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My Problem Child

Medusa Nov 28, 2014 141 Replies 12,215 Views
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Dunge

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#41
Medusa said:
Trying to rule out over pollination as the factor.
Click to expand...
I that a thing?
 
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suomynona

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#42
Tnelz said:
The aloe has the same compounds the aspirin has. Some acid that I can't spell. Not dissing the aspirin but it brings far less to the table than aloe. U will get it my lady! Of that I have no doubt.
Click to expand...

Salicylic acid is the name.

Aloe does have it as well as :

Active components with its properties: Aloe vera contains 75 potentially active constituents: vitamins, enzymes, minerals, sugars, lignin, saponins, salicylic acids and amino acids.4–6

  1. Vitamins: It contains vitamins A (beta-carotene), C and E, which are antioxidants. It also contains vitamin B12, folic acid, and choline. Antioxidant neutralizes free radicals.
  2. Enzymes: It contains 8 enzymes: aliiase, alkaline phosphatase, amylase, bradykinase, carboxypeptidase, catalase, cellulase, lipase, and peroxidase. Bradykinase helps to reduce excessive inflammation when applied to the skin topically, while others help in the breakdown of sugars and fats.
  3. Minerals: It provides calcium, chromium, copper, selenium, magnesium, manganese, potassium, sodium and zinc. They are essential for the proper functioning of various enzyme systems in different metabolic pathways and few are antioxidants.
  4. Sugars: It provides monosaccharides (glucose and fructose) and polysaccharides: (glucomannans/polymannose). These are derived from the mucilage layer of the plant and are known as mucopolysaccharides. The most prominent monosaccharide is mannose-6-phosphate, and the most common polysaccharides are called glucomannans [beta-(1,4)-acetylated mannan]. Acemannan, a prominent glucomannan has also been found. Recently, a glycoprotein with antiallergic properties, called alprogen and novel anti-inflammatory compound, C-glucosyl chromone, has been isolated from Aloe vera gel.7,8
  5. Anthraquinones: It provides 12 anthraquinones, which are phenolic compounds traditionally known as laxatives. Aloin and emodin act as analgesics, antibacterials and antivirals.
  6. Fatty acids: It provides 4 plant steroids; cholesterol, campesterol, β-sisosterol and lupeol. All these have anti-inflammatory action and lupeol also possesses antiseptic and analgesic properties.
  7. Hormones: Auxins and gibberellins that help in wound healing and have anti-inflammatory action.
  8. Others: It provides 20 of the 22 human required amino acidsand 7 of the 8 essential amino acids. It also contains salicylic acid that possesses anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. Lignin, an inert substance, when included in topical preparations, enhances penetrative effect of the other ingredients into the skin. Saponins that are the soapy substances form about 3% of the gel and have cleansing and antiseptic properties.

Reference: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2763764/
 
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Tnelz

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#43
suomynona said:
Salicylic acid is the name.

Aloe does have it as well as :

Active components with its properties: Aloe vera contains 75 potentially active constituents: vitamins, enzymes, minerals, sugars, lignin, saponins, salicylic acids and amino acids.4–6

  1. Vitamins: It contains vitamins A (beta-carotene), C and E, which are antioxidants. It also contains vitamin B12, folic acid, and choline. Antioxidant neutralizes free radicals.
  2. Enzymes: It contains 8 enzymes: aliiase, alkaline phosphatase, amylase, bradykinase, carboxypeptidase, catalase, cellulase, lipase, and peroxidase. Bradykinase helps to reduce excessive inflammation when applied to the skin topically, while others help in the breakdown of sugars and fats.
  3. Minerals: It provides calcium, chromium, copper, selenium, magnesium, manganese, potassium, sodium and zinc. They are essential for the proper functioning of various enzyme systems in different metabolic pathways and few are antioxidants.
  4. Sugars: It provides monosaccharides (glucose and fructose) and polysaccharides: (glucomannans/polymannose). These are derived from the mucilage layer of the plant and are known as mucopolysaccharides. The most prominent monosaccharide is mannose-6-phosphate, and the most common polysaccharides are called glucomannans [beta-(1,4)-acetylated mannan]. Acemannan, a prominent glucomannan has also been found. Recently, a glycoprotein with antiallergic properties, called alprogen and novel anti-inflammatory compound, C-glucosyl chromone, has been isolated from Aloe vera gel.7,8
  5. Anthraquinones: It provides 12 anthraquinones, which are phenolic compounds traditionally known as laxatives. Aloin and emodin act as analgesics, antibacterials and antivirals.
  6. Fatty acids: It provides 4 plant steroids; cholesterol, campesterol, β-sisosterol and lupeol. All these have anti-inflammatory action and lupeol also possesses antiseptic and analgesic properties.
  7. Hormones: Auxins and gibberellins that help in wound healing and have anti-inflammatory action.
  8. Others: It provides 20 of the 22 human required amino acidsand 7 of the 8 essential amino acids. It also contains salicylic acid that possesses anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. Lignin, an inert substance, when included in topical preparations, enhances penetrative effect of the other ingredients into the skin. Saponins that are the soapy substances form about 3% of the gel and have cleansing and antiseptic properties.

