Issues with first grow. Whole thing doomed already?

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TSD

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Plus, my biggest worry with my current auto grow was size. She started out small and bushy. I thought she was going to end up bonsai sized...Lol.

We watch these plants grow daily and can worry about everything under the sun as we watch the grass grow. Things will get more comfortable as time goes on and you get to know your plants more. I check out my chick 3-4 times a day, blow in her ear and whisper sweet nothings to her as well during every visit ๐Ÿ˜Ž.
I'm glad I'm not the only one that talks to my plants lol... hey they like the CO2 right? I'm not a crazy plant lady... it's science. ๐Ÿคทโ€โ™€๏ธ
 
Moshmen

Moshmen

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And aren't autos small over all as well? I've never grown one but every pic of them I've seen, they are like little bonsai babies lol.
Depends on skill level and genetics I grab about 2 dried zips off a plant in a 8-12โ€ nursery pot but I donโ€™t grow for size just filling space and extra smoke
 
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TSD

TSD

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Depends on skill level and genetics I grab about 2 dried zips off a plant in a 8-12โ€ nursery pot but I donโ€™t grow for size just filling space and extra smoke
I might do one if I get bored this winter since I got some free auto seeds... if my husband doesn't put the kibosh on it since we have enough smoke for... well years lol.
 
nekkul

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Autos are just autos. I haven't grown in over 20 years and I am growing a beast of an auto right now. Tell me this looks like a bonsai?

View attachment 1189249

This is in a 32" x 32" tent and she is almost at capacity for width.

View attachment 1189250

Sure autos have less room for error than photos but honestly they are not much different in regards to growing. I know folks have mixed feelings on em but as my first auto grow goes, I am stoked to harvest her soon and go "Whomp Whomp!" When I post her harvest pics ๐Ÿ˜

Your plants do look very wet. Taking images with the light off will help also. There is so much yellow from the light that it's hard to actually tell what's going on with the leaves. Try a dark shot with just the camera flash.

Also, are you flushing or just skipping the feeding like every other water or so?

I rarely skip feedings and only flush during the last week or so before harvest. I do skip feeding some times depending on what the plant is telling me also but there is no reason to flush unless you made a big nute mistake. Trying to tame your PH though, I can see that.

Check out my auto Bruce Banner grow and progress. It's not from day one but it has some good details in it and can give you an idea of the progression of autos. Don't give em up! They will likely surprise you ๐Ÿ˜‰
I'm absolutely going to take a close look on your Bruce Banner grow. Damn, that strain I'm hopefully someday growing myself too ๐Ÿ˜
I've had nearly awkward-level misunderstanding with the meaning of flushing. Must be cause english ain't my native-language (thought you all figured that already ๐Ÿ˜„).
My so called flushings have been just waterings. In the beginning of week 3, I realized I had been watering not like I should've been; I kept on watering same way as seedlings, just some round around plant, not the whole soil. I was so afraid to overwater like all the newbies, as they say.
So I begun to water the whole-soil every time I watered, which was & still is roughly once in 3-4 days. I've been trying to spot the need to water by putting my finger in soil and watered, if I've felt just barely moistyness on the tip of my finger.
I'm worried that the failed watering-habits caused some lack on root development, since I didn't water the soil throughoutly at the beginning of veg state.
What i'm doing from this on, is
- nothing but water for a week from today
- lifting and comparing pot weight on similar, really dry pot, to tell when should water.
- I already added today sort of support-structures under every pot, to make sure there is some air under the pots.
- I'm focusing on trying to find a way to low PH and keep it under 7. I have GHA Ph Down-liquid, which is so strong I had to test and test first many times to find the right amount to use. But, for some reason it doesnt feel good to use it?
I've been thinking to fix pH with coffee grounds and maybe even with coffee, as a liquid containing 50% of normal coffee and 50% of pH neutral water. I'd add it a little bit on soil before/after waterings?
My coffee-vision might be way too low-effective treatment, specially since i just spotted something new on lower leaves of one of the pre-flowering Mimosas.
Calcium/Magnesium defiency, caused by pH issue? Or heat stress, since one other plant has mildly yellowish tips on new growth?
Or some lack of copper? What do you think?
Thank you for boosting my coinfidence to keep up with this. Not going to give up, absolutely not, but i'm scared to find them all dead some day there.
And that brown stuff on the soil is coffee grounds ๐Ÿ˜‚ wasnt sure how it should be added.
 
