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RanchoDeluxe
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I'd love to see some more recipes that you've tried out man. I think I will be using orange oil as a cleaner when the next room comes down.
RD
RD
It's awesome. It's what's in mechanic hand wipes and it's in goof off.I'd love to see some more recipes that you've tried out man. I think I will be using orange oil as a cleaner when the next room comes down.
RD
Word. Yeah I didn't think fungus gnats would be the reason but still crazy you quit using them! But also understand your reason, have you tried host plants? I've learned a lot from you so I don't doubt you, I just wanted to hear what you had to say. Haha the civic! Yeah not much pest problems in Encinitas in the fam but I always here mad talk about them whenever I dip in the grow shop. I'm so lax on neem and IPM in general. Good filters and good practise is where it's at down here. I get 12" x 12" hepa I think 5 or some shit... they pricey but worth it. Stick them in front of my intake.It's true. No more cover crops for me. Fungus gnats don't have much to do with it. Clover in particular becomes a haven for spider mites. If you never deal with them keep using a cover crop.
Broad mites run rampant up in the hills of NorCal. Shake anyone's hand and you now have them on you. I grow in a small warehouse surrounded by other growers. What I'm getting at is if you grow on any sort of scale plant pests are inevitable. I use really nice filters and will be using UV light as precautions. Neem is the Honda Civic of IPM, if you ask me. I've never had success with it against thrips. Broad and russet mites are known to be carried in on the backs of thrips too.
RD
And IIRC thrips are a pita due to the fact they inject their eggs into the plant tissue. So you may knock down the visible colony but more are on their way as most pesticides cannot access their eggs due to where they are located and then you have the next generation to deal with as the hatch cycle is short.It's true. No more cover crops for me. Fungus gnats don't have much to do with it. Clover in particular becomes a haven for spider mites. If you never deal with them keep using a cover crop.
Broad mites run rampant up in the hills of NorCal. Shake anyone's hand and you now have them on you. I grow in a small warehouse surrounded by other growers. What I'm getting at is if you grow on any sort of scale plant pests are inevitable. I use really nice filters and will be using UV light as precautions. Neem is the Honda Civic of IPM, if you ask me. I've never had success with it against thrips. Broad and russet mites are known to be carried in on the backs of thrips too.
RD
Nice post! ThanksNeem and karanja are expensive foliar IPMs. Green cleaner is a very expensive IPM. Here is the power of both in 1 mix.
1 quart bath warm water
1 TBS cold pressed aloe
2 TBS peppermint castle soap
1/2 tsp canola oil
1/2 tsp neem/karanja oil
10 drops limonene (orange peel extract)
10 drops rosemary oil
10 drops clove oil
10 drops lavender oil
10 drops cedar oil
By happy accident I found this stuff to just eviscerate pest insects. D-limonene is used in agriculture as an enzyme based insecticide. It is a contact killer. Make sure to buy food grade. Organic isn't necessary as long as it's biodegradable.
orange oil – In a world full of biological pesticides which don’t work very well, orange oil stands out because it wipes out or repels entire colonies, and prevents re-infestations, instead of simply killing insects individually. D-limonene (the main constituent of orange oil) is harmless to humans, but deadly to most insects because it dissolves the waxy coating on the exoskeleton of insects, causing dehydration and asphyxiation. One application of orange oil will destroy a full colony of ants. Then, even more importantly, its powerful scent will eradicate the pheromone trail left behind by the ants. Re-infestation usually happens when “new” ants follow that trail back to the original ant nesting spot. But if they can’t find the pheromone trail, a new colony won’t be setting up shop in your home or business. This oil is so effective at killing bugs, that you should be aware of which bugs you are spraying, as this can also kill beneficial bugs and pollinators.
Cedar oil – Cedar oil affects octopamine, a compound that is essential to life for pheromone-driven “bad bugs” like fleas and ticks. Octopamine is responsible for regulating heart rate, movement, and behavior in pests. It’s essential for life. Cedar oil blocks the octopamine neurotransmitter receptors in pests, causing them to be repelled from the area. When “bad bugs” come in contact with cedar oil, pests suffocate and die. Mammals, birds, fish, amphibians and beneficial insects are not affected by cedar oil because they do not have octopamine neurotransmitters.
I've also attached a paper from Clemson with some other mammal non toxic pesticides.
If my shitty gardening skills led to my mealy bug infestation Idk what to say but back to the drawing board. You are extremely knowledgeable and I respect your opinion but i have to disagree.
These are 3 weeks from a dry seed in a bag.
It's awesome. It's what's in mechanic hand wipes and it's in goof off.
New to this type of garden but for my vegetable garden I like 2 tbl neem and 1tbl dr bronners sal suds soap 10 drops of rosemary per gal. How do you think it fairs for weed? Would you not use in flower stage? Should I tweek for weed?All you need for IPM is neem and an emulsifier.. if you need anything else its your growing skills that need work