Lies our fathers told us humidity

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woodsmaneh

woodsmaneh

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I run at about 65 to 70+ until the last 10 days than I stop controlling RH and let it ride. Goes from 35 to 55% in flower, I run like this with or with out CO2.

It's all about having everything balanced in your room, if just one aspect is off than everything is off and your not maximizing your yield. Yes flavor and all the good stuff to. So lets say your running at 30 to 35% and are happy don't you want to know what happens if you raise RH.

PM is due to a bad environmental you have created, change the environmental and you will never have it.

I got some PM about 14 years ago and bought a burner, big waste of time. You need to fix the cause not the problem. If you do get it try mixing 9 parts water with 1 part milk, give them a good spray and it will kill most PM.

We still got a little snow up here, going for beer lol

207337 10151461316338330 622518410 n
 
iscrog4food

iscrog4food

630
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How are you guys adding soo much humidity to your rooms? Can you link me the humidifier or swamp cooler you are using? Also Woods you have a death wish.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

6,892
313
iscrog4food said:
How are you guys adding soo much humidity to your rooms? Can you link me the humidifier or swamp cooler you are using? Also Woods you have a death wish.
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It's a sealed room, so the water vapor that plants transpire stays in the room until it's actively removed. Thus, a humidifier or swamp cooler is no longer required. Instead, figuring out how to get rid of the excess becomes your priority!
 
souphead

souphead

10
3
woodsmaneh said:
PM is due to a bad environmental you have created, change the environmental and you will never have it.

We still got a little snow up here, going for beer lol
Click to expand...

I went 20 years without a PM problem. I took in infected clones last year and got a nasty strain of PM that would bloom even with humidity in the 40's. Milk, Green Cure, etc. would knock it back, but would not rid you of this particularly nasty variety of PM.

Botrytis on the other hand is all strain, and environment. I have a wonderful high yielding cut that is particularly prone to it, if the humidity gets much over 50% once the big buds have formed it's almost guaranteed to get it. I quit running that cut for a while cause it was so depressing cutting into massive buds that were ruined by it.

You're a bad ass if you really went riding in those conditions
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

6,892
313
woodsmaneh said:
I run at about 65 to 70+ until the last 10 days than I stop controlling RH and let it ride. Goes from 35 to 55% in flower, I run like this with or with out CO2.

It's all about having everything balanced in your room, if just one aspect is off than everything is off and your not maximizing your yield. Yes flavor and all the good stuff to. So lets say your running at 30 to 35% and are happy don't you want to know what happens if you raise RH.

PM is due to a bad environmental you have created, change the environmental and you will never have it.

I got some PM about 14 years ago and bought a burner, big waste of time. You need to fix the cause not the problem. If you do get it try mixing 9 parts water with 1 part milk, give them a good spray and it will kill most PM.

We still got a little snow up here, going for beer lol

View attachment 310792
Click to expand...

I went riding on glare ice. Once, I had a cop follow me for a mile or two, I guess just to see if I was gonna fall!
 
altitudefarmer

altitudefarmer

3,271
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[quote="souphead, post: 1050973, member: 1

Botrytis on the other hand is all strain, and environment. I have a wonderful high yielding cut that is particularly prone to it, if the humidity gets much over 50% once the big buds have formed it's almost guaranteed to get it. I quit running that cut for a while cause it was so depressing cutting into massive buds that were ruined by it.

[/quote]

Have you tried any systemic "cures" on that cut? Isn't botryitis (sp?) already present in the plant, like PM? I resorted to eagle20 in one garden I rescued, treating mother plants and restarting crop cycles after a thorough cleaning. Great results on PM; anyone had success vs gray bud mold?
 
We Solidarity

We Solidarity

1,610
263
I've noticed with higher humidity I get a lot more larfy buds, I can't keep a 2 ft canopy half as stacked in 70% than in 45%.

each of these is in 30-50% humidity ranges, with temps in the mid 70s. Buds would probably get bigger with an increased humidity, but I'd lose the rock-hard denseness and super packed sticky frost covering, instead having loose and oily buds.
IMG 0841 IMG 0761
 
souphead

souphead

10
3
altitudefarmer said:
Have you tried any systemic "cures" on that cut? Isn't botryitis (sp?) already present in the plant, like PM? I resorted to eagle20 in one garden I rescued, treating mother plants and restarting crop cycles after a thorough cleaning. Great results on PM; anyone had success vs gray bud mold?
Click to expand...

It's my understanding the spores for botrytis are very common and practically everywhere? It's basically the same thing as grey mold, the most common fungus there is. It takes root when conditions are right, and a plant is susceptible to it. I don't think it gets into the tissue and waits for the right conditions the way certain varieties of PM can? I eradicated my PM pretty much exactly as you describe, after it had spread to my other stock as well.

The cut in question did get treated with Eagle 20, while it did clear up the PM unfortunately she is still very susceptible to bud rot. The buds just get huge and thick and the rot starts in the center, Sometimes with no visible signs at all until it is well established then I'll see a couple telltale sickly leaves :( The one thing that seemed to help aside from keeping humidity down and air movement up is silica. It doesn't stop it, but it does seem to make her a little more resistant to it. If I ever do a room of her again, I will use HEPA filter(s) and try to keep the humidity in the 40's during the last half of flower. It can be a pain though, here in the PNW sometimes the intake air is very humid already.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

6,892
313
We Solidarity said:
I've noticed with higher humidity I get a lot more larfy buds, I can't keep a 2 ft canopy half as stacked in 70% than in 45%.

each of these is in 30-50% humidity ranges, with temps in the mid 70s. Buds would probably get bigger with an increased humidity, but I'd lose the rock-hard denseness and super packed sticky frost covering, instead having loose and oily buds.
View attachment 310854 View attachment 310855
Click to expand...

I don't doubt your personal experience, but I've had such a dramatically different experience with rh that I feel compelled to find out what variables might account for this. My buds are tight, hard and frosty- in the very same conditions you found so troublesome.

It's really easy in my climate to allow my room to dry out for a few days. Might that make the difference? Hmmmmm...
 
iscrog4food

iscrog4food

630
28
ttystikk said:
It's a sealed room, so the water vapor that plants transpire stays in the room until it's actively removed. Thus, a humidifier or swamp cooler is no longer required. Instead, figuring out how to get rid of the excess becomes your priority!
Click to expand...

I have a shipping container I'm growing in which is completely sealed air tight. My split sucks so much moisture out of there I'm running an evap cooler and can't get it above 45%
 
J

Jalisco Kid

Guest
iscrog4food said:
I have a shipping container I'm growing in which is completely sealed air tight. My split sucks so much moisture out of there I'm running an evap cooler and can't get it above 45%
Click to expand...
Try a faran 707 for about 8k of lights. JK
 
J

Jalisco Kid

Guest
I buy my farans from the manufacturer in Korea. Sonic foggers are a waste of good funtickets. All I ran are bare bulbs. JK
 
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