My first time growing / journal (help needed)

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GNick55

GNick55

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TSD

TSD

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I've never had them on my weed thankfully (knocking on all the wood wlithin reach lol) but have dealt with them several times in the veggie garden and once on a houseplant that was a gift... ahhh the gift that keeps on giving... like herpes.
I've tried and failed to eradicate them and save the plant, but I inevitably get fed up with thier wherewithal and off the plant and send it to the burn pile.... keep in mind I try to keep it as organic as possible, so full on nuclear war probably works better. I'd probably do the same with weed, one good battle, then swift and honorable death lol... so many places to hide for those little fucks, I don't see them being eradicated from a plant in flower without you saturating your buds in something pretty heavily. They're gonna hide deep in the buds as soon as you start spraying shit. They are one of my least favorite pests, and I've dealt with A LOT of pests. Can't blame em, hell of a plant to live off of.
 
RootsRuler

RootsRuler

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Yeah this really sucks and I don’t want to toss just yet. I’ll give RootsRuler ‘s method a try and I will definitely clean everything after harvest. There’s a bonsai tree outside the tent about seven feet away that I’ve acquired recently, this might be the problem,
I’ve also read that if you turn up the humidity it will get rid of them. Wonder if this is true
NO NO NO!!! Higher temps will only speed the reproduction cycle.

One of the benefits of dropping temperature in the last few weeks of flower apart from pushing their growth is that if you have any mites in the garden, which tends to happen at the end of flower, the lower temperatures will slow down the reproductive cycle. They also don't like low humidity.
 
TSD

TSD

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I can vouch for this... anytime I have mites in the garden they are definitely on the beans too. Love me a good distraction crop lol... I have a big issue with Japanese beetles, I put up traps and catch thousands of juveniles in spring and adults all through summer. I have morning glories all around my weed fence, the beetles love them, few fly over the morning glories to get to the weed, and those ones get physically ended by yours truly... large bugs are so much easier to deal with lol.
Not sure OP has time to grow beans to save this gal though, unfortunately.
 
InsaneM

InsaneM

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I just checked, my local online sites and even Amazon here don’t carry the Azamax… bummer I could give this bean method a try for sure (if time even allows for this). I’m going to bring this plant into the bathtub, set the shower head to the mistiest setting, cover the pot and make it rain on her a few times a week. And see if that helps.

This is at week 4 of flower and getting close to harvest, I don’t want to go out and spend 100 dollars on a gram of whatever they have here. So I’m kind of screwed
 
RootsRuler

RootsRuler

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I just checked, my local online sites and even Amazon here don’t carry the Azamax… bummer I could give this bean method a try for sure (if time even allows for this). I’m going to bring this plant into the bathtub, set the shower head to the mistiest setting, cover the pot and make it rain on her a few times a week. And see if that helps.

This is at week 4 of flower and getting close to harvest, I don’t want to go out and spend 100 dollars on a gram of whatever they have here. So I’m kind of screwed
Hopefully you have a handheld sprayer in your bathtub. Misting them won't work. You'll need a decent stream of water to knock them off.

You located in the Great North?
 
InsaneM

InsaneM

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Hopefully you have a handheld sprayer in your bathtub. Misting them won't work. You'll need a decent stream of water to knock them off.

You located in the Great North?
What about the rubbing alcohol or lemon mixed with water solution? This would be the fastest way I can do anything to them. I'm in Taiwan
 
InsaneM

InsaneM

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I did come across an interesting idea just now though. I saw it on some guy's Youtube channel saying that ladybugs eat spider mites. And I know a local market where I can get some ladybugs. So I'm getting some ladybugs tomorrow and in the meantime, plugging in the fan that I forgot to add to the tent.
 
S

Stonemason7767

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If you are gona try lady bugs the younger they are the better .older ones are lazy.the mites will proubly produce faster than they can eat them.predator mites might be an option also.
 
