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My Problem Child

  • Thread starter Thread starter Medusa
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My Problem Child

Medusa 141 Replies 12,215 Views
Page 4 of 8 · Replies 61–80 of 142
#61
Enjoy this its not often we get 2 masters talking out in the forums I certainly learned alot...and Jaws has 2 bathrooms so he can take a shower if your concerned ....:cool:
 
#62
Oom pah pah said:
I dont think its over pollination. I imagine you had to fertilize heavily with a big pay load. most likely just thick shells. They dont need to age or dry or freeze to be viable. I have seen plenty of volunteers pop straight out of a fresh bud . If it were me id just let em soak and change the water if it get stagnant. They will crack eventually.
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Check water tension by looking at how thick the meniscus on the side of container youre soaking them in. If its thick, then on a micro level all the water molecules and holdin on to each other. So this prevents them from slipping in the seed as fast. Lower water tension and a 12-18 hour soak should wake the embryo. Drying helps this process but you should be able to pop fresh seed. Ive NEVER had a prob an habitually pop very fresh seeds. Like 2 weeks off the plant. They pop. A light scuff can help(speed up water intake of the embryo), but it is certainly not necessary. One drop(or less, rub a toothpick in the top and dip and swirl) of dawn or vinegar or a drop of phosphoric acid in the cup your soaking in will help water flood those tight lil cracks in a well protected(hard shell) bean. Then i paper towel (damp)them in a ziplock bag and give 'em warmth. Then set the bag/s on a heat mat(wih thermostat of course). Pop in like 30 hours. Works for me.
 
#63
Medusa said:
Yes its possible to over pollinate and you will get to many pale seeds... ..but i had very few...
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I always thought this happened because it was polinated too late, not because i pollinated too many flower sites... Interesting. i guess if the girl is spreading out her efforts so much somethings(beans) dont get finished. I wonder if delaying harvest would result in more or 100% viableability (no empty white or pale seeds)
 
#64
You can run the plant more than a few weeks after the suggested harvest date, you will have to deal with seeds falling from the plant on there own. You can also harvest the top portion of the plant and leave the lower portion to mature longer with the light intensity the canopy was receiving. There are many people who would run a 6 week plant 10 weeks for seed production.
 
#65
I'm keeping one branch on a stump myself right now... these last few seeded things are holding up my next run.

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#66
Made the mason jar Will be putting to use today. Going to try the aloe in it first. Plus have had seeds sitting out. Again. Will be re pollinating this cross. To see if my match making creates the same thing.
 
#67
Canalchemist said:
You can run the plant more than a few weeks after the suggested harvest date, you will have to deal with seeds falling from the plant on there own. You can also harvest the top portion of the plant and leave the lower portion to mature longer with the light intensity the canopy was receiving. There are many people who would run a 6 week plant 10 weeks for seed production.
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When I went to bed last night something bothered me, it was the fact I said 6 week plant in the above post, I do this all the time for whatever reason, I meant to say 60 day plant for ten weeks. Starting to show my age I suppose.
 
#69
I didn't read every comment but have you tried soaking in a little H2O2 diluted with water? I do this after abrading the shell with sandpaper. When occaisionally that doesn't work I use an exacto knife and score or cut the bran, deeply but carefully to not damage the endosperm.
 
#70
Herb Forester said:
I didn't read every comment but have you tried soaking in a little H2O2 diluted with water? I do this after abrading the shell with sandpaper. When occaisionally that doesn't work I use an exacto knife and score or cut the bran, deeply but carefully to not damage the endosperm.
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Been 3 days in 1% bleach and water ..nada ....of course I use a fingernail file ...plain water a week twice ..nada.....getting ready to start up the mason jar w / aloe ... have them laying out now ... Thank you appreciate all ideas ...M
 
#71
Oom pah pah said:
I dont think its over pollination. I imagine you had to fertilize heavily with a big pay load. most likely just thick shells. They dont need to age or dry or freeze to be viable. I have seen plenty of volunteers pop straight out of a fresh bud . If it were me id just let em soak and change the water if it get stagnant. They will crack eventually.
Click to expand...
Same here! My first time trying to breed, didn't like how the bud came out, didn't clean it of seeds well enough, tried to water cure the bud and, yeah, I got water cured bud, but I also got a shit ton of sprouts.

