Mimed’s Perpetual Thread

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edray2052

edray2052

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Good tip!

However i am a very dry cycle grower. Most would panic at how dry my soil gets. Lol

I have only ever had a couple visible even with years of ocean forest.

And they have always disapeared with more attention to drying out pots further or if the room was too crowded, when it thinned out.

I think the soil bags i got were heavily infected and some survived this time.

I have positively identified the flyers as fungus gnats but hope severely for no root aphids.

@MIMedGrower - I recognize that this is a very old post that I'm replying to, but I just found this thread and I'm just going to read it cover to cover! But wanted to ask a quick question -- do you have any advice/tips for a new grower that's trying to figure out how much water his seedling/early veg plants need (I'm in FFOF as well, cut with a bit of a coco coir and perlite)? Once I'm into stretch/flower, I think I've got a pretty good handle on what they need and when...but I'm pretty clueless in the early going as far as how often, how much, when to start watering to runoff, etc. Thanks in advance! And I'm really looking forward to reading through this entire thread and learning from someone that clearly has a wealth of experience growing this wonderful plant. Happy growing!
 
MIMedGrower

MIMedGrower

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@MIMedGrower - I recognize that this is a very old post that I'm replying to, but I just found this thread and I'm just going to read it cover to cover! But wanted to ask a quick question -- do you have any advice/tips for a new grower that's trying to figure out how much water his seedling/early veg plants need (I'm in FFOF as well, cut with a bit of a coco coir and perlite)? Once I'm into stretch/flower, I think I've got a pretty good handle on what they need and when...but I'm pretty clueless in the early going as far as how often, how much, when to start watering to runoff, etc. Thanks in advance! And I'm really looking forward to reading through this entire thread and learning from someone that clearly has a wealth of experience growing this wonderful plant. Happy growing!


Thanks for stopping in. :-)

Funny the last pic i posted was about that exact question. I water the 18oz plastic cup the tap tooted seed goes in to to runoff from the beginning. Then wait 7-10 days or so til its dry enough to do it again. Then a couple weeks later i transplant up to a 1 gallon pot and do it again. I dont mess around with small plants in large pots and water only a little bit at a time. Although that can work fine too.

I do caution to water seedlings slowly and carefully to not damage fragile new roots.
 
edray2052

edray2052

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Thanks for stopping in. :-)

Funny the last pic i posted was about that exact question. I water the 18oz plastic cup the tap tooted seed goes in to to runoff from the beginning. Then wait 7-10 days or so til its dry enough to do it again. Then a couple weeks later i transplant up to a 1 gallon pot and do it again. I dont mess around with small plants in large pots and water only a little bit at a time. Although that can work fine too.

I do caution to water seedlings slowly and carefully to not damage fragile new roots.

Thank you!
 
Frankster

Frankster

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Thanks for stopping in. :-)

Funny the last pic i posted was about that exact question. I water the 18oz plastic cup the tap tooted seed goes in to to runoff from the beginning. Then wait 7-10 days or so til its dry enough to do it again. Then a couple weeks later i transplant up to a 1 gallon pot and do it again. I dont mess around with small plants in large pots and water only a little bit at a time. Although that can work fine too.

I do caution to water seedlings slowly and carefully to not damage fragile new roots.

So getting the nutes dialed in precisely is likely critical with this "drier" approach? I think I remember you once stating you "move from deficiency to deficiency" and just keep addressing each one independently from one another... (I could be mistaken, it might not have been you). I would think that high ppm would be the main problems arising from a drier grow.

Is that a fair assumption?
 
dire wolf

dire wolf

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Thanks for stopping in. :-)

Funny the last pic i posted was about that exact question. I water the 18oz plastic cup the tap tooted seed goes in to to runoff from the beginning. Then wait 7-10 days or so til its dry enough to do it again. Then a couple weeks later i transplant up to a 1 gallon pot and do it again. I dont mess around with small plants in large pots and water only a little bit at a time. Although that can work fine too.

I do caution to water seedlings slowly and carefully to not damage fragile new roots.
" I don't mess around with small plants in large pots "
Please take MIM advice on this one .........

I feel like it's one of the biggest challenges to new growers ...
I'm a big fan of starting small and up potting as you grow
 
Frankster

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I agree, sequentially potting is a big part of what I do. It's a lot more work, but it's worth the effort. I usually upgrade about 3-5 times, depending on the plant.

The abundance of oxygen causes the roots to fork and divide, instead of just getting longer and languishing along the bottoms of the containers.