TSD

TSD

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I would at least hose them off with plain water from a sprayer to cut the numbers if you're not going to try a spray of some kind. You can also make a spray with plain liquid soap and water, I use Dr. Bronner's liquid Castille soap if I need insecticidal soap, cause it's organic-ish... but dawn is fine... but you will have to get all the soap off after it kills some or you could clog the leaves... and obviously you don't want to smoke soap... Probably have to do it a few times, like every other day maybe... and that may not eradicate them completely but better than nothing. This will also harm or at least slow down and piss off ladybugs though I think, so do that first if you're gonna try it. I believe its 2 tablespoons per gallon, you can also add vegetable oil at 2 tbsp and a few drops of essential oils they don't like such as peppermint or rosemary... but if I was in flower, not sure I'd use any kind of oil on the buds. This is basically what lost coast plant therapy is made out of... think there's some alcohol in there too.. alcohol also kills mites, I don't know the dilution and I can't suggest it cause I've never tried it. Lot's of diy recipes to try if it's to the point of no return anyway lol. Good luck! Also don't do this under the led cause then you'll probably have the added issue of light burn.
 
BigBlonde

BigBlonde

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I fought spider mites last summer and lost the battle. I ended up destroying my plants. I also learned a lot more about them than I ever wanted to know.

These horrible little creatures can evolve and become resistant to a single eradication method. That happened to me. I used hydrogen peroxide. It worked at first and I became overconfident. Then they evolved to become super mites. (Seriously!) To combat their ability to evolve, use more than one eradication method. It's also important to kill the eggs. That's harder to do than just killing the living mites. Killing the eggs is the real problem. They're extremely resistant to all manner of adverse conditions and can remain dormant for a long time.

The mites thrive on the underside of the leaves, so spraying from the top won't do much to combat them. Water can wash them off, but you must spray it upwards. A mild detergent solution is better than plain water because the detergent kills them in addition to washing them off. The mites can also be drowned by submersing the plant for about a minute. I never figured out a way to do that with a large plant, though. Alcohol solutions are also effective and can kill the eggs. Plain water won't kill the eggs. Hydrogen peroxide won't kill the eggs. (At the moment, I can't remember if detergent solutions kill the eggs.)

One method I didn't try was predator mites. I think it may be the best method. The folks I've talked with since then say it works well. I'll try predators if I ever have a problem with spider mites again. I saw that they're available on Amazon. They can probably be purchased from garden stores, too.

I eventually moved my grow to a different room and am using a new tent. I'm not using the first room at all. The mites cannot survive without vegetation. They only consume green plants and not all types of plants. They'll die of starvation if there aren't any plants to eat after they hatch. So, my plan for the first room is to create the conditions they like and let them hatch. Conditions are best for them to hatch during the hot and dry summer months, so I won't use that room for a full year. Without any vegetation in the room, they should starve to death. I've done other cleaning in the room too, so there shouldn't be many eggs left in there, if any.

Also, the way I observed the mites was to use one of those $30 digital microscopes from Amazon. I would cut off a fan leaf and turn it upside down on a piece of white paper and put it under the scope. In video mode, I could watch them move. Sometimes I'd poke them with a pin to see what they'd do. That way I could tell if the eradication method I was using was working. I could also see how they evolved--and they did evolve.
 
InsaneM

InsaneM

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I removed quite a bit of them using paper towel on the bottom side while pushing/rubbing against the front of the leaves. Just when I thought I had an egg in my hand, it started moving. I'm going to rinse the plant from the bottom with tap water first to reduce the number, then try to get some ladybugs or predator mites to keep the population down until I harvest her.
 
TSD

TSD

2,795
263
I fought spider mites last summer and lost the battle. I ended up destroying my plants. I also learned a lot more about them than I ever wanted to know.

These horrible little creatures can evolve and become resistant to a single eradication method. That happened to me. I used hydrogen peroxide. It worked at first and I became overconfident. Then they evolved to become super mites. (Seriously!) To combat their ability to evolve, use more than one eradication method. It's also important to kill the eggs. That's harder to do than just killing the living mites. Killing the eggs is the real problem. They're extremely resistant to all manner of adverse conditions and can remain dormant for a long time.

The mites thrive on the underside of the leaves, so spraying from the top won't do much to combat them. Water can wash them off, but you must spray it upwards. A mild detergent solution is better than plain water because the detergent kills them in addition to washing them off. The mites can also be drowned by submersing the plant for about a minute. I never figured out a way to do that with a large plant, though. Alcohol solutions are also effective and can kill the eggs. Plain water won't kill the eggs. Hydrogen peroxide won't kill the eggs. (At the moment, I can't remember if detergent solutions kill the eggs.)

