Check out
THIS blog entry by Dr Daniel Fernandez regarding how nutrient manufacturers can misrepresent their formulations in their so called Guaranteed Analysis. That being said, don't trust the label info as it's intentionally skewed to protect their formulation(s). I journal my grow at the Bean Basement and sometimes 420, but I also made a "How To" video on YouTube for using Hydro Buddy that might be helpful to some, but generally, I've found it easier to just stay in my own lane and not be influenced by product labels with skewed info. I developed a PH Perfect regimen for my perpetual garden that yields me a plant every week, and the good thing about a setup like that is that I have plants in all stages of life at all times, so change I make along the way show results in about 2 weeks. I'll share my most current targets and which solutions I used to achieve them. PH perfection is gained by balancing the potassium silicate with the monoammonium phosphate (MAP), and starting from my RO source, these targets result in perfect PH stability at about 5.9-6.0.
View attachment 1145009
FYI, using the Late regimen on plants with yellow leaves will yellow EVERY leaf on the plant, so I choose whether to stay using the Mid or graduate to the Late on a plant by plant, feed by feed basis.
This is a really good thread so I logged in to contribute as well as learn.
Edit - I forgot to mention that I mix everything (except micros) at 1 gram for every 10ml of RO in the jug. Because I make half gallons, for me, that's 189.27 grams which I round up to 189.3 grams on my 0.0 scale. Micros, I target by themselves and tell Hydro Buddy that I'm using a 1000x more than what I am, than shove it all into the one jug, so once again for my half gallon jug, I tell HB I'm making 500 gallons. This is my micro mix made with chelated metals Iron DTPA, Manganese EDTA, Copper EDTA, Zinc EDTA, Boric Acid and Sodium Molybdate. 3.8 on the above chart means I'm dosing my feed stock (DTW) at