With this one, I didn't even strip off the pot, I just replanted it into another cloth pot, and I will sort it out post mortem
 
IMG 20210213 211359742
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MIMedGrower

MIMedGrower

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So getting the nutes dialed in precisely is likely critical with this "drier" approach? I think I remember you once stating you "move from deficiency to deficiency" and just keep addressing each one independently from one another... (I could be mistaken, it might not have been you). I would think that high ppm would be the main problems arising from a drier grow.

Is that a fair assumption?


i never said that. If anything i say the opposite and not to micro manage but to keep ec low and manage the medium as a whole.

but with ocean forest there is nothing. To manage. I will water only through transplants every 2-3 weeks and start fertilizing about week 2-3 in 12/12.

i say always err on the side of underfeeding.
 
MIMedGrower

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I agree, sequentially potting is a big part of what I do. It's a lot more work, but it's worth the effort. I usually upgrade about 3-5 times, depending on the plant.

The abundant oxygen causes the roots to fork, instead of just getting longer and twisting inside the pot.

With this one, I didn't even strip off the pot, I just replanted it into another cloth pot, and I will sort it out post mortem


I like to up pot when the roots are full and just bursting out of the pot and the dry cycle gets them to develop nice little extensions rather than all thick water roots.

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when done at the right time smooth and quickly no stress after transplant is observed. And new growth can happen immediately.
 
Frankster

Frankster

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i never said that. If anything i say the opposite and not to micro manage but to keep ec low and manage the medium as a whole.

but with ocean forest there is nothing. To manage. I will water only through transplants every 2-3 weeks and start fertilizing about week 2-3 in 12/12.

i say always err on the side of underfeeding.

Yea, I knew I didn't phrase it correctly, "err on side of under-feeding". I'm trying to work from your same principles. I think overfeeding is often at "the root" of many problems, so I think letting the plant tell you what it needs makes a more sense.

I've been reconditioning a lot of soil and recycling it, so I'm not always starting out exactly the same every time. I have to say it's impressive with how the plant comes out of them pots nice and clean, but I also like the root matrix that the cloth air pots create. Less "roping" effect. It certainly is more traumatic stripping off the cloth pots. But, Regardless of the technique, I think roots are a huge indicator of general plant health and vigor.

I also think roots are much like lungs or kidney tissues, there's lot of overhead "reserve" capacity naturally built into them, and it can be teased out more with the right approaches. If you've got lots of nice healthy roots, good things are bound to happen.
 
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chemistry

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I agree, sequentially potting is a big part of what I do. It's a lot more work, but it's worth the effort. I usually upgrade about 3-5 times, depending on the plant.

The abundance of oxygen causes the roots to fork and divide, instead of just getting longer and languishing along the bottoms of the containers.

With this one, I didn't even strip off the pot, I just replanted it into another cloth pot, and I will sort it out post mortem


This is the prime time to pot up, dagger roots pointing down, looking for new soil to grow into. 👍
 
Moshmen

Moshmen

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I like to up pot when the roots are full and just bursting out of the pot and the dry cycle gets them to develop nice little extensions rather than all thick water roots.

View attachment 1093652

when done at the right time smooth and quickly no stress after transplant is observed. And new growth can happen immediately.
Huge fan of this technique! Works well and helps minimize feeding/watering/ph mistakes and who ever said don’t transplant autos ? Well they don’t do it correct - I up pot 3 times and thinkin bout addin 4 th in the future to 5 gallon - anyways I almost copy and paste ur technique and one of the best things I ever did !
 
Kanzeon

Kanzeon

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This is funny, because I've taken the exact opposite approach to transplanting. They'll stay in those little 3x3 pots WAY longer than most people would think of, then get rootbound and pause growth for a bit. Some stress flower or herm at this point (inducing this is part of the point), they get tossed in the garbage. Most of my plants get held like this for a while until there's room to flower.

When they do eventually get flipped, the growth is explosive. Going from one cup of soil to 2 gallons of it, the roots just kind of bolt out in all directions and they're ready to flip in a couple weeks.
 
MIMedGrower

MIMedGrower

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This is funny, because I've taken the exact opposite approach to transplanting. They'll stay in those little 3x3 pots WAY longer than most people would think of, then get rootbound and pause growth for a bit. Some stress flower or herm at this point (inducing this is part of the point), they get tossed in the garbage. Most of my plants get held like this for a while until there's room to flower.

When they do eventually get flipped, the growth is explosive. Going from one cup of soil to 2 gallons of it, the roots just kind of bolt out in all directions and they're ready to flip in a couple weeks.


many perpetual growers do it like you say. You keep a holding pattern of plants ready to go. I like it but i only want 4-5 staggered veg plants max in my 3x3 tent so i try to time the next plants needed from seed.


Honestly I should have planted more im having trouble filling the room with all the problems i dealt with this year and now using the too old pro mix without thinking.


what a year huh.
 
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