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MichiganHooligan

MichiganHooligan

I just wet my plants...
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I'm absolutely going to take a close look on your Bruce Banner grow. Damn, that strain I'm hopefully someday growing myself too ๐Ÿ˜
I've had nearly awkward-level misunderstanding with the meaning of flushing. Must be cause english ain't my native-language (thought you all figured that already ๐Ÿ˜„).
My so called flushings have been just waterings. In the beginning of week 3, I realized I had been watering not like I should've been; I kept on watering same way as seedlings, just some round around plant, not the whole soil. I was so afraid to overwater like all the newbies, as they say.
So I begun to water the whole-soil every time I watered, which was & still is roughly once in 3-4 days. I've been trying to spot the need to water by putting my finger in soil and watered, if I've felt just barely moistyness on the tip of my finger.
I'm worried that the failed watering-habits caused some lack on root development, since I didn't water the soil throughoutly at the beginning of veg state.
What i'm doing from this on, is
- nothing but water for a week from today
- lifting and comparing pot weight on similar, really dry pot, to tell when should water.
- I already added today sort of support-structures under every pot, to make sure there is some air under the pots.
- I'm focusing on trying to find a way to low PH and keep it under 7. I have GHA Ph Down-liquid, which is so strong I had to test and test first many times to find the right amount to use. But, for some reason it doesnt feel good to use it?
I've been thinking to fix pH with coffee grounds and maybe even with coffee, as a liquid containing 50% of normal coffee and 50% of pH neutral water. I'd add it a little bit on soil before/after waterings?
My coffee-vision might be way too low-effective treatment, specially since i just spotted something new on lower leaves of one of the pre-flowering Mimosas.
Calcium/Magnesium defiency, caused by pH issue? Or heat stress, since one other plant has mildly yellowish tips on new growth?
Or some lack of copper? What do you think?
Thank you for boosting my coinfidence to keep up with this. Not going to give up, absolutely not, but i'm scared to find them all dead some day there.
And that brown stuff on the soil is coffee grounds ๐Ÿ˜‚ wasnt sure how it should be added.
Don't rely on the pot weight for now. Buy a cheap moisture monitor off Amazon and use that. Check this out:


How are you testing PH? Have you tested the PH of your water plain and simple? Where does that stand? Coffee may cause too much acidity so I would be careful with that. I've never used it for weed but it can really acidify the soil and will be extremely hard to correct as you can't flush it out. 2ml of GHA PH Down/gal works perfect for my water. Very little is needed.

The tips in my opinion are heat or light related. How close is your light to the plant? Those spots most definitely look like light burn from water drops on the leaves. Be careful about watering so you don't get any water on the leaves.

Are you using CalMag? If not I would suggest it at a rate of 5ml/gal and at every watering.

I'm not familiar with the nutes you use but always start at least 1/2 strength to see how the plant does and then move it up slowly to the recommended dosage.
 
nekkul

nekkul

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Don't rely on the pot weight for now. Buy a cheap moisture monitor off Amazon and use that. Check this out:


How are you testing PH? Have you tested the PH of your water plain and simple? Where does that stand? Coffee may cause too much acidity so I would be careful with that. I've never used it for weed but it can really acidify the soil and will be extremely hard to correct as you can't flush it out. 2ml of GHA PH Down/gal works perfect for my water. Very little is needed.

The tips in my opinion are heat or light related. How close is your light to the plant? Those spots most definitely look like light burn from water drops on the leaves. Be careful about watering so you don't get any water on the leaves.

