MPB vs UC - what is the definitive difference? (plannng stage)

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applepie

applepie

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Hopefully in a month or so I'll have one grow under my belt.. Hahah...LOLOLOL..

I'm a newbie whom just recently took up this really really fun garden hobby and currently in the process of planning for a new garden. I have been snooping around this site for the past few months non-stop, and have finally came up with the courage to ask for help (after having read many many experts' grow logs, *thank you all!)

Can the experts out there lend a hand in helping me to understand the differences between MPB vs. UC? So far, this is what I've gathered:

1) Huge grow containers that allow for mass root development.
2) High pressure circulating pumps
3) Vertical lighting
4) Huge AC unit(s)
5) Water Chiller
6) 55 or 60 inches between plant centers
7) Huge reservoir for top off?
8) C02 supplement (optional)?
9) 6"x6" fencing/cages of some sort
10) humid/dehumidifiers

Both of these systems warrant some of the same things, what are the real differences really?
Thank you all very much!
 
shawnskush

shawnskush

2,013
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Hopefully in a month or so I'll have one grow under my belt.. Hahah...LOLOLOL..

I'm a newbie whom just recently took up this really really fun garden hobby and currently in the process of planning for a new garden. I have been snooping around this site for the past few months non-stop, and have finally came up with the courage to ask for help (after having read many many experts' grow logs, *thank you all!)

Can the experts out there lend a hand in helping me to understand the differences between MPB vs. UC? So far, this is what I've gathered:

1) Huge grow containers that allow for mass root development.
2) High pressure circulating pumps
3) Vertical lighting
4) Huge AC unit(s)
5) Water Chiller
6) 55 or 60 inches between plant centers
7) Huge reservoir for top off?
8) C02 supplement (optional)?
9) 6"x6" fencing/cages of some sort
10) humid/dehumidifiers

Both of these systems warrant some of the same things, what are the real differences really?
Thank you all very much!

I would honestly say get a few grows under your belt before complicating things tring to run UC or DWC.
 
Texas Kid

Texas Kid

Some guy with a light
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One you can setup and operate within a few hours, plug and play....the other you'll be in for thousands of dollars, 100's of hours, and six months later ya still won't have any plants in it and if you do get plants in it get ready for a monkey fuckin a greased football...look up Rube Goldberg..

I've ran both and currently I run about 10 different UC's and no DD setups, if that tells ya anything
 
applepie

applepie

55
18
One you can setup and operate within a few hours, plug and play....the other you'll be in for thousands of dollars, 100's of hours, and six months later ya still won't have any plants in it and if you do get plants in it get ready for a monkey fuckin a greased football...look up Rube Goldberg..

I've ran both and currently I run about 10 different UC's and no DD setups, if that tells ya anything
Thank you Soldier!
 
J

Jalisco Kid

Guest
I disagree with TK if both set ups are run right. The uc sys if it pumps out a big plant lacks on flow. Sucking from the bottom of the tank and pulling from the other side from the bottom. The roots seem to clog it up. With a proper made mbs you just screw in your hoses and run. no beating in pvc into uniseals. Most mbs are underpowered due to DD's lack in design, so they can cause health problems. He needed 3x the pump.
Now my sys with multi level mutli directional with flow I believe is a much better design and with the materials used much better made. Easy to copy, butt hard to surpass. JK
 
Texas Kid

Texas Kid

Some guy with a light
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263
Thank God they don't use uniseals anymore, I felt like I was in a car wreck everytime I built one up...nothing really to disagree with, if you wanted to have plants in a system and be off to the races by this Friday, you could do it with a UC and there is no way to build a DD setup in even a months time..then you have to run the damn thing..with the UC you can pretty much pull 2.5-3.5lbs right outta the box with 2k and a blindfold on, minimal veg time and if your growin trees just stretch the veg time, add vert lights, and move plant centers to account for the larger plants
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

6,892
313
I asked this same question a couple of years ago, and did not find enough information about the mpb approach to try it. Thus, I went RDWC and never looked back.

