.

When i tried 315 cmh the fuller spectrum definitely changed some things. Keeping up with the extra photosynthesis gave a stronger greener longer plant. But also a shorter lower yielding one. Best results was with hps and cmh combined. I hope the extra reds in the new led’s have solved that.

 

[Frankster]

Doesn’t the cold basement floor keep the root zone to cold?

My guess is that the cooler basement floor would be a plus, IMO. Haven't roots in the ground evolved to remain much cooler than surface temperatures of the plants?


Roots take in water and some nutrients through the basic process of osmosis where water moves across a membrane into the cells of the plant because of differences in their respective ion concentrations. ... The temperature range is therefore smaller and the roots need to stay cooler.

 

[MIMedGrower]

My guess is that the cooler basement floor would be a plus, IMO. Haven't roots in the ground evolved to remain much cooler than surface temperatures of the plants?


Roots take in water and some nutrients through the basic process of osmosis where water moves across a membrane into the cells of the plant because of differences in their respective ion concentrations. ... The temperature range is therefore smaller and the roots need to stay cooler.

My open old pourous basement floor gets below 50 degrees and plants on it in a tent suffered root rot and other cold related purpling and yellowing.

Indoor plants are not hardened off to outside conditions as much.

 

[Frankster]

Im sure you will be maxing out the led grow in time just like you learned to max out the hps. Seems a steep learning curve.

When i tried 315 cmh the fuller spectrum definitely changed some things. Keeping up with the extra photosynthesis gave a stronger greener longer plant. But also a shorter lower yielding one. Best results was with hps and cmh combined. I hope the extra reds in the new led’s have solved that.

That's why I really like the dual switches on these new lights I have, I can tune the light more specifically for the task at hand. I've also got a few other lights that I can add at the end for added reds, especially in the last weeks.

I think a HPS/LED light hybrid would be interesting, or perhaps even some other combinations of light techniques mixed with LED's, the possibilities with LED's are endless with tuning specific waves of LED light, so I think this might become a big thing in the future.

The plants look really good BTW.

 

[Frankster]

My open old pourous basement floor gets below 50 degrees and plants on it in a tent suffered root rot and other cold related purpling and yellowing.

Indoor plants are not hardened off to outside conditions as much.

Yea, to be sure 50 degrees is far too cold, I didn't realize basements got that cool in the summertime. I was figuring 60-65 at the lowest, which would translate to slightly higher of whatever is sitting on top of it.

Me and aqua have discussed this a little and certainly he's more experience than I. I think he said 72 as being optimal, whereas, I've gone down to 68-70's before, out of fear of the havoc higher temp can cause, and the added oxygen capacity of lower temps, but there's got to be a sweet spot, and I suspect he's probably right on, when he states 72-75 as that "zone."

 

[MIMedGrower]

Yea, to be sure 50 degrees is far too cold, I didn't realize basements got that cool in the summertime.

No. Not in the summer but here it can go right cold pretty early. I was caught way off guard here when i bought the house and found the basement had big problems.

I have no spare rooms upstair now. Both are grow rooms.

 

[sshz]

MY house is built on a hill, not a big one, but still a hill so the water drains well away from it. As with most houses, my hot water heater and HVAC system is in the basement, about 10-12 feet from the room. The basement is well insulated, as is the grow room. I added the rubber mats previously mentioned thinking by getting the plants up off the ground might improve things- I noticed no change whats-so-ever. The basement area, about 1350 sq. ft., runs pretty warm. So much so that when I finished it out, I only put in two vents blowing into the entire room from the ceiling because 1) the damn room got too warm (especially in the winter) and 2) I'd rather have the heat up on the next floor blowing harder. The top floor of the house has it's own HVAC, the entire house is about 4200 sq. ft.

My point is being up on a hill means the house isn't sitting on the "normal" ground, which I believe probably helps with the floor temps. Maybe I'm wrong about this, but I don't think so. Now, with the dehumidifier blowing warm air around thru the night, it should stay comfortable, even in the dead of winter. In my old room I would put a small heater in the room in Jan/Feb/Mar if I felt things were too cold, but it rarely happened. Also, by watering in the evening, I felt it gave to pots a buffer against the cold.

I could be totally wrong about this, but I think not. I'm not sure what symptoms would show with the cold conditions, but if i was having issues- I would have researched it and found the cause.

 

[Milson]

Guessing you and mmg have slightly different winters too.

 

[Frankster]

No. Not in the summer but here it can go right cold pretty early. I was caught way off guard here when i bought the house and found the basement had big problems.

