Is this calcium def or nitrogen?

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Diesel21

Diesel21

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I’m getting these rusty looking spots and the leaves are lime green. This is hydro feeding 3 times a day. 4 weeks from seed 550 tds 5.5-6.1ph. Room temp 79-80 with an RH of 57-60. Co2 is 900 ppm.
Is this calcium def or nitrogen
Is this calcium def or nitrogen 2
 
Diesel21

Diesel21

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Also I’m using tap water that is 70-80ppm with a ph around 7 after it goes through a boogy brew inline filter. I’m using just gh maxigrow at the moment.
 
Grapefruitroop

Grapefruitroop

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I would say mainly neither of those...i mean, they could def use more N but the first looks like saltburn and the second like a genetic variegated leaves variety....
But wait also for others opinions of hydro peeps....
good luck
 
revfunk

revfunk

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rust explained.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

rust, how many of you have had this and been beaten by it? lots i bet!!!
first, rust is a fungi. it is opportunist. it preys on unwell plants. if something is a miss, rust is a sign. rust has been identified to have 7,000 species. it attacks crops of every description. but we're only interested in one variety arn't we?
if rust is present early in a grow, you have problems as it's an indicator something in your room is a miss. usually ventilation. go through your system and double check things are in place and working properly.
rust is an air borne fungi. if given the opportunity, it WILL take hold. it usually does during flower as this is when the plants immune system is at its weakest as its energies are concentrating on re-production, not survival.
depending on what part of the grow you get it, you can cure/minimize it with either chemical or natural remedies.
it enters the leaf via the stomata and then it's off and running.
fungacides used are generally copper based and include; thriram, manzecob, maneb or zineb at 10 day intervills.
organic;
baking soda, 1 tea spoon/ quart of water. spray on.
copper sulphate, read lables.
fungacidal soap sprays;
garlic sprays, 1/2 cup minced garlic, 1 quart of water. let sit 24hrs, strain, spray.
sulphur, one of the best natural sprays. it is low in toxicity.
micro kill, a citric based killer. i use this with great success

Just throwing this up as it's good info to have.

Cheers!
 
BurnzYzBudZz

BurnzYzBudZz

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I was going to say nitrogen def. not 100% sure though. Not a hydro guy either.
 
Diesel21

Diesel21

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How would I be getting salt burn? The hydroton has only been used one other time and I cleaned it before I used it again. Could it be the powdered nutrients?
 
Jimster

Jimster

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It looks like a tad too much nutrients to me. The bloated look often comes from higher salt levels... most nutrients are in the salt form to make them water soluble. When I start to see the twist on the main lobe of a leaf, P or K overages is my first suspect. I'm not a hydro guy so I can't offer much more than a diagnosis based on the appearance and my experience over the years. It could easily be something that is different than what I said, since I use Promix and the causes could be different. But... this is just my opinion.
 
Dirtbag

Dirtbag

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What ppm/ec are you feeding? at what ph?

Is that all they're in is a smart pot of hydro corn? If so I think you need to irrigate way more than just 3 times a day. It's not like rockwool.
 
Last edited:
Dirtbag

Dirtbag

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How would I be getting salt burn? The hydroton has only been used one other time and I cleaned it before I used it again. Could it be the powdered nutrients?

No, maxigrow is a fairly clean hydroponic nutrient.

You could be getting nutrient burn if your rocks are drying up between irrigations. The water evaporates and leaves the salt behind. And that will happen with liquid nutrients or dry.

Fair notice, I've never grown in hydroton, just pointing out what jumps out to me.
 
Beachwalker

Beachwalker

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Also I’m using tap water that is 70-80ppm with a ph around 7 after it goes through a boogy brew inline filter. I’m using just gh maxigrow at the moment.
A ph of around 7 is too high for hydro, adjust it to 5.8 and your plant should green up, good luck!
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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No, maxigrow is a fairly clean hydroponic nutrient.

You could be getting nutrient burn if your rocks are drying up between irrigations. The water evaporates and leaves the salt behind. And that will happen with liquid nutrients or dry.

Fair notice, I've never grown in hydroton, just pointing out what jumps out to me.
100% agree. But I don't see any top feed system so I'm confused... It's looks like DWC system but who knows if they are attempting this by hand?
 
Diesel21

Diesel21

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Sorry the tap water s 7ph before adjusting. It’s and ebb and flow bucket system w a 1” rw cube in a 5 gallon bucket of hydroton. As for feeding I just up the nutes to 550 ppm 500 scale. I monitor my ph constantly. It’s always between 5.5 and 6.1. also a couple plants are showing signs of overwatering so I don’t think the medium is drying out. I can take some more pics if that helps
 
growsince79

growsince79

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Lights are hlg 600 quantum’s. They are about 36” above plants. the lux at plant tops is between 18k-28k which s between 260-400 ppfd according to hlg calculator.
Imo 550ppm is not enough. The brighter the light the more food the plants need.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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Imo 550ppm is not enough. The brighter the light the more food the plants need.
Agree and disagree yes they use more food but that comes from the increased transportation rates.

It's definitely as @Dirtbag said not fertigating often enough. In a system like that I would flood and drain ever hour? I'm not a flood and drain guy but that is your issue
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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Lights are hlg 600 quantum’s. They are about 36” above plants. the lux at plant tops is between 18k-28k which s between 260-400 ppfd according to hlg calculator.
I think your light is fine... But in time of plant stress lowering light and increasing humidity for a few day will lower the stress and allow it to recover faster.
 

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