Jalisco Kid has been running mpb systems with great success, as has Capulator. You might ask them to discuss their observations in closer detail.

FWIW, I'm pretty happy with my own RDWC, and it only uses one water pump and one air pump. A similar design I'm working on for a vertical grow system dispenses with the air pump and associated stones altogether. I did not buy a brand name unit, I built my own from 5 gallon buckets and 1" bulkhead fittings. There are net pot bucket lids that fit on these 5 gallon buckets and come in a variety of sizes. This also gives the advantage of being able to pluck your plant up by the netpot and carry it anywhere you like!
 
Capulator

Capulator

likes to smell trees.
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Just got through reading heaths tree thread at eye see and I gotta say he fuckin killed it with his RDWC. 4 lb plants with 3 600's...

The key is to have a chiller that can keep your water at around 66 degrees or less to take advantage of the higher DO levels associated with colder temps, but not so cold that it really inhibits nute uptake. Lots of water movement. upsize everything. Heath recommended a 1000L/hour pump size for each site. You need to have lots of flow, but not be blasting the roots so hard that you damage them.

From my notes:

Here's some info from Heath about D.O :


"In this you can see that at 19 deg C its about 9mg / L of DO, so not quite 1 mg for every C the temps are raised but a useful rule of thumb. this is sufficient for healthy plant growth, the optimum for nutrient temps is between 18 and 24c

As growers we are caught in a "catch 22" situation because DO is increased at low nutrient temps but the plant growth is regulated by performing countless numbers of biochemical reactions which will double for every increase of 10 degrees C degrees or on the other hand be cut in half for every reduction of 10 degrees C, so there is the dilemma...... which leads me on to some possible answers

The recirculating systems I use all rely on one simple fact and that is whenever air is in contact with the water, whether through natural or artificial means, a transfer of oxygen from the air to the water takes place at the surface which provides a good gas exchange allowing oxygen to enter the water and carbon dioxide to escape until the water becomes saturated. The speed at which oxygen from the air enters and mixes through a system depends on the amount of agitation at the water surface, the depth of the system and the rate at which it mixes itself.

When normal airstones are used most of the DO is obtained when the bubble forms and then by water movement at the surface, so most of the DO is created by water movement at the surface rather than bubbles as most people think. Another thing growers should consider is the practice of placing a large airstone underneath the roots and allowing it to bubble away furiously can cause mechanical damage to the roots and the turbulence can cause stress. Much better to have the bubbles generated in a remote rez and recirculate them through the system.

Ceramic Micro air Diffusers (CMD) are brilliant for aerating your system, if you have never seen one running you are in for a treat, when you first run one its a surprise to see what looks like milk streaming out of the diffuser! or a bit like underwater fog, with one of these you can oversaturate depending on the size of the diffuser or system but not to the point that the system is toxic. If you decide to use one of these, depending on how good the CMD is you can run them intermittently as the DO will stay in the system for about 20 mins .

I wouldn't recommend the use of CMD with oxygen as you would run the real risk of it becoming toxic but not at the levels you suggest it would have to be more than double 14mg DO / L."




"The water comes into contact with the air in the rez and also around the inner pot. If you notice all these systems have a external rez which the water flows from and back to. Whenever air is in contact with the water, whether through natural or artificial means, a transfer of oxygen from the air to the water takes place until the water becomes saturated. so it doesn't matter that the inner pot sits in the water as the water is already fully saturated with air from the rez. I hope that makes sense.


Ok just to make things as clear as mud here is a summery of whats been discussed so far.

Dissolved oxygen (DO) is one of the single most important factors in hydroponics. If DO concentrations are low plants cannot take up nutrients, they will grow slowly or not at all, and they will be susceptible to disease. where concentrations are very low, plants may die from lack of oxygen.

Wherever water is in contact with the atmosphere, oxygen from the air will enter the water until the pressure of oxygen in water and air are equal. This is known as equilibrium or saturation. The concentration of DO at saturation increases with increasing pressure and decreases with increasing water temperature.

