SeymourGreen
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Excellent post. Very helpful and informative. I like your profiles. Might have to borrow from them a bit lol!Check out THIS blog entry by Dr Daniel Fernandez regarding how nutrient manufacturers can misrepresent their formulations in their so called Guaranteed Analysis. That being said, don't trust the label info as it's intentionally skewed to protect their formulation(s). I journal my grow at the Bean Basement and sometimes 420, but I also made a "How To" video on YouTube for using Hydro Buddy that might be helpful to some, but generally, I've found it easier to just stay in my own lane and not be influenced by product labels with skewed info. I developed a PH Perfect regimen for my perpetual garden that yields me a plant every week, and the good thing about a setup like that is that I have plants in all stages of life at all times, so change I make along the way show results in about 2 weeks. I'll share my most current targets and which solutions I used to achieve them. PH perfection is gained by balancing the potassium silicate with the monoammonium phosphate (MAP), and starting from my RO source, these targets result in perfect PH stability at about 5.9-6.0.
View attachment 1145009
FYI, using the Late regimen on plants with yellow leaves will yellow EVERY leaf on the plant, so I choose whether to stay using the Mid or graduate to the Late on a plant by plant, feed by feed basis.
This is a really good thread so I logged in to contribute as well as learn.
Edit - I forgot to mention that I mix everything (except micros) at 1 gram for every 10ml of RO in the jug. Because I make half gallons, for me, that's 189.27 grams which I round up to 189.3 grams on my 0.0 scale. Micros, I target by themselves and tell Hydro Buddy that I'm using a 1000x more than what I am, than shove it all into the one jug, so once again for my half gallon jug, I tell HB I'm making 500 gallons. This is my micro mix made with chelated metals Iron DTPA, Manganese EDTA, Copper EDTA, Zinc EDTA, Boric Acid and Sodium Molybdate. 3.8 on the above chart means I'm dosing my feed stock (DTW) at
By the way, are you in dwc, coco, or something else? I’m in coco, and trying to get my Ca up without adding extra N, and my K down without throwing anything else off.
Just curious, how much B is in Jacks, and what were your issues. I did a lot of studying and research on B a while back and seen first hand university studies on it. I'd be very surprised if it has to much, thats why i'm curious as to the levels of B your seeing.Jack's has too much B and not enough Ca, especially for Kush strains. Most of the micros are not well dialed in for cannabis and the total inability to change any of it is itself a weakness. By acquiring the same exact stuff that Jack's, or every other branded nutrient on the market today, is made of, and keeping it all separate, you cut out all of the middlemen and science that aims to please all crops instead of just cannabis. I have my every element right where I want it, I pay less than Jack's for it and I do not have to worry about my PH either as that's baked into my own recipe.
What are you using to determine the correct ratios of each element?
Excess Symptoms
Because B accumulates in the leaf margins, an early symptom of excess B is
discoloration and eventual death of the leaf margins. Normally, discoloration
along the whole length of the leaf distinguishes B excess from Ca deficiency
(see page 46), where just the leaf tip and margin at the tip turn brown and
die. Boron toxicity can easily result from excess B in the nutrient solution or
from B found in natural waters. The B level in the plant should be closely
monitored by plant analysis and by care in making the nutrient solution and
evaluating the quality of water used.
Concentration in a Nutrient Solution
Hydroponic formulas usually call for a B concentration of about 0.3 mg/L
(ppm) in the nutrient solution; the borate (BO33-) anion and molecular boric
acid (H3BO3) are the forms found in solution and utilized by plants.
Just curious, how much B is in Jacks, and what were your issues. I did a lot of studying and research on B a while back and seen first hand university studies on it. I'd be very surprised if it has to much, thats why i'm curious as to the levels of B your seeing.
Solid blends usually have homogeneity issues as well, so to figure out what the composition of a solid fertilizer is, you need to analyze several samples (5 are usually necessary to get good certainty). Sadly, in the case of solid blends, a single analysis is not enough due to the fact that solids are not guaranteed to be homogeneously mixed, so you might get 0.05% Fe in one scoop, then 0.15% in another, then 0.1% in another. You cannot send an entire bag for analysis, so multiple sample analyses are required to draw conclusions.
