Masonsdad15
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Well lights down is less heat and therfore less foxtails right? Just saying. Helping out. Anyways what do you think about Bio-cozyme, (tps) Signal, or mb ferts Vitamin and hormone booster?I am not one to stake added nutrients. I use the massive on occasion and maybe something as a finisher. I have tried quite a few of the snake oil formulas and the less I use the better I seem to do.
And yes I turn the lights down to prevent foxtailing. Gavita and Fluence
I have full climate control, so if say I am pushing out an extra 2500 btu's from the lights the mini split just works harder. The further down the nutrient rabbit hole you go the more you find out these add ons actually do little to nothing. Take a look at this Thread "Ballin on a Budget" by Billfarthing. I am in no way shape or form associated with this guy but he seems to know one hell of a lot about nutrients and while these nutrient companies do a wonderful job of promoting their products it is just that hype. Less is more. Focus on the environment and let the plant uptake what it wants. If you want to listen to the guy at the nutrient store have at it, but while they had a lot more knowledge than I did in the beginning things have changed. Also if you are going to lesson to the guy at the hydro store make sure and ask him how much he is paying for said product because I know for a fact the reps give these guys free product to push their nutrients. Pretty shitty once you know the truth.Well lights down is less heat and therfore less foxtails right? Just saying. Helping out. Anyways what do you think about Bio-cozyme, (tps) Signal, or mb ferts Vitamin and hormone booster?
Yep you're right about the guys at the hydro shop. Pure salesman. Someone told them about the product no actual research or testing done. You're also right about environment, most people don't have that down so any additives the want to add are not likely going to show up In the end quality or wieght. But just imagine for a sec i do have my environment and feeding down. Well it's a constant battle lol. Always adjusting. So now I into the natural pgrs like triacontanol and Chitsan to stimulate the different plant hormones like auxins, Cytokinins, and Gibberellins. Next level. Found this product mb ferts vitamin and hormone booster and Vitazyme. Check em out. Been talking to the companies all week. Not the hydro store 20 dollar a hour guys.I have full climate control, so if say I am pushing out an extra 2500 btu's from the lights the mini split just works harder. The further down the nutrient rabbit hole you go the more you find out these add ons actually do little to nothing. Take a look at this Thread "Ballin on a Budget" by Billfarthing. I am in no way shape or form associated with this guy but he seems to know one hell of a lot about nutrients and while these nutrient companies do a wonderful job of promoting their products it is just that hype. Less is more. Focus on the environment and let the plant uptake what it wants. If you want to listen to the guy at the nutrient store have at it, but while they had a lot more knowledge than I did in the beginning things have changed. Also if you are going to lesson to the guy at the hydro store make sure and ask him how much he is paying for said product because I know for a fact the reps give these guys free product to push their nutrients. Pretty shitty once you know the truth.
Masterblend, Jacks and a few others are all you really need with some silica and fulvic in hydro. You can add some other stuff but the reward is not remarkable. At best maybe an extra QP per light
Sounds like we are kind of at different places. I mean so disrespect just saying different strokes for different folks.Yep you're right about the guys at the hydro shop. Pure salesman. Someone told them about the product no actual research or testing done. You're also right about environment, most people don't have that down so any additives the want to add are not likely going to show up In the end quality or wieght. But just imagine for a sec i do have my environment and feeding down. Well it's a constant battle lol. Always adjusting. So now I into the natural pgrs like triacontanol and Chitsan to stimulate the different plant hormones like auxins, Cytokinins, and Gibberellins. Next level. Found this product mb ferts vitamin and hormone booster and Vitazyme. Check em out. Been talking to the companies all week. Not the hydro store 20 dollar a hour guys.
Yeah it does seem so. Hit me up anytime bud. Thanks again.Sounds like we are kind of at different places. I mean so disrespect just saying different strokes for different folks.
Good Luck with Your Grow
Anthem Out
I just say your post about nutrients. You are Completely off the charts with Your BS. Cabs to start off with Joke. You want to talk about Fulvic Acid? Another Joke. So the story goes!!!Yeah it does seem so. Hit me up anytime bud. Thanks again.
Ok. Well you haven't explained anything. Like Two.more sentences and I will knownwhere you are at.I just say your post about nutrients. You are Completely off the charts with Your BS. Cabs to start off with Joke. You want to talk about Fulvic Acid? Another Joke. So the story goes!!!
Yeah I spoke with the regional director today and he confirmed it is the same recipe but different label.Bad foxtailing, not genetic foxtailing, IMO can be caused by heat, light intensity or a combination of both. The one time I did get it real bad I determined 100% is was caused by heat. Literally same strain, nothing changed except 3-5 degrees cooler and didn't get foxtails. This was my first run ever under DE light when I realized my buds temps were 3-4 degrees hotter than the room temps.
I can only speak based on some of the strains I've experience it with. Foxtailing from heat creates real airy foxtails, from light intensity they foxtail but they are hard. I also notice if its cause by light intensity you will see new pistils popping out late in flower.
I'm pretty sure I've read the difference in the Massive Bloom labelling is one is redistributed in Canada under GreenPlanet and the other is for the US.
It doesDoes anyone know if massive still have Triacontanol in it?
Hey bud. What week are they in? What's your room temp? What kind of lights they running and how close are they to the plants? What's your nutrients Ppm? How many ml per gal of massive are you using?Some up some down
Check your growing medium's ph, could be ph swings. I have the exact same thing happened using Massive but not sure that is what is causing it. My coco/soil's ph drifts up overtime especially later in flower when the plant is feeding less. My soil pH is around 6.4-6.5 and feed water anywhere between 5.5-5.8, they don't like it, I usually run a small flush with nute solution about half strength, 5.5 ph until I see soil runoff drop around 5.8-6.0 then lower my nute feed to 500ish ppm until the end.Some up some down
Thanks for replyCheck your growing medium's ph, could be ph swings. I have the exact same thing happened using Massive but not sure that is what is causing it. My coco/soil's ph drifts up overtime especially later in flower when the plant is feeding less. My soil pH is around 6.4-6.5 and feed water anywhere between 5.5-5.8, they don't like it, I usually run a small flush with nute solution about half strength, 5.5 ph until I see soil runoff drop around 5.8-6.0 then lower my nute feed to 500ish ppm until the end.
I can personally rule out heat/leaf temps and light stress. My leaf temps are always 24-25° and my lights are 28inches away at about 70%..(about 400watts). RH 40-45%
Massive is not for finishing, don't use it past end of week 5 or your buds will keep throwing white pistils and foxtails..guaranteed. No need to talk to regional manager about that...
Hope it helps wolf
Today is wk8 or wk6 since initial onset. How bout the liquid weight? Is that OK to use as a finisher or should I try terpinator or something similar ?Depends how far you are in flower, looks like a late week 5 week~week 6 to me. I end up at around 1000-1100ppm also when she curls funny like that. 500 ppm would be flushing mix strength, I flush until I get to about 700-800 then I monitor from there too see what the plant is doing. Up to you if you want to keep feeding into late flower but I keep my feed around 550-600ppm. Mainly sugars, fulvic acid and higher potassium for me works great
Ok coolLiquid weight is your sugar, terp is only K, purp is P-K. Good to have the phosphorus also in the end for a while. If you don't have another source of phosphorus in you mix I would go with purpinator, If you do.. just use terp or equivalent. I like kelp personally over terpinator or a mix of both. One day kelp one day terp for example. Also cut the calmag if you're using Massive, will make things worst in my opinion.
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