When water contains less oxygen than the saturation concentration, oxygen from the atmosphere diffuses into the water, Oxygen will be added to a recirculating system at almost any point where the water surface is in contact with the atmosphere.


The addition of a air stone can be useful but not in the way that most growers think. If the recirculating water is at full saturation then the addition of air stones wont make any difference whatsoever, if the water is low in DO for whatever reason, then the addition of an air stone would increase DO simply by the action of moving the water and allowing more contact area at the water surface as I mentioned earlier "Wherever water is in contact with the atmosphere, oxygen from the air will enter the water until the pressure of oxygen in water and air are equal". This can also be achieved by simply placing a small submerged pump in your rez.

Good diffusers and Protein skimmers will add Do because of the small bubble size they produce, typically less than 1 millimetre (mm) in average diameter, compared to 3 to 5 mm or more for aquarium type air stones. For example, decreasing the bubble size from 2.4 mm to 0.4 mm would increase the contact area between the air and water by a factor of five. An additional benefit of small bubbles is they take much longer to rise. A good diffuser will supersaturate your water which wont directly benefit the plant as it cant use the extra DO but it might indirectly help by increasing the numbers of beneficial bacteria and reducing harmful ones.


I hope that helps clears things up because we are in danger of sending everyone who looks in to sleep


Heath"




Do a lot of reading here and wherever you can, and if you have any questions on an MPB I can help since I am probably one of the only ones left that actually runs one. LOL.

-Cap
 
Capulator

Capulator

likes to smell trees.
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@ shawnkush and Tty:

I deleted your posts that were not contributing. Please keep it civil. Shawnkush is right about RDWC for beginners. Dizzle did the same thing to me when I first started, and it was some of the best advice I ever got, since I ran both RDWC and coco at the same time because of it... It's no fun when a RDWC system shits the bed, I am sure you know that Tty.

There is nothing wrong with honesty. Let's not flame each other though. That behavior is not as good for learning as constructive criticisms and insightful opinions are.

Thank you.
 
applepie

applepie

55
18
Just got through reading heaths tree thread at eye see and I gotta say he fuckin killed it with his RDWC. 4 lb plants with 3 600's...

The key is to have a chiller that can keep your water at around 66 degrees or less to take advantage of the higher DO levels associated with colder temps, but not so cold that it really inhibits nute uptake. Lots of water movement. upsize everything. Heath recommended a 1000L/hour pump size for each site. You need to have lots of flow, but not be blasting the roots so hard that you damage them.

From my notes:

Here's some info from Heath about D.O :


"In this you can see that at 19 deg C its about 9mg / L of DO, so not quite 1 mg for every C the temps are raised but a useful rule of thumb. this is sufficient for healthy plant growth, the optimum for nutrient temps is between 18 and 24c

As growers we are caught in a "catch 22" situation because DO is increased at low nutrient temps but the plant growth is regulated by performing countless numbers of biochemical reactions which will double for every increase of 10 degrees C degrees or on the other hand be cut in half for every reduction of 10 degrees C, so there is the dilemma...... which leads me on to some possible answers

The recirculating systems I use all rely on one simple fact and that is whenever air is in contact with the water, whether through natural or artificial means, a transfer of oxygen from the air to the water takes place at the surface which provides a good gas exchange allowing oxygen to enter the water and carbon dioxide to escape until the water becomes saturated. The speed at which oxygen from the air enters and mixes through a system depends on the amount of agitation at the water surface, the depth of the system and the rate at which it mixes itself.

When normal airstones are used most of the DO is obtained when the bubble forms and then by water movement at the surface, so most of the DO is created by water movement at the surface rather than bubbles as most people think. Another thing growers should consider is the practice of placing a large airstone underneath the roots and allowing it to bubble away furiously can cause mechanical damage to the roots and the turbulence can cause stress. Much better to have the bubbles generated in a remote rez and recirculate them through the system.

