The brown algae doesn't really care that much about low temps or oxygen in the water. That shit doesnt even need light...but still make sure your bins are light blocked.
for your best chance at success..prevention is the main thing. A chiller should be at the top of your list..but I don't run any. My temps rarely hot 70 and never go above. I DO run DM Zone and SM90 on a rotational basis.
For ME..I run sterile reses and don't want ANYTHING alive or organic in there. If I re-use a system (tubs, hoses, fittings, pumps...) I run Physan20 and Bleach and H2O2 (not together obviously) through the system. I have DIY systems so replacing everything every second run is inexpensive and affords a lot of POM.
I've never had brown algae but thought I had it once. I have
Great White and EWC on my shelves for just such an occasion. I brewed up a couple gallons of tea but by the time the 48hours it takes to brew had elapsed I had found the real problem. It was caused by tap water I had to use after a flood. Don't know why but roots started turning color. Went back to RO and though the discolored roots stayed tanned, new white growth resumed.
So yeah...for ME..Hydroponics and Organics just do NOT mix..especially in DWC or RDWC. Run DM Zone and or SM90 to maintain a sterile (dead) reservoir. Keep light out. Keep the temps low. Keep oxygenated. Use RO water. Keep a bottle of Physan20, H2O2,
Great White, and EWC on the shelf.
AND...if you have brown algae, use the benes. Do bear in mind though that I am not speaking with experience about brown algae. I researched the HELL out of it when I thought I had it and what I'm suggesting is only what I learned. I do NOT have first hand experience with the BA. I DO have experience with hydro and RDWC and I can say from experience that a sterile, cool, dark, oxygenated res will keep most pathogens at bay.