My personal opinion on UC8XL so far

[QuarterbackMo]

Some times higher aeration can make the pH rise a bit...nutes tend to be more readily available in the UC too which could necessitate running your nutes a little weeker..

Try reducing the ppm's by diluting the system with pure water.....pH swings are often associated with nutes being a little to high. IMO

Yeah but the ph swings from overnuting usually go the other way... I could see the higher airation but that's not possible because I got a stronger pump in my mom setup then the uc has for all 9 buckets.

 

[QuarterbackMo]

Also I would like to add that the ph stays stable in my top off Rez the whole time it's in there and that has an airstone it doesn't start rising until it hits the uc for some reason. The hydroton was washed off really good and I have been running ph correct fluids through it for almost a month now so any air stone or hydroton effect has been gone. Its something about the uc cuz I know what hg does in rdwc buckets and that shit is 1000% stable no matter how much the plants eat or drink its insane how stable it is. I already flushed once from veg to flower so if there was any crazy shit going on it should have left during the flush. The only difference I can spot between uc and rwdc buckets are the mag drive pump the big diffuser and the amount of light leaks that the uc has I'm wondering if I just need to wrap all the buckets and PVC maybe that will fix the hg ph problem.

 

[QuarterbackMo]

Here are a few pics I took tonight at day 5 bloom
http://i70.invalid.com/albums/i90/thafharmacist/c69b05ba.jpg
http://i70.invalid.com/albums/i90/thafharmacist/ad42980c.jpg
http://i70.invalid.com/albums/i90/thafharmacist/ecb2bab0.jpg
http://i70.invalid.com/albums/i90/thafharmacist/0724b647.jpg
http://i70.invalid.com/albums/i90/thafharmacist/27222949.jpg
http://i70.invalid.com/albums/i90/thafharmacist/a45eb36f.jpg

And some calyx action look close there's 2 thick ones coming out...
http://i70.invalid.com/albums/i90/thafharmacist/a23d1afa.jpg

 

[UCMENOW]

Plants are looking good.

Fortunately for most other growers using the UC this doesn't seem to be an issue.

BTW, all the light leaks causing pH rise?.....sounds like everybody can save money on pH up from now on and just let some light on your nutes to raise the pH??? hehehe

"Yeah but the ph swings from overnuting usually go the other way".....

Not necessarily the case, depends on the combination of inputs in the solution. Looks like you neednt worry too much as your plants seem to be doing well.

What's your nute combo and strengths?

 

[QuarterbackMo]

Plants are looking good.

Fortunately for most other growers using the UC this doesn't seem to be an issue.

BTW, all the light leaks causing pH rise?.....sounds like everybody can save money on pH up from now on and just let some light on your nutes to raise the pH??? hehehe

"Yeah but the ph swings from overnuting usually go the other way".....

Not necessarily the case, depends on the combination of inputs in the solution. Looks like you neednt worry too much as your plants seem to be doing well.

What's your nute combo and strengths?

the whole hg line + calmag at normal strength on the feeding chart and 4ml per gallon calmag plus and thats not the problem like I said earlier with the light leaks and whatnot I have used the exact nutes in rdwc same dosage and everything and it works great there is something about the uc or at least mine that's making the ph rise I was pointing out shit that was different from the proven setup @ light leaks comment my plants are doing good cuz I know how to grow if it was my first time they would be through probably by now... Maybe it's all the dishsoap I used to put it together still finding it's way out I don't know either way I got it under control and still swear by hg.... No big deal be ready for more pics soon...

 

[UCMENOW]

Most people run the nutes at 1/2-2/3 strength in the UC.....even if full strength was the ticket in their rdwc's.

For whatever reason nute efficiency is higher in the UC and necessitates lower ppm's as a result.

 

[QuarterbackMo]

End of week 1 bloom night shots
http://i70.invalid.com/albums/i90/thafharmacist/0c82aea3.jpg
http://i70.invalid.com/albums/i90/thafharmacist/b2914f11.jpg
http://i70.invalid.com/albums/i90/thafharmacist/bd508464.jpg

 

[Shady]

Looking good brah! I can't wait to flip mine as well... :flower

 

[QuarterbackMo]

Looking good brah! I can't wait to flip mine as well... :flower

Thanks they are really just doing great all the way around they are perfect all the way to the bottom, I mean like even the little tiny pieces of shit at the very bottom. The hg is absolutely amazing. I just trimmed off all the popcorn branches and a few lower leaves just to get the good airflow going on in there. I have been setting the top off rez at 5.3 and it's been doing a good job of keeping the ph in optimal ranges I'm pretty happy. Today is the start of week 2 stay tuned for more pics they should start showing their vaginas in a few more days.

 

[QuarterbackMo]

Update day 1 week 2 bloom
Well after A day at the wifeys house and lots of good in house cooter my dumb ass was too lazy to make top off buckets to fill my top of Rez and being that I knew a gallon or 2 down will make my float valve stick to the diffuser I lifted my lid to check the float valve I noticed the water was trickling out of the chiller outlet instead of flowing I hope my chiller ain't broke.

Anyhow I started lifting plant lids to see which one clogged the PVC cuz I know it's not hydroton and sure enough the big one at the end by the return's roots grew so long they grew right into the inline filter and clogged the hole and most of the elbow on that side. I have been opening and closing the shutoff valve to chop the roots up that got stuck for like an hour now. I also cut the extra long roots with the PVC pipe edge so it will hopefully take a second before it happens again. My new suggestion for the uc is to put screens around the PVC openings or your gonna be in trouble. I dont know if it was the roots excel or what but that's redicilous. I really hope my chiller is not broke good thing my hydro store has a good return policy.