Reference: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2763764/
Click to expand...
Great post! I've only been using aloe and coconut water over the past month or so. Results r like nothing I've ever added. Almost immediate. Never had a problem with clones but they r rooting faster and stronger than ever. Veg plants are noticeably more healthy and seeds r sprouting faster with more vigor than anything else I've ever used. Amazed by what these two natural products bring to the table!
 
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Calixylon

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#44
Those shells do look thick, maybe just the magnification, but it looks like a healthy seed coat
 
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Calixylon

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#45
How much coconut water do you use to pop them with? Pure coco water or do you dilute it at all? Sounds like a good idea
 
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Tnelz

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#46
Calixylon said:
How much coconut water do you use to pop them with? Pure coco water or do you dilute it at all? Sounds like a good idea
Click to expand...
So I go with what @Andy Genesis says. 40 Mls coconut water and 1/4 cup of aloe. Been using 40mls of each usually and it's just amazing. So that's where u would start into a gallon of water.
 
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Medusa

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#47
Dunge said:
I that a thing?
Click to expand...


Yes its possible to over pollinate and you will get to many pale seeds... ..but i had very few...
 
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Medusa

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#48
 
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Tnelz

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#49
Medusa said:
View attachment 462511
Click to expand...
I see some healthy tortoise shell stripped beans. Good job!
 
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Canalchemist

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#50
Some old hemp strains were stratified naturally when farmers left some plants and they went feral. Birds would feed on the seeds in the winter time. Perhaps Stratifiying them would be a good idea, never know sometimes what genetic expressions are in the closet, perhaps some old school hemp genes in there.
 
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Medusa

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#51
Canalchemist said:
Some old hemp strains were stratified naturally when farmers left some plants and they went feral. Birds would feed on the seeds in the winter time. Perhaps Stratifiing them would be a good idea, never know sometimes what genetic expressions are in the closet, perhaps some old school hemp genes in there.
Click to expand...


Interesting are you talking the hot water method ? sounds like if they all ready sunk to the bottom of the glass they are softening ?
 
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suomynona

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#52
Medusa said:
Yes its possible to over pollinate and you will get to many pale seeds... ..but i had very few...
Click to expand...
Where did you get this info from m? The only legit reference i am able to find regarding over pollination being a problem in ag is almonds and bees.

Reference:

just curious if the over pollination info is legit. Even in hemp crops raised for seeds, finola is one variety for instance, there is nothing on record that i have read about the farmers having to keep too much pollen away from the garden.

on another note, I have some seeds hand harvested from the hindu kush mountain area in pakistan in 1986 that i have not been able to get to pop and grow yet and im down to my last few hundred. I should get you some to try if i didnt already.
 
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Canalchemist

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#53
Stratification as in simulated winter, I read some seed storage and viability studies a while back and they found that most seeds were most viable when being stored in low moisture low heat environment, which would be similar to being buried most of the time, for the exception of wet areas. Some trees that I have started from seed require the stratification process in order to germinate. What I would do, because it is possible that stratifying your seeds may encourage germination is separate your seeds into equal groups of 10 to 20, make sure they are dry, put half in the fridge and half in the freezer. Every two weeks remove a group from the fridge and freezer, attempt a germination, record results. Do this until all the seeds have been germinated. Your results should show what method provided the highest germ survival and viability, as well as a good baseline as to how stratification can increase your germination rate over a period of time.

