more nute's or try some cal-mag ?

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H.man

H.man

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Ok youre information is helping me a lot thanks already !

I have been measuring with a cheap 40€
Pen Ph meter. , this week I will have a bleulab soil meter.
But pretty sure in general my ph is to low.
By the end of this week I'll be able.to confirm it 100% and from then I'll really start measuring the ph values from the start .

This dolemite lime is it not the same as chalk then ?
I have to do more research on that.
I can't seem to find it in the local store either
I bought this (blue box I took a picture ) of thinking it was lime 🙈 on the box it says “green chalk “

Will buy some real lime and test on 2 plants

I will keep you posted
 
FuriousStyles

FuriousStyles

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So its 2 weeks later of using straight tap water.
You are week 6-7 of flower?
The calcium is fine at this point and what the plant will be wanting.
You also have a high need for Potassium now and could be what is lacking.
The video from a week ago shows leaves with green veins, leading me to believe Phosphorous is good.
When was last time you added Nitrogen?

Think about it this way. You can break your flower time into two parts. Early and Late flower.
Early flower (weeks1-4) high Nitrogen and Phos demands weeks.
Late flower (weeks 5-9) high Potassium, Nitrogen tapers off as does Phosphorous.
Timing having the nutrients available is what is needed. Making them available to the plant. Usually adding the week before they are needed.

Allowing the plant to cannibalize itself at the end is not a bad thing.
A natural "flush", allowing the plant to use up everything left in the soil as opposed to washing it out with water.
 
PK1

PK1

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im surprised no one has thought of telling him to do a soil slurry test to find out what the ph and ec of the soil is.
once you figure those numbers than you can take actions. giving it two weeks of tap water has definitely removed the salt build up.
 
Moshmen

Moshmen

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Slurry absolutely- quick note about the Dolomite lime first it’s readily available in powder form even from Amazon - it’s slow acting ! Meaning it may be a week or two before you see any thing / I’m not recommending lime yet just throwin info your way. Also it is best used mixed in your soil before ur grow it will help stablize that ph . Final thought ph drops from any fish store or again Amazon cheap accurate and easy to use just my opinions
 
FuriousStyles

FuriousStyles

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Just a side note. I would not change any thing or add anything to what I am already doing here @H.man. Not till I know for sure if just using tap water that has not been ph'd fix's the original problem you created a thread about. The plant with the issues is not going to come back lush and green. Things do not work like that. You need to be looking at the other plants and see if just the water change makes the difference in what you were originally wanting to know.

"i have grown many plants AND ALWAYS AROUND THIS TIME(flower time) they start turning yellow and i think it because im not using any cal mag suplements?"

My friend you are not going to know till you grow something in fresh soil from seed and just use tap water. Every other plant that is going right now has had the soil "contaminated" by ph down and possible high calcium levels (from your nutrient line). Soil can not be completely flushed, its not coco.

In the video I see rust SPOTS on the leaves all over the plants. That is calcium excess. You also have a bad case of Mag deficiency which is why everything is turning yellow. There are plenty of nutrients in the soil and plant, which is why you could not pull that dead leaf off the plant. Simply put, if you just use tap water with added epsom salt (once a week or once every other week) and stop using your nutrient with the high calcium for a couple weeks on your other plants, that should keep them from looking like the one you originally posted about.
 
FuriousStyles

FuriousStyles

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The original plant is done, you can not bring it back. You can harvest it and get smoke off it, but it is done. You need to be looking for improvements in the ones not at that stage. The others are where you will see correction and improvement.
 
T

TryingToGrow

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Slurry absolutely- quick note about the Dolomite lime first it’s readily available in powder form even from Amazon - it’s slow acting ! Meaning it may be a week or two before you see any thing / I’m not recommending lime yet just throwin info your way. Also it is best used mixed in your soil before ur grow it will help stablize that ph . Final thought ph drops from any fish store or again Amazon cheap accurate and easy to use just my opinions
A little dolomite lime in a little water, results were ~ instant.
BF39C661 822A 4705 B7BB 9EE337BAE1BA

5C184978 EE9F 40CF BD0B 8F52EF111E9C

I use it all the time when making soil mixes for different plants, when mixing into soil, results just as fast so long as it’s powdered and the soil is moist or the pellets are ‘broken down’ in water. I do suggest giving it a day or two at least for the pH to stabilize a bit if making any big pH changes.

I would say the hardest part of adding it to a pot with a plant already in it, is to get it dispersed evenly throughout the pot, since it's not water soluble but still, not to difficult to do a 'good enough' job. Ideally done over the course of a few waterings.
 