What is over pollination? I've never heard of it.

lollipopman said:
Good info. So after harvesting them put in dark place for about 6 weeks then fridge. What about using rice mixed in with the seeds?
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I personally recommend against it, as I've had the rice scuff the hulls off the seeds. I prefer something like those desiccation packs.
 
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#77
I don't want to intrude, but I suppose there's a couple "tricks" I've had to do over the years at times and maybe they could help here too. I have had a couple cases where a seed (scuffed, soaked etc) did not sprout after 3-4 days and was ready to give up. However, by placing a bit of pressure on the seed halves; I was able to "crack" the seed (again after 3 days of soaking) and from there it would grow fine. I cannot say why those couple did that as they were soaked and scuffed....and sank; but there is no way they would've opened without my help.
One other thing I've done, though typically after they show a tip; is a sort of "steam" method. Where I put them in the moist paper towel and inside a sandwich bag. I leave a pocket of air in the bag when sealed and then set it out where it can get good sun. The greenhouse effect will heat the air inside and you will get condensation (fog) on the inside. Warming sprouts up this way can accelerate cell division and biological activity, provided you don't lower the waters' DO capacity relative to temp. Also I guess this would be a natural way to create "penetrating moisture" that can further help soften seeds or access the sprout easier. So, I just do a short period until they fog and maybe hit mid 90's (air temp) inside the bag; then put back into "normal" temps.

I guess with storage; I've always just allowed the plant to dry with the seeds in them. Then I remove and store in the fridge (not freezer). I don't sprout that many for sure, but I've never had a fail. I suppose the oldest I've tried from this system is 3 years though.

Sorry to butt in. Just a couple things that have helped me with oddities in the past. I'm sure these things are probably considered wrong and that I'm the only one who would do it :D
 
#78
MGRox said:
I don't want to intrude, but I suppose there's a couple "tricks" I've had to do over the years at times and maybe they could help here too. I have had a couple cases where a seed (scuffed, soaked etc) did not sprout after 3-4 days and was ready to give up. However, by placing a bit of pressure on the seed halves; I was able to "crack" the seed (again after 3 days of soaking) and from there it would grow fine. I cannot say why those couple did that as they were soaked and scuffed....and sank; but there is no way they would've opened without my help.
One other thing I've done, though typically after they show a tip; is a sort of "steam" method. Where I put them in the moist paper towel and inside a sandwich bag. I leave a pocket of air in the bag when sealed and then set it out where it can get good sun. The greenhouse effect will heat the air inside and you will get condensation (fog) on the inside. Warming sprouts up this way can accelerate cell division and biological activity, provided you don't lower the waters' DO capacity relative to temp. Also I guess this would be a natural way to create "penetrating moisture" that can further help soften seeds or access the sprout easier. So, I just do a short period until they fog and maybe hit mid 90's (air temp) inside the bag; then put back into "normal" temps.

I guess with storage; I've always just allowed the plant to dry with the seeds in them. Then I remove and store in the fridge (not freezer). I don't sprout that many for sure, but I've never had a fail. I suppose the oldest I've tried from this system is 3 years though.

Sorry to butt in. Just a couple things that have helped me with oddities in the past. I'm sure these things are probably considered wrong and that I'm the only one who would do it :D
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You're not butting in ..Is the reason I posted out in open forum so we all learn...I know some people would never want anyone to know they don't know what to do ..and pretend they know everything...but I believe in sharing my ups and downs so others may learn along with me ... Thanks it makes plenty sense .M
 
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