Aqua Man
- Posts
- 26,479
- Reactions
- 59,693
- Joined
- Jun 12, 2018
- Points
- 638
2 likes... 2 freaking likes... not a single angry... contrary guys channel some LED rage here. Utter disappointment.
2 likes... 2 freaking likes... not a single angry... contrary guys channel some LED rage here. Utter disappointment.suckers
I got nothingYou are an ass. Argue that!
In fairness I spent most of my life going by that name...Remember boys civil no name calling
Yeah by the par value i meant for hanging height just so i dont burn the plants by having them too close or cause stretching by having to far away :) ill probs go with the hydro for ease but the kingbrite being more powerfull plus cheaper makes me want to get it is yours the 3500k 660nm? And what about the IR and UV option ive heard if you dont have a seperate switch for the IR and UV your best avoiding it ?First you mean American assembled with warranty and customer service - and unless you got some serious skills then that minimal par value is irrelevant- if you want to copy someones grow get the Mars or spider farmer lots of people use em
Depends how they are connected. Much like the old Christmas lightsAny one have a diode die, and does it spoil the whole array, or knock the spectrum out?
Depends how they are connected. Much like the old Christmas lights
Yep 3500 660 ir yes but no UvYeah by the par value i meant for hanging height just so i dont burn the plants by having them too close or cause stretching by having to far away :) ill probs go with the hydro for ease but the kingbrite being more powerfull plus cheaper makes me want to get it is yours the 3500k 660nm? And what about the IR and UV option ive heard if you dont have a seperate switch for the IR and UV your best avoiding it ?
Depends on your soldering skills. But should be to hard. Plenty here do thier own boards... maybe peak through and see. I'm sure it probably depends on the boards too.Is that easy to change a diode, or is it a send off to manufacturer.
Yup UV from LED just not worth it.Yep 3500 660 ir yes but no Uv
Any one have a diode die, and does it spoil the whole array, or knock the spectrum out?
Yup UV from LED just not worth it.
I am in Pro-Mix in 3" jiffy cups, going into Root Royale Coco/perlite, using Viparspectra 450w LED w/IR diodes in the light, drain to waste. What a thread, go reflector series!Oh there you go again. Should I call foul and call a mod, wait this is the fun part!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Yes we need a Coco arguing thread
A promix arguing thread
A RDWC Arguing thread
And so on!!!!!!!!!!
Till you come home and your tent is melted or your house is on fire because they malfunctioned.
Buyer beware not all heaters are created equal.
The two things I would never cheap out on for any indoor horticulture operation are heating mats and lights. Ive seen horror stories of non- UL listed mats and lights that were poorly wired.
I hate to be a downer but I always have to look at things from a risk/reward scenario. The rewards of using todays lines of horticulture heating mats in your own home without buffers for plants is not worth the risk to me.
If your going to use le cheapo non UL listed mat make sure to only use clay pots that cant burn and also have tile or glass or concrete (something non-meltable/flammable) that can buffer heat when needed underneath. Most "UL certified""MET certified heat mats are not UL-listed and will create uneven patches of heat that can change depending on how things are put on them and how they are oriented. You will find many horror stories and pictures of them burning through the plastic cover as well as furniture they are in contact with. UL certified and UL listed are two totally different things.
PS. As far as Im aware there are only like two true UL listed heat mat brands. Most heat mats do not meet the stringent criteria to be UL listed and thus are not safe enough for me to consider in my home. Personally, I trust a generic non UL listed aquarium heaters more than I trust a generic non UL- listed horticulture heating mat.
Id much rather get a cheapo glass fish tank with a aquarium heater, old style thermometer and small air pump. I also would imagine for young seedlings and the like that for fitting floating seedling trays would work insanely well inside the aquarium and could also suffice as a no frills hydroponic seedling starter if you arent afraid of some water based-algae. Granted, depending on the temp you want it set at you could end up with some serious humidity issues inside your tent which come with its own batch of problems but... it beats coming home to your house on fire or having to replace a burned/melted tent/table/wooden floor etc. A
Idk, I come from the aquatic fish and plant hobby, Im a different breed than most people on here. Even with a water heater you can still have issues, but, atleast water acts as a time extender if your heater busts, you may nuke your fish/plants but you probably wont nuke your house. If the heater breaks and starts busting out heavy heat then the water obvi takes alot of time to evaporate buying you more time after the malfunction to come home and check your equipement. The same cant be said for a mat heater.
To each their own. My advice, if you own your own home, and your home is expensive , dont cheap out on anything to do with heat for your horticulture hobby or aquarium. Think things right and buy right the first time. If you go the mat route, get tiles or glass or a concrete slab (something that wont melt or catch fire essentially) for underneath and in between to be safe. Nuked pot plants are one thing, nuked rare exotic imported fish another, but nuking your home and mans best friend Fiddo/Skippy/Lassie or waking up to having to rush you and your kids out of a house at 3am cause daddy lit the basement on fire to get high, well thats the MOAB right there ... thats a whole lot of time and effort that just went "Up in Smoke" and fire insurance will never pay you back in full for what was lost. Shit, come to think of it, they may not even cover a dime if they determine what started the fire was a heating device that wasnt UL- listed.
There is a reason aquarium heating companies love to show hobbysts their UL-listing and go out of their way financially to make something that can be UL listed.
Water, electric, and heat dont mix and these guys do not want to get sued or have the bad rap, they also have lightyears of research ahead of the indoor horticulture business. Ill take a 5 year old UL listed Eheim aqua heater and an aquarium and a pump with a floating seed tray or floating pot of some kind any day for controlled dispursion of heat over just a new bare heating mat with no layers of protection and inadequate dispersion.
You get more controllable heat with water circulating to even the temp, and IF things go wrong the water evaporation and glass buys you alot of time.
If you go the vegetable heating mat route like many here would prefer to do (as not everyone wants to deal with an aquarium taking space or water and humidty issue) idiot proof AND "made in china proof" your setup. Going cheap on heat is not worth your house, your pets, your kids, or your day in court with the insurance company.
I started at 18” or so and let the plant tell me when the light was to close. 6” was borderline and 12” was fine for my set up.I have a question about the hanging height above the canopy of my grow. With a light fixture like the ROI E680, how close should I hang it above my girls? Right now, I have it at 24" dimmed to 70%. If there is anyone that has experience growing with this fixture, advice would be much appreciated. I have referred to the company site, and it said 8," but I am a little hesitant as my plants are only in the first week of veg. For anyone who hasn't seen my first post, I'm growing in a 5x5 tent. I'm running an RDWC system, so I want to keep res temps lower and stable. The LECs I just switched out had res temps at 80 degrees Fahrenheit, and now it is down to 71 degrees. I am afraid if I lower the fixture to 8", it will raise the nutrient solution temps. I have even been able to use less AC, and my HVAC is kept on a low-speed setting.
Is the spare bedroom I have my 2 separate tents in considered the "lung room" meaning if I keep temp/hum stable in that room, leaving the tents wide open it keeps my tents stable as well?I set the humidifier at 40.
sits in the lung room tho. Tent gets up to 50% or so. Depending on outside humidity and temperature.
dehum had been running almost non stop for the last few days.
Heating the space tho. Heater hasn’t kicked on at all. So cold. Ready for this arctic air to piss of.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?