ttystikk
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This is the best advice here so far! You... ..start with a smaller bloom room and work up to Yangtze whole space.
Here again yes and no. What you do is run one main loop through both chillers. then t off to each appliance with a thermo valve. Control the VFD of chiller one based on the difference in in/out water temp then use chiller only when unit one reaches a certain wattage(requires wire) or water temp(requires sensor) If your main loop is high in the ceiling then gravity should provide circulation in the loops. Or small circ pumps. Run loops at whatever temp/volume you wish. Most of the controls and sensors can be fed into a computer where you can monitor everything that's going on. As this stuff gets cheaper and more wireless it will be more fun to play with.Ha! I've had two chillers for months now- and you're the first to mention that I could run them on separate loops at different temperatures!
There is a video on you tube(super geeky) on using VFDs and E-Bay or surplus electronic parts but you would want to use two.
$20&>
If you were going to do it according to Hoyle, a main high volume line I think would be in order.
Then circ loops for each item separate but for both rooms.
i.e. all light coolers on one loop both rooms, air on another loop both rooms,etc.
In this case. Hoyle is new construction method that would only apply to you conceptually. You have the r&d going with the "try " setup. We do this same thing in existing buildings. Build a system with more than normal flexibility, get it running perfectly through all parameters then start eliminating extra bullshit.I'll go see if I can catch a VFD... or two. :confused:
As quoted, Hoyle makes no sense to me in this case.
Makes much more sense this way and I get to repurpose cooling circuits on the fly, including what they chill and how they do it. I'm an amateur, but I'm proud of the flexibility I've built into the system.
I have a whole fridge full of bud as it is. It's not like I have much reason to step up production.
http://www.tank-depot.com/productdetails.aspx?part=RRFS3000So I had a idea the other night and not sure if it would work or not. Basically a Geo chiller take a 3000 gal holding tank (bigger the better) and run 1500ft of 3/4'' copper coil inside and bury it 12ft deep and let mother nature chill your water.Any reason this wouldn't work? The only power need to run it would be a small pond pump at most. Pick it a part guys please tell me why it wouldn't work!Thats how i get better!
So I had a idea the other night and not sure if it would work or not. Basically a Geo chiller take a 3000 gal holding tank (bigger the better) and run 1500ft of 3/4'' copper coil inside and bury it 12ft deep and let mother nature chill your water.Any reason this wouldn't work? The only power need to run it would be a small pond pump at most. Pick it a part guys please tell me why it wouldn't work!Thats how i get better!
Second, why bury all that perfectly good heat?! What's wrong with warming a greenhouse, greenhouse or fish pond- all the above gives something back in return for the gift of warmth...
Run a heat exchanger pre geo chiller If you really need the heat or vent the tank.
Can't be put in the ground.
A need to vent the tank defeats the purpose.
I understand about the need to bleed excess heat, I just try to get the most out of it first.
If you need to shed heat, what's wrong with the standard radiator with an extractor fan? Any time the air is cooler than your working fluid, you have compressorless chilling!
Can't be put in the ground.
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