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Leaf with red spot problems. Please Help.

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Leaf with red spot problems. Please Help.

tsukiman13 Oct 25, 2020 40 Replies 5,560 Views
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tsukiman13

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#21
@Aqua Man, do you think i over fed these girls? By topping off everyday by the end of the week it’s always down to near half the ppm. Should I reduce to 600 ppm on my next nute change?? Shred me some light plzz
 
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tsukiman13

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#22
Aqua Man said:
Maybe snap a pic of the roots when you can
Click to expand...
Okay i recorded video of my root. It doesn’t look good. I hope it doesn’t dies halfway. I know its heat problems so supplies it with extra air to help with that.
 

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Aqua Man

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#23
tsukiman13 said:
Okay i recorded video of my root. It doesn’t look good. I hope it doesn’t dies halfway. I know its heat problems so supplies it with extra air to help with that.
Click to expand...
Root look healthy. Temps are to high and you have less water volume than you think so water changes may need done sooner. This is due to displacement of water by the roots.

As for top ups you can mix a half strength nutrient solution and use that for add backs daily
 
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Aqua Man

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#24
Here is my advice.

Try to find a way to lower root temps. I had success in moving my res outside the grow space was all that was needed.

Get a bigger res next go round. The bigger the most stable it will be. Less ppm swing, less ph swing, less nutrient ratio issues.

This is where I think the major problem is.... nutrient ratios. With such a small amount of water the ratios will change fast and that affects the availability of certain nutrients. This happens because the plants take up nutrients at different rates, so as time goes on the ratio of each nutrient in relation to the others change and thus say to much Calcium can lead to locking out other nutrients etc. and the same goes for other nutrients. Nutrient ratios are probably the most important factor when it comes to nutrients.

So doing more frequent water changes and doing add back with a weaker nutrient solution but still with the same ratios will help stabilize everything nutrient related.

To do this simply mix 1 gal of full strength nutrients then dilute it to 25%-50% and use it for add backs. Test after and you will know how to adjust this. You want to bring the ppm back up to where your setpoint is each add back. You may even need to make it more concentrated like 200% if they are eating alot.

If this is confusing just ask and I can help.
 
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tsukiman13

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#25
Aqua Man said:
Here is my advice.

Try to find a way to lower root temps. I had success in moving my res outside the grow space was all that was needed.

Get a bigger res next go round. The bigger the most stable it will be. Less ppm swing, less ph swing, less nutrient ratio issues.

This is where I think the major problem is.... nutrient ratios. With such a small amount of water the ratios will change fast and that affects the availability of certain nutrients. This happens because the plants take up nutrients at different rates, so as time goes on the ratio of each nutrient in relation to the others change and thus say to much Calcium can lead to locking out other nutrients etc. and the same goes for other nutrients. Nutrient ratios are probably the most important factor when it comes to nutrients.

So doing more frequent water changes and doing add back with a weaker nutrient solution but still with the same ratios will help stabilize everything nutrient related.

To do this simply mix 1 gal of full strength nutrients then dilute it to 25%-50% and use it for add backs. Test after and you will know how to adjust this. You want to bring the ppm back up to where your setpoint is each add back. You may even need to make it more concentrated like 200% if they are eating alot.

If this is confusing just ask and I can help.
Click to expand...
You the man!!! Thank you for taking your time out to help and giving me on spot advice. You’re awesome!!!
 
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tsukiman13

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#26
Aqua Man said:
You want to bring the ppm back up to where your setpoint is each add back. You may even need to make it more concentrated like 200% if they are eating alot.

If this is confusing just ask and I can help.
Click to expand...

Alright so this is the only part where I get confused.
I understand what you mean by adding back to set point ppm. But I don’t get what you mean by making it more concentrated. Care to elaborate this out a little bit further sir?
 
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Aqua Man

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#27
tsukiman13 said:
Alright so this is the only part where I get confused.
I understand what you mean by adding back to set point ppm. But I don’t get what you mean by making it more concentrated. Care to elaborate this out a little bit further sir?
Click to expand...
So you need to add back a gal a day say.

For 50% you mix all nutrients the same as normal for 1 gal. Then dilute it with 1 gal of just water. That gives you a 50% mix of balanced nutrients (ratio speaking) you use this to top up.

If they are eating a ton you may need to make it more concentrated so you would add say double the amount per gal you normally mix in a 1gal and use that to top up. This being 200%.

If you take readings after the top up you can slowly adjust to find the right % for your top ups. This is always changing but the goal is just to get close and keep it a bit more balanced between water changes.
 
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#28
Aqua Man said:
So you need to add back a gal a day say.

For 50% you mix all nutrients the same as normal for 1 gal. Then dilute it with 1 gal of just water. That gives you a 50% mix of balanced nutrients (ratio speaking) you use this to top up.

If they are eating a ton you may need to make it more concentrated so you would add say double the amount per gal you normally mix in a 1gal and use that to top up. This being 200%.

If you take readings after the top up you can slowly adjust to find the right % for your top ups. This is always changing but the goal is just to get close and keep it a bit more balanced between water changes.
Click to expand...
Aye, i see what you mean now. So I just need to find the right saturation point to top off so that it gets close to my set point ppm.

And also, yesterday i did something to improve my water temp. I changed my regular 16 oz frozen water bottles to a 1 gal bottle. And also run my air pump inlet to a cooler area outside my grow room. Hopefully this will help reduce the hot air coming into my bucket.
 