Last edited:
Moshmen

Moshmen

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Just a side note. I would not change any thing or add anything to what I am already doing here @H.man. Not till I know for sure if just using tap water that has not been ph'd fix's the original problem you created a thread about. The plant with the issues is not going to come back lush and green. Things do not work like that. You need to be looking at the other plants and see if just the water change makes the difference in what you were originally wanting to know.

"i have grown many plants AND ALWAYS AROUND THIS TIME(flower time) they start turning yellow and i think it because im not using any cal mag suplements?"

My friend you are not going to know till you grow something in fresh soil from seed and just use tap water. Every other plant that is going right now has had the soil "contaminated" by ph down and possible high calcium levels (from your nutrient line). Soil can not be completely flushed, its not coco.

In the video I see rust SPOTS on the leaves all over the plants. That is calcium excess. You also have a bad case of Mag deficiency which is why everything is turning yellow. There are plenty of nutrients in the soil and plant, which is why you could not pull that dead leaf off the plant. Simply put, if you just use tap water with added epsom salt (once a week or once every other week) and stop using your nutrient with the high calcium for a couple weeks on your other plants, that should keep them from looking like the one you originally posted about.
They go yellow at flower more than likely cuz of nitro def. If you use bloom nutes most cut back to much on the nitro try using a balance nute longer
 
Moshmen

Moshmen

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A little dolomite lime in a little water, results were ~ instant. View attachment 1201723
View attachment 1201724
I use it all the time when making soil mixes for different plants, when mixing into soil, results just as fast so long as it’s powdered and the soil is moist or the pellets are ‘broken down’ in water. I do suggest giving it a day or two at least for the pH to stabilize a bit if making any big pH changes.

I would say the hardest part of adding it to a pot with a plant already in it, is to get it dispersed evenly throughout the pot, since it's not water soluble but still, not to difficult to do a 'good enough' job. Ideally done over the course of a few waterings.
You are measuring it and yeah absolutely you will see it on a meter right away - but it doesn’t work like that with the soil and water uptake it will not be an instant fix ! Lime is a long term buffer !
 
T

TryingToGrow

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You are measuring it and yeah absolutely you will see it on a meter right away - but it doesn’t work like that with the soil and water uptake it will not be an instant fix ! Lime is a long term buffer !
That is for sure interesting and news to me.

So if I have soil at 5.5 pH and mix in dolomite lime till my meters say I’m at 5.8pH, how long do I have to wait till my soil is 5.8pH or for my meters to be correct in their readings in case it changes over that period of time?
 
H.man

H.man

23
3
Very interesting all^

First off I wish you all a very happy new year and 2022 to be successful growing year !
 
H.man

H.man

23
3
Just a side note. I would not change any thing or add anything to what I am already doing here @H.man. Not till I know for sure if just using tap water that has not been ph'd fix's the original problem you created a thread about. The plant with the issues is not going to come back lush and green. Things do not work like that. You need to be looking at the other plants and see if just the water change makes the difference in what you were originally wanting to know.

"i have grown many plants AND ALWAYS AROUND THIS TIME(flower time) they start turning yellow and i think it because im not using any cal mag suplements?"

My friend you are not going to know till you grow something in fresh soil from seed and just use tap water. Every other plant that is going right now has had the soil "contaminated" by ph down and possible high calcium levels (from your nutrient line). Soil can not be completely flushed, its not coco.

In the video I see rust SPOTS on the leaves all over the plants. That is calcium excess. You also have a bad case of Mag deficiency which is why everything is turning yellow. There are plenty of nutrients in the soil and plant, which is why you could not pull that dead leaf off the plant. Simply put, if you just use tap water with added epsom salt (once a week or once every other week) and stop using your nutrient with the high calcium for a couple weeks on your other plants, that should keep them from looking like the one you originally posted about.
So its 2 weeks later of using straight tap water.
You are week 6-7 of flower?
The calcium is fine at this point and what the plant will be wanting.
You also have a high need for Potassium now and could be what is lacking.
The video from a week ago shows leaves with green veins, leading me to believe Phosphorous is good.
When was last time you added Nitrogen?

Think about it this way. You can break your flower time into two parts. Early and Late flower.
Early flower (weeks1-4) high Nitrogen and Phos demands weeks.
Late flower (weeks 5-9) high Potassium, Nitrogen tapers off as does Phosphorous.
Timing having the nutrients available is what is needed. Making them available to the plant. Usually adding the week before they are needed.