Ceramic Micro air Diffusers (CMD) are brilliant for aerating your system, if you have never seen one running you are in for a treat, when you first run one its a surprise to see what looks like milk streaming out of the diffuser! or a bit like underwater fog, with one of these you can oversaturate depending on the size of the diffuser or system but not to the point that the system is toxic. If you decide to use one of these, depending on how good the CMD is you can run them intermittently as the DO will stay in the system for about 20 mins .

I wouldn't recommend the use of CMD with oxygen as you would run the real risk of it becoming toxic but not at the levels you suggest it would have to be more than double 14mg DO / L."



"The water comes into contact with the air in the rez and also around the inner pot. If you notice all these systems have a external rez which the water flows from and back to. Whenever air is in contact with the water, whether through natural or artificial means, a transfer of oxygen from the air to the water takes place until the water becomes saturated. so it doesn't matter that the inner pot sits in the water as the water is already fully saturated with air from the rez. I hope that makes sense.


Ok just to make things as clear as mud here is a summery of whats been discussed so far.

Dissolved oxygen (DO) is one of the single most important factors in hydroponics. If DO concentrations are low plants cannot take up nutrients, they will grow slowly or not at all, and they will be susceptible to disease. where concentrations are very low, plants may die from lack of oxygen.

Wherever water is in contact with the atmosphere, oxygen from the air will enter the water until the pressure of oxygen in water and air are equal. This is known as equilibrium or saturation. The concentration of DO at saturation increases with increasing pressure and decreases with increasing water temperature.

When water contains less oxygen than the saturation concentration, oxygen from the atmosphere diffuses into the water, Oxygen will be added to a recirculating system at almost any point where the water surface is in contact with the atmosphere.


The addition of a air stone can be useful but not in the way that most growers think. If the recirculating water is at full saturation then the addition of air stones wont make any difference whatsoever, if the water is low in DO for whatever reason, then the addition of an air stone would increase DO simply by the action of moving the water and allowing more contact area at the water surface as I mentioned earlier "Wherever water is in contact with the atmosphere, oxygen from the air will enter the water until the pressure of oxygen in water and air are equal". This can also be achieved by simply placing a small submerged pump in your rez.

Good diffusers and Protein skimmers will add Do because of the small bubble size they produce, typically less than 1 millimetre (mm) in average diameter, compared to 3 to 5 mm or more for aquarium type air stones. For example, decreasing the bubble size from 2.4 mm to 0.4 mm would increase the contact area between the air and water by a factor of five. An additional benefit of small bubbles is they take much longer to rise. A good diffuser will supersaturate your water which wont directly benefit the plant as it cant use the extra DO but it might indirectly help by increasing the numbers of beneficial bacteria and reducing harmful ones.


I hope that helps clears things up because we are in danger of sending everyone who looks in to sleep


Heath"



Do a lot of reading here and wherever you can, and if you have any questions on an MPB I can help since I am probably one of the only ones left that actually runs one. LOL.

-Cap


Thanks for the clarifications! I have been doing ALOT of reading and I know you are very familiar and knowledgeable with what to feed the plants in every stage grow. Can you suggest a nutrient/micro program I can follow exactly from beginning grow to end? Thanks!!!!!
 
applepie

applepie

55
18
I asked this same question a couple of years ago, and did not find enough information about the mpb approach to try it. Thus, I went RDWC and never looked back.

Jalisco Kid has been running mpb systems with great success, as has Capulator. You might ask them to discuss their observations in closer detail.

FWIW, I'm pretty happy with my own RDWC, and it only uses one water pump and one air pump. A similar design I'm working on for a vertical grow system dispenses with the air pump and associated stones altogether. I did not buy a brand name unit, I built my own from 5 gallon buckets and 1" bulkhead fittings. There are net pot bucket lids that fit on these 5 gallon buckets and come in a variety of sizes. This also gives the advantage of being able to pluck your plant up by the netpot and carry it anywhere you like!