Are you using CalMag? If not I would suggest it at a rate of 5ml/gal and at every watering.

I'm not familiar with the nutes you use but always start at least 1/2 strength to see how the plant does and then move it up slowly to the recommended dosage.
I do have a monitor which meters amount of light, the moistyness of growing medium and pH. It tends to show 7 pH, sometimes even a bit more. I test the pH amount of water with pH testing kit, and compare the colour of liquid on the test chart. It's usually exactly same green as charts pH 7.
I've been struggling to find out the proper pH for water, I mean, I'm not sure how much difference theres okay to be, between the amount of pH in soil and pH in water. Would make sense (?) to make pH go down fast & surely if water would have really down pH, like something above 4? Feels uncomfortable to do such things?
CalMag i have, thought I've only given it once and really small dosage. It was interesting to read your Bruce Banner-grow, I was like ?!?! when reading about the amounts of nutes you gave for her. Comparing to that, i've been growing basically almost without any nutes! I feel i've been overly-careful when trying to avoid overfeeding.
I use to spray some water on leaves after feedings to avoid leaves getting those drops of nutered water on them. Maybe this time i wasnt careful enough when watering with that pH'd water today? Or what else caused them so rapidly?
I moved that Mimosa - one with those spotties - further from the light, she was just straight below it before.
HPS is 80cm's from the highest canopys.
 
MichiganHooligan

MichiganHooligan

I just wet my plants...
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I do have a monitor which meters amount of light, the moistyness of growing medium and pH. It tends to show 7 pH, sometimes even a bit more. I test the pH amount of water with pH testing kit, and compare the colour of liquid on the test chart. It's usually exactly same green as charts pH 7.
I've been struggling to find out the proper pH for water, I mean, I'm not sure how much difference theres okay to be, between the amount of pH in soil and pH in water. Would make sense (?) to make pH go down fast & surely if water would have really down pH, like something above 4? Feels uncomfortable to do such things?
CalMag i have, thought I've only given it once and really small dosage. It was interesting to read your Bruce Banner-grow, I was like ?!?! when reading about the amounts of nutes you gave for her. Comparing to that, i've been growing basically almost without any nutes! I feel i've been overly-careful when trying to avoid overfeeding.
I use to spray some water on leaves after feedings to avoid leaves getting those drops of nutered water on them. Maybe this time i wasnt careful enough when watering with that pH'd water today? Or what else caused them so rapidly?
I moved that Mimosa - one with those spotties - further from the light, she was just straight below it before.
HPS is 80cm's from the highest canopys.

So 7 is a neutral PH. 7+ is more Alkaline and 7- is more Acidic. As @Dirtbag said though, 6-6.5 is ideal. I generally shoot for 5.5-6 myself though.

This. And that high ph wasn't helping. Get that down to around 6-6.5, and let the pot dry more before watering.

Does your soil have any Lime in it? These are typically used as buffers for PH. Testing the runoff water from your soil will give you an approximation of the soil PH. I typically account for +0.5-1.0 difference in run off water. That's if you water really slowly.

I'd say never foliar spray during lights on but that defeats the expected outcome. So I say never foliar spray at all. The plant will actually uptake more evaporated water through the leaves via evaporation from the substrate (if soil). Keep the leaves dry. If you spill, wipe off the drop.

80cm (31in) from the canopy seems high but you are using HPS lights. I use LEDs and the two are completely different so I can't talk much here except that I know HPS lights produce a gross amount of heat IIRC.
 
