H.man
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A little dolomite lime in a little water, results were ~ instant.Slurry absolutely- quick note about the Dolomite lime first it’s readily available in powder form even from Amazon - it’s slow acting ! Meaning it may be a week or two before you see any thing / I’m not recommending lime yet just throwin info your way. Also it is best used mixed in your soil before ur grow it will help stablize that ph . Final thought ph drops from any fish store or again Amazon cheap accurate and easy to use just my opinions
They go yellow at flower more than likely cuz of nitro def. If you use bloom nutes most cut back to much on the nitro try using a balance nute longerJust a side note. I would not change any thing or add anything to what I am already doing here @H.man. Not till I know for sure if just using tap water that has not been ph'd fix's the original problem you created a thread about. The plant with the issues is not going to come back lush and green. Things do not work like that. You need to be looking at the other plants and see if just the water change makes the difference in what you were originally wanting to know.
"i have grown many plants AND ALWAYS AROUND THIS TIME(flower time) they start turning yellow and i think it because im not using any cal mag suplements?"
My friend you are not going to know till you grow something in fresh soil from seed and just use tap water. Every other plant that is going right now has had the soil "contaminated" by ph down and possible high calcium levels (from your nutrient line). Soil can not be completely flushed, its not coco.
In the video I see rust SPOTS on the leaves all over the plants. That is calcium excess. You also have a bad case of Mag deficiency which is why everything is turning yellow. There are plenty of nutrients in the soil and plant, which is why you could not pull that dead leaf off the plant. Simply put, if you just use tap water with added epsom salt (once a week or once every other week) and stop using your nutrient with the high calcium for a couple weeks on your other plants, that should keep them from looking like the one you originally posted about.
You are measuring it and yeah absolutely you will see it on a meter right away - but it doesn’t work like that with the soil and water uptake it will not be an instant fix ! Lime is a long term buffer !A little dolomite lime in a little water, results were ~ instant. View attachment 1201723
View attachment 1201724
I use it all the time when making soil mixes for different plants, when mixing into soil, results just as fast so long as it’s powdered and the soil is moist or the pellets are ‘broken down’ in water. I do suggest giving it a day or two at least for the pH to stabilize a bit if making any big pH changes.
I would say the hardest part of adding it to a pot with a plant already in it, is to get it dispersed evenly throughout the pot, since it's not water soluble but still, not to difficult to do a 'good enough' job. Ideally done over the course of a few waterings.
That is for sure interesting and news to me.You are measuring it and yeah absolutely you will see it on a meter right away - but it doesn’t work like that with the soil and water uptake it will not be an instant fix ! Lime is a long term buffer !
Just a side note. I would not change any thing or add anything to what I am already doing here @H.man. Not till I know for sure if just using tap water that has not been ph'd fix's the original problem you created a thread about. The plant with the issues is not going to come back lush and green. Things do not work like that. You need to be looking at the other plants and see if just the water change makes the difference in what you were originally wanting to know.
"i have grown many plants AND ALWAYS AROUND THIS TIME(flower time) they start turning yellow and i think it because im not using any cal mag suplements?"
My friend you are not going to know till you grow something in fresh soil from seed and just use tap water. Every other plant that is going right now has had the soil "contaminated" by ph down and possible high calcium levels (from your nutrient line). Soil can not be completely flushed, its not coco.
In the video I see rust SPOTS on the leaves all over the plants. That is calcium excess. You also have a bad case of Mag deficiency which is why everything is turning yellow. There are plenty of nutrients in the soil and plant, which is why you could not pull that dead leaf off the plant. Simply put, if you just use tap water with added epsom salt (once a week or once every other week) and stop using your nutrient with the high calcium for a couple weeks on your other plants, that should keep them from looking like the one you originally posted about.
I'm not completely sure about one thing you are saying?So its 2 weeks later of using straight tap water.
You are week 6-7 of flower?
The calcium is fine at this point and what the plant will be wanting.
You also have a high need for Potassium now and could be what is lacking.
The video from a week ago shows leaves with green veins, leading me to believe Phosphorous is good.
When was last time you added Nitrogen?
Think about it this way. You can break your flower time into two parts. Early and Late flower.
Early flower (weeks1-4) high Nitrogen and Phos demands weeks.
Late flower (weeks 5-9) high Potassium, Nitrogen tapers off as does Phosphorous.
Timing having the nutrients available is what is needed. Making them available to the plant. Usually adding the week before they are needed.
Allowing the plant to cannibalize itself at the end is not a bad thing.
A natural "flush", allowing the plant to use up everything left in the soil as opposed to washing it out with water.
I believe we are talking about 2 different things ? Prolly my misunderstanding ? How ever you have to have a orrery dang good soil ph meter to get accurate readings like that , you could move .3 just by moving the probe imoThat is for sure interesting and news to me.
So if I have soil at 5.5 pH and mix in dolomite lime till my meters say I’m at 5.8pH, how long do I have to wait till my soil is 5.8pH or for my meters to be correct in their readings in case it changes over that period of time?
Whoa. Lost me with the "calcium causes low pH". Ca is an alkali, no? Carbonic acid is extremely weak.@H.man the problem is a combination of things not just one, at this point. I'll break it down.
The calcium in your nutrients is creating an excess and will cause ph to go down in the soil.
The water you are feeding with is low ph. You are in SOIL not HYDRO. I'm not saying the ph range is not correct for optimal nutrient uptake. What I was saying in the other thread is that the soil will fix itself, all the calcium put in with your nutrients, will buffer your almost neutral tap water to the correct parameters.
Calcium is a good thing, but if your grow part is 10% calcium and your bloom part is 10% calcium thats 20% Calcium in the solution you are putting in your soil every time you feed. Which is ok once every 3-4 weeks, but if you do that once or twice a week, over time you get a build up, which is why at roughly the same time in your grows you start to see the problem.
Your plants look really good and just not using ph down with your tap water, could make a huge difference if you are going to continue with that nutrient line.
you caught me....let the flames begin.Whoa. Lost me with the "calcium causes low pH". Ca is an alkali, no? Carbonic acid is extremely weak.
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