The studies I read actually showed that germination rates were higher after a month in the cold conditions than they were when they were freshly harvested and dried.

I wish I could quote the study but it was merely commited to memory, if I find it I shall post a link.
 
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Canalchemist

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#54
suomynona said:
Where did you get this info from m? The only legit reference i am able to find regarding over pollination being a problem in ag is almonds and bees.

Reference:

just curious if the over pollination info is legit. Even in hemp crops raised for seeds, finola is one variety for instance, there is nothing on record that i have read about the farmers having to keep too much pollen away from the garden.

on another note, I have some seeds hand harvested from the hindu kush mountain area in pakistan in 1986 that i have not been able to get to pop and grow yet and im down to my last few hundred. I should get you some to try if i didnt already.
Click to expand...

When people refer to over pollination I think they negate the possibility that the plant is suffering deficiencies already and cannot support a full crop of seed. it should be understood that anything plant that is not optimised will not produce an optimal crop. It is suggested a pollinated plant be grown in its most natural conditions maintaining relative amounts of nutrients that would support seed production. If a farmer feeds a pollinated plant as he would a flowering plant for bud production the farmer will find the seeds to be of a lesser quantity and quality. It should also be mentioned Zinc is important in the formation of strong viable seeds.
 
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Medusa

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#55
suomynona said:
Where did you get this info from m? The only legit reference i am able to find regarding over pollination being a problem in ag is almonds and bees.

Reference:

just curious if the over pollination info is legit. Even in hemp crops raised for seeds, finola is one variety for instance, there is nothing on record that i have read about the farmers having to keep too much pollen away from the garden.

on another note, I have some seeds hand harvested from the hindu kush mountain area in pakistan in 1986 that i have not been able to get to pop and grow yet and im down to my last few hundred. I should get you some to try if i didnt already.
Click to expand...


Would love to going to build one of those mason jars. A few months back. Was showing my male growing machine. It had three large plants in it. Ww. Stafighter. Both females. And the Dojo male. Jaws and Loompa. Were talking to me and jaws suggested over pollination would create pale seeds in his experience. I was open pollination . That's why the question of it causing the other. First time I had used open pollination Always painted on. I will find there quotes or conversations was truly something to document. Considering two great minds helping me. Plus your pops will. Be sent this week M
 
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Canalchemist

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#56
I should clarify, a plant grown outside with unlimited root space and under the sun should have everything it needs. Indoors a large plant that occupies a small container could still have all the nutrients it needs, however if the root system is to small approaching flowering it may not support the entire pollinated plant. That being said it is better to have a smaller plant in a larger pot to support seed production. That way the rhizosphere lacks for nothing, and with a smaller plant light penetration should be better.
 
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Medusa

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#57
I will note I do not feed my polinated plants s high dosage. Simply because of them being located up at house and not where all my nutrients are.
 
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Medusa

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#58
Found are conversation its in my Loompa grow....
Medusa said:
@loompa do you run your males the same after pollinated as your females? Meaning fertilizer, flushing etc? Thank you M and after pollinated how long do u wait for seeds? Have just started playing with genetics and I mean playing !
Click to expand...

loompa said:
Well after you use the male, whether your shaking it on your crop or letting pollen fall to the floor and collect it off some surface, but once your done getting its pollen, I just kill it, Because I have back up male clones in the wings. If it was my only male I would re-veg it if I planned on using it more. But that is also how I lost my OTM dad. I just kept re-vegging him and on about the 4th or 5th times, he just never came out of flower and eventually died off.

As far as seed maturity goes, thats everywhere from 4-6 weeks roughly depending onhow long over a period of time were you exposing it to male pollen, how much male pollen you use and how seeded are the plants. That will slow them down a little bit. Not much to it really. Mother Nature pretty much takes care of things. And also keep them on a decent fertilizer regiment, you dont want them sucking for food when they are developing seeds.
Click to expand...

loompa said:
Actually I meant the opposite. The more seeded those coloas are or the whole plant is for that matter, the longer and smaller the seeds seem to be. Not that Ive noticed any differences in seed size being a contributing factor to identifying select plants. But the more the plant is seeded the more work it has to do to mature all those beans. I run my females after they have been seeded with a medium fertilizer regiment, and no need to boost the Phos like you would if your growing sensimillia. Definately keep the N and K in the regiment and don't cut them out.