I have no spare rooms upstair now. Both are grow rooms.

Yea, I suspect basement grows present a whole new set of problems in themselves, especially with any kind of molds and the many things that tend to dwell in that kind of setting. Really is probably a learning curve in itself, as the environment is so much different from working above the surface. Temps, humidity and different types of pestilence are probably present a whole new set of variables.

 

[MIMedGrower]

Yea, I suspect basement grows present a whole new set of problems in themselves, especially with any kind of molds and the many things that tend to dwell in that kind of setting. Really is probably a learning curve in itself, as the environment is so much different from working above the surface. Temps, humidity and different types of pestilence are probably present a whole new set of variables.

Point is. Every grow is different. Even every basement grow.

 

[Puregas1]

Someone else is growing it, 7 days in flowering........View attachment 979765

Brother can you send me link for them led

 

[sshz]

PureGas...........read thru this entire thread, I've put up a ton of info about the lights including the manufacturers website that includes links to everyone that sells them. I bought mine at Growershouse.com because of the discount and free shipping, but others may be cheaper. You need to do a search and find out who has them in stock, if anyone, because last I heard, everyone was over a month out before getting them back in stock. Go to Gavita.com to find out more about them though, but they don't sell them, others do it for them I believe. Again, read thru the thread for plenty of info..................

 

[sshz]

And I'm in Maryland on the water, so the winters stay pretty mild. We didn't get a drop of snow last year, not a speck. That's not to say it isn't cold, but it's surely not bad like some of you canucks get............

 

[Moshmen]

MY house is built on a hill, not a big one, but still a hill so the water drains well away from it. As with most houses, my hot water heater and HVAC system is in the basement, about 10-12 feet from the room. The basement is well insulated, as is the grow room. I added the rubber mats previously mentioned thinking by getting the plants up off the ground might improve things- I noticed no change whats-so-ever. The basement area, about 1350 sq. ft., runs pretty warm. So much so that when I finished it out, I only put in two vents blowing into the entire room from the ceiling because 1) the damn room got too warm (especially in the winter) and 2) I'd rather have the heat up on the next floor blowing harder. The top floor of the house has it's own HVAC, the entire house is about 4200 sq. ft.

My point is being up on a hill means the house isn't sitting on the "normal" ground, which I believe probably helps with the floor temps. Maybe I'm wrong about this, but I don't think so. Now, with the dehumidifier blowing warm air around thru the night, it should stay comfortable, even in the dead of winter. In my old room I would put a small heater in the room in Jan/Feb/Mar if I felt things were too cold, but it rarely happened. Also, by watering in the evening, I felt it gave to pots a buffer against the cold.

I could be totally wrong about this, but I think not. I'm not sure what symptoms would show with the cold conditions, but if i was having issues- I would have researched it and found the cause.

It’s the rubber mats that insulate from the cold cement floor.

 

[Milson]

It’s the rubber mats that insulate from the cold cement floor.

I thought he detailed pretty extensively how his basement floor isn't that cold...

 

[sshz]

Here's someone's grow of Sweet Zombie, after 4 weeks veg and in 7th week of flowering. Topped once in week 4...........

 

[Milson]

Here's someone's grow of Sweet Zombie, after 4 weeks veg and in 7th week of flowering. Topped once in week 4...........

View attachment 1019941

What do you think the yield would be on that girl?

 

[sshz]

The buds on the strain were tight and solid...... after looking at it, and with 2-3 more weeks to go IF you let them go long, my guess is 3 1/2 oz, maybe a bit more. Maybe a lot more.

I didn't top mine when I grew it, and each plant put off monster center cola. The big issue with them was they are incredible leafy, just like the Orange Gasm. Everything low was severely block so no light reached down below at all. I threw trash bags full of fluff away, absolutely the most of any strain I've ever grown. Bags and bags full of it. That's why I wanted to grow this one again, to give it a fair chance to perform better and do it justice.

If I do these next, I would top once and have to think about the proper times to defoliate. The leaves on the Sweeet Zombie were bigger than on the O.G., much more indica like. Very BIG sun leaves, BIG wide blades too.

I'll be able to report the above plants final weight when it's finished, so we won't be in the dark about it.......but it could be a couple more weeks of growing and then it has to dry.

 

[sshz]

By the way, that I forgot to mention that Sweet Zombie plant above had a veg period of OVER 8 weeks........... which is a little worrisome. It's a slow grower in veg obviously, if you top it- it slows it down even more.