 

[Shady]

Update day 1 week 2 bloom
Well after A day at the wifeys house and lots of good in house cooter my dumb ass was too lazy to make top off buckets to fill my top of Rez and being that I knew a gallon or 2 down will make my float valve stick to the diffuser I lifted my lid to check the float valve I noticed the water was trickling out of the chiller outlet instead of flowing I hope my chiller ain't broke.

Anyhow I started lifting plant lids to see which one clogged the PVC cuz I know it's not hydroton and sure enough the big one at the end by the return's roots grew so long they grew right into the inline filter and clogged the hole and most of the elbow on that side. I have been opening and closing the shutoff valve to chop the roots up that got stuck for like an hour now. I also cut the extra long roots with the PVC pipe edge so it will hopefully take a second before it happens again. My new suggestion for the uc is to put screens around the PVC openings or your gonna be in trouble. I dont know if it was the roots excel or what but that's redicilous. I really hope my chiller is not broke good thing my hydro store has a good return policy.

Whaddup bud... Sorry to hear about the clogged inline filter. I've been concerned since I heard about motherlode's clog at the return pump. I just got an inline filter from Current Culture and will install it once I flush the system for the flip to bloom nutes.

Do you mind posting some photos of the inline filter connection to the return ball manifold? I want to make sure I install mine properly.

Also I was curious about the correct use of the filter cap connection on top, as well as how to clean the filter... Specifically is the cap made for a drain line connection, and is the metal filter removable from the housing?

I was also thinking about hard plumbing 3/4" Schedule 40 PVC to replace the flexible tubing from the return pump and chiller... First I have to figure out the proper PVC glue or epoxy that everyone uses... :thinking

 

[Lost]

Check your roots now. If you have slime, it will cause the PH to go up. Check roots, take pics if you can. I bet you find something there...

 

[Lost]

Whaddup bud... Sorry to hear about the clogged inline filter. I've been concerned since I heard about motherlode's clog at the return pump. I just got an inline filter from Current Culture and will install it once I flush the system for the flip to bloom nutes.

Do you mind posting some photos of the inline filter connection to the return ball manifold? I want to make sure I install mine properly.

Also I was curious about the correct use of the filter cap connection on top, as well as how to clean the filter... Specifically is the cap made for a drain line connection, and is the metal filter removable from the housing?

I was also thinking about hard plumbing 3/4" Schedule 40 PVC to replace the flexible tubing from the return pump and chiller... First I have to figure out the proper PVC glue or epoxy that everyone uses... :thinking

You should not need to use glue.. Lol! I did here and you can see its the hot glue but to do it again, I would not use glue and check for leaks...

 

[Bobby Smith]

I was also thinking about hard plumbing 3/4" Schedule 40 PVC to replace the flexible tubing from the return pump and chiller... First I have to figure out the proper PVC glue or epoxy that everyone uses... :thinking

Lol, if there's one thing I'm an expert at these days, it's PVC - just use the primer/cement combo that you can get from Lowes/Home Depot.........even if it's just for a couple/few runs, makes sense to prime/cement it for the safety/security of no leaks.

1/2" or 3/4" PVC is so cheap that you could throw it away when/if you switch locations and build another one - you could build two for less than $5 and in less than five minutes.

If you need any 3" or 4" PVC fittings, gimme a holler..........I've got wyes, waste tees, 22.5s, and 45s free to a good home.

 

[RMCG]

And use UNIONS where you need to break stuff apart.

 

[QuarterbackMo]

Whaddup bud... Sorry to hear about the clogged inline filter. I've been concerned since I heard about motherlode's clog at the return pump. I just got an inline filter from Current Culture and will install it once I flush the system for the flip to bloom nutes.

Do you mind posting some photos of the inline filter connection to the return ball manifold? I want to make sure I install mine properly.

Also I was curious about the correct use of the filter cap connection on top, as well as how to clean the filter... Specifically is the cap made for a drain line connection, and is the metal filter removable from the housing?

I was also thinking about hard plumbing 3/4" Schedule 40 PVC to replace the flexible tubing from the return pump and chiller... First I have to figure out the proper PVC glue or epoxy that everyone uses... :thinking

Yeah I got you on the pics and the PVC primer and glue is super cheap at home depot or anywhere that sells PVC pipes I'm thinking of doing the same to my return line it only makes sense. I want every thing to be threaded like gas lines though that's the only difference that way you can pull it all apart easy on the cleaning tip.

 

[KCD]

might be easier to toss it and make a new one than to try to clean it. Mainly, though, it may be cleaner. How do you really clean the inside of a small plastic pipe?
Anyway, its fun watching this thread. I'm buying equipment for my uc system.

 

[UCMENOW]

Lost is that your system?

 

[Shady]

Thx for all the great advice and ideas fellas! I was gonna be lazy and try this on my next round, but may install hardlines when I flush the system and install the inline filter... :thinking

 

[QuarterbackMo]

Whaddup bud... Sorry to hear about the clogged inline filter. I've been concerned since I heard about motherlode's clog at the return pump. I just got an inline filter from Current Culture and will install it once I flush the system for the flip to bloom nutes.

Do you mind posting some photos of the inline filter connection to the return ball manifold? I want to make sure I install mine properly.

Also I was curious about the correct use of the filter cap connection on top, as well as how to clean the filter... Specifically is the cap made for a drain line connection, and is the metal filter removable from the housing?

I was also thinking about hard plumbing 3/4" Schedule 40 PVC to replace the flexible tubing from the return pump and chiller... First I have to figure out the proper PVC glue or epoxy that everyone uses... :thinking

here you go buddy I didn't forget about you
http://i70.invalid.com/albums/i90/thafharmacist/dde5ca56.jpg