So yes, you can overload a plant with male pollen and what I generally see is alot more white seeds that dont mature properly along with the majority of what the plant is producing. But ultimately in the end, it doesnt really matter Medusa, this is all just the small stuff when it comes to breeding. Seeds are going to come no matter what. Its the selection process that is the key to it all. And feel free to pick my brain anytime Medusa :)
Click to expand...

Medusa said:
So maybe I should of painted the pollin on instead of letting the male hang out? Well this will be interesting to see how they come out ... Yes and the selection am excited about seeing in the challenge and learning from a master !! Thanks for the knowledge Boss :):cool:
Click to expand...
 
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Medusa

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#59
JAWS said:
yes indeed OVER POLLINATION is a real issue that some don't believe but its very true, the over pollination of a plant does EXACTLY what loompa has stated you get much more in mature seeds because of the overwhelming over pollination and that plant just can not maintain enough energy to produce fully mature seeds. what you end up with in most cases is lots of white soft in mature seeds and also odd shaped ones as well due to lack of food. i think it's also possible to slightly herm a normally solid plant do to the extra stress the female plant is going through just trying to mature out an overwhelming number of seeds.

i like to do a double dusting and that's it, i like to hit my girls between 18-21 days flower and then again around day 28 usually on a 70 day finisher.

the hit at 18-21 insure me that i get some seeds at harvest time the second dusting around the 28 mark insure me that i get a decent number of seeds per plant, been doing it this way for years with good results. i don't do to much branch dusting any more i have move to just doing whole plants with a branch dusting on thing's i want to look at in the future. also on a single branch dusting i try to hit it with a mid dash of pollen not an overly heavy dusting, i want great quality seeds from a single branch dusting aposed to trying to get a bunch of seeds from a single branch.



much respect:writing:
Click to expand...

Medusa said:
@JAWS Man sounds like I am going to have a bunch of little rice seeds. Because they were covered. This subject has not been covered here ! Just goes to show the knowledge I learn everyday and everyone else for that matter. Will show pics of what I get. Do u spray them with water after ? This is the first time have done it this way didn't want to pollinate my flower room and move them back in. Thanks Master Sharky. And Johnny Aka Loompa. M
Click to expand...

JAWS said:
i have lights on in the day lights off at night so when breeding time comes i pull the girls out take them to the bath room and begin the dusting process, ones there all dusted and placed into the tub the thats its for the rest of the day. later on before there sleep time comes ill go in and shake the piss out of them but GENTLY while spraying them with a mist, after that i just turn the lights off and wait for morning. next morning they another shake and spray and spent the whole day in the tube, that night like an hour before lights out i'll usually spray/shake one more time then place back into the flower closet.

i once believed that water and light was a pollen killer and it is to some degree but after all these years of making seeds i don't really buy into that any more, mainly because of my own success with breeding and always having my plants dusted in the light of day and still getting great result. also the thing about water being a killer i don't think that's a given ether unless you spray while dusting and i don't think any one will be doing that ever.

from what iv'e learned the breed is pretty instant ones the pollen hits the hair's its a done deal, i'm not a master nor even a pro but iv'e made 1000's of seeds and a couple hundred pieces over the 11-12 years iv'e been making seeds. its very addictive so make sure your ready for addiction your about to get into!!!.


much respect:writing:
Click to expand...

JAWS said:
iv'e had my share of over pollination over the years, i'm pretty sure that why i started doing the double dusting instead of just one very heavy one. like i was saying earlier the first one around 18-21 days insures i get some seeds so even if i do over pollinate with the second dusting i should still have some really nice MATURE seeds right down next to the stalk's. they may take a bit more digging to get them but it will be worth it for-sure.



peace;)
Click to expand...

Medusa said:
:eek:
@JAWS Already got the bug buddy ! Along way off from ever being close to called a breeder thou and I know that ! but thats how u learn is by your mistakes and success .. plus getting to join in this challenge and learn what to look for PRICELESS.. Thank you very much but I am concerned Sharky your unable to take a bath if your always pollinating in your bathtub !!!! hehehehLOL God I love this guy!!
Click to expand...
 
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Canalchemist

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#60
Thanks for the post Medusa.
 
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