TSD

TSD

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I'd definitely be careful putting coffee as a top dressing... I add it when I make my soil, but probably like a few cups across a ton of soil... like probably a few hundred gallons... I dunno, I eyeball my mix... but I also let it bake in tubs in the sun for like 2 months so it can chill out. That was my long winded way of saying coffee grounds go a long way... and I always use used coffee grounds as well, cause they're that intense lol.
 
nekkul

nekkul

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I'd definitely be careful putting coffee as a top dressing... I add it when I make my soil, but probably like a few cups across a ton of soil... like probably a few hundred gallons... I dunno, I eyeball my mix... but I also let it bake in tubs in the sun for like 2 months so it can chill out. That was my long winded way of saying coffee grounds go a long way... and I always use used coffee grounds as well, cause they're that intense lol.
Luckily I only add it on the top of soil, so I can take it all away now after reading this ๐Ÿ˜‚ Though the grounds were dry as dust now when I checked and pH had gotten down just barely noticeably.
Testing pH from runoff is my next thing to do, if daily monitoring aint counted; though it'll happen only after soil has gotten dry enough for next watering.
Ever used pine in order to down pH ? Like, pine needles, if that's the correct word?
I'd try lime but the thing is, I wont be able to get it - I live in isolated arctic area. Nearest grocery-shop is behind more than 80km's and sells mainly tuna, matches etc very baisics.
 
nekkul

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And hey about those spots - which btw has stayed just as they were when I noticed them yesterday - should they be seen on the upper leaves to be most likely caused by cal/mag defience? Since they're on mid-and low-area of the plant.
I'm telling myself just to cool down and keep an eye on them (not like around the clock though๐Ÿ˜) instead of adding anything/trying anything. They aren't getting anything but water, when next time needed, until day 37. Ofc checking pH & monitoring them daily.
And about that water-spraying ๐Ÿคฆ! I'm just reliefed I decided to ask your opinion in here, since I didnt know (together with other points and knowledge I've got from here) that affect when spraying water on leaves.
 
TSD

TSD

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I have not tried pine, all I know is that my pine trees kill my grass lol. It's hard to use organic stuff like that after the fact, like after they are planted, because it needs time to break down in the soil to be usable and less strong. You could do an experiment and maybe soak some pine needles in water, test the water first then test ph at intervals... but there could be other compounds in the pine that would have unknown effects on the plants... maybe someone else has a thought. What did you say your water ph was going in? I personally do not fuck with my ph, my water is well water, a little hard, but in the ok range. I don't test ph runoff or any of that, but like I said, mine are only indoors for about 3 months prior to spring. I test my water occasionally just to make sure it hasn't gone wonky. Ph is more of an issue in coco I think... perhaps if your water is not the best, there is a local spring you could grab water from for your ladies? I know you said you are in an Artic climate, so maybe not... I live in a mountainous area and there are three natural springs in my area that have been tapped with a pipe straight into the ground and they give pure clean water all year long. I'm less a scientific grower and more of a do what the plants tell me they need grower, because I'm a gardner of many things so that's just how I do, I try not to overthink. I have been guilty of over mothering in the past. As far as the leaves, they will not recover or heal, once they are damaged, they stay damaged, unless it is just in need of nitrogen, in which case you can watch the plant take it from the leaves and they will start to yellow, then watch them return to green after feeding... but that appears to me to either be necrosis (death of the leaf in certain areas) caused by overwatering indicating the possibility of the start of root rot, or light burn caused by too intense light or the magnifying of the light by water droplets... but don't take that as gospel, I don't claim to be an expert, just like to give my two cents lol. Like I said I've never personally grown an auto, but they still need the same basics. Some people swear by cal mag, honestly this is the first year I have used it and only because it came with my trio of nutrients (Dutch Science) I used it twice in veg and once when they were outside before flower. I've never used it in the past, but as I use what I guess is called a "super soil", I've never had any issues. I try to stay as organic as possible, Dutch Science is an organic powder nutrient, I don't use any heavily chemical stuff, even for pests. Even my vegetable and flower gardens only get fish emulsion or seaweed based fertilizer, which I also give to the girls a few times a year to stretch the Dutch Science cause that shit is expensive lol, and because they seem to enjoy it. The ladies get veg nutes in veg because I use plain promix(the organic version) to start inside, then they go in the ground in their prepared holes and don't need to be fed for a few weeks, usually close to when flower begins, then I start the bloom nutes usually only once a week. My point was, cal mag seems to be a cure all answer sometimes, but don't pump them full off too much of anything if they don't need it. Keep asking questions and the folks here will share thier experiences, but there's no substitute for hands on experience. ๐Ÿ˜Š
 
