Multiple Issues/multiple Plants Week 5 Of Flower

[MidwestToker]

At 5 of an 8 week strain... You can damn near just water now... I would do 1 more feed after this water... All at 7... 6 is too low... 6.5 is better but you already sound low at 6-6.5

I would water at 6 if he is actually have a carbonate based problem. I grew with 400 ppm well water with almost 200 ppm of that being in the calcium carbonate form. Seen problem like his many times running my well water.

 

[Gardenholic]

I’ve got some seed junky and capulator crosses I can’t wait to pop, but I don’t dare do it until I get to the bottom of this!

 

[MidwestToker]

As my well water warms to room temp the PH will rise with the temp. So would the temp need to be stable before you try that?

yes room temp

 

[stonestacker]

You can run a booster pump with the ro unit to get it to work right. I believe @G gnome runs a booster pump.

 

[GrowGod]

Root disease, not muchbyou can do now.

 

[Gardenholic]

Trichome shot of the lower nug on mystery 2. Still a ways to go

 

[DGP]

Root disease, not muchbyou can do now.

So, if it is for sure root rot, is there any hope for the OP in flushing with H202 water to at least halt the root rot and get a little more time out of them before chopping?

It makes sense if it is a root problem that the plants natural response would be to prolong the buds at the cost of the leaves.

D

 

[PharmHand]

The purpling and necrotic spots make me think the ph is too high affecting phosphorus uptake. Why ph it so high? Isn't sunshine 4 mostly peat n perlite? The manufacturer of promix which is really similar recommends 5.5-6.5 since its peat not soil. My well is shallow and very similar, about 20-60ppm depending on season. In the summer I truck in water because the ph goes up and there's iron sediment in it. If I use the water my plants end up looking very similar. Water filters can help for some stuff like iron. It does kinda look like pythium damage too like gg said but idk, that purpling tho makes me think ph and phosphorus. Too much iron can affect phosphorus uptake too and cal. And I feel like plain water will make the situation worse since there's nothing to buffer/offset the current imbalance . I'd mix a weak balanced solution at 6ph and maybe 1.0ec 4-500ppm and heavily leach and see what comes out the bottom. I could be totally wrong tho. The best way to learn would be to try all presented options on different plants and stick w it/give it time then take notes.... but that's a lot of work haha. Good luck!

 

[GrowGod]

So, if it is for sure root rot, is there any hope for the OP in flushing with H202 water to at least halt the root rot and get a little more time out of them before chopping?

It makes sense if it is a root problem that the plants natural response would be to prolong the buds at the cost of the leaves.

D

Imo no the h202 is not going to do anything. The plants will finish up but the more leaves that die and flair up the more mold that starts to fly around.
I’ve been at war for a long time with disease viruses. The key is to grow the healthiest plants and clones possible. Physan20 will kill it in your medium but most the time if it’s in the roots it’s also up in the stem already. So you need to clone out of it using systemic fungicides if you want to save a strain.
Anyways for bloom I reccomend actinovate and regalia once a week plus good husbandry tech. Make sure your sterilizing resivours etc weekly.
His plants will push through for sure, but once the inner cola leaves yellow die the mold sets in.

 

[Gardenholic]

Imo no the h202 is not going to do anything. The plants will finish up but the more leaves that die and flair up the more mold that starts to fly around.
I’ve been at war for a long time with disease viruses. The key is to grow the healthiest plants and clones possible. Physan20 will kill it in your medium but most the time if it’s in the roots it’s also up in the stem already. So you need to clone out of it using systemic fungicides if you want to save a strain.
Anyways for bloom I reccomend actinovate and regalia once a week plus good husbandry tech. Make sure your sterilizing resivours etc weekly.
His plants will push through for sure, but once the inner cola leaves yellow die the mold sets in.

At any point that interior sugar leaves start to pull from the cola, I will be forced to take the plant. I’m most likely going with straight water from here on out, and I’m going to ride it out for as long as possible.

