Just a side note. I would not change any thing or add anything to what I am already doing here @H.man. Not till I know for sure if just using tap water that has not been ph'd fix's the original problem you created a thread about. The plant with the issues is not going to come back lush and green. Things do not work like that. You need to be looking at the other plants and see if just the water change makes the difference in what you were originally wanting to know.
"i have grown many plants AND ALWAYS AROUND THIS TIME(flower time) they start turning yellow and i think it because im not using any cal mag suplements?"
My friend you are not going to know till you grow something in fresh soil from seed and just use tap water. Every other plant that is going right now has had the soil "contaminated" by ph down and possible high calcium levels (from your nutrient line). Soil can not be completely flushed, its not coco.
In the video I see rust SPOTS on the leaves all over the plants. That is calcium excess. You also have a bad case of Mag deficiency which is why everything is turning yellow. There are plenty of nutrients in the soil and plant, which is why you could not pull that dead leaf off the plant. Simply put, if you just use tap water with added epsom salt (once a week or once every other week) and stop using your nutrient with the high calcium for a couple weeks on your other plants, that should keep them from looking like the one you originally posted about.
So its 2 weeks later of using straight tap water.
You are week 6-7 of flower?
The calcium is fine at this point and what the plant will be wanting.
You also have a high need for Potassium now and could be what is lacking.
The video from a week ago shows leaves with green veins, leading me to believe Phosphorous is good.
When was last time you added Nitrogen?
Think about it this way. You can break your flower time into two parts. Early and Late flower.
Early flower (weeks1-4) high Nitrogen and Phos demands weeks.
Late flower (weeks 5-9) high Potassium, Nitrogen tapers off as does Phosphorous.
Timing having the nutrients available is what is needed. Making them available to the plant. Usually adding the week before they are needed.
Allowing the plant to cannibalize itself at the end is not a bad thing.
A natural "flush", allowing the plant to use up everything left in the soil as opposed to washing it out with water.
I'm not completely sure about one thing you are saying?
You say the rust spots are calcium excess signs
But I had very low ph value of the soil
The chart I find says Ca & Mg can only be uptaken from ph 6.5 - 9.0....
So how can I have an excess??
I would think deficiency just like the
What my mistake was.
To assume that if I Ph my water down at 6.3 for soil.( I did more like 5.8-6.3 av.)
The Ph of my soil will AUTOMATICLY have the same ph value...
So during my vege is started bringing it down gradually and it just got worse by add the ph down every time
Then also the fact that I use
30-35. % peat
This also makes the soil More acidic over time. <please correct me if I'm wrong
Like you told me I gave 2 weeks water and epsom salt but could see little improvement but I did stop getting worse! So thank for the safe
6 days ago I do the following:
I tested on 1 plant this lime/chalk I had
Sprinkled on top scratched in
Made holes evenly and mixe some in my water .ph of 8.0
4 days ago:
After applying I could see positive change in the following:
1 leaves turning greener
2 Ph soil is going up from 5.0 to 5.5 almost Ph of 6. Goal = 6.5
3 plants seem tr be drinking more.
4 growth is picking up
4 days Ago :
I did the same for the other ones
2 days ago:
I started brewing a worm tea with molasses
I give it To all.of them....
It looked Delicious at Ph of 7.4
Today
Going to give them some more of that tea
They look more healthy in general
I hope next week my blue lab meter will arrive so I can go more precise on my readings.