GanjaAL said:

Sorry brother... I am glad I caught your input brother before I forked out tons of money on the met... I am deffinately going with Cap's Packs for sure and nothing else. You should start a thread on how you used Cap's packs to get your other room handled.

hope it gets better for you brother.

Click to expand...

For sure I'm still doing some major over hauling at my op to get this under control and I wanna make sure that this fukers don't come back or anything. In about 2-3 weeks I'll def do a thread about how CAP's packs kicked my RA's ass.

I'm doing a total breakdown after I'm done with one of my flower rooms, total cleaning, new floor, etc

If fact I'll be picking up like 8 more kilos of his stuff (sounds crazy to say that haha, kilos) but I use an entire kilo per time per watering, I got trees!

I'm still gonna continue to use Met just because I have it but I won't be buying anymore.

Does it work, I am still learning toward no but who knows!

Can't PM, but would like to get ordering info for Met52, thanks OneSpark

I will be getting met 52 today and will report on my progress with it...

I added met52 to the medium on 2/5/2012. Then put into a 60 gallon drum.
Week later can see mycelium growing on the top. Not positive if that is solely from the met52. It was originally growing near the rice grains, but now can see the strands all throughout the medium.

2 weeks later can see mycelium "fuzz" spreading but mainly is visible in spots.

Will probably transplant into the medium after one more week.

Anyone else got the fuzz on top? Hoping some shrooms sprout up. Then I know it will be a good run...lol. fungi for the win :)


-lead

I have a closed jar partway full of earthworm castings with a bunch of Cap's foliar pack kicking it in my veg area.
I do see a similar mycelial-looking fuzz on my ewcs in the jar.
Figured maybe I would learn something new if I did this.
It did take a while, longer than I had expected, for the fuzz to show.
Jar stays around 78-80 with the rest of the room.

Edit-does anyone know the difference between Triazicide(spectracide product, lambda-cyhalothrin) and Cutter brand stuff(gamma-cyhalothrin)

Is one of them going to kill me slowly with a disease that makes me bleed out my ass or anything? Because I am looking to avoid that.

If I were not so broke I would buy a shit-ton of Cap's foliar, and rock that until all those RAs were gone for good.

But HD had imid and cyhalothrin on sale. I can't afford to lose any more results or time to RAs. And I think I have a big enough cushion of health now, I was very concerned about how my body would react with exposure to anything extra before. I feel like I can heal through the tiny bit of exposure I will certainly endure.

I still want to find a way to enhance their suffering.
Maybe I will start feeding them wheat so they can develop intestinal and immune disorders in 30 years.
Fuck a root aphid.
I like watching them all fucked up in dishes of runoff after they have been infected. They seem starving and agitated. They will eventually attack one another. They will bite each other fiercely, and then one will be all fucked up, stop moving, and curl into that C shape and stay there.
It is better than television. I give them names. I cheer and talk shit. I do color commentary while they battle.
"Melvin is very dangerous on the feet. And so explosive!
"But Joe's high level jiu-jitsu could pose a serious threat if he can get it to the ground.
"Blocked high kick, and-
"Oh! He walked right into that one! He's rocked!
"And here comes Melvin with the vicious ground and pound!
"AND IT IS ALL OVER!"

Kinda haven't seen enough people lately lol.

Edit again-Maybe I should just find the extra few hundred dollars and just get nuclear with Cap's foliar. Because
#1 It kills them
#2 It will NOT give you a disease that kills you slowly from bleeding out your ass.

It is probably worth a few hundred dollars to not ingest poisons.

Remember when several people were trying to cockblock Cap from having himself a business where he sold things like foliar packs that provide RA control, and can be drenched in, and are safe for people?

I remember that shit. I will never forget that shit.
Thought I should remind everyone of that.

leadsled said:

I added met52 to the medium on 2/5/2012. Then put into a 60 gallon drum.
Week later can see mycelium growing on the top. Not positive if that is solely from the met52. It was originally growing near the rice grains, but now can see the strands all throughout the medium.

2 weeks later can see mycelium "fuzz" spreading but mainly is visible in spots.

Will probably transplant into the medium after one more week.

Anyone else got the fuzz on top? Hoping some shrooms sprout up. Then I know it will be a good run...lol. fungi for the win :)

-lead

Click to expand...

Yup, i got the "fuzz" too. I attributed it to the soil/ coco (its in both) bing too moist from the fct that roots arent drawing up water/food fast enough. I scooped off about 1/3 in. Of medium off the top to be sure. 1 statement, FUCK PHYLOXERRA! Serious. Wish you the best! , peace MOTIV!

motiv303 said:

Yup, i got the "fuzz" too. I attributed it to the soil/ coco (its in both) bing too moist from the fct that roots arent drawing up water/food fast enough. I scooped off about 1/3 in. Of medium off the top to be sure. 1 statement, FUCK PHYLOXERRA! Serious. Wish you the best! , peace MOTIV!