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#29
tsukiman13 said:
Aye, i see what you mean now. So I just need to find the right saturation point to top off so that it gets close to my set point ppm.

And also, yesterday i did something to improve my water temp. I changed my regular 16 oz frozen water bottles to a 1 gal bottle. And also run my air pump inlet to a cooler area outside my grow room. Hopefully this will help reduce the hot air coming into my bucket.
Click to expand...
It should help quite a bit. Looks like you have a plan now just need to execute
 
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tsukiman13

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#30
Aqua Man said:
It should help quite a bit. Looks like you have a plan now just need to execute
Click to expand...
Yes sir! Also I changed my nutrient regime. This time I only add


- hygrozyme
- hydroguard
- photosynthesis plus

- floranova bloom
- calmag
- botanicasweet raw

this taking out half of my normal of nutrient used.

i increased the bloom to full strength and sweet raw and my ppm came out to be 1370 once added into the buckets yesterday.

And today, ppm went down to 1100. Adding back just RO it came down to 1020 ppm.

Is this a bad idea?
 
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Aqua Man

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#31
tsukiman13 said:
Yes sir! Also I changed my nutrient regime. This time I only add


- hygrozyme
- hydroguard
- photosynthesis plus

- floranova bloom
- calmag
- botanicasweet raw

this taking out half of my normal of nutrient used.

i increased the bloom to full strength and sweet raw and my ppm came out to be 1370 once added into the buckets yesterday.

And today, ppm went down to 1100. Adding back just RO it came down to 1020 ppm.

Is this a bad idea?
Click to expand...
Nope but IME 600-700ppm is about as high as I go. Now if its working and they aren't overfed no issue.

How much water was added back?
 
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tsukiman13

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#32
Aqua Man said:
Nope but IME 600-700ppm is about as high as I go. Now if its working and they aren't overfed no issue.

How much water was added back?
Click to expand...
Today i added back about 1.5 gal like usual. They seems to be eating a lot now.
 
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#33
tsukiman13 said:
Today i added back about 1.5 gal like usual. They seems to be eating a lot now.
Click to expand...
So in that 1.5 gal you need to raise the ppm by 80 of the entire system.

So if you have say 10gal system and you need to raise that 10gal by 80ppm with a 1.5 gal add back.

So 10/1.5 = 6.6

So 6.6x80ppm = 528ppm in 1.5 gal to get ya back there.... or about a 50% mix

Does that makes sense?
 
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Aqua Man

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#34
After a while you will just toss the stuff in and be bang on. This is just a good way to get ya familiar with it.
 
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tsukiman13

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#35
Aqua Man said:
So in that 1.5 gal you need to raise the ppm by 80 of the entire system.

So if you have say 10gal system and you need to raise that 10gal by 80ppm with a 1.5 gal add back.

So 10/1.5 = 6.6

So 6.6x80ppm = 528ppm in 1.5 gal to get ya back there.... or about a 50% mix

Does that makes sense?
Click to expand...
Holy cow! Doing all the math stuffs already. I will be looking back to this threads many months later just for this. Haahaha. Greatly appreciated my man.
 
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#36
tsukiman13 said:
Holy cow! Doing all the math stuffs already. I will be looking back to this threads many months later just for this. Haahaha. Greatly appreciated my man.
Click to expand...
It's sounds complicated but super fast and easy.

Volume of system divided by the add back.

Take that number and multiply it by the ppm difference.

That will give you the number that needs to be added to what you used last time for addbacks.

Maybe I should make a post putting in the calculations for ppl so they can just refer to it. Yeah will do that today sometime as I often answer this question and it sounds complicated but its really not once ya get the hang of it.
 
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tsukiman13

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#37
Aqua Man said:
It's sounds complicated but super fast and easy.

Volume of system divided by the add back.

Take that number and multiply it by the ppm difference.

That will give you the number that needs to be added to what you used last time for addbacks.

Maybe I should make a post putting in the calculations for ppl so they can just refer to it. Yeah will do that today sometime as I often answer this question and it sounds complicated but its really not once ya get the hang of it.
Click to expand...
Hahaha. This is great! People will hug it like crazy.
 
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MIMedGrower

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#38
TripsRabbit said:
I give my plants 5ml/gal of calmag from start to flush and still get Mg deficiency sometimes. I combat mine with epsom salts sprinkled on top of my coco. I know this isn't an option for hydro but here's something to think about. Mg and Ca actually lock each other out. Some plants like more of one or the other. If they get too much of one it keeps them from uptake of the other. For this reason I like to keep garden gypsum and epsom salt on hand to supplement the one that's lacking. They make water soluble gypsum and it won't change ph or burn your plants, epsom salt can burn your plants tho.
Click to expand...


Reality is almost no one needs extra cal mag most nutes contain both. And the spots are more often caused by too much crap blocking roots than actually needing more cal mag.

Plants need what they need all together in ratio. Sometimes calcium uptake is the problem. Sometimes too much phosphorous. Sometimes its environmental...


See where im going with this?
 
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Aqua Man

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#39
MIMedGrower said:
Reality is almost no one needs extra cal mag most nutes contain both. And the spots are more often caused by too much crap blocking roots than actually needing more cal mag.

Plants need what they need all together in ratio. Sometimes calcium uptake is the problem. Sometimes too much phosphorous. Sometimes its environmental...


See where im going with this?
Click to expand...
100%
 
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#40
What a great crash course on res management. Thanks @Aqua Man !
 
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