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BirdLaw86

BirdLaw86

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Warning on the calmag fix, be careful not to over do it. According to the gurus I speak with, they just told me last night that calcium can be a bitch in excessive amounts, try the MG first, epsom salt is great for this. I just added a half teaspoon to my gallon of water and gave the plant a light foliar feed and then the rest into the soil. No calcium was mixed in, my rookie ass went and added in my water soluable calcium 2 weeks ago and caused small issues with color in the leaves. So after that I just fed water to rinse her roots a bit, worked well to clear excess calcium BUT mine was water soluable so it washed out easily....then i asked the gurus, the identified the issue and MG was the solution.

Id say a big NO to the fresh pine needles, itd be a yes if they were composted. If you have no other solutions for the PH, i would wait for a guy named @Aqua Man ...as far as im concerned, hes a fuckin genius pertaining to all things cannibus and he is your best bet on fixing these issues. I know hes a bit busy and tied up atm but hes a great guy who likes helping newbies to get things together, i suggest taking his info step by step...ask him for the dumbed down version of how to fix this otherwise it might seem like hes speaking in matrix codes....the scientific explanations can be alot to absorb..until then try and be patient young patawan ๐Ÿฆ…

Oh and NO COFFEE ๐Ÿ˜‚
 
nekkul

nekkul

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I have not tried pine, all I know is that my pine trees kill my grass lol. It's hard to use organic stuff like that after the fact, like after they are planted, because it needs time to break down in the soil to be usable and less strong. You could do an experiment and maybe soak some pine needles in water, test the water first then test ph at intervals... but there could be other compounds in the pine that would have unknown effects on the plants... maybe someone else has a thought. What did you say your water ph was going in? I personally do not fuck with my ph, my water is well water, a little hard, but in the ok range. I don't test ph runoff or any of that, but like I said, mine are only indoors for about 3 months prior to spring. I test my water occasionally just to make sure it hasn't gone wonky. Ph is more of an issue in coco I think... perhaps if your water is not the best, there is a local spring you could grab water from for your ladies? I know you said you are in an Artic climate, so maybe not... I live in a mountainous area and there are three natural springs in my area that have been tapped with a pipe straight into the ground and they give pure clean water all year long. I'm less a scientific grower and more of a do what the plants tell me they need grower, because I'm a gardner of many things so that's just how I do, I try not to overthink. I have been guilty of over mothering in the past. As far as the leaves, they will not recover or heal, once they are damaged, they stay damaged, unless it is just in need of nitrogen, in which case you can watch the plant take it from the leaves and they will start to yellow, then watch them return to green after feeding... but that appears to me to either be necrosis (death of the leaf in certain areas) caused by overwatering indicating the possibility of the start of root rot, or light burn caused by too intense light or the magnifying of the light by water droplets... but don't take that as gospel, I don't claim to be an expert, just like to give my two cents lol. Like I said I've never personally grown an auto, but they still need the same basics. Some people swear by cal mag, honestly this is the first year I have used it and only because it came with my trio of nutrients (Dutch Science) I used it twice in veg and once when they were outside before flower. I've never used it in the past, but as I use what I guess is called a "super soil", I've never had any issues. I try to stay as organic as possible, Dutch Science is an organic powder nutrient, I don't use any heavily chemical stuff, even for pests. Even my vegetable and flower gardens only get fish emulsion or seaweed based fertilizer, which I also give to the girls a few times a year to stretch the Dutch Science cause that shit is expensive lol, and because they seem to enjoy it. The ladies get veg nutes in veg because I use plain promix(the organic version) to start inside, then they go in the ground in their prepared holes and don't need to be fed for a few weeks, usually close to when flower begins, then I start the bloom nutes usually only once a week. My point was, cal mag seems to be a cure all answer sometimes, but don't pump them full off too much of anything if they don't need it. Keep asking questions and the folks here will share thier experiences, but there's no substitute for hands on experience. ๐Ÿ˜Š
You've given a whole load of great information to me. My thoughts about super synthetic nutes (used throughout the process and times when plant needs added nutes) seem to be in line with yours, I also like to take care and use plants without highly sciencitical touch. Ofc in the end, it's all science even when going 100% naturally, but you know what I mean.
What you said about those pine needles etc. very organic ways to control pH, made a lot sense. It should ne there in soil at the beginning, and they do their job during longer time.
But how about trying to control pH using plain coffee, mixed with pH neutral water like 50/50 both of them? Coffee contains also nitrogen? Of course the effect should be first tried with plantless pot before adding it on soil where my girls are growing.
My cabin is on a beach of small lake, but surely lake-water would be way too full of everything, to be considered as watering-water. Though i know you meant different sort of water, pure fountain-water. The water I'm using is from a underground fountain, from my own well. Also there is those super nice fell-fountains, running down the sides of fells. Should I try it, after checking pH? Would love to water these with that water!
PH has been above from 6,9, sometimes close to 8! Yesterday, just before I took those photos on this topic, I watered plants heavily with waters pH set rather low; testing colour was yellow/bit reddish. Still nothing changed?
I'm going to take better photos without hps on, as recommended earlier here & load them here if they would give better information.
Thanks alot for your time with this ๐ŸŒป๐Ÿ€โ˜€๏ธ
 