Click to expand...

thanks for sharing, I have not found any ra in the coco yet + there isnt any plants in the medium yet. just want to be safe with all the reports of ra's in canna coco coir. my local source of just coir stopped carrying it and I went with canna instead. Dont want to have my next round shit the bed once I go to flower.

good luck to you too.

Damn, just lost my whole fucking post. Redux:

I understand where you are coming from dankworth. I remember laying naked under my plants getting blocky shade from leaves and enjoying the bright light in the middle of the winter. It seems like it's been a while since I felt safe doing that and it's a crying shame. So, lets find a way to beat the fuckers.

The good news: pyrethroids have been found much more effective at killing phylloxera than imidacloprid. They are non-systemic and thus likely more safe than the Neonicotinoids (like imidacloprid).

The just OK news: the consumer formulations of the pyrethroids often have rather nasty petroleum distillates in them to keep the chemicals in suspension. Based on my personal experience with them I would defiantly wear a respirator and gloves, and probably wear latex gloves while touching the soil for at least a week after the treatment.

The bad news: Because it is not systemic, you will have to keep applying pyrethroids. Applications every 5 days seems to be recommended, based on the potential 5 day life cycle of phylloxera under optimum conditions.

On the difference between gamma and lambada: According to what I'm reading below I think gamma is a single isomer of cyhalothrin, where-as lambada is a mix of isomers:

It is known that some isomers have a greater insecticidal effect than others, and this has led to the development of techniques to separate the more-active isomers and to convert the less-active isomers into the more-active ones. Conversion between isomers is characterized by the base chemical, which promotes the desired epimerization
through proton removal at the carbon atom bearing the cyano group (Cleugh and Milner 1994). Gamma-cyhalothrin is a single stereoisomer that has effective insecticidal activity, with a much lower total reported use in California. source:

Click to expand...

I'm going to mix met52 into my coco chow mix tonight in preparation for a transplant in a week or so. I think I may start a separate thread about it as I will be doing so different things, I'll be sure to mention if I do as I hope to have lots of valuable information to share.

Some more reading:

http://npic.orst.edu/factsheets/l_cyhalogen.pdf

:makeup :rock :blush

girlwondergrows said:

Damn, just lost my whole fucking post. Redux:

I understand where you are coming from dankworth. I remember laying naked under my plants getting blocky shade from leaves and enjoying the bright light in the middle of the winter. It seems like it's been a while since I felt safe doing that and it's a crying shame. So, lets find a way to beat the fuckers.

The good news: pyrethroids have been found much more effective at killing phylloxera than imidacloprid. They are non-systemic and thus likely more safe than the Neonicotinoids (like imidacloprid).

The just OK news: the consumer formulations of the pyrethroids often have rather nasty petroleum distillates in them to keep the chemicals in suspension. Based on my personal experience with them I would defiantly wear a respirator and gloves, and probably wear latex gloves while touching the soil for at least a week after the treatment.

The bad news: Because it is not systemic, you will have to keep applying pyrethroids. Applications every 5 days seems to be recommended, based on the potential 5 day life cycle of phylloxera under optimum conditions.

On the difference between gamma and lambada: According to what I'm reading below I think gamma is a single isomer of cyhalothrin, where-as lambada is a mix of isomers:


I'm going to mix met52 into my coco chow mix tonight in preparation for a transplant in a week or so. I think I may start a separate thread about it as I will be doing so different things, I'll be sure to mention if I do as I hope to have lots of valuable information to share.

Some more reading:

http://npic.orst.edu/factsheets/l_cyhalogen.pdf

Click to expand...

what pyrethrin product out performs Merit 75?

exciteR 6%

cant say its any better - the site I cured of aphids was hit by a many prong aproach and the exciteR 2ml gal rounded out the nuking I did

motherlode said:

exciteR 6%

cant say its any better - the site I cured of aphids was hit by a many prong aproach and the exciteR 2ml gal rounded out the nuking I did

Click to expand...

Sweet ML...

is that the powder I have seen in the store? The H2O soluble stuff?

I know outdoor guys who like that stuff for spider mites, also.


Its like the strongest pyrethrin you can buy right now, huh? Without papers anyway, I heard.

The synthetic pyrethroids have more success reported, these are the cyhalothrins (triazacide) and Bifenthrin (several brands). Can't find the links now, but they were posted in this or the other big RA thread: research showing that imidacloprid wasn't that effective at killing phylloxera.

