Beachwalker
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No, because my tap is 100 PPM which is my alkalinity if I'm understanding that article correctly (and I'm probably not) and after I adjust its pH it adds less than 10 PPMEver think the ph down is causing the need for the extra lime?
Its all about balance.
Your alkalinity is carbonate and bicarbonate which is measured in ppm. Your tap ppm is not made up of all carbonate and bicarbonate. This is where say calcium nitrate at 100 ppm will actually lower ph and not affect alkalinity. Where as 100 ppm of calcium carbonate will raise ph and alkalinity. This is why RO and low carbonate/bicarbonate water sees big ph swings. Alkalinity is the ability to buffer acid it provides stability to phNo, because my tap is 100 PPM which is my alkalinity if I'm understanding that article correctly (and I'm probably not) and after I adjust its pH it adds less than 10 PPM
And the new masterblend brings my 8.9 down to 6.4 every time so I'm adding even less pH product overall then before
I'll reread dirtbags article in the morning I'm sure I'm missing something
No, because my tap is 100 PPM which is my alkalinity if I'm understanding that article correctly (and I'm probably not) and after I adjust its pH it adds less than 10 PPM
And the new masterblend brings my 8.9 down to 6.4 every time so I'm adding even less pH product overall then before
I'll reread dirtbags article in the morning I'm sure I'm missing something
@Beachwalker if you google your local water report. Look at the carbonate hardness this will be say 30ppm the bicarbonate hardness will always be much lower in relation like 3ppm. Sodium, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, phosphates etc will make up the rest to give you a total of 100ppm now depending on the sources used like calcium carbonate which is very common in water supplies will be the largest contributor. Ergo why you carbonate is high while sources of bicarbonates are not as commonly used. The total of both make up the alkalinity of the water. You could have the same alkalinity with 100ppm water as you do with 300ppm water. It's not the ppm but the alkalinity which is measured in ppm
I guess we don't love the ad's>>>>>> this could ture into a light talk:) LOLI forgot you hate simple user friendly reliable rarely hacked I phones and choose complicated poorly designed glichy operating systems.
Good for you!
I guess we don't love the ad's>>>>>> this could ture into a light talk:) LOL
Kill the apple train.... :) lol
good morning sir
I'm pass lost all ready so, i'm hanging out and will keep my month shut:)No, because my tap is 100 PPM which is my alkalinity if I'm understanding that article correctly (and I'm probably not) and after I adjust its pH it adds less than 10 PPM
And the new masterblend brings my 8.9 down to 6.4 every time so I'm adding even less pH product overall then before
I'll reread dirtbags article in the morning I'm sure I'm missing something
Are we getting to the point where I have to find my most recent Water Report from my city LOL because that's where I draw the line!Your alkalinity is carbonate and bicarbonate which is measured in ppm. Your tap ppm is not made up of all carbonate and bicarbonate. This is where say calcium nitrate at 100 ppm will actually lower ph and not affect alkalinity. Where as 100 ppm of calcium carbonate will raise ph and alkalinity. This is why RO and low carbonate/bicarbonate water sees big ph swings. Alkalinity is the ability to buffer water it provides stability to ph
I'm with you believe me!I'm pass lost all ready so, i'm hanging out and will keep my month shut:)
I understand thisI think I can explain simply.
Only the calcium in your 100 ppm water is responsible for alkalinity. They use 150ppm as the ideal water mineral content to ensure the calcium is at least 70ppm.
Your water may be fine to use unadjusted and the fact the master blend brings it down to the perfect ph is another good indicator you need no adjustment.
When you add acid (ph down) it is neutralizing the calcium (the alkalinity) and continued watering the medium with the acid will eventually neutralize more of the buffer in the soil.
Then you need to add lime to bring it back up.
I hope that made sense. Only 250 ppm and up water is recommended to mix with ro or add acid. Because it is likely too hard or allaline. And watering with it would be like adding lime each time. So you neutralize it to 150 ppm to correct.
100 ppm water is not likely to change the ph of the medium just like ro water has no buffer and instantly takes on the ph of the medium or whatever it is mixed with.
Sorry. Didnt mean to go so long.
Good mornin’. Nice to see ya.
I understand this
I understand people's water is screwed
but I can't get my head around why your using ph up and down to keep running around the car, seem to me in my mind you guys are casing this perfect # in your head, that the man up stairs didn't put out there.....
when this all started there was no ph up and down= there was water......
so I'm Really Lost here with all these ppm..ec.% stuff wow seems to me like this is more a Job then anything :) Now I'll shut up
Still the middle of the night here lol..
Yet we are both a west coast.
yes sir build sits west-east for doors it's just coming up
See this is what I don't agree with: I don't see why not take the step and give the particular medium What It Wants? I would never count on the soil to have or not have the proper amount, or enough buffers left to adjust my water for me, I don't see it as a big issue to adjust it to The Sweet Spot for a particular mediumI have been explaining why I dont use ph up or down. I know its only needed with really hard water.
See this is what I don't agree with: I don't see why not take the step and give the particular medium What It Wants? I would never count on the medium to have or not have the proper amount or enough buffers to adjust my water for me, I don't see it as a big issue to adjust it to The Sweet Spot for a particular medium
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