If you want to reproduce some fertilizer, liquid blends are usually easier to reverse engineer because of their natural homogeneity (meaning you only need one sample).
Isn't that the truth!The search is endless!
Here is an excerpt from Hydroponics; A Practical Guide for the soilless grower
That, and Jack's B ppm being 0.396 when using 3 grams of Jack's, or 0.476 when using the recommended dose of 3.6 grams. This lead to cooked leaf tips of every Jack's crop I grew as well as all other journals I subbed to. I myself recently use 0.3ppm of B which is roughly 25% less than what the smallest dose of Jack's offers and that too gave me B tox symptoms and only recently lowered my own B to 0.2ppm and the cooked leaf tips symptom has since abated.
Do you know if there are any Cannabis studies done on this, or any other element that you are aware of? Daniel Fernandez tells me most universities won't study cannabis until after the US decriminalizes it on a federal level. My above reply, I also tried to address your question. I only have Jack's Guaranteed Analysis to measure how much B they have in their product per dose, but I wouldn't be surprised if a lab analysis resulted in MANY different assays. Below is a quote from Daniel Fernandez on the topic in a discussion on my journal over at the bean basement. I'd link to it, but I usually have problems with site mods when linking between competing forums, but I'm sure a quick search of the language will bring you right to it.
And my issue with B aside, I still have the ability to change my feeds from res to res, balance the PH with the formulation and get it cheaper than continued use of 321. This thread aimed to discuss the swing between the K:Ca needs over time, and so far I'm finding my best results (all things considered) with a 1.4:1 ratio. Daniel tells me this mostly resembles Strawberries feed programs, yet all this time I thought we were trying to mimic tomatoes, lol.
The search is endless!
Its later here and i just seen this i'll briefly touch on this for now, if your running under 1ppm of boron you are far from over dosing on it, there are other ratio issues as well, my personal opinion at .2ppm your not far from being deficient, yes there are studies I know of, off the top of my head one out of the Carolina states did one I believe and their optimal range was like 8ppm I think, but even all the studies in the farming industry show higher PPM then what most people think. In my own studying and testing I ran Boron as high as 10ppm maybe a little more, with really very little side effects. All my testing was backed up with tissue sample and one thing I noted was the higher the boron contact , the higher the concentration of pretty much all other elements, I can run 5ppm of boron all day long for the fun of it and at flip supplement with borax for a one time feeding mixed with kelp because the alcohol in it makes it mobile.
lol you make it sound like i'm on trial, google is your friend you'll find what you need, I'm speaking of all mediums including hydro yes. I ran true recirculating hydro for over 20 years and I have a very good understanding of how the elements / ion act , work and get absorbed in water. if your one of these guys that doesn't think weekly rez changes are necessary in hydro your lost before you started.Please provide links or sources so I can figure out why my hydro book is so wildly incorrect. Also, please confirm that you're speaking about hydro and not soil.
lol you make it sound like i'm on trial, google is your friend you'll find what you need, I'm speaking of all mediums including hydro yes. I ran true recirculating hydro for over 20 years and I have a very good understanding of how the elements / ion act , work and get absorbed in water. if your one of these guys that doesn't think weekly rez changes are necessary in hydro your lost before you started.
lol blow no gasket what so ever, I say it the way I mean it, and if your to lazy to look it up thats on you, I brought something to your attention do with it as you wish, I don't care to prove shit to anyone, some people you can say to the sky is blue all day long and their going to tell you your wrong, So do with the info as you wish, either tell me i'm wrong or do your own research. simple broSomeone's triggered LMFAOFYI Einstein, had you provided link(s) or source(s), THAT would be leading a horse to water, but what you did was say "you think" there's water somewhere out there in the Carolinas. When someone on the internet asks you to prove the things that you are saying, the proper response is not to blow a gasket, the proper thing to do is provide links, quotes, anything to substantiate your claims.
lol blow no gasket what so ever, I say it the way I mean it, and if your to lazy to look it up thats on you, I brought something to your attention do with it as you wish, I don't care to prove shit to anyone, some people you can say to the sky is blue all day long and their going to tell you your wrong, So do with the info as you wish, either tell me i'm wrong or do your own research. simple bro
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