 

[PharmHand]

Imo no the h202 is not going to do anything. The plants will finish up but the more leaves that die and flair up the more mold that starts to fly around.
I’ve been at war for a long time with disease viruses. The key is to grow the healthiest plants and clones possible. Physan20 will kill it in your medium but most the time if it’s in the roots it’s also up in the stem already. So you need to clone out of it using systemic fungicides if you want to save a strain.
Anyways for bloom I reccomend actinovate and regalia once a week plus good husbandry tech. Make sure your sterilizing resivours etc weekly.
His plants will push through for sure, but once the inner cola leaves yellow die the mold sets in.

Do you mix the actinovate with the regalia and do it once a week or separately? Is that all you use for pm prevention? I just started using regalia sprayed twice and added some to nute solution

 

[Gardenholic]

Well, I said I wouldn’t stress too hard, but I lied. I was up at 330, waiting for the lights to come on at 430 to see how much more damage happened over night.

Yes, the damage on some of the leaves that were already affected look worse, but some of the lower leaves look healthier and unaffected. The pots are still a little too heavy to be watered so it looks like one more day of drying out before I can do anything.

 

[Gardenholic]

And the two least affected plants look great. (I think they are the same strain. They are the youngest looking with the thinnest leaves.)

 

[MidwestToker]

I really believe it's a lockout issue. Here are pics of plants affected by root pathogens.

The last 2 pics were taken a week after the first ones, as you can see it doesn't take long for root problems to kill a plant.

 

[Gardenholic]

I believe it is lockout as well. Everyone got a full 2 gallons of 20 ppm 6.5 ph water. The runoff was orange and tested between 600 and 800 ppm on all of them except for 1 that the ppm of the runoff was only 150.

I got anywhere between 1/2-3/4 gallon of runoff from each plant. I’ll take some pictures later.

 

[PharmHand]

I really believe it's a lockout issue. Here are pics of plants affected by root pathogens.View attachment 774280 View attachment 774281 View attachment 774282 View attachment 774283 View attachment 774284 View attachment 774285
The last 2 pics were taken a week after the first ones, as you can see it doesn't take long for root problems to kill a plant.

I've seen that before..... devastating. Just for future reference , do you know what caused it? Is that coco you were in? How does one confirm that's the cause? When it happened to mine it was from the basement getting flooded. Although I was never 100% that's what it was

 

[PharmHand]

I believe it is lockout as well. Everyone got a full 2 gallons of 20 ppm 6.5 ph water. The runoff was orange and tested between 600 and 800 ppm on all of them except for 1 that the ppm of the runoff was only 150.

I got anywhere between 1/2-3/4 gallon of runoff from each plant. I’ll take some pictures later.

Did the plant at 150 ppm runoff look better or worse than the ones at 6-800? That's pretty low runoff for peat based, what had you been feeding prior to all this? Ppm wise.

 

[Leew421]

Thats classic mag def. Probably lock out. If you use ph up and down stop now. In soil you don't need it. Flush with molasses and add half dose of bloom booster. Wait 3 days and flush again and then add a base line of nutes.

 

[Gardenholic]

Did the plant at 150 ppm runoff look better or worse than the ones at 6-800? That's pretty low runoff for peat based, what had you been feeding prior to all this? Ppm wise.

The runoff looked about the same, maybe slightly more pale which is weird. Last feeding was 600 ppm. 1 tbsp paleo bloom (0.3-4.0-4.0) 1/2 tsp sea green (1-0.5-4.0) and 1/2 tsp true blooms (.8-.3-.5 per gallon. That feeding was also with spring/distilled water after I first noticed a problem.

That’s when I made the rookie mistake of pounding more nutes with better quality water

 

[Gardenholic]

Thats classic mag def. Probably lock out. If you use ph up and down stop now. In soil you don't need it. Flush with molasses and add half dose of bloom booster. Wait 3 days and flush again and then add a base line of nutes.

I thought it looked like severe mg deficiency as well. I lollipopped the plants after the 3rd week of flower so I really didn’t leave a lot of options for fan leaves when things started going downhill.