nekkul

nekkul

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Warning on the calmag fix, be careful not to over do it. According to the gurus I speak with, they just told me last night that calcium can be a bitch in excessive amounts, try the MG first, epsom salt is great for this. I just added a half teaspoon to my gallon of water and gave the plant a light foliar feed and then the rest into the soil. No calcium was mixed in, my rookie ass went and added in my water soluable calcium 2 weeks ago and caused small issues with color in the leaves. So after that I just fed water to rinse her roots a bit, worked well to clear excess calcium BUT mine was water soluable so it washed out easily....then i asked the gurus, the identified the issue and MG was the solution.

Id say a big NO to the fresh pine needles, itd be a yes if they were composted. If you have no other solutions for the PH, i would wait for a guy named @Aqua Man ...as far as im concerned, hes a fuckin genius pertaining to all things cannibus and he is your best bet on fixing these issues. I know hes a bit busy and tied up atm but hes a great guy who likes helping newbies to get things together, i suggest taking his info step by step...ask him for the dumbed down version of how to fix this otherwise it might seem like hes speaking in matrix codes....the scientific explanations can be alot to absorb..until then try and be patient young patawan ๐Ÿฆ…

Oh and NO COFFEE ๐Ÿ˜‚
Oh I saw this immediatly after sending my latest reply; there I was still considering that coffee ๐Ÿ˜„
I decided to wait till I get some good information before adding calmag, which feels really good decision now after reading your comment!
I have GHA's pH Down-liquid, which is 59% phosphoric acid. I'm not comfortable using it, i'm afraid i damage my girls with too rapidly low pH'd watering.
I'm looking forward to hear thoughts from that mr Aquaman, if he happens to be able to take a look at this. I'm going to ask less-scientifical terminology if cant otherwise follow, since I already need to really think to understand what people are saying & to write understandably myself.
What I've learned so far, is that these natural processes cannot be rushed or forced and plant needs to do her plant-things without me being there and thinking and looking at every single spot with a microscope. But aint still easy to be really actually cool with this.
Though, good things ain't usually easy ๐Ÿ˜
Thank you so much for all this!
 
lvstealth

lvstealth

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did i read right? you have several plants in a pot?

you only have one that is a single plant in a pot?

thats gonna cause issues.

you put most in 3 gallon pots, but there are some in 1.5 gallon pots, the pot size goes a long way toward yield in an auto.

i am pro autos for learning and while accumulating the equipment and knowledge to control the required dark cycle for photos.

