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Just another sick guy

  • Thread starter Thread starter CheechWizard
  • Start date Start date Sep 13, 2010
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Just another sick guy

CheechWizard Sep 13, 2010 88 Replies 20,860 Views
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fiftythree33

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Sep 16, 2010
#21
Yes exactly what I would do but I only have 7gal in each bucket about half what you guys are running IIRC.

Are the tips burning as well as curling?

If so.. check your phosphorus level the tip burning could be tip death instead and curling is a sign of both N and P issues. This is what I believe has been my problem with H&G so I've just added a weak dose of Cool Bloom.
 
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CheechWizard

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Sep 16, 2010
#22
Interesting because two res. changes ago. I was running H&G also. The ppm was around 840. It was to hot and got the burn and curl. The sensi seems a little week in comparison so I just topped off today at 630. We'll see how it goes.
 
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fiftythree33

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#23
yea its hot and completely lacking in P... I really hope my attempt to fix this issue pays off. Running 840 PPM whats the NPK value in that 840? Do you have any idea or are you just guessing that you have enough?

From the sticky in Basic Growing Info...

"Necessary for seed germination, photosynthesis, protein formation and almost all aspects of growth and metabolism in plants. It is essential for flower and fruit formation. P is a constituent of energy-transfer compounds such as NADP and ATP, and molecular complexes such as the genes. The energy compounds are necessary for photosynthesis, respiration, and synthesis of biomolecules. Cannabis takes up large amounts of P during germination and seedling stages. During flowering and seed set, Cannabis' need for phosphorous is also high."

Look at the normal dosage of H&G NPK PPM @ 5.5ml/gal w all the additives they recommend you get 71-31-128 PPM NPK per gallon. Everyone pretty much agrees the lucas formula grows great MJ and that is giving the plant during the entire cycle 107-94-160. With H&G you are giving 1/3rd the P but 3/4 the N and K of Lucas. And this continues all the way to 10.5 ml/gal at 133-52-238... From what I understand, I don't believe a plant can use N or K without some P and H&G is really shorting it for some reason? I know jack squat about growing but if these numbers are at all accurate and relevant then I'll have fixed the problem and should be able to see the difference in a few days at most.

Post the NPK values of everything in your res with ml/gal and I'll calc the NPK PPM per gal. I guarantee it is low on P when compared to Lucas. Wish I had more time to research this...

:bong-hits:
 
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fiftythree33

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Sep 17, 2010
#24
Ok my own curiosity got the best of me heh... this sensi bloom is super N hot and is better than H&G for P but still half of Lucas level. I understand why everyone recommends half strength on AN now. 6.5ml/gal it's 101-47-127 you might be N burning them if you are putting a bunch of N additives in as well.
 
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CheechWizard

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Sep 18, 2010
#25
Hola farmers, quick question. Is it the general consensus now that if your running rock wool cubes, you should not run a top drip? All hydroton is alright to top drip?
 
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G

green stub

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Sep 18, 2010
#26
Man, you "big guys" make me and my small closet grow.....seem sooo small.........
Wishing I could go big but for now I guess my small med closet will just have to work.
I also know if the feds come knockin I'm legal beagle!
 
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G

green stub

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Sep 18, 2010
#27
Very nice crop Cheech
 
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B

Bobby Smith

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Sep 19, 2010
#28
CheechWizard said:
Hola farmers, quick question. Is it the general consensus now that if your running rock wool cubes, you should not run a top drip? All hydroton is alright to top drip?
Click to expand...

Not sure about the "consensus", but you can run either medium with a top drip.

You'd just need to drip less if you went with rockwool because it holds more water.

Boomer242 runs top drip with rockwool pretty well - give his thread a look.
 
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CheechWizard

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#29
Thanks Bobby, I have my drippers running open ended with 6GPH manifolds. I shoved the drip tube into the corner of the cube and shoved it down about 3-4 inches so the top and stem area of the cube wouldn't get to wet. I'll take a look at the thread you posted.
 
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TrichromeFan

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#30
Cheech,
dds claims that he runs the top drip 24hrs, the whole time. I believe dizzle uses rockwool cubes, and he cuts the top feed once roots are swimming well. Lost only hand waters from the top with his coco pots, till roots are swimming as well. You're running the hydro fungicide, yes? With that, you should be safer from the rot. I would still feel funny about a soggy cube, though. Some people run the drip lines around the perimeter of the cube, without soaking the cube directly. Hope that helps.

-TF
 
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mikeross

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Sep 19, 2010
#31
I used my top drip for all of 3 days until a couple roots hit the buckets. I have cut the top feed off since then and my cube does not seem to be complete dried out... My plants are growing like nothing I have ever seen before.

I strongly feel the top drip is not needed and does more harm than good.

In that 3 days of top drip I had so much roots in the rockwool that it created a small puddle to form on top of my rockwool cubes at all times if running 24/7. It would not allow the water to drain properly through the cubes. I have no clue how guys are able to run them 24/7 with open ended lines just dumping water on the rockwool rather than a slow drip.

with my next round of veg I am going to make sure that roots are coming out the bottom of the net baskets before I transplant into the mpb room. This first round I could see roots almost to the bottom of the baskets before transplant into the mpb rooms. I had roots in the water in less than 2 day and had a shit load of roots by end of week 1 veg in the mpbs.
 