Allowing the plant to cannibalize itself at the end is not a bad thing.
A natural "flush", allowing the plant to use up everything left in the soil as opposed to washing it out with water.
I'm not completely sure about one thing you are saying?
You say the rust spots are calcium excess signs
But I had very low ph value of the soil
The chart I find says Ca & Mg can only be uptaken from ph 6.5 - 9.0....
So how can I have an excess??
I would think deficiency just like the

What my mistake was.
To assume that if I Ph my water down at 6.3 for soil.( I did more like 5.8-6.3 av.)
The Ph of my soil will AUTOMATICLY have the same ph value...

So during my vege is started bringing it down gradually and it just got worse by add the ph down every time
Then also the fact that I use
30-35. % peat
This also makes the soil More acidic over time. <please correct me if I'm wrong 😛

Like you told me I gave 2 weeks water and epsom salt but could see little improvement but I did stop getting worse! So thank for the safe

6 days ago I do the following:

I tested on 1 plant this lime/chalk I had
Sprinkled on top scratched in
Made holes evenly and mixe some in my water .ph of 8.0

4 days ago:

After applying I could see positive change in the following:
1 leaves turning greener
2 Ph soil is going up from 5.0 to 5.5 almost Ph of 6. Goal = 6.5
3 plants seem tr be drinking more.
4 growth is picking up

4 days Ago :

I did the same for the other ones

2 days ago:
I started brewing a worm tea with molasses
I give it To all.of them....
It looked Delicious at Ph of 7.4 😛

Today

Going to give them some more of that tea
They look more healthy in general
I hope next week my blue lab meter will arrive so I can go more precise on my readings.
 
H.man

H.man

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But I also understand that I can do little in this stage...
I more interested in what went wrong exactly and how I can prevent it next time
 
Moshmen

Moshmen

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That is for sure interesting and news to me.

So if I have soil at 5.5 pH and mix in dolomite lime till my meters say I’m at 5.8pH, how long do I have to wait till my soil is 5.8pH or for my meters to be correct in their readings in case it changes over that period of time?
I believe we are talking about 2 different things ? Prolly my misunderstanding ? How ever you have to have a orrery dang good soil ph meter to get accurate readings like that , you could move .3 just by moving the probe imo

In the end it doesn’t matter if the lime is doing it’s job no ph needed
 
Neuro

Neuro

If you plant ice, you're gonna harvest wind.
195
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@H.man the problem is a combination of things not just one, at this point. I'll break it down.
The calcium in your nutrients is creating an excess and will cause ph to go down in the soil.
The water you are feeding with is low ph. You are in SOIL not HYDRO. I'm not saying the ph range is not correct for optimal nutrient uptake. What I was saying in the other thread is that the soil will fix itself, all the calcium put in with your nutrients, will buffer your almost neutral tap water to the correct parameters.
Calcium is a good thing, but if your grow part is 10% calcium and your bloom part is 10% calcium thats 20% Calcium in the solution you are putting in your soil every time you feed. Which is ok once every 3-4 weeks, but if you do that once or twice a week, over time you get a build up, which is why at roughly the same time in your grows you start to see the problem.

Your plants look really good and just not using ph down with your tap water, could make a huge difference if you are going to continue with that nutrient line.
Whoa. Lost me with the "calcium causes low pH". Ca is an alkali, no? Carbonic acid is extremely weak.
 
Moshmen

Moshmen

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All this talk about ph and no one has asked what kind of ec/ppm you puttin in ? And what’s the runoff ?
 
ezenzyme

ezenzyme

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For real mosh!!! To all you young'uns stop making random guesses based upon one photo!!! Tons of calcium is not the answer to your problems, clearly because the follow up photos looked even worse than the beginning. You need to get all the information and based upon the facts really get to the heart of the problem. If you just throwing guesses out there with no information its real easy to send someone down the wrong road.

Theres a thread on here titled Read me First in the Cannabis Infirmary....You should read it first...... It starts with;

Soil Growers:
1. Are you growing from seed or clones?
2. How old are your plants?
3. How tall are your plants?
4. What size containers are they planted in?
5. What is your soil mix?
6. How often do you water and what type of water do you use?
7. What is the pH of your water?
8. What kind of fertilizer do you use and what is its NPK ratio?
9. Do you foliar feed or spray your plants with anything?
10. What kind of lights do you use and how many watts combined? (HPS, MH, fluorescent, halogen, incandescent "plant lights")
11. How close are your lights to the plants?
12. What size is your grow space in square feet?
13. What is the temperature and humidity in your grow space?
14. What is the pH of the soil?
15. Have you noticed any insect activity in your grow space?
16. How much experience do you have growing?

These questions are just the start to making a proper diagnosis, sometime enough information will be gleaned from this sometimes we need more information.
 

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