i run both pretty equally. i mean, why not? i have a 12/12 tent and a 18/6 tent so i fill them up.

theyve come a long way baby on autos, they are just cannabis plants, not space aliens
 
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nekkul

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did i read right? you have several plants in a pot?

you only have one that is a single plant in a pot?

thats gonna cause issues.
You got it right.
I'm ashamed for that, I don't understand either what kind of brain error I had when decided to stuff them in same pots like that.
Theres 6 pots in tent atm, which contains:
Pot nro 1: Mimosa autos x 2 + Northern Light auto x1
Pot nro 2: Mimosa auto x1 + Royal AK autos x 2
Pot nro 3: Northern Light auto x1
Each 11 liters fabric plant!t-pots.
Then theres three 6L standard pots, each having one young NL auto.
Pot nro 2 seems to be the best example why it was stupid thing to do, to stuff them in same pot. Another one of Royal AKs is really stunted, most miserable plant of all. Next to it grows the biggest Mimosa. AK's roots must've been under-developed due the lack of space.
Even thought, should I just remove that tiny poor thing away from there, and maybe make a desperate try by transplanting her in 6L pot, alone obviously. ๐Ÿ˜‚
 
nekkul

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... but then I've been too worried to cause damages to other plants roots on that pot, if I'd remove that small AK. Just saying, I'm not seriously thinking to do anything like that.
 
nekkul

nekkul

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did i read right? you have several plants in a pot?

you only have one that is a single plant in a pot?

thats gonna cause issues.

you put most in 3 gallon pots, but there are some in 1.5 gallon pots, the pot size goes a long way toward yield in an auto.

i am pro autos for learning and while accumulating the equipment and knowledge to control the required dark cycle for photos.

i run both pretty equally. i mean, why not? i have a 12/12 tent and a 18/6 tent so i fill them up.

theyve come a long way baby on autos, they are just cannabis plants, not space aliens
I feel sometimes like I should record on a tape someone saying for example that last sentence of your reply. Then I could put the tape going on nonstop repeat from my headphones, everytime when i get that feeling that I'm actually trying to grow & please some reincarnation of jesus, as a plant-form, in my tent.
 
BirdLaw86

BirdLaw86

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No need to thank me. I wanna see everyone involved with growing to prosper.

Correct on the no rushing the natural processes. If i was you I would begin today on creating a compost pile. Banana peels, used coffee grounds, egg shells, alot of leaves from your yard, and mix well. Add water and let it do its thing. May have to turn your pile with a shovel to keep heat levels down depending on how large your compost pile is.

Since you said youre in the middle of nowhere i would suggest reading up and watching alot of videos on korean natural farming and its brother called Jadam...these are little to no cost ways of gardening and growing all organic plants. They use ingredients that are already in your house or very easily obtainable. Its practically free to begin making what they call "inputs"...these vary, some create the nutrients the plant needs like your NPK's and the other nutes needed and then theres also their microbiological inputs which add beneficial bacteria into your soil, the microbiology is of the upmost importance in soil as they actually feed your plant, not you! See how youre adding coffee and pine etc...well the baxteria and fungi are the ones who go at that stuff and then break it down making it available for your plant, your roots dont want coffee, they want what the coffee and pine is made up of. So by utilizing jadam and KNF, you become the shepard of the soil and its microbiology, then they do all the hard work...not just breaking down food for your plant but also fending off unwanted microbial life and unwanted fungus...a living healthy rootzone will work wonders for your plant..they microbiology will also fix your PH and keep it regulated as lomg as you dont overdo it with any of the nutes.

Making their inputs are SIMPLE and take a little time to create. Legit if you started today within 1 week to 10 days you can make about 5 of their inputs inorder to begin feeding your soil ASAP!

IF you take the jadam and KNF route, jusy make sure to learn as much as possible. Come back here and ask questions and then cross check the answers with the information provided by jadam and KNF. I highly suggest this to all who grow organic but even more for you being that youre out in the middle of nowhere and supplies arent easy to come by.
 

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