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CheechWizard

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Sep 20, 2010
#32
Last night after reading the feedback. I shut the top drip off.
 
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mikeross

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#33
CheechWizard said:
Last night after reading the feedback. I shut the top drip off.
Click to expand...

Just dont turn that top drip back on bro... Dont turn it on even for a flush.
 
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CheechWizard

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Sep 23, 2010
#34
Hi Farmers, quick update. The room is progressing nicely. It's day 22 and little flowers are forming. The ppm is up 980 and both carbon filters are kicking. :rasta2:




Say bye bye to high humidity at night. :sun Just picked up a 100 pint dehumidifier. oh well It wasn't a santa fe or drizair. My friends at the hydro store got me a great deal on an active air. It uses 9.4 amps instead of the santa fe 6.4 but hell it was half the price.



A few of the girls that got sick in the heat are not picking up. The leaves are still yellow and droopy. The problem is that the AC can only keep the room at 85. Everything adds onto that number. Fans 86, dirty AC filters 88, Humidifiers running dry 90 degrees. But the worst was when the AC ran in auto mode for 2 days. that side of the room was in the high 90's.

Had to shutdown two bulbs, brought it down to 76-78. The room is running on 15 lights. I don't think I can turn the other two on till I get more AC, cool tubes, or something.
 
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M

MisterAvocado

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Sep 23, 2010
#35
what's the model number on that dehumidifier? And what was the price?
 
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CheechWizard

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Sep 24, 2010
#36
They are from sunlight supply Item No.700896 price $769.95
 
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leadsled

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Sep 24, 2010
#37
Looking good cheech, hope you get the heat issues sorted. At least can be fixed with some more $$. Kinda hard to do sometimes when the $$ is low. Nice score on the dehuey. Least that is out of the way :) I want to get one of the commercial models like that someday.
 
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CheechWizard

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Sep 26, 2010
#38
word, more ac more light more :cash :banana1sv6:

Hey if your on well water like me and have a grains per gallon higher than 10 you are probably screwing your RO filter. I didn't realize it till I got into mine and noticed the crud.

My well is spitting out 17 grains. :character0053:

The latest project is a new water softener and booster pump for the Merlin RO system. The System is setup like this.

well ---> pre filter ---> water softener ---> booster pump ---> merlin RO ---> water storage --->





Here is the nasty filter. (really chocked the flow down hard)
 
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Giddeon

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Sep 27, 2010
#39
Top Feed lines

I have read here in this thread, and a few other places that people aren't liking the top feed lines and I would just like to chime in and say that I have used mine on the entire time and have had no problems. In fact while watching my root growth I have noticed that the plants with the higher top feed rate (each site in my system is adjustable with a ball valve) are bigger and have more root mass in the bubbling water.

My theory on why this happens is that the flow from the top allows more advantageous roots to grow in the upper bucket that is full of the hydroton which then grow and follow the flow of the top fed water downward into the bubbling water below where they can then really explode in their growth rate. When there are more roots coming down from the cube and the top hydroton filled bucket there are more roots to enjoy the bubbling waters below........Rather than having a couple main places where roots came out of the cube they hurry downward into the bubbling water and since they are the roots now that are feeding your plant the most the they will start growing faster and with no top feed line to keep more roots coming downward the couple roots that are in the water seem to thicken a bit at the top and only sprout new roots from the main few in the bucket.

Just my opinion because of what I have observed.
G:rasta:
 
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CheechWizard

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#40
Giddeon said:
I have read here in this thread, and a few other places that people aren't liking the top feed lines and I would just like to chime in and say that I have used mine on the entire time and have had no problems. In fact while watching my root growth I have noticed that the plants with the higher top feed rate (each site in my system is adjustable with a ball valve) are bigger and have more root mass in the bubbling water.

My theory on why this happens is that the flow from the top allows more advantageous roots to grow in the upper bucket that is full of the hydroton which then grow and follow the flow of the top fed water downward into the bubbling water below where they can then really explode in their growth rate. When there are more roots coming down from the cube and the top hydroton filled bucket there are more roots to enjoy the bubbling waters below........Rather than having a couple main places where roots came out of the cube they hurry downward into the bubbling water and since they are the roots now that are feeding your plant the most the they will start growing faster and with no top feed line to keep more roots coming downward the couple roots that are in the water seem to thicken a bit at the top and only sprout new roots from the main few in the bucket.

Just my opinion because of what I have observed.
G:rasta:
Click to expand...


Hi, Thanks for chiming in on this. I remember dds saying he got his best results from 6"x6" cubes running top-drip 24/7. I looked through your thread and see you have 2 drippers running at 2gph each. How are they positioned in the cube? Do you have a few photos you can post of the configuration? Did you have any clogging issues with your emitters? I'd really like to figure out the top-drip before the next run. Your analogy for bigger plants makes sense to me. I'm thinking of running top-drip and strait hydroton.
 
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Thread info

Replies 88
Views 20,860
Started Sep 13, 2010
Latest post Oct 29, 2010
Starter CheechWizard
Forum Doubleds MPB Buckets

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