I'm currently using the 5Gal buckets with the 1" piping also. Somehow, I find that it's nearly impossible to completely drain out the buckets during flush. Also, I'm growing a sativa dominant strain now so it's difficult if not impossible to lift up the netpot due to weight and height issue. The roots' constantly clogging up the drains. I think bigger pipping is in order the next time around.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

6,892
313
@ shawnkush and Tty:

I deleted your posts that were not contributing. Please keep it civil. Shawnkush is right about RDWC for beginners. Dizzle did the same thing to me when I first started, and it was some of the best advice I ever got, since I ran both RDWC and coco at the same time because of it... It's no fun when a RDWC system shits the bed, I am sure you know that Tty.

There is nothing wrong with honesty. Let's not flame each other though. That behavior is not as good for learning as constructive criticisms and insightful opinions are.

Thank you.

I got mad at Shawnkush for assuming he knew better than the OP about their level of skill and interest. I'm about to call you out for the same thing, Cap- it's not okay to be condescending!

As it happens, I AM that guy who started with RDWC, and it worked out. Instead of telling people what they should or should not be doing- and coming across as judgmental gate keepers at best and elitist assholes at worst- just answer the questions- and if you feel you must, mention the pitfalls of a given approach.

My posts were not disrespectful. Put them back up- and in future, DO NOT DELETE OR EDIT MY POSTS WITHOUT CHECKING WITH ME FIRST. I might actually have a valid point.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

6,892
313
I'm currently using the 5Gal buckets with the 1" piping also. Somehow, I find that it's nearly impossible to completely drain out the buckets during flush. Also, I'm growing a sativa dominant strain now so it's difficult if not impossible to lift up the netpot due to weight and height issue. The roots' constantly clogging up the drains. I think bigger pipping is in order the next time around.

I have this same issue. I reach into the 5 gallon bucket and pull the tangle of roots out of the 1" line every couple weeks. A bigger bucket would also help.
 
All4freedumb

All4freedumb

874
93
When normal airstones are used most of the DO is obtained when the bubble forms and then by water movement at the surface, so most of the DO is created by water movement at the surface rather than bubbles as most people think. Another thing growers should consider is the practice of placing a large airstone underneath the roots and allowing it to bubble away furiously can cause mechanical damage to the roots and the turbulence can cause stress. Much better to have the bubbles generated in a remote rez and recirculate them through the system.

So, using this approach would you run only a cmd in the epi and no airstones in each bucket or small airstones in each module as well? Or would using smaller cmd in each module be best. Sorry for my confusion I have been very interested in using cmd in my UC I just couldn't gather if one in each bucket is necessary or just one big girl in my epi... Thanks for the read...
 
Capulator

Capulator

likes to smell trees.
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I got mad at Shawnkush for assuming he knew better than the OP about their level of skill and interest. I'm about to call you out for the same thing, Cap- it's not okay to be condescending!

As it happens, I AM that guy who started with RDWC, and it worked out. Instead of telling people what they should or should not be doing- and coming across as judgmental gate keepers at best and elitist assholes at worst- just answer the questions- and if you feel you must, mention the pitfalls of a given approach.

My posts were not disrespectful. Put them back up- and in future, DO NOT DELETE OR EDIT MY POSTS WITHOUT CHECKING WITH ME FIRST. I might actually have a valid point.


I was not being condescending. I am sorry if it looked like that. I do not need to ask permission to delete posts that are unnecessary. The posts I deleted were exactly that, and I rarely censor anything or anyone.
Carry on.
So, using this approach would you run only a cmd in the epi and no airstones in each bucket or small airstones in each module as well? Or would using smaller cmd in each module be best. Sorry for my confusion I have been very interested in using cmd in my UC I just couldn't gather if one in each bucket is necessary or just one big girl in my epi... Thanks for the read...

What's a cmd?
 
Capulator

Capulator

likes to smell trees.
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Thanks for the clarifications! I have been doing ALOT of reading and I know you are very familiar and knowledgeable with what to feed the plants in every stage grow. Can you suggest a nutrient/micro program I can follow exactly from beginning grow to end? Thanks!!!!!