If you are looking for a systemic that works, I've heard great things about Movento. Haven't done the research yet but others have had good results I hear. Only has a 4 week residual effect so a bit safer than the 120 days of imidacloprid. Downside: 1200 a gallon. Ouch.

girlwondergrows said:

The synthetic pyrethroids have more success reported, these are the cyhalothrins (triazacide) and Bifenthrin (several brands). Can't find the links now, but they were posted in this or the other big RA thread: research showing that imidacloprid wasn't that effective at killing phylloxera.

If you are looking for a systemic that works, I've heard great things about Movento. Haven't done the research yet but others have had good results I hear. Only has a 4 week residual effect so a bit safer than the 120 days of imidacloprid. Downside: 1200 a gallon. Ouch.

Click to expand...

Merit 75 has a 60 systemic residual.

Not 120.

I called and spoke with Bayer last year about it.

what phylloxera?

If its RA's ...that research is bunk.


The over the counter home depot remedies you listed are the ones that have seen people use that can NEVER seem to get rid of them.

not counting the 1200 dollar a jug stuff....lol....wowie thats a lot of change.

girlwondergrows said:

The synthetic pyrethroids have more success reported, these are the cyhalothrins (triazacide) and Bifenthrin (several brands). Can't find the links now, but they were posted in this or the other big RA thread: research showing that imidacloprid wasn't that effective at killing phylloxera.

If you are looking for a systemic that works, I've heard great things about Movento. Haven't done the research yet but others have had good results I hear. Only has a 4 week residual effect so a bit safer than the 120 days of imidacloprid. Downside: 1200 a gallon. Ouch.

Click to expand...

Hi, do you have a source for movento? I have not been able to find it anywhere. Kontos is $160 for 250 ml, movento is half the price and more concentrated.

There seem to be a couple different species of insect being called "root aphids"- the main one (and the one I have) is called phylloxera. It's mainly a grape pest, and I think the proximity of the emerald triangle (and several soil companies) to California wine country partly explains the explosion of infestations we've seen.
Here is an info sheet on the pest: http://www.uaex.edu/Other_Areas/publications/PDF/FSA-7074.pdf

Can't find the source for that info, will keep looking but one thing to consider is that even a moderately effective systemic will work better than a very effective short acting poison with one application. Phylloxera take about 5 days after hatching to start laying eggs, so repeated application of the pyrethrins is vital.

I'm not having any problems with RA but I have been using Met since last June, just got through my first 22lb bag. Lasted like 8 months with non-stop harvests. I have had killer success, but I would never assume that they are gone. If I quit using Met I would wager that I'd be having symptoms sooner than later. I also keep excite R on hand but haven't used it since last summer. If drenching medium, follow immediately with a P-bomb. The boys down at the grow store say they swear on a product called Mallet. I don't know anything about it, but they say its a cure for RA. Good luck with those battles everybody.

One more thing-
Pretreating medium with IMID and capping with sand or perlite is a method I have seen used by large scale growers with great success.

-A

girlwondergrows said:

There seem to be a couple different species of insect being called "root aphids"- the main one (and the one I have) is called phylloxera. It's mainly a grape pest, and I think the proximity of the emerald triangle (and several soil companies) to California wine country partly explains the explosion of infestations we've seen.
Here is an info sheet on the pest: http://www.uaex.edu/Other_Areas/publications/PDF/FSA-7074.pdf

Can't find the source for that info, will keep looking but one thing to consider is that even a moderately effective systemic will work better than a very effective short acting poison with one application. Phylloxera take about 5 days after hatching to start laying eggs, so repeated application of the pyrethrins is vital.

Click to expand...

Well one application of Merit is all it takes.

Once and done.

altimood said:

One more thing-
Pretreating medium with IMID and capping with sand or perlite is a method I have seen used by large scale growers with great success.

-A

Click to expand...

I veg in 5 inch pots for a few weeks after roots pop out.

This is where I use the Merit.

After the 5" pot it's onto 3 gallon short pots for a few weeks

Finally they go into a planter to finish.

edit: I cap with DE

I hit em once, a week after they go into the 5" pots.

This is just a part of my IPM program, but I dont get RA's. At all.

And I had a crop ruining infestation at one point.

Buddy Hemphill said:

I veg in 5 inch pots for a few weeks after roots pop out.

This is where I use the Merit.

After the 5" pot it's onto 3 gallon short pots for a few weeks

Finally they go into a planter to finish.



I hit em once, a week after they go into the 5" pots.

This is just a part of my IPM program, but I dont get RA's. At all.

And I had a crop ruining infestation at one point.

Click to expand...

And that's the ticket. You need a program. Glad to hear you're beating those little fuckers Buddy. Too many people out here getting their asses kicked.