One method I didn't try was predator mites. I think it may be the best method. The folks I've talked with since then say it works well. I'll try predators if I ever have a problem with spider mites again. I saw that they're available on Amazon. They can probably be purchased from garden stores, too.

I eventually moved my grow to a different room and am using a new tent. I'm not using the first room at all. The mites cannot survive without vegetation. They only consume green plants and not all types of plants. They'll die of starvation if there aren't any plants to eat after they hatch. So, my plan for the first room is to create the conditions they like and let them hatch. Conditions are best for them to hatch during the hot and dry summer months, so I won't use that room for a full year. Without any vegetation in the room, they should starve to death. I've done other cleaning in the room too, so there shouldn't be many eggs left in there, if any.

Also, the way I observed the mites was to use one of those $30 digital microscopes from Amazon. I would cut off a fan leaf and turn it upside down on a piece of white paper and put it under the scope. In video mode, I could watch them move. Sometimes I'd poke them with a pin to see what they'd do. That way I could tell if the eradication method I was using was working. I could also see how they evolved--and they did evolve.
They really are one of the worst to get rid of. Fire and brimstone to them I say!! 🤣 Most pests will develop a tolerance to many treatments if you keep using the same stuff all the time unfortunately. Just what we need, super treatment resistant asshole pests. 🙄
 
GrimReffer

GrimReffer

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In my experience with mites I find the best solution is to blast them with fans drop the temps way down and crank that humidity up some. Then spray Dr zymes on your plants, the only stuff I’ll spray in flower. Predator mites work but are normally expensive and a pain to get.
 
B

BadFish_Genetics

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Can some experienced growers tell me what this strain might be?

All I can provide is I got this from a local dealer, and in the bud there are some orange trichomes. Smokes great though, seem like a sativa dominant strain.

Or is it too early?
It looks to me like a PolyHybrid strain or a mix of the 2 indica/sativas, to what degree I couldn't say without knowing the strain of course. I'd say the best course of action would be to contact t the breeder who gave e you the seeds, I'm sure he knows exactly what it is your growing!
 
InsaneM

InsaneM

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It looks to me like a PolyHybrid strain or a mix of the 2 indica/sativas, to what degree I couldn't say without knowing the strain of course. I'd say the best course of action would be to contact t the breeder who gave e you the seeds, I'm sure he knows exactly what it is your growing!
The dealer was charging me ridiculous amounts for weed, which led me to grow in the first place. This seed came from his weed, I thought it was a sativa dominant hybrid of some sort. She got pretty tall in about 2 months period, I had to switch her to flower in my 6 ft tent.

They really are one of the worst to get rid of. Fire and brimstone to them I say!! 🤣 Most pests will develop a tolerance to many treatments if you keep using the same stuff all the time unfortunately. Just what we need, super treatment resistant asshole pests. 🙄

They do suck, and for my next grow, I will know what to look for in order to prevent them from happening in the first place.
 
B

BadFish_Genetics

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Yes you can do that and it will create more roots from the buried stem as long as it's not to woody already. I atta he'd a pic below just to prove its possible and this is a strange way to me to take clones but it works and answers your question at the same time. This info comes from the book called: Marijuana Botany page 36, referred to as serpentine layering with this defenition- A branch has been bent and buried in several places, roots develop underground and shoots develop above ground. Then once rooted you can make you snips from there and separate your clones. The book was written by Robert Connel Clarke on Marijuana Botany and the propagation and breeding of distinctive cannabis. Hope it helps growmie!.
 
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strider26554

strider26554

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This plant has been growing for about six to seven weeks, weird I still couldn't tell the sex so I'm asking for some advice here. Can someone please help me identify if this is a female plant. The place where the plant is supposed to grow pistils or pollen sack is growing more sub-branches (so it seems).


Thanks in advance
Nice lookin plant , very vibrant and appears very happy, ive been growing in excess of so many years that my grey hairs have fell out, and i can usually GUESS what sex a plant is at this stage but to definitively KNOW , is beyond my pay grade. That being said usually short and bushy indicates a female leaning plant/ taller kind of spindly,less undergrowth and reaching the lights first, kind of leans toward male, but those are generalizations at best and cannot be relied upon to determine the sex of a plant. Until i see balls , i just assume they are all males, that way im pleasantly surprised when those little wispy hairs show up.
 
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