You can use many different nutrients to get good results. I have had success with CS adn jr peter, advanced, botanicare... The key is to keep it simple and only add additives after you have perfected growing with your base. There are a lot of insane growers that use no additives, no co2, no extras. They keep it simple and focus on the environment the plants are in.

If you want to save money go jr peters hydro, cal nit, and epsom salts. You need to use about 35% of the recommended full dose in an RDWC.
 
All4freedumb

All4freedumb

874
93
.

Ceramic Micro air Diffusers (CMD) are brilliant for aerating your system, if you have never seen one running you are in for a treat, when you first run one its a surprise to see what looks like milk streaming out of the diffuser! or a bit like underwater fog, with one of these you can oversaturate depending on the size of the diffuser or system but not to the point that the system is toxic. If you decide to use one of these, depending on how good the CMD is you can run them intermittently as the DO will stay in the system for about 20 mins .

I wouldn't recommend the use of CMD with oxygen as you would run the real risk of it becoming toxic but not at the levels you suggest it would have to be more than double 14mg DO / L."[/FONT][/COLOR]



-Cap


What's a cmd?

Ceramic Micro air Diffusers? Maybe I misused the abbreviation?
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

6,892
313
So, using this approach would you run only a cmd in the epi and no airstones in each bucket or small airstones in each module as well? Or would using smaller cmd in each module be best. Sorry for my confusion I have been very interested in using cmd in my UC I just couldn't gather if one in each bucket is necessary or just one big girl in my epi... Thanks for the read...

I notice a big difference in how well my girls do in my RDWC when I use airstones- and it's not the aeration. Instead, they splatter moisture up into the space beneath the netpot and encourage the roots to drop down into the water.
 
Capulator

Capulator

likes to smell trees.
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Ceramic Micro air Diffusers? Maybe I misused the abbreviation?



I use one of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALITA-Cylinder-Air-Stone-Diffuser-12-Length-1-9-Diameter-aqua-pond-hydro-/200735779976?_trksid=p3284.m263&_trkparms=algo=SIC&its=I&itu=UCI%2BIA%2BUA%2BFICS%2BUFI&otn=21&pmod=190833435001&ps=54

But alita makes an air tubing that is self cleaning that is the shit. http://www.alita.com/diffuser/siliconehose.php

Also, there are these that are supposed to work really well and consume almost no power or heat: http://www.amazon.com/rule-Tournament-Series-Aerator-Pump/dp/B00440LZJM

they are for bait tanks.
 
All4freedumb

All4freedumb

874
93
I notice a big difference in how well my girls do in my RDWC when I use airstones- and it's not the aeration. Instead, they splatter moisture up into the space beneath the netpot and encourage the roots to drop down into the water.

That is my experience as well. From what I read in that complete copy and paste of Heath from Cap, it sounded as if it was saying a good diffuser in the epi would produce enough DO for the complete system. From that read the splatter beneath the net pot is what would be creating most of the DO in each bucket? I like the idea of using a cmd I just can't bring myself to spending that money per module without feeling the benefits are really there. But if one good cmd in the epi with a 6in airstone in each bucket is all we are talking about I'm in. This last run I ditched the diffuser in my epi, speeded my pump, so the fall of water into my epi from my pump is increased and threw in a pump in the epi to agitate the water in the system. Everything went great this run. I meant to replace my stock diffuser with a cmd but never did put her in this last run. I guess I was having a hard time seeing how bubbles would be spread through the system. I was thinking my last buckets would be getting robbed. I now see its about the water being saturated and that DO levels hold in water for 20 min or so, keeping all water in the system saturated as it passes through the epi. Things make more since after that read as far as saturation of the water but I guess I don't see how one would know your water is fully saturated? I know testing DO levels is a thing of its own and not so easily obtained, so what's good enough and what's as good as we get it without testing our DO levels? How big of a cmd would you use for say 100 gal of water being moved through a system and know your DO levels are good throughout? Thanks for your time..
 
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